Alasdair1

I doubt its the timing chain/tensioner after less than two years unless it was a cheapo one that was fitted or wasnt fitted correctly. Still shouldnt rule it out though. Next time it happens try and locate roughly where its coming from. I use a length of hose with one end to ear and move other end around engine bay till the noise gets louder. It might be a bad fuel injector if your mpg is dropped. Difficult to say . Alasdair

Might be worth changing cam sensor first but it does look like a timing issue. I wouldnt be driving too much if at all until its checked. Last thing you want is for it to jump a few teeth. I assume they used the correct oil last service. Alasdair

Cant see unplugging it causing any harm. Doesnt look to bad a job to replace either. Alasdair

When was the oil changed last and is it at the correct level. Think that engine has variable valve timing and I read that low/poor engine oil can cause oil control solanoid not to work properly. Alasdair

Pretty sure that will be the aux pump. I was told it was to boost temp in cabin while cars warming up which I assume would feed heater matrix. It may be that thats not working properly or there is still air in system/matrix which may cause an airlock somewhere and over pressure? Worth a look. Alasdair

Had same on old auto volvo. There was an extra oil cooler available but not fitted as it was aftermarket towbar. You may be able to upgrade the oil cooler fitted. Have seen some that state number of cooling ribs etc. Alasdair

Does yours have an auxiliary water pump? Its a long shot but if it has it may be leaking or forcing air into system. I think it comes on when cold to boost heating etc. Have had a couple of waterpumps over the years that allowed air in but werent leaking coolant at the time. Alasdair

If its losing a small amount of coolant maybe oil cooler thats leaking slightly. Have you any emulsified oil on cap? Another thought would be small crack in cylinder head thats opening slightly when hot and closing when cold but I would expect to see some white smoke unless its very small. It may have been a head seal rather than rad weld. Its odd that its holding pressure though but if the crack is sealing itself when cooling down might explain it. Alasdair

If you havent already remove cluster and clean connections/make sure its seated properly. Had same on my octavia. Weird warning lights but no codes. DPF light (no dpf) Blown bulb but all ok. Few others that were very dim including EML plus foglight symbol on all the time when lights on but fog lights off. Cleaned cluster connection and refitted and it was spot on. Reckon it either came loose or got some dampness into connector. Remember to disconnect battery before removing cluster. Could also be a bad earth somewhere thats causing low voltage?Check the cluster for dry solder joints or moisture damage. Alasdair

If theres any corosion on fuses it can cause problems. They can be intermittent as if its a bad connection can heat up which can either cure problem or make it worse. Hopefully a decent battery and fuse clean up/change will help. As said check voltage again at blower connection now battery is charged. Alasdair

Try checking voltage at blower supply again and use a known good earth like bare chassis etc. It might be a bad earth to fan or a short somewhere. Check fuses are all good and secure/making good contact and no corosion. You read 11.6v but I think that may be low. If its a bad connection then that could drop when fan is operating due to resistance. I would assume it should be nearer 12-14v unless your car battery is low. Alasdair

Meant to add check the voltage on your battery first. A low battery can cause all manner of faults. Just realised you have it on charge. Worth checking voltage anyway. Alasdair

My mk2 1.9tdi used to do the same. It was the wastegate that was sticking and causing overboost. I lubricated mine and manually operated until it was smooth and it hasnt done it again since. When it did happen if I turned engine off and back on again it reset and warning light disappeared until next time. It used to happen very randomly. Alasdair

Reckon your first thing would be to inspect sparkplugs and probably replace. If the gap is too large or are dirty etc you may not be getting a proper spark/combustion at lower revs plus bad plugs can damage coil plugs. As for brands I use NGK on all my vehicles etc. Never had a problem with them. Avoid cheap or unknown makes especially champion. Had a quick google and think the oem is 03F905600A (skodaparts.com) NGK cross ref came up with this Not sure if you need a sparkplug boot removal tool on yours. Sons mk1 fabia needs one to avoid damaging leads. Alasdair

I have a couple of old cars waiting for either repair or spares. I normally keep batteries charged in them for moving them about but if I forget and they get low the alarms start going off. On one the siren goes off but on the other its just flashing lights. either the siren has failed or its been disabled some how. There may be a way to cut siren until you get it fixed. Found battery replacement on here as long as the circuit board isnt damaged. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/458298-alarm-siren-battery-replacement/

Years ago jobs were a lot simpler and normally involved just nuts and bolts and a bit of knowledge/big hammer. These days its a nightmare to work on any modern car. Glad you got it sorted. Alasdair

With oil in coolant and bubbles hopefully its easy to spot where its gone. As said get head checked for cracks in case its leaking there. Alasdair

Glad you got it sorted. That looks a lot better. Remember to write that part number down somewhere for future ref. Alasdair

Reckon so. Cant think of anywhere else that the oil would be coming from especially with the bubbles in coolant in your video. Hopefully the head is good and a new gasket will solve the problem. Might be worth getting head checked for cracks if your removing it. Alasdair

On my sons MK1 its just a case of undoing the torx screws (cant remember how many but there are a few) then it may need a bit of bending/wiggling and it should come out. If yours has an undertray it may be attached to it as well. Keep an eye for any screws you may have missed. Some will go into plastic grommets in body but the lower ones may have spring clips they screw into. They can get dislodged so make sure they are all back in the right positions before refitting. Alasdair

Is that oil or debris? If its oil then reckon its the HG. If its debris then it may be coming from intercooler. Alasdair

Could be the headlights have failed and to keep cost down they botched something up or perhaps the switch failed and they again botched a bypass. Not sure how to check headlight units without buying new bulbs and possibly ballast. I would first make sure the headlight high/low beam switch is good an then take it from there. Alasdair

Might be worth checking new matrix as the coolant loss was noticeable after change if you can in case its leaking from connections. If its doing it when hot then any coolant may be evaporated before you notice any leaks. at 500ml per two weeks its around 35ml per day. Alasdair

Could it be a timing/ignition issue caused by eratic cam sensor or similar. If it was belt/chain slightly out it would be there all the time but if a sensor is sending bad signals some of the time it may explain poor mpg. I have had a failing cam sensor that doesnt always ping up a code until it went completly. Alasdair

Check that any related fuses are secure and not loose/coroded. Might be worth removing cluster and checking over for dry solder joints and if its seated properly. Remember to disconnect battery before removing cluster. Had problems with mine and it had come loose/bad connection at rear. It might also be worth getting it scanned with vcds to see if anything pings up. Sounds like a poor connection somewhere. Alasdair