Alasdair1

Check the wiring back from the crank/cam sensors including connectors for moisture/corosion. Think there should be 5v at sensors with ignition on. Read that near engine lifting eye and under battery tray are most common places or damage. Alasdair

Check they coded/cloned the new ECU/BCM and check fuses/relays for wipers/indicators etc. As said get a VCDS full scan done. It may ping something up that explains the fault. Modern cars are a nightmare. I spent about two hours working out why my wipers werent working on a Seat altea and finally discovered they are disabled with bonnet open for some weird reason. Alasdair

Looks better than new. Mine was the same although I admit I just oiled and moved it till everything was moving freely then added some copper grease as I had a tin handy. Nice tidy job Alasdair

I meant the control unit in the door thats part of window motor. If its from a different car it may not be able to communicate with new BCM. I assume the BCM was coded to match ECU/clocks etc. Reckon a good scan with VCDS is in order. You could spend days trying to locate a fault. Alasdair

Check gearbox oil level? and maybe recheck rear diff level as well and if you can haldex level. Were all four wheel bearings replaced? Alasdair

Read that the door has its own module/window motor that comunicates with BCM. If its from an older /newer car then it may not be able to comunicate with BCM. If you have the old one maybe swap it back. Alasdair

Had customer with VW not Skoda but theres did the same. Luckily they had left window down slightly for dog and we managed to fish their key out of car for them. In there case it was the battery in key that was failing so car assumed the key wasnt in it as it couldnt detect it. Spoke to them later on and new battery and it hasnt done it since. Alasdair

Check around ignition switch and key fob reader. It could be imobilser. If its diesel mine starts then stops immediately. Petrol if I am correct sometimes wont crank or start at all and just make a click. Meant to add check theres no imobilser symbol on dash when attempting to start. May be a car symbol with key etc. Alasdair

It might be worth checking/replacing relay for starter. Sorry not sure exactly which one but I believe its inside under dash somewhere or in engine bay fuse box. For some reason its difficult/impossibe to get a diagram of where and what each relay does. Someone on here will know the correct one and its location etc. Alasdair

Not sure if its possible but have you tried a live wire to starter solanoid direct from battery. Touch it to terminal that ignition feeds. If it turns over the fault may be ignition related. If it doesnt then its either a bad solanoid or earth. Alasdair

Good luck finding them. I would start with any near starter. Alasdair

Maybe a new ignition switch. Did find this on here. It turns out its got 14. I think theres another to gearbox etc as well. Alasdair

If it has only done 7k but is 3 year old then I would reckon even with longlife oil it should have been changed at 2 years max. If it was perhaps they didnt fill it correctly. I agree with Pete , top up to max an monitor it carefully. If it took a litre to reach min mark its been running with 3/4 of the correct volume of oil or less. If it hasnt been changed since new then I would get an oil an filter change done ASAP and take it from there. Not sure if the warranty will still be valid if it hasnt been serviced especially an oil change. Alasdair

Could be linked to imobilser/ignition/steering angle sensor but would have thought car would start and you would have airbag warning and probably a few others etc. Check that all the connectors to ignition/steering wheel etc are connected properly as you may have dislodged something. Also check for blown fuses as well. Alasdair

Sounds exactly like my old school garage (sadly retired). Used to pop in and they would put car on ramp and have a look. Very quick and exellent service. They even let me borrow a car when they couldnt get a part same day for no charge. (it was a 20 year old nissan micra but got me home). Alasdair

I still do mine every 50k or 5years. Mine are old cars plus the length of interval that skoda group are stating I think is asking for trouble. Belt may be ok but with my diesels to expect a water pump and tensioner/idler pulley to last 130k is asking a lot. Have had one that the tensioner was failing and belt was badly worn down one side at 60k Wonder if its all vw group or just skoda. As you bought from skoda dealer but have had it serviced via non dealer it may cause problems. I am sure there is a lot of very small print involved. Still worth taking it up with skoda though. Good luck.

That seems fair plus £60/hr is very good these days. Seems like a decent garage who now what they aare doing and also quick service too. Hard to find these days. Alasdair

I know that feeling especially when you only have one car. Pressure on to get it right and as you say down to you if it doesnt. Only had to hire one car in the last 20 years when it went wrong and yes it was down to me. Alasdair

Slave is possible and fairly easy to access. (was on the fabia and looks the same on the Mk2 1.9tdi. You have to remove battery/battery tray and I think for easier access the gearbox selector and cables etc. two bolts and it pulls out. Getting it back in again is tricky by yourself a you need to compress plunger spring and get bolts in at same time. Bleed nipple is on the slave. Plastic and I found it needed to be unscrewed a fair bit for bleeding. I used a pressure bleeding kit as I was by myself. As said £227 I think is fair plus lying under a car in this weather!! and if it goes wrong no car. Dont know what a dealer would charge you. Think my local one is over £100 per hour plus vat for labour alone. Skoda parts.com do a genuine skoda master and its around £140 Alasdair

I got a sachs master from amazon as no one else locally had any and did it myself. Think it was around £45-00 and that was cheap but the cost of labour plus vat and any extras soon mount up. Its fairly straight forward but a pain to do as you have to remove pedals etc and its also one of those jobs you can see it but getting to it without a ramp isnt easy. I reckon say two hours labour plus parts and vat £227 is a fair price. Alasdair

Had a quick look and difficult to see due to battery box but looks external. The plunger/rubber gaitor on the slave is internal so if leaking wont be noticed but looks like it can be replaced without Gbox removal. Check bottom of bell housing/gearbox join for signs of fluid. Sons fabia is the same. His was leaking into bell housing but I replaced it without removing Gbox. Keep an eye on your brake/clutch fluid. It may be that fluid is getting past the seals in either slave/master but not actually leaking yet. If your fluid is dropping then theres a leak somewhere. Alasdair

Mine went and it was the master. Used to do it randomly. Couldnt see any leaks but they were ending up on engine undertray. When you replace it watch for the small rubber grommets/seas. They dont generally come with new master and can get left in old one. Have a 58 plate estate (same engine) sitting for spares so will check the slave and see if its external/internal for you. Alasdair

I read with vcds it can tell what degree the chain has stretched. Ai says VCDS checks a timing chain by reading the "Camshaft Adaptation Intake Bank 1" value in the engine control module to measure chain stretch in degrees of crankshaft rotation. For TSI engines, this is usually found in Measuring Block 93 (or Advanced Measuring Values), where a value approaching -5° or more indicates significant stretching requiring service A bit above my tech but maybe a VAG specialist or someone near you with vcds could scan it or you. Alasdair

Once you get a larger oil cooler/rad etc it may be adviseable to change oils as running at 140C I reckon will degrade it pretty quickly. Alasdair

You could at a last resort try some kseal or steel head if you think it may be a cracked head. Kept my old toyota lucida going for another year and a half before it had catastrophic head failure due to cracks between the valves and didnt notice it overheating as sun was really low so couldnt see dash. It was a nightmare to change head as its mid engine under front seats. Not bad once you remove just about everything to get to it. Must have been over 150 nuts and bolts plus auxiliary drive shaft turbo pipes and more. Alasdair