Alasdair1

I think your correct. I assumed the unit that was left on van that supplies power to rear and also drivers side wheel was diff but I think its the bevel drive unit and as you said the diff is in the gearbox itself Still to get van in shed. Alasdair

Mechanic suggested to remove gearbox. Son in law said yes as he at that time trusted mechanic but also mentioned to mechanic it could be a diff problem as the gearbox/clutch gave him no trouble to that point. Mechanic said maybe diff but took gearbox out anyway without checking diff. He then said that he would only replace it if he replaced clutch,flywheel etc. which in my opinion have at least 50k left. I think the mechanic was making work for himself and obviously hadnt worked on a haldex system before. As said once we get a proper look and check the Diff will get back. Appologies for the lack of continuity in info as I am getting it second and third hand and also posting on the yeti forum. I wouldn't normally but we are needing help with this one. Once I get further info on what has been done or not done I will be back. Many thanks for the info re checking diff. Think the way to go is to remove diff from car and refit to gearbox out of car and check it from there on bench and see if anything is obvious. Alasdair

Son in law serviced haldex as car was skipping and not driving well at all. Took for test drive and seemed ok and then suddenly no drive with no noise etc so assumed sudden clutch failure as its fairly high mileage. Didn't have time himself so took to mechanic who said that there was drive to rear but nothing to front so removed gearbox. Why I have no idea as he said there was drive to haldex. I personally would have checked front diff assembly/shafts etc which is still on car. Hence why he took van away from mechanic and wont be using him again!!. Had a look at gearbox this morning and selector is fine. seems to engage all gears and no play etc in input shaft. Clutch as said is 1/4 worn and DMF/release bearing all seem ok with no leaks form Gbox or clutch slave. Turned input shaft to gearbox and output shaft sockets turn so reckon gearbox is sound. Havent had a proper look at diff yet as I am up to my eyes with work as is my son in law. Hope to get a proper look in the next couple of days. Don't think he will be paying the so called mechanic either. Will post any findings as soon as I can Alasdair

Quick update. Van is here and gearbox seems fine. Differential is still on van so can't check at moment. Mechanic was reccomended to my son in law but after speaking to him reckon the mechanic hasn't got a F***ing clue!! Said he would only replace geearbox if a new clutch and flywheel fitted but theres no play in DMF and cutch disk is only 1/4 worn so Son in law said don't bother and transported van to here. Son in law going to pop in one evening this week and we will have a proper look. Mechanic said drive to rear only and suggested gearbox. After looking at it if the gearbox had gone there would be no drive to anywhere. Might be a problem with diff but not sure how it could be. The only other thing would be perhaps a broken shaft cv joint etc or something inside the diff thats broken or stripped. Will post once we get into it. At least being a 4x4 and big chunky tyres its fairly easy to get under. Many thanks so far Alasdair

I have just been told that the van is getting dropped off here so will get more info and have a look myself. Will also make sure the haldex fluid level is correct. Son in law dropped it off and had to run so wil post once I speak to him

Did point that out but mechanic must have thought gearbox/clutch was faulty and removed it. Reckon he should be looking for a new mechanic. As said hes like me and normally does it himself but just didn't have time and the car wasn't under cover so working on it was difficult. Will be seeing him later so will get him to bring gearbox here and we can have a look. Will post what I find. Alasdair

Will be speaking to him hopefully later and will get more info etc. Not sure which mechanic he is using. He normally does the work himself but didn't have time due to work. As said in other post they originally assumed the clutch/gearbox had gone hence the removal of the box. Alasdair

The drive is going to rear but not the front which I agree with you doesn't make any sense unless its a front drive shaft that has failed internaly. The rear wheel skipping was due to clogged filters etc in the Haldex. Luckily it wasn't the mechanic that serviced it. My son in law did it himself and hes pretty good and thorough. It was when they test drove the car after servicing haldex that they found no front drive and the gearbox was removed as they originally thought it was a clutch failure/gearbox failure. Will be speaking to him later on today so will get some more info. Many thanks Alasdair

Haldex seems to be working now. It was fully serviced and cleaned with new oil etc. It was skipping when driving and just wondering if thats caused damage to transfer box. I posted it on the general forum and got a diagram that shows power from gearbox via crown wheel to front diff etc. and then goes to front and rear. If theres power to the rear the gearbox I assume is still connected and supplying power to differential. As said son in law got a mechanic to take gearbox out but I havent seen it yet. Hopefully its a simple fix. Cars been off the road for a while now and he needs it for work. Will hopefully catch up with him today and get him to drain box and diff to see if theres any metal etc in there. Cant find any info on this. Its normally the rear that doesn't work due to haldex or controller. Alasdair

Sorry this is for once not Skoda related but VW caddy maxi but I believe its the same system as the Yeti. Son in law has one 2.0tdi 2011 plate and all drive is now being sent to rear wheels. Haldex unit has been fully serviced and oil changed as first thought it was the problem. Rear wheels were skipping and haldex not engaging properly. Now no drive to front wheels with all power to rear. Gearbox is currently out of vehicle. Clutch seems good with reasonable life left and drive shafts are solid. Anyone come accross this. Can't find any info on this problem. Appologies again for posting on Yeti forum but we are desperate for an answer. Mechanic thinks maybe gearbox itself but hes not sure on haldex systems and trying to find a decent second hand gearbox is not easy. Any help most appreciated. Alasdair

