Bap33

It is indeed. The problem is much more sensitive on manual gearboxes. I don't take it personally, since I don't belong to this kind of drivers. However, when this S&S problem happens (on my wife's Q3 in particular, with manual gearbox) and sticks me in the middle of a roundabout, though I had taken enough margin (or at least, I thought I had, not considering this would occur) not to pull out in front of other drivers, the result is the same... I get stuck in the middle in a roundabout and other driver can have the same feeling as you: What the hell this %£$@#& guy is doing!?! The first time this happens to you, you can easily panic and make a real mess with pressing clutch pedal, shutting wilingly the engine down with the key, try to restart, but nothing happens as you like. Now, that I have sadly experienced this several times (fortunately without any accident), the lesson learnt for me, is to simply press the clutch pedal, which forces the engine to restart in the S&S control logic. Then I can restart normally and less dangerously. I hope it may help other drivers...

The S&S can shut the engine down as soon as you’re below 5km/h and foot on brake pedal. I dislike this and even find it dangerous sometimes when it happens at roundabouts just when you intend to insert in the trafic. It’s even amplified with a manual gearbox (on my wife’s Q3 for instance) compared to my DSG6. It stalls just when you need power.

I also drive 235/40/19 tyres and always inflate them to "ECO" recommendations. It suits me perfectly, but I have to say that DCC helps a lot keeping a comfortable ride though the slight overinflation of "ECO" mode. Note: The overoverinflation of "ECO" mode trend to postpone first signs of saw tooth wear on rear tyres, which is know to cause very unpleasant buzz / purr noise in the cabin on many VAG models.

Interesting behavior, but I will keep on feathering the gas pedal instead to avoid early wear on ball joints of the steering system and front axle.

😯 Much darker than new oil, isn’t it? I didn’t notice such a « Guiness-like » oil, when I changed the oil of my DSG6 upon 60000 km. Good thing, that you changed it. Did you notice any improvement in the behavior of your manual gearbox? Smoother ? Quiter may be ?

I think most of your questions will find an answer here:

I think we say the same in different ways. 😉

No arm in trying for sure, but always skeptical to see that DSG gearboxes require oil change every 60000 km whereas oil for manual gearboxes doesn’t require any service at all. DSG gearbox is a bit a piece of watchmaking, but I assume oil change at 120000 for instance (twice less) for a manual gearbox should be a clever decision. I ‘ve asked the same for my wife’s Q3 (also manual gearbox equipped) and the workshop manager looked at me as a cow watch the train rolling by or as if I was speaking an old dialect from a remote part of China... 😟

@Steviedakota How many miles on the clock has your Superb and what is the engine version? When is your oil change planned? Just looking forward to reading the results and benefits.

12? Strange, considering the standard is 10...

You’re right. I own a late MY17 L&K. This was not even proposed as an option when I specced it as far as I can remember (at least on french version).

Congratulations, this must be a long job... Did you take some pics? It would be great to write a ‘How to guide´!

May be this guide deserves being pinned on the fisrt page of this forum. 😉 Additionallly I’d like to insert a link in other model forums (Octi 2, Yeti, Kodiaq) since they may also be DSG6 equipped, but I don’t really know what would be the best way to do it. If any moderator has a solution, feel free!

Nothing done on my Superb directly. But I've just been finishing this How to guide: Enjoy !

