Alasdair1

The rivets are N 91078801 and are 6.4 x 10mm. I got a two handed rivet gun to do my sons when the regulator totaled itself. Got them on ebay for around £10 for 10. Put part number into search and a few should ping up. Make sure your not paying a fortune for just one rivet! Alasdair

worth a shot. On mine it overboosted and randomly you just heard a very slight blow off sound. Almost like a blip of a siren in the distance then loss of power. Alasdair

Might be sticking turbo veins. I think they are variable on yours. On my Octavia no flashing coil light but would go into limp mode randomly especially if accelerating hard in 2nd - 4th gear and clear itself after restart. It wasnt a full limp mode just down about 30% on power. No codes stored. I first thought it was veins sticking but I manually operated wastegate first and discovered it was sticking slightly at a certain point. I lubricated and kept manually operating it till it was smooth again and no more limp modes. As there are no codes it might be worth a look at the actuator Alasdair

Reckon get it scanned for codes. sounds like either an under or overboost turbo problem. My old octavia did similar due to actuator sticking but without a scan on yours its guess work. Mine used to go into limp mode but no eml. Car drove ok but definite lack of power. Alasdair

Daughter used Gtechniq C4 Permanent Trim Restorer on her old peugeot 205gti and it cured the faded plastic trim. been on for about a year and still looks good. Alasdair

Have had well worn pads that I reckond would be ok for a while as car wasnt getting used that much but due to age and wear/heat the pad parted company from the backing plate. You get a definite squeel when that happens. If there well worn as in down to 2-3mm I would change them for peace of mind. Alasdair

I put the part number into ebay and If its the pump there a few on ebay for around £40 but not sure if they send to eu. Alasdair

It maybe a loose connection somewhere or bad earth. The fact that it worked under heavy braking may have moved connector or broken wire. Did you remove and check fuses for looseness and corosion? Sons Mk1 fabia had an intermittent fault and it was a cracked strip fuse in engine bay fuse box. Only noticed when I removed fuse and it broke in two. Alasdair

Might get one from scrap yard. Did read that early mk1 2000-2004 used 42pin and later 38pin. Had a quick look on lllparts and came up with 6Q0973042A £24.15 but may need to be ordered as low/out of stock. What problems are you having?? Alasdair

Check there is a cable from car to pads. If its there there should be a wear indicator built in to pads and be connected. On my Octavia it doesnt have one but some did so you can get pads with or without indicator. If the pads fitted dont have the indicator built in and theres a cable there for it but not connected the system wont work. From memory when pads wear it makes contact with disk and turns light on. Alasdair

Might be a wiring/connector issue to the throttle body. It may be that when new the pins make decent contact but if plug on wiring loom end is loose/coroded/worn pins over time may be breaking contact and causing problem. The p242c is either the EGT sensor iss failing or perhaps broken wires. Alasdair

Might be the disk shield thats touching slighty. Mine are fairly rusty and weak and can sometimes make contact or your pads have an audible wear indicator thats touching disk. Check the thickness of pads inner and outer. Alasdair

If the battery is new and good was it coded when fitted? It does sound like a voltage drop so if battery is reading 12.5-12.8v and doesn't drop too low while cranking it may be a bad earth. Check the main one from battery to chassis first and also check starter connections/earth. Not sure if you have had it scanned for codes but maybe VCDS might ping something up the garage has missed. Alasdair

If it got worse wen turning it may well be a bearing or perhaps a inner/outer cv joint? Perhaps a second opinion as you said. Alasdair

Could still be a wheel bearing on its way out. Sons was grumbling away but no play in bearing at all. When I compared the old to new the old one it was a bit tighter to turn. Does it change when turning left to right etc. Alasdair

When the disc is hot does the wheel turn freely. If its stiff or binding try crack open bleed nipple and retighten. If it spins freely afterwards it may be trapped hydraulic pressure so there may be a problem between caliper and ABS unit or ABS itself thats acting like a non return valve. Alasdair

If the car wont turn over or start check fuse 49. Its the small brown one just above relay marked 645 at bottom of picture. Its the clutch switch fuse so if its blown car wont turn over but dash etc will come on. Alasdair

try https://www.lllparts.co.uk/ Look at original manufacturer diagrams and put in your vin. Should come up with correct part fitted. May need to look at PR code sticker in boot if its there to confirm Alasdair

I have had GT radial FE2 for a few years on my Octavias and also a Seat and pretty good tyre all round. Good in dry and wet. Sons got GT radial all season on his Fabia and also excellent in dry,wet and snow. Not too expensive either. Alasdair

Not sure on the roomster but on the octavia the rear swing arm bushes can fail/go soft and cause a weird bearing like noise as the rear end is out of alignment and the noise is tyres scrubbing as you drive. There are concentric bolts for the rear alignment to adjust camber and toe etc. Are the rear tyres wearing evenly? If the bushes have failed or worn the rear end may be out and tyres will wear unevenly. I would maybe get a four wheel alignment done and have the rear end bushes checked. Alasdair

Meant to add its sometimes tricky to see if a fuse is blown especially the micro ones with it in place. Easier if its removed. Alasdair

If you put a fuse in the wrong place there should be an empty socket with two terminals/contacts inside the socket for the fuse to connect to. Blank/unused fuse spaces tend to only have one or none at all. I had a look at the picture close up and cant see any with double contacts empty so maybe a fuse is in the right place and has blown. Did you pull fuses with battery connected as it can cause certain ones to blow. Also check the fuses in engine compartment near battery. Alasdair

With simpler old cars you get away with a poor battery but modern electronic systems are very sensitive to voltage drop. A low battery can cause all manner of problems. Hope a new one cures the problem. Alasdair

12.33 volts is on the low side and could drop signifantly during start stop etc A healthy battery should read 12.6-12.8 which may point to the front assist not available and also cutting out. As for the error codes being wiped as told from skoda engineer when car is locked???? I agree with Pete. Highlly unlikley. In my opinion absolute rubbish Ecu is designed to store codes not wipe them. Think you may be getting fobbed off by the engineer/garage. I would take car back and ask for them (tell them as its under warranty) to fit a new battery and take it from there Alasdair

Think I am wrong re side of car that hose goes. Just found a post on here and on they say on RHD car its drivers side near/under footrest. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/524338-ac-drain-hose-location/ Exit seems to be tricky to see/find Alasdair