Alasdair1

On the MK2 there is a plastic linkage in engine bay near selector housing on Gbox. Looks like this It can seize up and stop you selecting I think from memory reverse and 4th/5th. Make sure its moving freely. I snapped the one on my old Seat after it was sitting for about the same time. Also check the cast metal weighted lever as well is secure and hasnt come loose. If they are all fine and not seized then maybe reset the cables. Careful if removing the white plastic clips as they get brittle with age. Alasdair

If battery/terminals is good 12.5 - 12.8volt including check earth to chassis then I would check connectors to ecu and abs unit etc to make sure they are secure plus look for visible signs of cable damage especially where its making contact with anything as it may have worn through or been pinched. Alasdair

P0600 is a comunication problem with ecu and other units/sensors. Normally an EML or ABS/ traction control light comes on but it could be as simple as a low battery or failing alternator/ poor earth etc Alasdair

Had similar problem a few years ago with volvo 940. I got new carriers but symptoms returned. I changed from whatever pads the garage had used to an OEM set and problem solved. I also found that there should have been stainless steel inserts that the pads sit into but hadnt been fitted. When I measured pads the ones that were on it were slightly smaller by around 1mm. I wouldn't bother refurbishing carriers. Lot of work unless you want them as spares. Alasdair

Might be worth getting it scanned as well. It could be a failing brake switch or if fitted dirty front radar sensor. Alasdair

May go off after a drive but I think air bag codes may have to be reset as they are a safety item so codes are probably stored permanently until cleared with scanner.

I agree with warrior its probably indirect so reckon failing abs sensor/bearing or perhaps wiring. I assume any break in signal from sensor would confuse system and put low pressure warning on. My old Seat used to randomly warn me but tyres were fine. Cause was a failing bearing and sensor. Alasdair

Not sure but as Skoda models get newer things seem to be getting a lot more complicated to do. What mileage has it done. Alasdair

Think on the newer fabias the light unit comes out on rear. Used to be an access hatch on earlier ones. There should be some plastic slotted screws that once undone the light unit pulls away from car to get access to bulbs. Alasdair

If you are going to get it done use JDK as they are cheaper plus I don't see the point of replacing haldex oil and not the filter at the same time. Most haldex problems I have heard about is the filter being clogged. I have never used engine flush at standard oil change unless head gasket etc had gone and I assume a visual inspection of the balance shaft belt is all thats needed. I still change my timing belt at around 60-70k and belt always seems fine with no real wear or perishing but I am more worried about tensioners/idle pulleys etc. Alasdair

Without it being scanned with VCDS or similar there is no way of knowing. An amber light usually means non critical fault and should be safe to drive to garage. If at any time it turns red then pull over and have it recovered to garage. If the car wont change gear or brakes down after leaving home then recovery if they cant fix it normally will either take it home or take to garage of your choice especially if either are within 12 miles. Alasdair

The usual will probably apply 1/8th turn then back and lubricate, bit of heat and then repeat. Hopefully will come out eventually. At least you managed to move it which is a good sign. Alasdair

Cant see it taking very long to check rear drums especially if handbrake works. Car on lift then 5 bolts then drum removed and if dirty a good spray of brake cleaner quick check of shoe/drum thickness (drum thickness check not needed at 20k) then drum on plus 5 bolts and back on the road x2. Reckon its another one of those multi service items that isnt really required. Suppose they have to make their money somewhere to cover the cost of their plush showroom. Alasdair

They seem a bit high. Thought it was 30/30 for normal load and 33/38 for heavy. Alasdair

Mines a late MK2 12 plate so hope its aa SMF as well. Alasdair

Thank you. For some reason it took 4.6 which was from memory the same as last time. Oil level seems fine at OP temp. Checked old oil that came out and it was 4.6 as well. Maybe something to do with filter? Alasdair

Glad your getting an oil change. One bonus is that you will have a very clean engine Same here re LEZ pain in the a**e but cant do anything about it. Lucky Inverness hasn't got one. Found on mine if your fans come on after engine switch off its a failed dpf regen so needs a good run down a dual carriage next time which wont do a diesel engine any harm. Alasdair

On the 1.6tdi I think it depends what Gbox and if its start/stop. I always assumed mine was DMF but on checking it may not be. Alasdair

As warrior pointed out the excess oil will have been diluted by diesel. I personally would be inclined to get an oil change done as you don't know how much diesel was in oil or how much oil was removed. Surprised the garage didn't say something unless it was a small amount as I cars use oil not create it. Too much diesel can eventually lead to problems and worse case scenario it gets past the turbo seals and causes run on. Having the same problem with my mk2 1.6tdi. Used to do decent mileage but not any more. On mine it makes a slight noise during regen and revs at idle are around 1200. When it happens if I can I continue driving and take it for a decent blast in 3rd/4th to keep revs up until idle becomes normal (about 20mins). On mine a failed regen puts fans on when I turn of engine. Alasdair

On my old octavia one was very bad and reckoned it would snap. I used a small nozzle propane/map gas torch to give it some heat. Melted the old sensor but it was seized in anyway . I use a plumbers heat pads to protect surrounding area like cables and flexi hoses. Bit of heat then a spray of penetrating oil then repeat. Eventually got it out. Last thing you want is to snap one. Alasdair

I agree with them seizing. Had a few that were solid but managed to remove eventually. Find as well that if the bolt is seized so will the sensor. If I am replacing them I use a small smear of copper grease. Alasdair

Think its M6 x 16 torx Although they were allan/hex on my octavia but may not be original. Alasdair

Got some extra in case and it took 4.6 litres. Oil level seems fine at op temp but will double check in a day or two. Forgot that to get the filter out on the 1.6tdi you have to remove wiring and stainless pipe. Not the most ideal design. Old 1.9tdi plus my sons 1.2htp comes out no problem. I suppose thats designers versus mechanics again. Alasdair

I agree with Pete. 40k and 5 years as long as a decent make of belt and tensioner etc was used should be ok. Never had one rumble before plus if it disappears when clutch is pressed it points to clutch/DMF/gearbox/release bearing not belt as belt etc would still be turning when clutch is engaged or disengaged . I would run it and monitor the rumble. If it gets noticeably worse then more investigation may be needed. Depending on the style of driving previously it may be the clutch/flywheel/release bearing that's failing at that mileage Alasdair

Check the car socket to see what wire colour is on pin 3 which should be earth and normally white. If its white I would move it from terminal (a) on the trailer side of the bypass relay to the earth connection on bypass relay Alasdair