Hi all, As many VAG cars, my Superb Mk3, is fitted with a DSG6 (DQ250) gearbox. Here is a tutorial to change its oil and filter on your own. You'll probably tell me: What's the point with it? Just have a look on Google or YouTube and you'l find plenty of them! That's true, but having done this exercise, I could see that it is very rare to have all information in a single tutorial. I will therefore try to be as exhaustive as possible. Here a list of some Skoda models also DSG6 equipped (I nevertheless let you check on your own, since depending on engine type or MY, some may be DSG7 fitted⚠️ instead of DSG6) ! - Octavia 2 - Yeti - Kodiaq - Superb 2 - Superb 3 First of all, here is the DQ250 gearbox: We're going to focus on the following items: #17: Filter housing - Tightening torque : 20Nm #18: O-ring - P/N N910 845 01 (normally sold with the filter) #19: Oil filter - P/N 02E 305 051C #26: Oil pipe - Tightening torque: 3Nm #27: Seal ring - P/N N 043 089 2 (normally sold with the sealing plug) #28: Sealing plug - P/N N902 154 04 - Tightening torque: 45Nm Not shown on this pic: DSG Oil - P/N G 052 182 A2 - 6l - Difficulty : 2 - Time needed : approx. 2h - Number of person needed : 1 - Necessary tools : ¤ VCDS software (or similar, To be confirmed) ¤ 24mm socket ¤ 8mm and 14mm Hex ¤ Torx 25 and 45 ¤ Ratchet or classic wrenches for disassembly ¤ Torque wrench(es) to apply specified torques (3 / 20 / 45 Nm) ¤ Short and intermediate extensions for ratchet or torque wrenches to enable easier access to screws ¤ Small flat screwdriver ¤ Filling hose VAS6262 ¤ Wooden toothpick ¤ Small fork ¤ Slip joint pliers ¤ Oil drip tray ¤ Twine (about 80cm long) or an old metallic hanger (wire one) ¤ Wide masking tape ¤ Rags ¤ Lifting means Concerning VAS6262, you can find one on numerous website at various prices. Without switching to a much more expensive pump model, I suggest taking a filling hose with a 1/4 turn shut-off valve close to the adapter on the can side. These ones are less widespread but still at affordable price and of course easier to use, since you can work without being 'showered' with oil. I've chosen this one on toolstogo-uk.com https://www.tools2go-uk.com/13664247/gear-oil-filling-hose-for-vag-dsg?g…=&Lng=en Dealing now with the DSG oil kit, you really have to be careful on the kit content ⚠️. Indeed some kits only content DSG oil and oil filter, but no sealing plug nor seal ring! ⚠️ Warning: Prices can really be different from a website to another (starting form 90€ up to ~200€ !) Chose the right one! After hours of searches and checks, I finally bought the Febi-Bilstein kit, which can be found on autodoc.co.uk for 100€-ish https://www.autodoc.co.uk/febi-bilstein/15821763?search=FEBI BILSTEIN Transmission oil change kit (171762) It effectively contains: - 6l of gearbox oil - DSG oil filter (#19) and its O-ring (#18) - Sealing plug (#28) and 2 seal rings (#27). By the way, I still don't understand why 2 rings?🤔 Note: I did not take time to ask for OEM spare parts prices by my local dealer. Step #0 : Preparation You need to lift the car high enough to get under the car and to get enough space to move your arms comfortably around the gearbox. Note: Though you've lifted the car, it needs to remain horizontal to make a proper filling with right oil level (see step 7). Step #1 : Air system removal Start with removing the air box. You first have to remove the 2 T25 Torx screws (#1), then unclip the cover on the rear face (#2) and lift it by rocking it as shown by arrow to avoid breaking the 2 lugs at the front side of the cover (#3). Finally simply push to the rear to release the lugs (#3). You now have to unclip the 2 lugs, where the 2 torx screws you have just removed where tightened (#1). Be careful for this step, since these 2 lugs may break. I've seen 1 or 2 pics of broken lugs on this forum. ⚠️ Then, you need to push the airbox backwards, so that its front side can 'rip' other the bonnet slam panel. Then unclip the hose (#3) and with a rocking motion back and forth, release the front side so that the airbox can be fully removed. However, do not hesitate to put one hand on the back of airbox to be able to pull forwards more easily (#4) and take the airbox out, which is quite large. This being done, you need to remove the air filter housing. This is simpler. Start with unplugging the small hose (#2) at the air filter housing outlet and unplug the air flow meter connector (#3). ⚠️Be careful: There's a small grey latch on the connector (if equipped) to unlock before pulling the connector off, otherwise it won't come out or you risk ripping it off. Now, remove the metal collar (#4) on the large air hose downstream the air flow meter. Use a slip joint plier for this. You can now unclip the air filter housing, which is simply fitted onto 3 shock absorber pins (#1). Pull vertically upwards. Don't hesitate to pull hard (continuously and not jerkily), it holds up really well! The 3rd pawn is under the air box (dotted circle), but it comes out quite easily when the other 2 are already out. Once the air filter hosing has been unclipped, all you have to do is disconnecting the large hose, downstream from the flow meter. Be careful to 'close' the hose to avoid any foreign object damage or even just dust towards the engine. Masking tape will do do the job! Step #2 : Battery removal To take it out, you need to remove a 13mm hex screw, which tightens a retaining bracket et holds the battery in place. This screw is on the front of the battery (#5 on previous pic). Then remove both battery terminal covers (by lifting vertically) to access the clamping nuts of both battery terminals posts (10mm Hex socket). Warning⚠️: Start disconnecting the "-" terminal post before disconnecting the "+" terminal post! For more safety, wrap them with masking tape as well if you want. Battery can be then removed