Alasdair1

If the original fob works fine I agree its most likely the new fob. Wonder if theres a way to compare signal strength beteen them. Maybe an auto locksmith could check. Also check that the new fob is operating on the same frequency as the original? Had a quick google and Ai says its 433.92Mhz for Skoda but it came from Ai??? Think it should be written inside fob somewhere. Alasdair

I would check that the garage used a full kit and what make and not just the clutch disc. If as Warrior pointed out if it was a diaphram/spring failure on the original and it wasnt changed the new clutch isnt going to last very long. Have heard of a few clutches being replaced at around 15k which I reckon would point to a manufacturer defect somewhere along the line. Sons MK1 fabia had 60k on the clock and clutch totalled itself. No warning or prior slipping just suddenly no drive in any gear. All that was left was a bell housing full of clutch fibres. His was older so I put it down to the age of the clutch. Alasdair

Was it a genuine skoda fob or an aftermarket one. Have read that some aftermarket ones have lower signal strength/poorer antenna. Daughters got one for her volvo and sometimes isnt found but the original is fine. Battery in hers is new and voltage is good. Alasdair

Had a failed MAF sensor on an old volvo that stopped engine from revving above 1100rpm. Anymore rpm it stalled. Was a long journey home in 1st and 2nd gear. Alasdair

Think there is a gasket/rubber seal behind oil filter housing. May well be coming from there or perhaps rocker cover. Alasdair

Maybe an aftermarket one. Think from memory it has a rubber thin seal not a crush washer. Looked from memory as above. Not on a skoda but my Seat was weeping oil and the seal had failed. I got a proper VW/Skoda one with crush washer and used a smear of hylomar blue just to make sure and it cured it.

Not sure but reckon you could pick one up fairly cheap on ebay. If its the one near the wing mirror have seen them for around £15-£20. Chances are there is a part number on the one in your car. Alasdair

If EML light is on there will be a fault code or codes stored. I would get it scanned. It could be as simple as a bad o2/lamda sensor or maf sensor. Either one or both can cause excess soot and quickly block DPF causing multiple regens. Alasdair

Had it on on my Octavia with no blown bulbs. Had a bit of corosion on number plate lights and when cleaned up light went off. Alasdair

Mine regenerates DPF without light on and is around 1000rpm at idle. If the DPF and EML light are on it could be clogged dpf but it may be a sensor thats failing and car has gone into limp mode. I would perhaps get it scanned for fault codes to see if it narrows it down. Alasdair

Try https://www.lllparts.co.uk/ Go to original manufacturers diagrams and put in your vin. It should give you the oem part numbers for your car. You may have to look up PR codes on sticker in boot to confirm correct ones. Alasdair

bought my son mk1 55 plate 1.2htp to learn to drive in. Had only 60k on clock and had been well looked after with minimal rust etc. He still has it and apart from a clutch exhaust flexi and a couple of ball joints been very good. Cost £1600 which was above book price but low mileage and no rust thought it was worth it. Had 1 owner for years and then the previous owner before him. The one your looking at £2700 I agree its a bit overpriced but MOT history seems fair with no major problems. Check that what it failed on have actually been repaired properly and not just covered up etc. It may need new suspension bushes etc due to its age and historical tyre wear. Alasdair

Reckon as the filter is high up in engine you could replace without draining new oil. As for the sensor not sure but if your quick you shouldnt loose to much if its leaking when removed. Alasdair

My old 1.9tdi the filter and top came out no bother. My newer 12 plate 1.6tdi is a pain in the a?? you have to remove wiring and a stainless pipe to get the filter out. Thats progress for you Alasdair

Oil filter on my 1.6tdi octavia CAYC is a cartridge type and location is at front of engine. There should be a round plastic domed housing with a large plastic moulded nut on top.

