Alasdair1

Not sure but think there may be one in engine bay fuse box thats for compressor as well as perhaps a relay but worth checking them anyway as they may have blown if the compressor is working harder. Chances are the AC has shut down due to low pressure in system. Alasdair

Sounds like an airlock somewhere but it could be a number of things or a combination. The coolant warning, if the coolant level is ok and it still persists try scraping the two prongs in the expansion tank. At the same time check that there is no silicone bag in there as they can burst and clog matrix etc. From memory the tank should have Mit Silicone on it if it has. The fact that its losing coolant and the tank seems to overflow may be due to a bad waterpump letting air into system or head gasket failure which is over pressurizing system. Check for air/exhaust bubbles in expansion tank with lid of and engine running. The fact that the temp isnt reaching 90deg could be a stuck/clogged thermostat. Alasdair

I read that if the pressure drops too low it disables AC compressor. It could be needing a recharge but it could also be a faulty pressure sensor. If the recharge doesn't work then I would look at replacing sensor although not sure if you can replace sensor without another recharge. Also check any relevant fuses for AC first. Alasdair

The steering problem etc could be a bad battery especially if its been flat for too long. Normally warning lights go out when turned to full lock and also driven. A low or poor battery tends to cause all manner of faults. The radio may come out of safe mode once its been driven for a while and the squeaking could be a back plate just touching disc or as you say a slight binding from lack of use. Check the handbrake is actually releasing rear calipers as the handbrake levers on caliper have a tendency to seize and cause binding on rear. Alasdair

If it does it stationary that rules out drive shafts/cv joints. It may be the top mount that is failing. Get someone to listen to the top mount while turning wheel. Alasdair

If its black smoke its normally lack of air or too much diesel/bad injector/bad injector pattern. When was the airfilter changed last plus it might be worth getting it scanned with vcds in case there's a random fault code stored. You could try changing air filter and run some injector cleaner plus a tank of supreme diesel through it to see if it improves. Alasdair

Sorry cant hear sound. Can you describe it or make a louder recording. I would assume if it was power steering fluid it would do it turning left as well plus does it do it while stationary? Alasdair

Halfords do a loctite windscreen/mirror adhesive for around £6 plus there are a few others online. Last windscreen I saw replaced didn't have the bracket on the new screen. The windscreen replacement company (think it was autoglass glued the original back on. Think it may have been a Nissan. As said if they don't normally fail then reckon warranty should cover it as it shouldnt have failed. Alasdair

The voltage reading at terminal 30 I think is battery voltage so at 12.109V seems to be low and will probably drop further when cranking which may be affecting starting etc. I may be wrong but maybe battery is low and could do with a check/charge. Alasdair

I did have one fail once as the front one was badly coroded/loose and not held on by much. The MOT guy said he wasnt allowed to remove it himself but if I ripped it off he would pass it. Alasdair

Those symptoms point to maybe a blockage somewhere. Wonder if the cat is ok or if some of the dpf ended up in exhaust somewhere. Alasdair

Have had cars pass MOT for years without them. As long as the discs are good and brakes work it should pass. Alasdair

Think the front are replaceable without hub removal but rear require hub off. My old mk2 was the same. Horrible squealing noise and when I tried to push backplate away from disc it disentegrated. Never bothered replacing it as the other side was missing. Didnt cause me any problems without them. Was going to do it if I had to replace a bearing but bearings outlasted the car which died due to corrosion. Alasdair

Hopefully a scan will ping something up and also hopefully its a one of or minor. If there are no codes then maybe VCDS as it can pick up codes that some scanners miss. Alasdair

Still wondering why it needed a new clutch at 15000. Wonder if its been a demo or the previous owner has thrashed into the ground or slipped it constantly? which may explain why its down on power. Not sure how you check actual power output of engine. Alasdair

If you are getting a lot of failed DPF regens due to short runs it can lead to dilution with diesel in oil which will make it thinner and more susceptible to be burnt. There was a recent post of a tdi experiencing a short and very lucky run on due to oil being so thin it managed to get past seals in turbo. His oil level was high when he checked but assumed it was overfilled. I try to take my 1.6tdi out for a decent run at least once a week as its now only doing short runs. Alasdair

Had similar problem with old toyota lucida. Guy who owned it before had 225/40/18 and although looked good we hit a pot hole and blow out plus bent alloy. I went for 225/45/18 that just fitted due to the bottom of the front strut plus went for extra load as it did weigh a fair bit which was probably why the lower profile standard tyre blew out. Ride was a bit firmer but apart from that no more blow outs. Alasdair

My cars get really bad but I use a big industrial wet/dry vacuum got from Lidl which gets the bulk of the debris. The cars get used for work plus dogs etc. For carpets that are normally full of sand/dirt I use an air compressor and blast anything out onto a damp microfibre cloth the hoover doesnt pick up. Same as dust in seats and dash etc. Have a long narrow attachment for hoover which is brilliant for retrieving pens pound coins etc that get stuck in seat runners and awkward places. Make a fortune when I empty it. Generally gets done normally before MOT. Alasdair

May be the aftermarket oil seperator as it hasnt a diaphram it may be allowing engine to create to much vaccuum causing the squeal. Reckon your on the right track with PCV system. Alasdair

It could be carboned up veins in turbo that is causing a blip which will put into temporary limp mode especially when accelerating then clear once restarted or failing/clogged boost pressure sensor/vacuum leak/N75 valve. They can both cause I think called temporary/soft codes that some scanners don't pick up. Had similar in my old octy. Stopped and started again and back to normal. No EML on each time but eventually got a code plus EML that it was over boosting. Turned out to be sticking actuator in my case. Reckon a scan with vcds is required as it should pick up any codes that other scanners miss. Alasdair

Get the battery voltage checked plus make sure terminals are secure and clean plus earths. Make sure battery is secure as well. Had problem with old skoda that the mechanic who was servicing it forgot to tighten battery securing clamp and one terminal so when going into tight corners battery was moving and causing bad connection. Alasdair

Glad you got it sorted. Was meaning to post the above but been up to my eyes today fixing the steering on my daughters bambi mini campervan (bedford rascal van based) Old school vehicle with castleated nuts and split pins that were seized solid. Managed to get it fixed so happy daughter. Well done and hope it stays that way Alasdair.

Thats different to the one I was meaning. On my sons 1.2htp theres a sensor on gearbox rear top near steering rack. I assumed it was speed sensor but may be wrong. Alasdair

Think its on rear of gearbox/bell housing on top . Easiest to get to from under car. Could be a wiring issue to it unless yours is an auto?? Alasdair

Not entirely sure but think if its a manual petrol it has solid but if it has dsg Gbox or diesel then DMF. Someone on here will know for sure. Alasdair