easily, even if it weighs! Step #3 : Battery fixing plate removal You can now access the battery fixing plate, which is held by 2 10mm Hex screws (blue squares) and one 10mm hex nut. Sorry, the latter is out of the pic, but it can be found easily (just follow blue arrow). Be careful don't be too quick at this step, several fixing staples are indeed attached to the battery holder. You might be tempted to cut the tie-wraps, but these are attached to small brackets, which are simply stapled (red circles) or clipped (orange circle) to the battery fixing plate. Staples can be removed by simply pushing them with a flat screwdriver, while the clip-on holder can be pulled out with a small fork. There is now a small Control Unit attached to the battery fixing plate. Unclip the small lug (red circle) and pull the control unit vertically (as suggested by arrow) to remove it from the battery fixing plate: The battery fixing plate can now be removed. Step #4 : Oil draining You can finally access the DSG oil filter housing: A 24mm hex socket is necessary to remove it. Once done, protecting the filter location against foreign object damage or dust is necessary. Aluminium foil will do the job. FYI, here is the difference between a new filter and a filter with 60,000 km on the clock. Now remove the sealing plug with the 14mm Hex. Once done, the oil flow will be very thin, due to the oil pipe. Remove the oil pipe, using a 8mm Hex. After that, the oil flow is more important. Step #5 : Oil filter replacement Once the gearbox is empty, you can put back in place: - The Oil pipe (still using the 8mm Hex. Tightening torque = 3nm). If you don't have a torque wrench complying with such a low range. Take it easy! Just to give an idea, it is roughly the same order of magnitude as for closing a jam jar lid. (Sorry, this is the only simple image I found quickly ...). Well just keep in mind, it's light !! - The new DSG oil filter (don't forget to moisten the O-ring in its hole) - The new O-ring on the filter housing (don't forget to moisten this one too) - The filter housing, which must be tightened at 20 Nm (with the 24mm Hex socket) Step #6 : Reassembly Steps #1 and #2 can be processed in the reverse order to reassemble : - The battery fixing plate (and the small control unit) - The Battery - The air filter housing and the hoses - The airbox. Step #7 : Oil filling The filling hose can now be screwed in the sealing plug thread At the other end, donc forget to shut the 1/4 turn valve, before screwing it onto the oil can. To make it easier, you can attach the can to the bonnet with a 80cm long twine or an old metal hanger (wire one), that you can shape to transform it as a can holder. If you want to fill the gearbox faster, you just need to make a little hole in the can bottom (now upside down ) to enable air getting in the can. Of course, don't forget to open the 1/4 turn valve. http://img.xooimage.com/files1/b/e/c/whistle-1bb1.gif You have to fill approximately 5,5l. Once again, don't forget to shut the 1/4 turn valve upon each oil can change http://img.xooimage.com/files1/b/e/c/whistle-1bb1.gif. Warning: Do not make a hole in 6th can, otherwise there could be some side effects... http://img.xooimage.com/files1/3/e/0/33-2bc7.gif When the 6th can is half empty, shut the 1/4 turn valve, remove the can from the filling hose. Put now the free end of the filling hose into the dip tray. You can now open the 1/4 turn valve to start adjusting the oil level Step #8 : Oil level adjustment ⚠️ Now, start the engine and keep your foot pressing the brake pedal. Move the gear lever in accordance with the following sequence: P to R, wait 3s R to N, wait 3s N to D, wait 3s D to S, wait 3s S to D, wait 3s From this point, most other tutorial suggest getting back directly to P. I personally rather got back step by step, still waiting 3s after each step. Once back to P, you can remove your foot from the brake pedal, but keep the engine idling. Now, connect your VCDS cable and select the gearbox controller (02 Auto Trans): Once in the gearbox controller menu, there are 2 options: 1) Either get into "08 Meas. Blocks". then in the new window, get into "Group 019" and check the Temperatur cell of "ATF (Auto Tranmission Fluid)" parameter. This is at least what I've found in several other tutorials. But though owning an official VCDS cable, the "08 Meas. Blocks" is greyed on mine. (may be my Micro-CAN version starts reaching its limits). Hence I had to use option #2 below. 2) Or get into "Adv. Meas. Values" menu: From this point, type "trans" in the search cell to find all parameters related to the gearbox. In the results list, tick "ATF temperature - Transmission fluid temperature": Now with the engine still idling, just wait for the oil temperature to get between 35 and 45°C. It may take several minutes. Be patient. When oil temperature is close to 35°C, you can remove the filling hose completely. Don't worry temperature is increasing really slowly. The oil flow from the oil pipe starts decreasing. Once the oil temperature is within the 35-45°C range, you can observe that a slight amount of oil flows out via the overflow tube every 30 seconds, independent of the oil level. This is caused by oil pulses, which cool down the coupling. According to workshop manual, this oil quantity is not a criterion to determine the correct oil level. Therefore, they must not be taken into account when assessing oil level. You can now screw back the sealing plug (with 14mm Hex). Tighten it at 45Nm. From this point, you only need to stop the engine, disconnect your VCDS cable and put the soundproof housing back in place under the engine, and... That's it! Well, non counting the specific tools, you've just saved ~200€! Note: I'd also like to write special Thanks to @J.R., who helped me to translate some technical words I was missing! Much appreciated.👍 _

