Alasdair1

Thats one very strict MOT place. Glad I didnt put my old octavia in there. Alasdair

I agree NGK every time. Been using them for years on everything and never had one fail. From memory NGK have a plug finder tool on there site. https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/catalogues/cars/search/spark-plugs/ Alasdair

MIght be worth checking connections to starter for looseness/corrosion/breaks. A bad earth strap may cause it as well as the smaller wire to the solanoid if its damaged/broken. Also check battery voltage and connections especially earth.

From memory I read there may be two w3w tail light bulbs in each cluster on rear think its the MK2/1z. Not entirely sure but worth a check. Perhaps one has blown. Alasdair

Doubt it but heres a link to lll parts diagram. Cant work out if it just clips in place or requires bolts. The part number you gave is no 75 on diagram. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/5wa201429/trim-for-fuel-tank-5wa201429 Alasdair

My wing mirror has one out and no warning. Did have a warning a while back and it was corrosion in number plate lights. All lights were fine and working but the corrosion was enough to trigger bulb light. When I cleaned it the bulb was slightly brighter. Alasdair

I would get it scanned as there is probably a code stored pointing to which abs sensor is faulty or could be broken wire to it. As said check voltage accross battery when cranking engine. 12.3v is 60-70% charge but if a cell is failing it may drop a lot when under load. Might also explain why it happens when rear wiper is on etc. Alasdair

Check the voltage of battery when car not running. Should be 12.5-12.8v and 13.5-14.5 when running. Could be a failing cell in battery so you get enough to start car and may charge up enough to do it next time but if its a short journey then battery hasn't enough power. Have had a few that start no problem and are fine after a longish run but when short journey after 5 miles stop to get fuel it wouldnt start and dash like a christmas tree. Also check battery voltage when cranking. If it drops too low the electronic systems dont like it. If the battery is good then maybe check terminals for corosion and also earth points. Alasdair

The clutch disc was a bit rusty in places so think thats why the rivets failed on one side. Probably had been sitting for a long while without being used. His is the same no rust underneath apart from front swing arms which I have two new ones. Its now done 78k and touch wood no major problems. Going to do the timing chain on his due to the age plus a couple of suspension bushes including arms that had a minor advise last MOT. Hes wanting something a bit newer and sporty but I will be keeping the car when he gets something else as its excellent to drive and better for short runs than my diesel octavias. Alasdair

Thats a smart looking car plus really like the colour. Lot better colour than my cappochino beige octavia. Hope you enjoy it Alasdair

Sons is a mk1 55plate and one side of the clutch disk disintegrated. Probably down to old age as there was still a reasonable amount on the flywheel side. No air in system. It only had 60k on the clock when he got it it so it had only being doing around 3000miles a year so could also have been an elderly driver that slipped it a lot. Good shout getting it noted in the contract. His has been very reliable apart from clutch. Have had to do a couple of suspension bushes/ball joints, rear brake shoes and as said fitted a new slave cylinder but nothing major. Pretty good for a 20 year old car. Alasdair

I agree doubt you would get white smoke if its a bad oil cooler. White smoke is normally HG so maybe both? Alasdair

Could be air in system or a failing master/slave but my sons mk1 1.2htp clutch totaled its self at around that mileage. No warning or slipping just no drive suddenly. Clutch kit wasn't expensive but labour might be unless you can do it yourself plus doubt clutches are covered warranty wise. I did his myself and changed slave at same time for around £150. I assume its a car dealer so maybe see if they will cover a new clutch as well or reduce price accordingly. Old style cable operated clutches bite point got higher as the cable stretched but hydraulic if the bite point is high its either a worn clutch or air in system. Alasdair

I put in Skoda octavia mk1 vrs breaking and it came up with this. Hope link works ok https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=skoda+octavia+mk1+vrs+breaking&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p3711649.m570.l1313 Alasdair

Just make sure you order the correct one for the drivers door. Have had a few bits and pieces and so far so good. I tend to use a bank account I hardly use for payment just in case. Alasdair

Have a look on Amazon. Search Skoda superb inner door handle 2005. All from china by the looks of it. and three weeks plus delivery. Not sure if its the same or what the quality will be but around £25 Alasdair

Maybe overfilled at some point and canister is clogged/fuel in it plus check hoses are secure. It could also be a bad evap purge valve but on a 2025 car ?? Alasdair

From memory the one for my octavia was around £15 Alasdair

Could be the prongs in the expansion tank are dirty hence the alarm. Try giving them a scrape with a screw driver and top up to max and monitor it. If theres still white smoke its most likely HG especially with release of pressure and brown coolant. You could run the car stationary without expansion cap and look for bubbles in tank or oil on top. Alasdair

Fitted an NRF one to my old octavia and had no problems. Have a look if febi do one as well. Avoid any brandless ones on ebay etc. Alasdair

I had similar problem. Very slight corrosion on alloys and tyre leaked at bead seal I checked before reinflating as my compressor was borrowed and it was around 25psi and a few bubbles were spotted. Reckon a flake of paint may have caused it and cleared itself once reinflated to proper pressure at garage. Eventually it started to deflate again so I got the local tyre service to remove and clean rim and reseat tyre. Been good since. Never had a bead seal go on steel but alloys seem to be prone. Alasdair

Think its electric hydraulic steering. Check the level and condition of steering fluid. If the lights are dimming it may be a fault in the electric pump or perhaps corrosion in connectors or an airlock. From memory to bleed top up with correct fluid and leave cap off and turn full left/full right till bubbles stop. Alasdair

Part number for leather one is 1U0711141P2L3 if its any help Alasdair

sorry just realised your in slovakia Alasdair

Put skoda octavia mk1 vrs breaking into ebay and 8 came up. There might be the right one available Alasdair