Is the steering fluid level ok and if so has it ever been changed? Alasdair

Hi there. Not a skoda related probem this time but hope someone on here may be able to help. Son in law has a 2011 VW caddy maxi 4motion and has problems with 4x4 drive. Haldex unit has been serviced/cleaned etc as originaly thought it was the problem as fault codes pointed to it and now seems to be working but car is only sending power to rear wheels. No drive at all to front. Checked front shafts etc and they seem fine. Has anyone come accross this before. Its a 2.0TDI 2011. Mechanic says its gearbox problem but not sure as hes not used to haldex system? Gearbox is currently out of vehicle. Clutch is still ok with a bit of life left. Any help would be welcome as its been off the road for a while and he needs it ASAP for work. He was told its the same system as the Yeti but not sure. Alasdair

Mine is a MK2 and its accessed from rear once the cluster is removed. If removing cluster make sure battery is disconnected as you can put the imobilser on . Also while its off give the connectors at rear a good clean and make sure they are properly seated when replacing cluster. Alasdair

Does the starter run slowly when hot or does it run normal speed. Not sure what you mean by not sufficient power to kick in to gear? If the starter is running slowly then I would as said check battery,(not unknown to get a bad new one) Battery terminals and earths plus connections to starter motor especially if its been removed recently. It also might be worth getting it read for fault codes to see if anything has come up Alasdair

Are they the correct springs? Also on mine there is a specific direction marked on the top mount. Cant see it affecting the strut that much though.

Sounds daft but check the exhaust for leaks. My sons failed similar reading. Exhaust had slight leak at centre coupling (not enough to hear) MOT guy sealed it up and it passed straight away. Alasdair

Make sure you look very closely at the fuses. As said my sons had a hairline crack which was so fine you couldn,t see it. We missed it the first time and assumed it was a wiring fault. Hope its a simpe fix Alasdair

You would need to get the transponder chip copied but if I remember correctly you used to be able to programme/sync a new fob by inserting into ignition and turning on but not starting. leave for 10 mins and then repeat. It worked on my old Seat but newer cars may need VCDS to assign a second hand fob to car. Still got to be cheaper than a dealer. Perhaaps someone on here near you has VCDS that could help? Had a quick google and found mobile locksmith in durham? https://mobilelocksmithdurham.co.uk/ There are a few others. I would give them a call to see if they can help. Alasdair

Maybe a bad earth thats fine when cold but poor when warm? Check the strip fuses near the battery as well. They can crack but sometimes arent noticeable. My sons ABS one cracked and was fine until car warmed up and warning lights/sound came on. It looked ok until I removed it and it split in two. Alasdair

Check your insurance. My policy will replace keys if lost. Not sure what the excess might be. Another option would be to buy a second hand fob and have new blade cut. A decent car locksmith should be able to copy the transponder. Alasdair

I think there is only a cat and exhaust system on the mk1 probably similar to the Mk2 1.9tdi pd that I have. No DPF fitted. The 1.9tdi pd has a VNT turbo that can seize up due to carbon deposits and my 1.9tdi has an EGR cooler as well. Alasdair

My 1.9tdi pd did the same. (It was actually a Seat altea 1.9tdi but same engine as my MK2 octavia) although the egr was a lot more accesible on it. I cleaned it checked and replaced but still same problem. Limp mode and egr insufficient flow code randomly. I replaced the vaccum control unit but still no joy. On the 1.9tdi pd there is an EGR cooler that can get clogged but in my case there is a vaccum valve on there as well that had failed and was sticking/not opening far enough. Replaced it and seems fine since then. It may be that you will have to remove egr valve and clean on bench but check there isn't another valve if you have the egr cooler on yours which is probably different to mine but may look similar to this part I had to replace.

Glad its fixed . You have had the usual nightmare of getting parts off an older car. At least its back together and no faults so far. Nothing better than a new shiny bit on car and problem solved. Alasdair.

Not sure on the fabia but the octavia has a metal clip system that secures headlight and enables you to pull headlight out which makes it a lot easier to get to bulb. (if its not seized like mine) If its very awkward and halfords say they can do it let them try. Worse case scenario is they cant so you wouldn't have to pay them. Its not too bad on the mk1 1.2 as theres not too much in the way. You would have thought that it would have been designed to be easy but I suppose thats modern cars. On my old Volvo 940 being RWD you could pretty near climb into engine bay to work on it. Loads of space and everything easy to get to . FWD cars seem to be a nightmare. Alasdair

When my sons failed first it would go down a bit by itself when driving. I stopped at lights and tried to lift window and push up button and it shot downwards. I had to drive home with window down in -5C with slush etc hitting me in the side of the head. Managed to get it back up eventually then grinding noise and it seized completely. As said not too bad a job once the door card and panel is removed. Hopefully its a fairl simple fix as your car is a fair bit newer than my sons. I think the repair kit was around £25-00 plus I had to buy the special skoda rivets. From memory they are 6.4mm x 10mm for the MK1 and a bigger rivet gun so not the end of the world when it comes to car parts. Alasdair