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Hi @simonpa, Maybe you can find the answer on cardiagn.com, where you can download workshop manuals for free.

I think DSG6 (DQ250) has been used until 2018. It was mounted on both FWD and AWD. I would say DSG7 (DQ380 for FWD and DQ381 for AWD) was mounted when FL versions started to appear. Mecatronic issues on DSG7 (DQ380/DQ381) seems to be quite seldom. Nothing to do with DSG7 (DQ200), which was a nightmare for after sales.

Mk3 TDI190 DSG6 4x4 Combi too. 80% motorways 10% country roads, 10% city. 7,17 l/100km over 110000 km (average being calculated by Spritmonitor App). By I think, it has become lower over the last year. I've changed my way to drive. I lift up the foot a bit. 😁 I'm now quite often below 7l/100km, even in winter. 950km with a full tank.

spritmonitor.de gives good statistics on fuel consumption depending on car model and engine. Thus you can compare easily. Additionally, they propose a smartphone app, that enables you to monitor, fuel consumption, costs, etc. depending on how fine you want to monitor your car.

For me it’s not a question of price. I just want to have the Haldex serviced as it should. VAG standard Haldex service doesn’t include pump strainer cleaning. It’s not even written in the VAG workshop manual. Not cleaning the pump gauge is a non sense, just as if you never replace oil filter upon engine oil change.

To me, a safe way to route the wire (or video cable if a dual dashcam) along A-pillar is to remove the trim and then to fix the wire/cable to existing harnesses with tie wraps. This way it can't cause an issue if airbag needs to deploy.

Actually, you have to clean it upon oil change, otherwise it may flush the Haldex... But I assume that's what you had in mind. VAG only recommends every 3 years w/o mileage limit, which is a nonsense to me. Considering it also strongly depends on the king of roads you use (dry motorways is not like twisty snowy mountain roads for instance). I think every 45000 km, not far from your 30k (miles?), sounds wise to me. I agree Complete opération explained here, for those who'd like to do it too (or at least understand):

On the ones you've owned maybe. My MK3 is a MY18, built in octobre 2017, but doesn't throw this kind of message. This can happen.

If you have small ramps or any mean to raise rear wheels by 4-5", you can lay under the rear bumper and you can access to the sensors. If it's one on the opposite side of the exhaust outlet, you first need to unscrew a kind of small undertray. Of course, if you have thick hands or Schwarzenegger's arms, the official method is highly recommended... 😁

Since many car have now automatic headlights as standard spec, I think it's easy not to notice they're actually off with DRLs ON. Why? Because, DRL light the road ahead quite significantly, and your dashboard is lighted up too as soon as DRL are ON. Additionally, if you let your car to a garage, most of the time, you take your car back with headlights on OFF position, since it's part of their 'check in' procedure. But, as you're used to automatic lights, it may take you several miles to notice it and put the selector back on AUTO position...

I think you need to come back to N or D right after reverse position is selected, otherwise, it it may be considered as the standard setting or something like that. I made it wrong 2 or 3 times with my Mk2. User's manual contains the exact setting process.

Hi, As promised, here is the way I solved my problem. To make it easier, you need to unscrew the complete armrest. For that, open the ski hatch and fold it down. 2 torx screws are located at the bottom and fixed to the back rest. Once armrest is removed, then unscrew the leather part. 2 other torx screws are located on each side, somehow on the pivoting axle. Then you need to remove the carpet covering on the back of the ski hatch to access 4 inner hooks. I used a heat gun set at 120°C to unglue the carpet covering. You have to unlock several small hooks all around the armrest. But the closer to the front of the armrest you get, the harder it is. To make it easier, you need to unlock the 2 inner hooks at the bottom of the armrest. But, they're quite hard to unlock. For each of them, you have to press some sort of tab to be able to unlatch the hooks. See below, the tab in the lower rectangle and the hooks in the upper rectangle. Then do the same with both inner hooks at the front of the armrest. But, honestly, it's a mess! I've had cold sweat not to break both shells. It took me more than 2 hours to have enough access. Once the arm rest is enough opened (if not totally) , you can get back the banana-shaped missing lug: Put the handle back in place and then put the lug back in place too (blue rectangle below). Then attach the spring with one hook on the shell (yellow rectangle below), and the other one on the handle (red rectangle below): Note: I had to "close" hooks at each end of the spring with pliers, to be sure it remains "attached" to the shell and the handle. Finally, I "glued" both lugs with black car and boat putty. Then you just have to clip both shells, which takes... less than 20s. As I unfortunately broke few small hooks around the edge, I used black car and boat putty agains to get a nice finish at both shells junction. Now that's done, you can put the covering carpet back in place, using an iron tor make the glue "melt" into the carpet. No worry, if the carpet gets a bit "polished" and shiny. You get its original appearance just by scratching the carpet with a cutter blade. Then just reassemble the armrest back into the car. That's it!

