Alasdair1

Sorry no idea how the above happen. Got message saying your replies have been merged? Alasdair

If its jumped from 3/4 to full I would suspect a sender fault or wiring short. From memory on modern vehicles the lower the fuel the higher resistance at sender hence a short will be zero resistance so show max. Not sure where the tank is but worth checking wiring to sender in case its damaged/worn. Might be worth getting it scanned in case it pings something up. It also depends if the signal from sender goes through the BCM module or direct to cluster. Alasdair If its jumped from 3/4 to full I would suspect a sender fault or wiring short. From memory on modern vehicles the lower the fuel the higher resistance at sender hence a short will be zero resistance so show max. Not sure where the tank is but worth checking wiring to sender in case its damaged/worn. Might be worth getting it scanned in case it pings something up. It also depends if the signal from sender goes through the BCM module or direct to cluster. Alasdair

Sons m1 fabia did the same the other day. Fault in petrol pump and it filled it till it overflowed. Took about 150miles for it to start dropping. Alasdair

It may be that the tank was filled right to the brim. I would leave it for another 100 miles. If its still the same it may be a wiring short which I think would read full all the time or the sender unit in tank is stuck. Could also be a stuck guage on cluster. Try tapping cluster but not too hard. You could also try disconnecting battery for a while to reboot ECU etc. Alasdair

Why not just swap actuators? Think they are the same for both turbo. Alasdair

Many thanks for all the help. New springs fitted with minimal hassle. Found the easiest way is to jack car up then put a jack under swing arm to take strain. (I have a couple of old Peugeot boxer van scissor type with a handy button on top that sits in swing arm hole) Remove swing arm bolt at hub end, Lower jack under swing arm, pull spring out and fitting is just the reverse. All torqued up and cars sitting level again. Thank you again for all your help and research Alasdair

Just come back from motor factors with two new springs. They checked for me they were correct and judging by the language trying to find the correct ones on there system even with the part number I supplied wasn't easy and not normally what they supply. For some reason my estate is fitted with slightly weaker springs. Thanks for the part number Pete. Absolutely spot on as usual. The guy I spoke to is very good and pointed out the ones they normally sell are heavy duty for cars with tow bar. He made a note on their system to ask in future. Next step is to get the old ones off but thats tomorrows job as its miserable weather.

Did any steering warning lights come on? It may have been the steering angle sensor/steering pump that's had a blip when you swerved and gone heavy or your steering fluid is low. It may have reset itself when you stopped and restarted. Is the steering wheel centred and when driving on straight flat road not pulling to left or right. Alasdair

Think its the same as 096 size. From memory 096 is uk identification. Have had a few varta/bosch batteries with different numbering. As long as the physical dimension size is the same/terminals in the correct place and type and ah/amps are the same(or pretty near) it will be ok. The one you have fitted according to google is a glass mat battery. Alasdair

Maybe coil pack is failing at high revs or cam sensor. Have read that a bad cam sensor sometimes wont create a code. Was it doing it before plug change? Alasdair

My old Seat was the same. Garage scanner plug was slightly too thick. I ended up unclipping socket to plug it in. Alasdair

Have ordered the correct ones from vin (thanks Pete). Have a couple spare from older car never fitted but on checking are heavier duty so dont want to risk affecting ride/height etc plus I am not carrying the weight in car I used to and no towbar on this one. Hope the old ones come off easily. Reckon there original on a 12 plate with 130k so not owing anybody anything. At least this time its the rear. Thanks again Alasdair

I have had the same problem on my Octavia for a good while now. Weird wobble/vibration at 40-50mph only when accelerating. Garage I sometimes use couldn't find anything amiss but did feel the wobble. If I lift my foot of pedal or engage clutch it disappears. I have checked everything and now reckon its a drive shaft/cv joint related problem. I have been waiting until it gets worse so I can work out which one. Have noticed very slight play in the offside one now so reckon its the problem. There's no real feeling in steering wheel but more through the seat. Was going to attempt it this week but rear spring just snapped so having to do it first as we need the car daily. Alasdair

Many thanks Pete. Have been looking at my collection of spares and found two rear springs never fitted to my last Octavia. Will ping you my VIN number. Thanks again Alasdair

Update had a look in swing arm socket and found bit of paint from coil. Looks like 1 white and two yellow marks which has confused me even more as I read sports suspension had blue so why have I a sports suspension pr code? They look original but may have been replaced before I got the car. At least its the rear thats broken. Alasdair

Hi Have a 12plate octavia estate and just broken a rear spring. (now 5 on my different cars in two years) Problem I am having is no paint marks left on either rear spring . I don't have a PR code listed for suspension so dont know if its standard (1JA) or heavy duty (1JB) but I do have a code for sports suspension (2UA) Checked LLL parts and seems to be 10 different versions and now very confused. Not sure if sports suspension is front and rear? Any help most welcome. Alasdair

Sorry never got round to it. Sons still at me but have had other numerous repairs more urgent to do. Alasdair

Dont think they make any real difference. Probably only 2or3 hp. I suppose it depends how often the bonnet is open so people can see it. If its a show car then yes if its a daily driver then I wouldn't bother. Alasdair

Same up here in Inverness. Far to much salt on roads hence why you only see proper cars in the summer. I have a Mk1 mazda eunos(mx5 jap import) that is in pretty good condition so hope to have it on road this year. Daughter has a 1.6 gti peugeot 205 plus she is working on a classic mini. Thing should go like a rocket. It as a metro 1300 engine with loads of extras etc. Alasdair

That's a car you don't see very often. Cant say I have seen one in at least 20years. Used to be a bright yellow pickup version around Inverness about 15 year ago and I think an old 110R but only seen in summer. Those were the days where cars were fairly simple. Alasdair

Sons 1.2htp mk1 is the same. Cracked everywhere. His idle was all over the place. Taped up and been fine since. Did think of replacing with rubber vaccum hose but not sure why these are rigid in the first place. Alasdair

Depends on if its EFB or AGM and size/make of battery. Quick look and if its an 096 Tayna batteries are £100 aprox for varta 096 EFB and £125 aprox for varta 096 AGM. Try puting reg in at tayna and see what they come up with. You may be cheaper buying and fitting it yourself and paying to get it coded. Alasdair

Is there a cat before the dpf. If its clogged it would explain continuous regen but lack of airflow can stop the soot being removed. Not sure how you check. I would assume a fault code but perhaps not. Alasdair

Soot mass is high but not excessive. I reckon its not getting long enough to regen completely or regen is failing for some reason. My mk2 1.6tdi is the same. Fan on when engine turned off plus idle at 1100-1200rpm. I took it for a blast keeping revs up to 3k in 4th gear for about 1/2 hour and its back to normal. Not entirely sure with yours but differential pressure seems high as well.