UrbanPanzer
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Everything posted by UrbanPanzer
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A used one in the UK is not that bad, like below..........def cheaper than 250 Euro even with shipping out to you. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274856141347
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check the battery condition / age / charge and also ensure the charging system is working as per normal.
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So, with this "heat" making it work, is it possible there is a dry / cracked joint in the BCM and the heat expands it and makes the connection.............hence everything works ? You are possibly at the point now in my opinion when you have to "try" another BCM, either new or good used, NOTE you would have to "copy" the settings of the old BCM to the new one, to do this you need VCDS or similar...............however "if" you can get a BCM from a car of the same spec and age, it would potentially be a straight swap to atleast see "if" thats the issue
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ermmmmmmmm did you not look / read what I put above ??????? you need to replace the plug, if your asking how to best do this then I would suggest the best way is to buy the link below and then cut and splice back into the vehicle loom taking note of wires to which pin numbers, (colours will vary on replacements ), but as long as the PINS match how it is now it will be fine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323530677224 If you don't know how to splice back into the loom, then I would suggest buy the plug and tails and call an auto electrician or take it to the garage you mentioned above. If you are in or near Derbyshire, bring to me with the new part and I'll do it for free,
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Ok, so next port of call for me is to check the door loom between the drivers door and the A pillar has no broken wires ( in the rubber bellows) This a common break point on the Fabia 2 and although you have what I would call "excess" symptoms, they are all related to potentially when the car is "woke up" which is when the BCM "should" get both a remote unlock and "wake up "signal, it's "possible" that one or more broken wires is causing spurious messages / short to grounds or both, who knows how that BCM is wired on the inside, the clicking relay and flashing light points to something either failing in the BCM OR it's getting mixed messages..............overall DEF worth a look at the door loom in my opinion, if not to just rule it out.
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First check would be the battery terminals are clean and tight. Second would be worth a quick continuity check of the main fuse links connected on top of the battery If both of those are good........ then it sounds like possible water ingress to the BCM under the dash................thats what controls pretty much everything and for you to loose all those electrical items, it must be related, it's located up behind the interior fusebox on the drivers side by your knees, hence putting a heater there fixes it.
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Same spoiler / PN on both models, 5J6827939D
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wiring, I have labelled where the Fuse feeds go / come from
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I can't work out if its suspension or tyre noise Im hearing...........could you not do a video on a tarmac road ?
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Offcourse often possible, there is multiple switches within the stalk, any one can fail.................if you think about it, the rear is used a LOT less, so the probability is it is less likely the rear wiper switch would fail. Even gaining access to the switch, spraying some switch cleaner "may" assist. Not sure what your mechanics used to "plug in"....but if it was VCDS for example, the switch contacts can be checked with that to see if they are working when the stalk is moved to different positions. Also, I know you say they have been checked, but checking the "wrong" fuse is easily done and often the owners manual differs from the "actual" vehicle (if thats what was used). The rear wiper is on a different fuse, so we know thats good because it works.... the front wipers are Fuse 26 (15 Amp)......and Fuse 44 (20 Amp) .....worth double checking both those
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Have you looked at / tested / replaced / changed the wiper stalk itself, not uncommon for these to fail.
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well after also searching.................. this might help https://sites.google.com/site/imnuts/?pli=1
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I feel your frustration, nothing worse than trying to find an answer on the net and always finding bits here and there with no definitive guide and often people who have done the job being "shady" about helping.
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I think you can only retrieve the security code on cars up to 2006, but don't quote me on it.
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if not broken spring, then agree with the above.
