Alasdair1

May be a worn release bearing. When the clutch is pressed it will put pressure on bearing which may make sound disappear. Reckon clutch at 107k the bearing will have been well used and clutch fairly worn. As far as I know the only way to check is Gbox out. If your doing a new clutch replace slave cylinder at the same time. Alasdair

Could be a microswitch in door lock or maybe broken wire at door pillar. Does the door open symbol on dash come on? Alasdair

Might be worth checking wiring from pump backwards. It could be a corroded connector/earth somewhere that's failing when getting hot or broken wire. At least you have ruled out socket. Alasdair

Try we buy any car etc. There not to know gearbox is failing? Stick in your reg and see what they will give you. Auctions are a bit of a lottery as it depends if two or more people are interested but if you have one fairly local maybe worth a shot. Check what commision they ask and if theres VAT involved. Alasdair

Might be worth getting a scan done. I assume if steering fails it will generate a code. The pump is electric so maybe its failing/overheating and cutting out or the steering fluid is past it/low and the pump is having to work a lot harder? Alasdair

Yep after looking again reckon its too much for just condensation as Warrior193 said and as your losing coolant and no drips/signs of coolant after pressure test I am afraid the coolant must be going somewhere internal. Dont think you have an oil cooler so probably HG. I would double check for leaks again just in case its not obvious including heater matrix. Alasdair

The cap does look a bit worse than just condensation but it may be normal if its only doing very short runs and from the amount of coolant your losing I would expect a lot more emusification if HG had gone. Hopefully you will see some drips by tomorrow. Alasdair

That's I think if you leave battery in situ still connected to car. They are referring to where the battery is earthed to chassis although on my skoda its under battery tray so I use any bare metal for -ve. Same as when jumping a car. Something to do with sparks and flammable gas. I normally just disconnect +ve and -ve on battery and connect direct to battery. Alasdair

Have you cleared codes manually. Think sometimes it requires manual removal of code when new gplug/sensor is fitted. It could also be a wiring fault from sensor and I think when fitting the new one with pressure sensor it needs ecu/calibration. Alasdair

It could be a faulty CCM. I believe it locks and unlocks doors plus windows etc but if failing can get confused. I read they are prone to corosion due to water ingress. A scan should pick up any faults. Alasdair

It might be a failing door lock actuator thats confusing system. Might be worth scanning it with vcds. It may point to a problem with one of the rear doors or boot lock actuator. On my octavia the drivers door opens with fob but requires a second press to unlock front passenger door, rear doors and boot. There is also a button on fob for boot only. Its a pain and still havent worked out how to make whole car open with one press. I assume yours is different like my sons mk1 fabia with only lock and unlock on fob. Alasdair

The oil in carpark could be yours and as said hope there's oil left in it. Worth getting oil level checked as if there's none left the leak will stop. Alasdair

Hope theres still oil in it? If its leaking at a plate it may be possible to remove and seal up again. Not sure if its a gasket or special sealant. Had an old toyota import that sump and Gbox were sealed with special grey silicone. Dealers were very expensive but I used Loctite SI5699 Been on for years and no leaks.

Same on the MK1 1.9tdi my folks had. Tried once to clean rusty front discs for MOT by driving with brake on and car immediately lost power and loads of warning lights on. Hope it works. Alasdair

If you know someone or have VCDS might be worth a scan. VCDS sometimes pings up codes that other readers including garage ones miss before changing TB Alasdair

If the gearbox isnt noisy and gear selections are good and positive I would see if the oil leak can be fixed. It may be as simple as just a gasket or seal unless the box has to be dismantled to fit gasket. I would run it and see if its repairable and at the same time start searching for second hand box just in case. Came accross Trent breakers who seem to have a few Gbox plus offer warranty but not sure how long https://www.trents.co.uk/manufacturer/skoda/skoda-octavia#/ Alasdair

Another thought may be if the car has a coolant valve that opens when blower is on. It may be leaking. Alasdair

Did you recalibrate throttle body after cleaning? and check for any vacuum leaks. Sons MK1 used to idle between 1100 and 1300rpm due to few splits in brake servo hose. Alasdair

Maybe broken wires in passenger door gaiter and also in tailgate gaiter? Alasdair.

Chances are the auto windows wont work either. Put fully down and hold for 5-10secs then fully up and hold for 5-10secs. Alasdair

May not be blocked matrix but air lock (hopefully) or exhaust gases if the HG has gone . If its the HG it will pressurise cooling system and also cause air/gas lock normally in heater matrix which would explain heaters not being very hot. Check the reservoir for bubbles and maybe a HG test plus look for white smoke at exhaust. Alasdair

If its not original then it wont automatically do it as I think radio checks vin on car and if it matches switches on. If you do get it to work write the code on a sticker and stick in glovebox for future use. Might be worth connecting radio cable just in case its needed. That I think is a Skoda Audience MP3 car radio which is earlier than the Swing model. Alasdair

Hopefully its a one of and glad the warranty covered it. Weird how older cars like mine seem to get to 100k before wheel bearing etc goes but a new part doesnt last nearly as long. Reckon your right with older cars being better built and parts better quality. My old garage I used to use said that if they have had to use heat on wheel hubs to remove bolt its guaranteed that that bearing will be next to fail. They were spot on as they had changed front broken spring on my old Octavia and 3 months later bearing failed. They only used heat as they couldn't move bolt even with a 5 foot bar and were worried it would snap. Alasdair

Black smoke and smell of petrol is either too much fuel or not enough air. I would get it scanned as previously said to help hopefully pinpoint problem. It could be quite a few things. If the air filter is old/dirty I would start by changing it first. It could also be bad MAF,O2 sensor, Bad fuel injector or failing ignition causing misfire and probably a few more hence why its better to get it scanned for codes. Alasdair

On my old octy it was either the fastforward/scan right button or the Menu. Sorry cant exactly remember. If its the original to car it should do it by itself although sometimes radio needs to be switched on and car driven for a while. Alasdair