Alasdair1

Had another thought. Check the strip fuses in engine bay. On my sons fabia there in front of battery box. They can crack but look fine. His ABS one went and randomly car got ABS light especially when damp. It was a hairline crack that couldnt be seen but when removed it fell in two. The others were fine but a but of corosion around where they bolt down. Not sure if any are related to ignition but worth a quick look. Alasdair

How is the timing set on the engine. I believe LPG timing is a good bit more advanced with propane than petrol. On older systems (distributor) they set it somewhere in between for optimal combustion of both. My LPG forklift ran very rough at idle plus spluttered etc until I advanced the ignition slightly. Just wondering if the timing is off slightly. On the forklft there is a small oil port on distributor to lubricate the centrifugal advance. If I dont oil it regularly the timing is out. Alasdair

4mm cable for earth reckon is too small. Think main battery is 10mm or more and starter is at least 6mm. If a new battery doesn't cure it it may be the starter itself. Used to be able to get them checked at a local autosparky as he had a machine to simulate starting load and was an expert at rebuilding them but alas he has retired. Doubt anyone checks them anymore. Hope the new battery cures it. Alasdair

Be wary if ordering one from europe etc. I got an aftermarket one for my sons MK1 and it was much smaller as it was for a LHD car. Alasdair

Not sure but came across a euroflo one with can and o2 sensor before cat. Might narrow it down but think its an autodoc type company. https://www.onlineautomotive.co.uk/Skoda/Fabia/1.4L/Exhausts/Catalytic-Converters/EuroFlo/SKO1014H?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22698198479&gbraid=0AAAAAD9ghT5Vx78C_2whCjuZY2pJFdKTz&gclid=Cj0KCQjw7IjOBhDyARIsAFzrWQyR7MTtIJT9AkqxmApe9KS09DftrCrUzu5agorJC54mKBW-y3fxiQIaAskBEALw_wcB Meant to add euroflo part number ECVW1186TA Parts in motion have them £127 Alasdair

As it doesnt have codes just wondering if it is in limp mode. Do you have petrol and lpg and does it do the same on both. On my mk2 EML light is on when in limp mode. May be a lack of fuel problem with lpg.

Not good. Doubt it would be worth repairing even if its possible. Maybe pick up a second hand bare block and transfer parts from old engine or a second hand engine. Alasdair

Could be ECU but maybe the connector is loose or needing cleaned. As said seems odd there are no fault codes. Maybe see if anyone has VCDS to see if there are any codes that the scanner didnt pick up. Wet passenger side is quite often leaking heater matrix but if theres no coolant loss maybe coming in at door seal or at passenger side window and through door itself. Alasdair

What scanner was used. If the car goes into limp mode I would be 99% certain a code is stored somewhere. You say Gas/Lpg engine. Is it running on LPG. Not sure how the system works but on my old LPG forklift if the antifreeze is poor the unit that supplies LPG tends to freeze up. Alasdair

Meant to add if they check the wheels get them to check undertray is secure. Have had one vibrate at certain speeds due to lack of fixings. Alasdair

If its a bearing it will get progressively worse although I had one that lasted for months until I got round to replacing it. Slight droning noise so I checked and there was no noticeable movement or play. Eventually became loud enough to pin point which one. Maybe the garage that did the tyres would pop it on a ramp for you and give each wheel a quick check. Alasdair

Difficult to tell but may be a wheel bearing on its way out. My sons sounded a bit like that His was the front and it change pitch/got louder/quieter if you steered left and right. Could also be a bad CV joint. Did the noise move from rear to front or vice versa when you swapped wheels/tyres. His bearing made noise but no noticeable play and felt fairly smooth. It was only when I compared it to new one noticed it was a lot stiffer. Alasdair

Check any vaccum lines to turbo and also if the actuator is moving freely. My old 1.9tdi actuator was sticking and used to over boost then limp mode. P0299 is underboost so wonder if its sticking open randomly. I lubricated mine and moved manually for a good while till it became smooth again. I think theres a sensor on yours that may be failing or perhaps wiring to it. The turbo may be a variable vein type and they can get carboned up and stick causing the same symptoms. Also check your air filter. Alasdair

Maybe the heater flaps need reset. On mine you press AC and ECON I think but it can vary depending on model. It may be that the climatronic control has lost calibration of heater flaps. Dont suppose the battery was disconnected? Alasdair

Mine leaked at door card as seals for window were shot and plastic liner had become detached. Alasdair

Try https://www.tayna.co.uk/ There pretty reasonable price wise and quick delivery. You would need to get battery coded though but may be cheaper. Alasdair

