Alasdair1

I think the alarm system has multiple fuses. One specifcly for siren but the internal movement sensors will share one with other things and the main alarm system I believe is controlled by BCM and is an integral part of car so cant be switched off by pulling fuse. You could see if someone has VCDS and scan it as if the alarm is going off randomly when driving it should have stored a code. (Think its stores the last 5 ) Check the switch for the front bonnet. If its dirty or has a bad connection I read it can trigger alarm as well as door switches. By scanning with vcds it should help pinpoint whats setting it off. On mine the movement sensor is near the interior light and on door pillars. There should be a disable switch on drivers pillar down low near seat belt fixing. According to Ai this is how to find codes in VCDS but it is from Ai?? Read Alarm Sources: In VCDS, navigate to Select Control Module > 46-Central Conv. (or Address 09-Central Electronics). Click on Measuring Blocks (or Advanced Measuring Values). Navigate to Group 015, 018, 019, or 020. These specific groups store the Alarm Sources and the Alarm Sound Trigger logs. [1] Interpret the Code: The logged number indicates the exact sensor that tripped the alarm. If you are using VCDS or OBDeleven and get specific numbered codes for the alarm trigger source, use this breakdown to identify the culprit: [1] 1: Terminal 15 (Ignition switched on) 2: Door contact switch (Front left / Driver's door) 3: Door contact switch (Front right / Passenger's door) 4: Door contact switch (Rear left) 5: Door contact switch (Rear right) 6: Bonnet switch 7: Tailgate / Boot switch 8: Interior monitoring (Movement inside the cabin) 9: Terminal 30 (Voltage supply dropped/disconnected) 10: Inclination sensor (Car being towed or lifted) 11: Sensor for anti-theft alarm (General fault in the J393 module)

No advisory on wiper. advisory on two lower front bushes (the ones in alloy block) which I have but havent changed yet. Failed on another broken spring (front this time) God knows who put the hub bolt in last time. had to use 1" drive and 6 foot scaffolding pole to remove it. Still to do the other side but apart from that not bad at all for a 120K 14 year old car. Going to nick the wiper motor off my old 1.9tdi when I get a chance. Still got a weird wobble only when accelerating around 50mph but it comes and goes so hoping its down to worn bushes. If it doesnt then replacement drive shafts. Alasdair

From memory the bio fuel can degrade certain seals etc. pus tends to clean sludge from tank and clog filters. Same as running on veg oil. I doubt one tank would cause any harm. Have had a few cars with no bio-fuel on fuel cap which I think means bio-diesel stronger than B7 but one tank of B10 shouldnt cause any lasting harm. Alasdair

Sounds as though the master has given up as you said maybe extra pressure with new slave. At least you now have evidence that its knackered and it should be covered by waranty. Hope a new master will cure all. Alasdair

Hopefully the slave will cure the problem. Might be worth pressure bleeding system first if it hasnt already been done just in case theres air left in it somewhere . I tried doing mine manually but didnt feel right so used a pressure bleeder and after a while a couple of bubbles appeared. Alasdair

Is your clutch/brake reservoir losing fluid. If it is its a leak if not sounds like seals on either have failed and letting fluid past them. Either way it should be covered by warranty as there's a problem with clutch. Check the level and top up to max and monitor it. Sorry havent heard of webinar but someone on will hopefully know. I used Sachs master and slave and they werent expensive. Think it was around £80 for both. Alasdair

No I managed to do the slave in my sons fabia mk1 without removing Gbox. Had to remove battery and compartment and think gear linkage to get access. Main problem with one person is holding slave in place to get bolts in as it tends to spring out. If you have problems with clutch and fluid is leaking it could be master or slave. If the slave leaks the actuator on an external one is internal so you dont notice any fluid. Check bottom of bell housing. Theres normally a small gap. If theres fluid there then its the slave leaking. The seals can also go and allow fluid past them but not leak on either. Just done the master on my Octavia. No signs of leaking but pedal went to floor and it was collecting on the undertray. Its more difficult to get to. Its one of those jobs you can see it but cant reach it!! especially with hands like mine. Alasdair

Not sure if the climatronic fan has a resistor pack. If its failed it may be the cause. Alasdair

Had a quick google and the one that came up looks external. You should be able to just see it in car under gear linkage/battery etc If its external will look like above or similar Alasdair