Well, I don't know what happened in detail. I just had the warning on the dashboard twice and found the issue on this brilliant forum! I just then understood about what the system aims at. Problem was confirmed by the dealer.

I agree with @J.R.. If I well understand the 1st pic, it's were fuel is injected to run DPF regeneration. Thus not surprising it gets hot. The 130°C you're referring to concern the coolant system. Just point the hose at one end of the radiator with your red dot. The coolest end should be where the coolant temperature sensor is. I unfortunately had to change my water pump because it had stuck in the wrong position. Actually the pump remains inactive upon cold starts to accelerate oil temperature increase, to make the engine be at its best operating point quicker. But if the water pump doesn't activate, it can lead to overtemp... A safe way to protect your engine from overtemp until your water pump is changed is to set cabin heating at max position, if your coolant starts getting higher than 95-100°C As @J.R.mentioned I did take the opportunity to have the cam belt replaced when they changed the water pump. BTW : Skoda France granted me a 90% support on the water pump replacement costs, since this is a known issue on TDI engines. But cam belt spare parts were 100% charged to me (labor hours were already included in water pump replacement). Note: Skoda recommends a cam belt replacement at 210000 km on TDI engines, whereas there's no replacement recommendation for water pump. It's only a common habit to have it changed upon cam belt replacement. Thus, depending on the mileage of your engine, the Skoda UK will define the support percentage, they should grant you. It happened at 62000 km for me.

and probably due to corroded parts on the chassis, floor / door panels... Cars from this generation were quite sensitive to corrosion. 🙁

I think it's the best thing to do. It will take you less time to remove the undertray, than go to the dealer, buy it (if available in stock), come back home and put it back in placE. Additionally, you'll save some fuel and £! To get under the car and remove the undertray, you need to raise the front wheels by something like 5-6". If you don't have ramps, you can try stacking thick wood boards, or bricks. But if you use bricks, be careful, they don't "nose up"... This could scratch your front bumper... It should not happen if you use short ones

If off the road, then even more affordable , but probably very expensive to restore 😐...

It should be a very affordable young timer!

AFAIK, I don't think so... It seems to be the new standard configuration.

Same as @JR RS for my MY18.

Then if Skoda brand, they're most likely Thule ones actually, I guess. 🤔 Not really surprised that they've got stuck, if installed from new. Try then to spray some WD40 to unstick them...

Weak battery can make a real mess, I agree. Another option: harnesses chewed by a rodent. A rodent had chewed 4 different harnesses on my wife's Audi Q3 indeed. No less than 28 cuts! This raised fault codes on brake fluid level sensor, Oil level sensor, front parking sensor, gearbox neutral position sensor. Thus, no front park assist system, no Stop & Start, no low oil level monitoring, red warning on brake system, and consequently, no ABS, no ESP. Fortunately, owning a VCDS allowed me to diagnose all affected harnesses. It took me a whole day to fix this, (cause I'm not very skilled at electrical wire welding 😁). But I saved ~€800 compared to a repair by an Audi dealer...

Hi, Maybe you could say which brand and model these roof bars are. If someone has the same, he can answer you more easily / quickly.

🤩 You've just made me ~40 years younger! Thanks! 🤣

If you have a LHD to be more accurate.