Sorry I have asked this before but can't find post. Need to know the torque/angle tightening for the front hub bolt to drive shaft. Remember there being a difference depending on 6 sided or 12 point but cant remember. Will be using new 12 point bolts and also tighten with wheel of ground. Was thinking of reusing original 12 point but it was so tight had to use a 3/4 inch breaker bar with a 5 foot pipe on it to get it to move so reckon its been stretched a fair bit. Alasdair

Many thanks. Mine have only the three colours on one which match the info you posted and nothing on the broken one plus broken one seems slightly thinner coils so replacing both plus new shocks and top mounts as they look original and pretty past it cars at 130k. Had to get them from local motorfactors at slightly more cost but car failed MOT and need it back on road asap. Reckon the offfside one is a cheaper aftermarket one thats been fitted at some time. Had same with rear. Broke one a few months ago and when replacing both one on the rear was slightly shorter than the other. I always replace in pairs. Many thanks again Alasdair

If that doesn't help it may be possible to disable alarm. Folks had a mk1 fabia 1.9tdi estate that the alarm kept going off. Local garage disabled it as the car was about the same age as yours and we thought no one would bother stealing it. Not sure what they did exactly but it worked. Alasdair

Key fob battery has had it should be 3.2 - 3.3 volts. At 2.9 it is needing changed. Worth trying as they arent that expensive. Alasdair

Had read that battery needs coded if start stop. All my octavias and fabia arent so dont need coding. If the battery charging light is on it may be the small exciter wire that goes to alternator thats broken Check the voltage accross battery when car is running. It should read 13.5-14.5v if its charging. Alasdair

Hi wonder if anyone on here can confirm I have the right part number for front springs. PR code in boot is 2UA/L07 and from LLLparts diagrams I get 1K0411105AQ. No paint marks on broken one plus looks like 1x pink,1xorange,1xblue on good one. LLL parts say also marked with 1 x grey and 4x blue which I don't have unless they mean pink,orange,blue or grey blue blue blue blue? Again seems to be quite a few to choose from. Any help welcome Alasdair

Thanks Pete. Would have to be the offside thats broken. Wonder if I could compress it enough on car to remove it. Worse case scenario is will have to remove hub anyway. Will give it a go. Just really dont want to have to remove hub etc as I am limited for time as need car. Reckon I can still drive it carefully as its still got a current MOT although will only be to get parts from Motor factors. MOT folks were brilliant and said it would be safe to drive as its only a small section at base thats missing and if I get pulled over say I am taking it to somewhere for repair. Intend to try and fix it tomorrow as really dont want to risk it. Going do do both as even with the broken spring offside seems slightly higher and I reckon the near side has been replaced previously but with a different/weaker one as its still painted with no corosion. Cant see any paint marks on either. Thanks again Alasdair

MOT today with a couple of advisory but also yet another broken front spring. Thats seven now in two years on my cars. Sounds a daft question but wondered if anyone has changed front shocks without removing hub. Was wondering if both wheels were off ground with car on axle stands would there be enough play to drop knuckle enough to separate and remove shocks. Alasdair

Thats exactly what happened to mine. I repaired mine by drilling a hole in plastic where the spigot broke off and put a coach bolt in place. Drilled hole just slightly smaller than square on bolt and carefully tapped it home then used araldite to secure it and used a nylock nut and washer to secure it. Was supposed to be a temporary fix but its still on the car. Cant remember how I got the broken bit out. May have used a little heat and a punch to drive it out. If removing weighted cast arm it can only go back in one position. Think there is a flat section on splined spigot. Bolt I used looks like this. Careful if ordering a new plastic bit. I got one through autodoc but it was back to front so probably for a LHD car. When setting the cables you push selector down and turn locking pin to lock it. Once cables are set turn pin so it can move up and down again. Glad it wasnt Gbox or clutch related. Alasdair

Might be the air con compressor. Is it louder in the engine bay? As for the windows it may be a broken wire in door pillar or bad switch (they can get wet if window left open). The drivers side motorised unit controls the passenger side so if it fails both tend to stop working. Breezy Pete fixed my sons for me if its the window motor unit. New switches arent that expensive. Got an aftermarket one on Amazon for less than £10 Alasdair