Alasdair1

I agree top up to max and monitor on way to garage. Its a lot easier to find a leak when the cars on a lift. I would just use water to top up and once leak has been found get the garage to do a coolant change as it may have been topped up with water for a while if the leak is old and antifreeze will have become diluted. Remember to take extra water with you and watch the temp. If it gets really hot let it cool down before topping up. Not a good idea to add cold water to a very hot engine. Alasdair

You said car was at 90C Wonder if they didn't bleed coolant system properly and you have an airlock hence the heat from front of engine. When driving tomorrow take it easy and if the temp starts rising anything above normal stop and let it cool down. Alasdair

If there was no oil in vessel chances are its down to extreme hot weather or perhaps coolant pump or temp sender is getting tired. As said keep an eye on it Alasdair

Not sure. Have a look near oil filter housing maybe under intake manifold. They normally tend to leak internally. This is one I think for the BXW engine copied from autodoc. Alasdair

Oil on top of cap could have been some spilt during oil change. Was there any signs of oil actually in coolant or inside expansion vessel? The white crystals are probably antifreeze thats dried out. I would top up to max and monitor it regularly. If there was oil inside vessel it may be due to oil cooler failing. Alasdair

Yellow triangle is normally a non critical fault and should be ok to drive short distances. If it turns red then stop immediately. As previously said needs scanned to pin point but normally a message is displayed. The message Put in P could be a pointer to bad switch in gear selector. Try moving through all the gears multiple times. There are I believe microswitches that can wear out or become sticky so the car doesnt reckognise it being in park when you switch engine off. Alasdair

It could be a number of things. I found this on OBDeleven which I reckon may help. Are there any other codes? https://obdeleven.com/p0420?srsltid=AfmBOoooi_1dZutvg7oLiYYhc8C0YpP_iBXenpx51BUsGvkvwcc6Q4cs Sons was due to a failing engine coolant sensor Alasdair

Engine should be listed on V5 and also on PR sticker probably in boot near spare wheel. Alasdair

£102 is a very fair price It would include new CV boot grease hub bolt and time. Last one I got done at garage was £140. Alasdair

If its failing or dirty/damaged wiring and giving a slightly sporadic signal it can cause tyre pressure warning as car thinks a tyre is slightly soft but not drastic enough to trigger ABS light. Alasdair

Seems like the way to go. Hope you don't have to take head off. Alasdair

Reckon so.When you replaced leaking egr cooler the HG may have already gone and with curing one leak its added pressure to another. HG off is probably the only way to make sure. Cant think of any other way exhaust gases are getting in. Alasdair

Check the gear selector plastic bit on top of gearbox isnt seizing and also the cast counter weight is secure and hasnt come loose. Plastic no10 cast no15 Might be worth resetting cables again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-ATE-7PCFE Alasdair

It could be a MAF,02 sensor or crank sensor or perhaps high pressure fuel pump etc. No real way of telling until it gets scanned for codes. Hope its a simple fix. What colour is the smoke from exhaust. Alasdair

Clear codes and If all your tyres are correct pressure reset TPMS and if they return it points to a failing ABS sensor or dirt between sensor and ring or damaged wiring etc. With VCDS I believe its possible to track down the exact wheel sensor thats causing problem. Not sure with OBDeleven. Daughter has same on her Volvo due to failing wheel bearing but its puting up ABS warning as well. Alasdair

Maybe failing crank sensor. Seems odd that two/three plugs or coil packs have failed at same time although I have read that failing plugs can take out coil packs . If the gap is to large then the coil packs have to work harder and can burn out. Hopefully new plugs will cure it and once its plugged into diagnostic maybe clear any historical fault codes and then run engine and scan again. Alasdair

Have used a high lift trolley jack and then concrete blocks under wheels to change Gbox in the past on an old Volvo 940. I put up as high as it would go and then blocks under front wheels then put trolley on blocks laid flat and got higher still then more blocks under wheels enough to get Gbox out. Alasdair

I reckon if you have a lift available use it as it will make things much easier and a lot quicker. You may get away with car ramps but last thing you want is to remove it and not be able to get it out. Depends on how high the jack will go ? Alasdair

If you have biocide then wont do any harm. Have had dreaded diesel bug in my tractor cause it sits for a while without being used. Now use biocide as standard. As mentioned in previous post change filter after a tank or two. Alasdair

Have vibration at higher speeds and acceleration on my Octavia. Changed just about everything and still there. Been like that for over a year and no-one can pinpoint why. Finally last MOT mentioned lower front rear bushes so thats next. If that doesnt work think it may be driveshaft/cv joint related. Driving me mad. Nothing through steering wheel but felt through seat. Alasdair

Sounds like head has gone or egr cooler/oil cooler. Definitly reject car ASAP. From what you have said re courtesy car an the fact that you think yours has been used I wouldn't be dealing with them at all. Years ago folks were given a courtesy car with no MOT and 4 bald tyres 2 down to canvas. I phoned garage and told them to recover courtesy car and get them another. They made up the usual apologetic excuses. Have never dealt with them again. It was also a main dealer!! which changed ownership fairly quickly afterwards. Alasdair

Not sure why there is no wear sensor cable. There may be two options. Try LLLparts original manufacturer diagram using vin and see if you can get the OEM number from diagrams. You may need brake PR code from sticker normally in boot. Alasdair

Unless your driving it like you stole it or having random track days I reckon the stock brakes will be more than enough. Did think about upgrading on my old 1.9tdi but changed tyres for a better grip and stopping power in wet. Found the standard brakes were excellent but new tyres definitely improved stopping power especially when roads were greasy and wet. Alasdair

Looks similar to whats on my Octavia there are plastic inserts that fit into chassis near rear swing arm. I assume to cover bolts. Mine came out when I jacked car up. to get it off axle stands. Alasdair

Try self adhesive velcro tape. Think screwfix or toolstation. Problem is that anything that sticks well may cause problems removing at a later date. Have heard of people using command self adhesive removable strips. Alasdair