Bap33

I think it's 15 km/h or 10 mph... 🤔

If the goal is to retrofit your rear seat to keep you son warm in his own baby/child seat. Just forget it. You'll save money. It will be quicker and much more efficient to set your ventilation system at the right demand temperature, than expecting he gets warm thanks to the rear heated seat. It's only heat transfert per conduction. There would be a lot of "barriers" indeed before your son can feel a temperature increase of even 0,5°. Heat will have to go thru your car seat housing (leather / clothe) -> Child seat frame -> Child seat housing -> Your son's own clothes for instance... To many opportunity for heat losses. IMHO, if your son were big enough not to need a child seat it could make sense. Otherwise... Just throw your money in the bin... It will have more or less the same effect...

Don't regret your choice. Black is 'common', whereas red si so rare!

Found it in the 'Maintenance chapter' on cardiagn.com.

Try again on cardiagn.com. I've just checked, it works for me (with Chrome).

Sad to read this. But hopefully for better mid/long terme futur! Enjoy your new GTE et feel free to come back on Briskoda from time to time ! All the best for you! Good luck! 🤞

WARNING Err... The cabin filter isn't in the right position. It unfortunately is upside down in this video. Look at the arrow printed on the filter side The flow direction is downwards. And normally, you have to insert a plate (tool T10532) under the filter prior to pull it out. This tool shall also remain in position to protect the air blower from dust and leaves, which have to be removed before inserting the new cabin filter. Only then, the tool can be removed before putting the cover plate back in place.

Thanks for correcting me @roottoot. I didn't notice it was a MY20 engine.

The most important information to check is 504.00-507.00 compliance. Compliant oils are mainly 5W30. Very few are 0W30. Then brand doesn’t really matter. I used Shell Helix, formerly. I switched to Total Ineo Quartz 2 years ago. Both are ok. I used Castrol Edge a very long time ago, but it turned very expensive compared to others.

@Pete1955 Just trust yourself. You won't need to buy a new panel. You can also use a wooden spatula as a lever to get it out.

If you're 30, I'd say... Hmm OK, really worth of it? If you're 40, the.... Errr... Sounds very interesting, why not! If you're 60... I need one immediately!!!! LOL... 🤣 Note: I don't have many years to wait before I get 50. 😄

Sometime, the letter makes the difference between left and right! May be very different then...

There are simply a lot of metal fixing clips all around the panel. You need to pull hard, once all screws have been removed. If necessary, you can download the workshop manual (body interior) from cardiagn.com.

Nice! Enjoy the road with it! 🤩 One question, I can't remember. Is it an AWD or a RWD?

Amazing work! Great job. I would really be tempted. But a bit too tricky for me. I would fear something goes wrong or I couldn't code something correctly afterwards.

@CageyH I live in France too. Like you, I have 19" summer wheels. I've chosen the winter tyres (on 17" alloy rims) option from the very beginning I got my Mk3. I go to winter sports once a year, and often go to mountains for Xmas holidays. Besides, I regularly face temperatures below 7°C, since I live in 'Ile de France', which is for sure colder than Toulouse area , Thus, much more 'interesting' for me to invest in winter tyres, which definitely let me feel safer, when temperature drops down.

Then you need to buy chains such as Spikes spider / Polaire / Konig K-Summit, which don't have any part on the inner side of the wheel. Otherwise Michelin SOS Grip or Musher socks seem to be OK for 235/40/19.

@CageyH Did you have a look to Michelin Easygrip Snow chains? They can often suit to so called "not chainable" cars. As @langers2k said, it's an inner clearance story. Give a call to Michelin Customer support center, they'll tell you if it can fit. I had the same problem with a Mk2 Audi A3 years ago. It was OK. It's really efficient and much more affordable (~80-100€ for a set).

This is a Superb Mk3 picture thread, isn't it? Or is it slowly changing into a 'rim thread'? 😜

I fear, the original driver wing mirror has been replaced by a wrong reference. If your car is fitted with blind sport monitoring, both outside mirrors should have the logo. Additionally, you should be able de (de)activate them using the right button on your steering wheel and it should be displayed i the maxi DOT. IHMO, the seller has either fooled you or made a mistake / confusion with another car, when he wrote the car description. 🤔 Anyway, whatever the reason, I think you should deserve some cash back if the car is not what you bought.

That's right. Only "if possible" may need to be deleted.

I switched to winter tyres yesterday. I've used used my brand new wireless impact wrench to remove the screws. Very impressed to note that, I had to select the max torque at 400Nm to get them out. For some of them, it wasn't even enough ! I had to use a manual wrench with an extension 😮 ! Very surprised since I always use a torque wrench at 140Nm to screw them in ! At least confirmed discussion I had with some 'Facom' and 'Snap On' experts about torque wrenches for my job 3 years ago. They told me that depending on environmental constraints (heat/loads/etc.) the loosening torque can be up to 4 times the tightening torque! Considering a torque wrench is sized to 125% of its max value (Facom information, also confirmed by Snap'On), never use a torque wrench to loosen your screws, it can seriously damage the torque wrench! If you can switch its mechanism it's only to tighten reverse thread screws!

It is indeed. The problem is much more sensitive on manual gearboxes. I don't take it personally, since I don't belong to this kind of drivers. However, when this S&S problem happens (on my wife's Q3 in particular, with manual gearbox) and sticks me in the middle of a roundabout, though I had taken enough margin (or at least, I thought I had, not considering this would occur) not to pull out in front of other drivers, the result is the same... I get stuck in the middle in a roundabout and other driver can have the same feeling as you: What the hell this %£$@#& guy is doing!?! The first time this happens to you, you can easily panic and make a real mess with pressing clutch pedal, shutting wilingly the engine down with the key, try to restart, but nothing happens as you like. Now, that I have sadly experienced this several times (fortunately without any accident), the lesson learnt for me, is to simply press the clutch pedal, which forces the engine to restart in the S&S control logic. Then I can restart normally and less dangerously. I hope it may help other drivers...

The S&S can shut the engine down as soon as you’re below 5km/h and foot on brake pedal. I dislike this and even find it dangerous sometimes when it happens at roundabouts just when you intend to insert in the trafic. It’s even amplified with a manual gearbox (on my wife’s Q3 for instance) compared to my DSG6. It stalls just when you need power.

I also drive 235/40/19 tyres and always inflate them to "ECO" recommendations. It suits me perfectly, but I have to say that DCC helps a lot keeping a comfortable ride though the slight overinflation of "ECO" mode. Note: The overoverinflation of "ECO" mode trend to postpone first signs of saw tooth wear on rear tyres, which is know to cause very unpleasant buzz / purr noise in the cabin on many VAG models.