If its in really good condition with not much/no rust someone will buy it and fix it or use as a donor car for parts. Folks had the 1.9tdi estate version that I then inherited when they gave up driving and was one of the best cars I've had. Loads of space in rear and mpg was 60plus plus power when you needed it. Alas a slight arguement with our postie van and it was written off. If he had been 1sec slower or faster he would have missed the door pillar. Daughter has the V40 D2 R design which is newer and she is very happy with. Been in it once and feels very solid and safe plus supposed to be very reliable although visability not as good as the fabia. Wasnt too expensive at around 3k. Only problem with modern diesel is the DPF so she has to take it for a decent run from time to time. I used to drive volvo petrol 940 estates which I reckon have the most space in rear. I loved them but £400 road tax plus 30mpg became too expensive. I would have another tomorrow if I could afford to run it or ideally a 240 saloon as I used to have one. A 23 year old volvo v40 1.6 with only 70k and a full service history may be a very good buy as long as its clean and free of rust. Thats only done 3k a year. Maybe factor in a timing belt if it hasn't already been done. Used to be 70k or 7 years from memory and perhaps a clutch if someone older has been driving it and slipping it a bit. Cant be many v40 of that age with such a low mileage. Really hope you get something sorted soon. Alasdair

Son has the hatchback and its 20 year old and generally rust free. Best thing about car is its simple so if it goes wrong then generally repairable by me fairly easily. The MOT fails seem to be fairly straight forward repairs by any garage. Power steering hose may be problematic sourcing a new one otherwise parts are relatively cheap if going for aftermarket ones. Problem these days is labour cost. Still think it would be an idea to try around some of the smaller garages if you have any left near you as they are dying out near me and being taken over by Arnold clark etc. and cost a fortune in parts and labour. The only thing that would worry me is that engine has a timing chain and at 120k could probably be needing changed unless its been done previously, Same with the clutch. It may be noted in any service history that came with car. Last thing you want is to spend money and then have to spend a lot more if its needing done. If the chain fails it will wreck engine. There may be someone on here that could reccomend a friendly cheaper garage near you or possibly a mobile mechanic. Have a look at Volvo as well. Had older ones years ago and they never gave me any bother at all. Alasdair

Re exhaust pete is right. Flexi bolts onto cat. Sons is the same. I bought a flexi repair but wasnt enough left to clamp it to so bought a new front section including flexi only £60 from partsinmotion (BM catlyst BM50199K). Winscreen pump may have failed but there not expensive. Rear shocks are fairly cheap as well. As for the front suspension bush they are fairly cheap as well but need a puller/press to remove an install old one. Is it the same garage that did the MOT thats quoted over 1k. I use MOT only garages. Found in the past some garages seem to be a bit hard on you for an MOT if they think they may get the repair job. Might be worth phoning a few independant ones to get a quote for the fail points. Alasdair

From memory they produce a million a week and are fitted to 1 in 5 cars OE world wide. Alasdair

KYB (Kayaba) are manufacturers of shocks and springs. I usually deal with parts in motion autofactors online as their prices seem very good. I have been using KYB for years an no problems so far. Alasdair

Had a quick look on KYB cat as I was looking anyway for my old Seat and checked parts in motion website for price/availabilty Not exactly sure what model of yeti you have but seems to be two front springs depending on model KYB 334834 front shock £99.21 per pair KYB 910004 bump stop £15 each KYB SM1714 top mount £16 each KYB RA3364 spring £35 each or KYB RH2957 £30 each (not sure on what model yeti you have I would check with reg etc on the above as I may be wrong. If the shocks are just misting the chances are that they will still be misting next MOT. My octavia had advise of misting for 3 years until one finally went. As for the drains if there on your property a couple of cans of expanding hilti foam may help the situation. Alasdair

Oily underside on a 16 year old car is fairly normal as long as its not losing a lot of oil I wouldnt worry. My old octavia had a very minor leak but I just left it as it wasnt losing much plus couldnt work out where it was coming from. If its at base of gearbox/bell housing it may be clutch fluid from a leaking slave cylinder. Check the brake/clutch reservoir in case its dropping. Glad you got it started and its been fine since. Alasdair

I know I hate using them. I have another twin set that I use in conjunction with them but still scary even with 5 . Have managed to do quite a few over the years but worse was old toyota people carrier that weighed about 2 ton so front springs were massive. I just take my time and make sure each one is tightened slowly and equally and I do them outside making sure I am as far away from them as possible. If I am fitting new shocks and springs I quite often throw a few quid to local garage and get them to assemble them. Alasdair

Might be worth changing as there not that expensive. Read another sensor could be the air intake temp sensor. If its failing/bad connection ecu can overfuel. Dont suppose there are any fault codes? Alasdair