Alasdair1

Sounds like a corroded earth somewhere thats causing voltage drop when car electrics are under more load. Not sure if the fan and ECU share same earth point. Check the earth nearest battery first under battery tray and check if you can where I think brown wire goes from ECU. Alasdair

Maybe not my folks had the estate and it had an extra one in rear on right hand side. Alasdair

Do you have another socket in rear boot that you could try plugging charger into to perhaps rule it out? Alasdair

Sons ABS one cracked but couldn't see it until removed when it broke in two. He had random brake/ABS warning once car was warm so I assume the heat expanded crack. I removed them all as his were slightly coroded and cleaned up terminals and fuses. Wonder if the charger you were using is faulty and drawing more power than usual or its due to dirty contacts in socket? Alasdair

The rear brake cylinders are not expensive as are the front calipers if needed. Last rears I bought were around £13-00 each and front calipers were around £40 each. Those were for a MK1 but stick your reg into https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/ and check prices. Alasdair

I see what you mean re availability. Did find an autoparts store in Ukraine that seem to list them but not sure if they send to uk? https://avto.pro/?srsltid=AfmBOoqp-kvLWCwEw4GEMPkLVLAgMtLyunOXu-CCxm_fwf8foHMCdU1R Alasdair

Cars sometimes pull to left due to camber on road. Try and drive in middle on quiet road and see if it makes any difference. I am sure you have checked tyre pressures. If it doesnt make any difference then maybe swap tyres from rear to front. Alasdair

Another thought is check the expansion vessel for cracks/damage Alasdair

Had a quick look and sorry I was wrong. Theres no expansion/overflow pipe on his so coolant must just drain down sides of expansion. I was thinking of my Seat. You could try some kitchen towel taped around tank to see if it gets wet or even some flour dusted around top. If its leaking it would wash flour away. Alasdair

The pipe I am meaning normally comes from cap and is open at the end. It usually fed down into engine bay so any loss of coolant drops onto undertray/road. Will check my sons 1.2htp . As to coolant in oil its possible but rare. It normally happens with cracked head/failed gasket when coolant pressure is higher than the oil. Had it on an old toyota that head was cracked and tended to let coolant leak when hot and crack had opened due to expansion. If theres no smoke from exhaust I dont think the coolant is getting into pistons but may be leaking between coolant and oil passage ways in head. Will as said check my sons Alasdair

If theres an overflow pipe from expansion cap put it into a plastic bottle somewhere in engine bay away from heat and check it after driving a good distance. It will rule out loss of coolant from cap. It may be that the febi one is not quite the same pressure rating as original. Check the engine oil and filler cap for emulsification. Its not unknown for coolant to get into oil but not oil in coolant as coolant may have more pressure than the oil. Last thing I can think of is leaking core plugs. Think there are a few but not sure if there are any hidden behind bell housing. Check base of bell housing for signs of antifreeze crystals. It may be why the previous owner added kseal or similar? I assume you have checked radiator. If its a small leak only once upto pressure/temp it can evaporate before dripping down. The rad and core plugs I know from experience. Alasdair

The freeing of the front would have no effect on rear and the fact they all failed is pure coincindence. Reckon if both front and rear are bad the car may have been in a High salt area or even coastal. MOT with no advisories ?? but if the brakes were working and equal/balanced at the time it will pass. If its still under a years waranty and hopefully covers brakes the seller should replace all calipers and wheel cylinders plus Depending on condition of front discs may be worth getting new front discs at the same time plus make sure they replace both front shocks not just one. If the front got very hot it may have also damaged wheel bearing as well so mention that to them Alasdair

Never repaired one but if its still working then I assume splines are ok and its something else. Alasdair

It may be a bearing thats failed hence movement and not splines. When its working the bearing may be getting pulled slightly and rattle disapears. It could be repairable but maybe a second hand one or aftermarket? Alasdair

From memory style model is higher spec than ambition. Maybe the manual Gbox is more popular hence hold its value better. Alasdair

What wheel/tyre size. Sons fabia had larger diameter wheels/tyres than normal when he first got it. Acceleration was poor but top speed very good eventually. We changed it back to standard and acceleration is much better now. Pretty nippy for a 1.2 64hp. According to specs the Kamiq should be faster 0-60 than the Dacia. Also wonder why it needed a new clutch at 15000?? Alasdair

Had a thought. Just replaced master cylinder on car and over the years vw/skoda changed part design. The main part number was the same but the last letter changed every update It started with A and then B,C and ended up with F. Wonder if they have changed them and 3C0122157FB has become 3C0122157FC. Alasdair

Not sure re wheel arches but check measurment to suspension strut. Had a people carrier with 18" aftermarket wheels which didn't hit arches but had to drop tyre profile to just miss bottom of strut/spring. Wasnt much but went from 225/50/18 to 225/45/18 extra load. Have a look at https://www.wheelfitment.eu/ it lists the kodiak as having 19" wheels as an option and tyre sizes Alasdair

Glad your getting somewhere. Alasdair

Might be a worn universal joint in column or play in steering rods/ball joints that MOT missed. If you sit in car stationary and look at front wheel when turning slightly how much does the steering wheel turn before wheels move. Alasdair

Was the hardware number on the old ECU an exact match for the new one. Hope you get it sorted. Alasdair

I take it it was the same problem with old ecu. If so wonder if the problem has been copied to new one as in a software issue/corrupted data on the original. May need special diagnostic tools to check. I take it there is no sign of imobilser active symbol on dash when cranking and is it there pre ignition? just in case bulb/led has failed. Alasdair

Does sound like an ecu problem. If the ecu is getting power but not puting out a signal it may have failed internally unless its a wiring isssue. Not sure if they are repairable or a new one is available and old one could be copied to it or perhaps a second had one but it would need to be programmed with data on the original Alasdair

Wonder if silicone hoses would do. They bend a lot better than rubber. Alasdair

Might be an over sensitive gauge. Can you use VCDS to check the actual temp and compare with gauge. Mine drops slightly in really cold weather but normally dont notice when heaters are on. On mine which is diesel I think there is an auxiliary heater for cabin. Wonder if its a problem with it somehow if you have one. Alasdair