Alasdair1

Meant to add check the voltage on your battery first. A low battery can cause all manner of faults. Just realised you have it on charge. Worth checking voltage anyway. Alasdair

My mk2 1.9tdi used to do the same. It was the wastegate that was sticking and causing overboost. I lubricated mine and manually operated until it was smooth and it hasnt done it again since. When it did happen if I turned engine off and back on again it reset and warning light disappeared until next time. It used to happen very randomly. Alasdair

Reckon your first thing would be to inspect sparkplugs and probably replace. If the gap is too large or are dirty etc you may not be getting a proper spark/combustion at lower revs plus bad plugs can damage coil plugs. As for brands I use NGK on all my vehicles etc. Never had a problem with them. Avoid cheap or unknown makes especially champion. Had a quick google and think the oem is 03F905600A (skodaparts.com) NGK cross ref came up with this Not sure if you need a sparkplug boot removal tool on yours. Sons mk1 fabia needs one to avoid damaging leads. Alasdair

I have a couple of old cars waiting for either repair or spares. I normally keep batteries charged in them for moving them about but if I forget and they get low the alarms start going off. On one the siren goes off but on the other its just flashing lights. either the siren has failed or its been disabled some how. There may be a way to cut siren until you get it fixed. Found battery replacement on here as long as the circuit board isnt damaged. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/458298-alarm-siren-battery-replacement/

Years ago jobs were a lot simpler and normally involved just nuts and bolts and a bit of knowledge/big hammer. These days its a nightmare to work on any modern car. Glad you got it sorted. Alasdair

With oil in coolant and bubbles hopefully its easy to spot where its gone. As said get head checked for cracks in case its leaking there. Alasdair

Glad you got it sorted. That looks a lot better. Remember to write that part number down somewhere for future ref. Alasdair

Reckon so. Cant think of anywhere else that the oil would be coming from especially with the bubbles in coolant in your video. Hopefully the head is good and a new gasket will solve the problem. Might be worth getting head checked for cracks if your removing it. Alasdair

On my sons MK1 its just a case of undoing the torx screws (cant remember how many but there are a few) then it may need a bit of bending/wiggling and it should come out. If yours has an undertray it may be attached to it as well. Keep an eye for any screws you may have missed. Some will go into plastic grommets in body but the lower ones may have spring clips they screw into. They can get dislodged so make sure they are all back in the right positions before refitting. Alasdair

Is that oil or debris? If its oil then reckon its the HG. If its debris then it may be coming from intercooler. Alasdair

Could be the headlights have failed and to keep cost down they botched something up or perhaps the switch failed and they again botched a bypass. Not sure how to check headlight units without buying new bulbs and possibly ballast. I would first make sure the headlight high/low beam switch is good an then take it from there. Alasdair

Might be worth checking new matrix as the coolant loss was noticeable after change if you can in case its leaking from connections. If its doing it when hot then any coolant may be evaporated before you notice any leaks. at 500ml per two weeks its around 35ml per day. Alasdair

Could it be a timing/ignition issue caused by eratic cam sensor or similar. If it was belt/chain slightly out it would be there all the time but if a sensor is sending bad signals some of the time it may explain poor mpg. I have had a failing cam sensor that doesnt always ping up a code until it went completly. Alasdair

Check that any related fuses are secure and not loose/coroded. Might be worth removing cluster and checking over for dry solder joints and if its seated properly. Remember to disconnect battery before removing cluster. Had problems with mine and it had come loose/bad connection at rear. It might also be worth getting it scanned with vcds to see if anything pings up. Sounds like a poor connection somewhere. Alasdair

Thats an odd one. Check the battery and once started check the voltage coming from alternator. It may be theres enough to start car but alternator is weak/not charging. Alasdair

6 year old is probably about right for a battery to be a bit weak. Funny how you can have one in the car for 10 years from new then need to replace it every 5-6years. Maybe batteries arent what they used to be. I seem to be on a bit of a run of new ones after the cold spell. Had to replace 3 in different cars in the last month plus reckon I need a new one for tractor and forklift. Expensive business vehicles! Have a fair collection of old ones now. Just waiting for scrap prices to rise a bit Alasdair

I would fill tank to brim and then run till half full. Fill again take note of amount of fuel and work out mpg manually to check actual mpg. It may be a software issue etc and the cars displaying less mpg than it should. Alasdair

Glad it was that simple. Red oil light is never good. I had similar problems and yes I to thought it was oil leel. warning symbol does look like a dipstick in our defense. Rushed into my local garage panicking and they pointed out it was coolant but level was fine so they said probably the probes in tank. If it happens again it could be the probes in the coolant tank that need cleaned. I gave mine a scrape with a long screwdriver and it hasnt happend again. Alasdair

I take it its an orange/yellow warning light not red? If its red its oil pressure. I would change sensor/check wiring etc and see if it cures it. Chances are it may be the original so at 300k its not owing anybody anything. Alasdair

If theres an expansion pipe from tank put a plastic bottle on end and run car. If theres any coolant coming out you will collect it and see how much and if your losing it from there. Alasdair

Check behind/near battery box. If I remember there is a large grommet feeding into car that comes in above passenger footwell. I ran a trailer relay cable through there on my old one. I pushed a length of rigid steel wire through the grommet and pulled cable back. Alasdair

If theres no leaks or signs of missing oil it may be as said not been filled properly. I would top it up an monitor it regularly for a while and see if it drops. Mention it to garage who did service as well as if it doesnt drop once topped up they owe you some oil. As theres still oil on stick the amount will be less than 4.3l Check how much it takes to top it up. If it was burning oil would cause a lot of smoke. Only other place it may be if its leaking is intercooler although reckon you would still have smoke etc. Alasdair

If your still trying you might be able to get a self tapping screw into the old bit and use it for removal. Alasdair

It might be clutch fluid thats poor when warm or if the clutch is original at 160k maybe getting past it or perhaps slave/master not disengaging clutch fully when warm. As pointed out start with gear linkages and make sure selector parts on top of Gbox arent stiff or have too much play. Check the cast metal weight is secure on its spindle. Son in laws vw caddy haad worn out and was loose causing dodgy gear changes. Alasdair

My 12 plate 1.6tdi has it. Thought I had done something major when I serviced it as it wouldnt go over 2800rpm. Fine when driving. Not sure why it has it though. Alasdair