I 'played' on 2 things. - Just remind that there's no recommendation to change the coolant pump before the timing belt, whose replacement is only recommended at 210000 km. Mine was really far from that with only 62000 km on the clock. - Simply mentioned that my customer satisfaction would strongly influence our decision regarding my wife's car replacement in 2022. But I don't really know what effectively made them decide to cover 90% of the coolant pump and related labor costs. 🤔

Problem fixed! Coolant pump failure has been confirmed. Congratulation to my local dealer who managed to find available ressources in less than one week, and to replace the complete timing-belt, coolant pump and accessories belt kit and to obtain coverage form Skoda France in 1 day today! Skoda France finally covers the coolant pump and labor time at 90%. I've thus been charged for the remaining 10% as well as the other spare parts (timing belt and accessories belt). I finally paid 600€ instead of 895€. At least it will be a good selling point, when time for myMk3 replacement has come (probably end of 2022 of 2023). P.S.: I managed to get some pics of the pump. I'll post them here.

I don't think, this is an expensive spare part. I would buy a new one. You should save time compared to a repair attempt with little guaranteed result.

Symptoms trend to confirm my coolant pump is about to die. 2 others slight overtemp in 2 trips shorter than 15km. I managed to limit them. For the 2 latest short trips, I set air cabin temperature on ‘HI’ and DCC on ´Eco’ and did not drive faster than 80km/h. It worked! Coolant temp did not went higher than 90C. Only one more 20km trip to drive the car to my local dealer on Monday to have it repaired. Timing belt and accessories belt will be replaced at the same time for ~900€. ☹️

I´ve made some researches on the net. This problem seems to be quite widely spread on TDI engines on all VAG brands. It also appears that it is a well known issue since several spare parts manufacturers propose 2 version of timing belt kit. - One is OEM like, including a coolant pump with a valve - One including a coolant pump without valve. This 2nd option makes me think that it is a very well known issue, since this overtemperature problem is massively caused by the valve seizing in the coolant pump...

Note: When I got the message, the outside temperature was only 17,5C. Not a heat wave temperature. ☹️

Hi, Same "experience" for me yesterday on the way home from work. I have a 17 km drive to get home, 2/3 of the distance is on motorway. I was roughly at the half of the trip, gently cruising at 110km/h, when I also had this scary warning message 'Engine overtemperature. Stop Engine !' Since I had activated the offroad mode on my Columbus and both oil and coolant temperatures were selected and displayed, I saw the coolant temp 'spike' at 117°C. I immediately slowed down at 90 km/h to see if coolant temperature would decrease. Fortunately, it went back to 90°C quickly. Then no warning message anymore. It's the first time, this happens. Not comfortable with the idea of water pump replacement soon with only 62000 km on the clock (also a MY2017 and TDI190). Could it be related (I mean caused) to the silikat bag in the coolant tank? I did not removed it nor replaced the coolant with G12 or G12+. I remember about a thread in Octavia 3 forum concerning silikat bag. AFAIK, this silikat bag aims at extending the water pump life. But Indeed it doesn't especially, if it leaks. Do you think, I could significantly (I mean ~1-2 years / 20-40000 km) postpone the waterpump and time belt replacement if I remove the silikat bag and change the coolant? Thanks.

Probably the answer to your question:

My L&K (kessy equiped) was registered in Dec. 2017. I've been getting the "Replace key fob battery" message few days ago for the 2nd time. Does a battery replacement every 2 years looks normal to you? 🤔 I never had to change the key fob battery on my previous Mk2 (not Kessy equiped), which I kept for 6 years. 😐 Thanks for your feedbacks.

What is this supposed to bring you? Sorry I didn’t catch you. ☹️