Just finished rewiring my old tractor. Used classic PVC old school cable and went for higher current capacity than needed . Lots of fine strands and very flexible. 17amp standard pvc is 2mmsq copper and 16.5amp thin wall is 1mmsq copper so half the thickness of copper. Alasdair

If it happened after headlight removal I would remove headlight again and check that all wiring is secure/no corosion/no breaks. It could also be coincidence and the motor in headlight has failed. Perhaps a scan with vcds would ping up a code or point to any underlying problems. Alasdair

Car wiring is getting thinner and thinner. They get away with thinner wire and harder thinner insulation that can cope with higher current so I reckon not so flexible and more prone to breaks. Old friend used to fit Taxi meters and some of the wiring he had to deal with was more like threads rather than cable. I suppose its a cost thing but would happily pay extra for decent cable. Alasdair

Found this on LLL parts. Its the rear wiring harness for abs rear abs sensors. It looks like the cable joins and runs as a single cable with a connector and then to the front. Cant seem to paste picture but link might work. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/6q0927904f/wiring-harness-for-speed-sensor-6q0927904f Went for a 2010 fabia although should be able to narrow it down by inputing VIN. Alasdair

If moving the wiring changes any reading it points to either a break or a bad connection somewhere. I would first clean any plugs/sockets and make sure they are secure and making good contact. If it still changes when moving wiring I would suspect a break in a wire somewhere. Alasdair

If theres a join I would think its under rear seats or perhaps under plastic sill guard at base of doors. Best option would be to find where they come into car and trace towards front. Reckon the rear section if joined will be shorter and easier to find/replace/repair. Just noticed though that theres no signal from either and the original post said it looked like they travel seperately so unless they meet and use one connector at some point cant see why both have gone at the same time unless they share an earth/common cable. Alasdair

Looking at the diagram G44 and G46 have round sections in cable which I assumed was a join. The front dont so I assume go direct. Alasdair

Well done for getting a CRV to the 20 year mark. They were well built cars without so much electronics that modern ones have. Never had a Superb but have had 3 octavias but love the older ones. At moment have a 12 plate 1.6tdi but would change back to the 1.9tdi tomorrow. The 1.6tdi has never given me any real problems but I still dont have the same confidence in it as I did with the more basic 1.9tdi plus the more modern the car the less I can do mechanics wise. As said next one will be petrol either 1.8 or 2.0 tsi. Alasdair

I usually go for the larger engines in cars as I do a bit of towing plus I believe (may be wrong) they dont have to work so hard as the smaller ones to get a car of the superb size and weight going. As previously said the 2.0 tsi is a well proven engine and as long as it has a very good service history its the one I would go for. All my cars have been diesel for years but not doing the mileage anymore and dpf is constantly regen. I miss the 1.9tdi pd with no dpf. Next one will be either the 1.8 or 2.0tsi Alasdair

From memory on my sons MK1 it goes from wheel sensor along rear beam and into car under rear seats then along I think under plastic door base trims into front then through bulk head to ABS unit. I have a feeling there are connections under plastic base/carpet trim at rear doors. Alasdair

Thats a lot of short circuits etc. Might be worth checking if the oil pressure regulator shares an earth with any or all of the others. Alasdair

Did you try 12v accross bulb or use meter. Have had bulbs blow and short out so meter reads ok. Alasdair

Before removing head maybe a compression test. If its down on one or two cylinders then somewhere to start looking. Timing belt on the 1.9tdi wasnt difficult including water pump replacement at same time.(not sure re wpump on 2.0tdi) Got a cheap locking tool set off amazon plus you will probably need triple square spline set. Got this one off amazon for £15 and so far havent broken any. Alasdair

Not sure on the Kodiak but on my Octavia there are two antennas. FM one on roof and DAB one in rear side window. These connectors I think need pushing in and at the same time release tab. and then pull out. Always have trouble with them. Alasdair

Try another key if you have one. It may be that the reader in ignition isnt picking up key or key transponder has failed. You can also try disconnecting battery (make sure its good and charged fully) and leaving for a while reconnect and try again in case its had a blip. Would probably be advised to get it scanned with vcds in case it pings something up and narrows it down for you. If its the imobilser kicking in which it sounds like from your description then it could be key,key reader,cluster etc. Alasdair

Sons was pretty loud although we also just assumed it was normal. Only when I fixed the exhaust we noticed a bad wheel bearing. Sound was covering it perfectly. Alasdair