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I think programming keys, especially those which are part of the immobiliser system is even something VCDS cannot do without the security code, I have no experience with VAG commander Have a read here https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/vw-remote-matching.html and here http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Immobilizer
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you need the bluetooth module and wiring loom to connect from that to the radio. module like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225262586674?hash=item3472b24b32:g:1P8AAOSwT0tje3OA&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoCyHoQqnwzWru5AUb5k5N%2BRBCPhUUt4AYtzzBzstqniag1smHpPsDL1b2ll3F2cN6s%2BeTOW5p%2BbCdWR3i8pvJRqMAX5tpxlQ5FDu9jAtPiRG05jmizulwz6ukvbCHsUg9HdoJpg%2B1%2FsFWMV37KSOsF%2BD5n67N906zAVOxN%2Fq6ikbFyxNsCyEEOW227oyc2%2FWLSEOVlKwLoT3tIkC7KFYjOM%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4796O6kYQ loom like this which "includes" the microphone, which you also need, so check which loom you buy if you have no current microphone. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232532901817?hash=item36240a7fb9:g:1ZMAAOSwb3lZ7IN7&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8ILd6p3QwNJxyGUsg7LElp%2FYKeidh1eJb56np0MAPcYxyl5hHp5k0j5UUQ%2FYr9THFwnr2hQHRB6%2FjfRktyLZSRXJSWJIpkP37GMld5WH22JXTKVbyaByVKzMwosepUWKXo%2FLoVh%2F%2FcPAM%2FhYkffN66KbkcTYufF%2BWlhKI5tGygyUGmr4PlE4gUQaqUOc3fmUKd6xtcUka4o9LowGXGIL9coYlp7GCSD6xcNyNK3Fufab7bA75CgMoiAlb9mBErkl6KAP%2FA5cqnbeDPnZ%2F%2BFr9IceZifeVjw4SLslAl2arQwPOglmF%2FyZja9ujBKJmcG1Kw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5Cghe-kYQ OR you could buy an RNS315 with bluetooth and sell your unit on, potentially cheaper that way, just have to ensure you get one with bluetooth, you check this by looking at the label which must show a populated (not 0's) mac address.
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front spring on my RS broke @ 19,000 miles.............and I'm gentle over speed humps and do my best to avoid sunken drains and potholes.
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First port of call would be to check battery terminals are fitted correctly, clean and tight.
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I would like to think that the plug in your picture IS the problem, the wiring looks to be very suspect. The seal (grey rubber) is coming out of the back of the plug on what looks like the black wire, this could indicate the pin is not clicked home and is making no contact on the sensor pin, hence the fault code. That plug needs to be repaired / replaced properly "before" condeming any sensor. If your confident / capable to re-pin the plug then do that, if its passed its best (which I suspect it is) then the best / most reliable solution is to fit and new connector / pins and wires tails and re-join to origianl loom. EDIT....... Its a 4 pin P/N Ebay item with tails to easily splice in. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323530677224?hash=item4b53ee5be8:g:N40AAOSwTGZhH~bC&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoPWsplCudygv5Qw4YSoU9QPQmihPfxGvXutk2DtpssNIIuqRrqrPl3x9PrX5sLTiSX%2FwIdl7cCKlptwUwrV2shxU0kHkKGktTuurbkUUr6j8lGjx5CEK1a07FnOP6KYlfQ5vUXLM8J%2B9wWMW%2FQ1bgJ9JOM%2Bi%2FIE9bIhkBU6jHmEcRjlWKiw2mR%2Ba%2FCNCbUh2m2nw3Q8OJHsdDxgiN7YSIkI%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4y8-6egYQ
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if the starter is spinning the engine it's working, if its spinning it slowly, it's the battery. If its spinning the engine over ok, just won't fire, then I would be looking at the fuel pressure and probably the fuel pump. The fuel is more viscous when cold so a worn pump can push it, when it's warm its more like water and a worn pump will struggle.
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There is actually 3 of them, so ideally you need to know which one your looking for........if you have done any work "near" any of them, then thats the first port of call to see if they are plugged in etc.
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there is literally loads of diff numbers for same thing, need to know build date of the vehicle.
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what shape D3 ? Had 2 D2 A8's, both 4.2 quattro's, what fantastic machines they were.
