Alasdair1

The voltage reading at terminal 30 I think is battery voltage so at 12.109V seems to be low and will probably drop further when cranking which may be affecting starting etc. I may be wrong but maybe battery is low and could do with a check/charge. Alasdair

I did have one fail once as the front one was badly coroded/loose and not held on by much. The MOT guy said he wasnt allowed to remove it himself but if I ripped it off he would pass it. Alasdair

Those symptoms point to maybe a blockage somewhere. Wonder if the cat is ok or if some of the dpf ended up in exhaust somewhere. Alasdair

Have had cars pass MOT for years without them. As long as the discs are good and brakes work it should pass. Alasdair

Think the front are replaceable without hub removal but rear require hub off. My old mk2 was the same. Horrible squealing noise and when I tried to push backplate away from disc it disentegrated. Never bothered replacing it as the other side was missing. Didnt cause me any problems without them. Was going to do it if I had to replace a bearing but bearings outlasted the car which died due to corrosion. Alasdair

Hopefully a scan will ping something up and also hopefully its a one of or minor. If there are no codes then maybe VCDS as it can pick up codes that some scanners miss. Alasdair

Still wondering why it needed a new clutch at 15000. Wonder if its been a demo or the previous owner has thrashed into the ground or slipped it constantly? which may explain why its down on power. Not sure how you check actual power output of engine. Alasdair

If you are getting a lot of failed DPF regens due to short runs it can lead to dilution with diesel in oil which will make it thinner and more susceptible to be burnt. There was a recent post of a tdi experiencing a short and very lucky run on due to oil being so thin it managed to get past seals in turbo. His oil level was high when he checked but assumed it was overfilled. I try to take my 1.6tdi out for a decent run at least once a week as its now only doing short runs. Alasdair

Had similar problem with old toyota lucida. Guy who owned it before had 225/40/18 and although looked good we hit a pot hole and blow out plus bent alloy. I went for 225/45/18 that just fitted due to the bottom of the front strut plus went for extra load as it did weigh a fair bit which was probably why the lower profile standard tyre blew out. Ride was a bit firmer but apart from that no more blow outs. Alasdair

My cars get really bad but I use a big industrial wet/dry vacuum got from Lidl which gets the bulk of the debris. The cars get used for work plus dogs etc. For carpets that are normally full of sand/dirt I use an air compressor and blast anything out onto a damp microfibre cloth the hoover doesnt pick up. Same as dust in seats and dash etc. Have a long narrow attachment for hoover which is brilliant for retrieving pens pound coins etc that get stuck in seat runners and awkward places. Make a fortune when I empty it. Generally gets done normally before MOT. Alasdair

May be the aftermarket oil seperator as it hasnt a diaphram it may be allowing engine to create to much vaccuum causing the squeal. Reckon your on the right track with PCV system. Alasdair

It could be carboned up veins in turbo that is causing a blip which will put into temporary limp mode especially when accelerating then clear once restarted or failing/clogged boost pressure sensor/vacuum leak/N75 valve. They can both cause I think called temporary/soft codes that some scanners don't pick up. Had similar in my old octy. Stopped and started again and back to normal. No EML on each time but eventually got a code plus EML that it was over boosting. Turned out to be sticking actuator in my case. Reckon a scan with vcds is required as it should pick up any codes that other scanners miss. Alasdair

Get the battery voltage checked plus make sure terminals are secure and clean plus earths. Make sure battery is secure as well. Had problem with old skoda that the mechanic who was servicing it forgot to tighten battery securing clamp and one terminal so when going into tight corners battery was moving and causing bad connection. Alasdair

Glad you got it sorted. Was meaning to post the above but been up to my eyes today fixing the steering on my daughters bambi mini campervan (bedford rascal van based) Old school vehicle with castleated nuts and split pins that were seized solid. Managed to get it fixed so happy daughter. Well done and hope it stays that way Alasdair.

Thats different to the one I was meaning. On my sons 1.2htp theres a sensor on gearbox rear top near steering rack. I assumed it was speed sensor but may be wrong. Alasdair

Think its on rear of gearbox/bell housing on top . Easiest to get to from under car. Could be a wiring issue to it unless yours is an auto?? Alasdair

Not entirely sure but think if its a manual petrol it has solid but if it has dsg Gbox or diesel then DMF. Someone on here will know for sure. Alasdair

May be a worn release bearing. When the clutch is pressed it will put pressure on bearing which may make sound disappear. Reckon clutch at 107k the bearing will have been well used and clutch fairly worn. As far as I know the only way to check is Gbox out. If your doing a new clutch replace slave cylinder at the same time. Alasdair

Could be a microswitch in door lock or maybe broken wire at door pillar. Does the door open symbol on dash come on? Alasdair

Might be worth checking wiring from pump backwards. It could be a corroded connector/earth somewhere that's failing when getting hot or broken wire. At least you have ruled out socket. Alasdair

Try we buy any car etc. There not to know gearbox is failing? Stick in your reg and see what they will give you. Auctions are a bit of a lottery as it depends if two or more people are interested but if you have one fairly local maybe worth a shot. Check what commision they ask and if theres VAT involved. Alasdair

Might be worth getting a scan done. I assume if steering fails it will generate a code. The pump is electric so maybe its failing/overheating and cutting out or the steering fluid is past it/low and the pump is having to work a lot harder? Alasdair

Yep after looking again reckon its too much for just condensation as Warrior193 said and as your losing coolant and no drips/signs of coolant after pressure test I am afraid the coolant must be going somewhere internal. Dont think you have an oil cooler so probably HG. I would double check for leaks again just in case its not obvious including heater matrix. Alasdair

The cap does look a bit worse than just condensation but it may be normal if its only doing very short runs and from the amount of coolant your losing I would expect a lot more emusification if HG had gone. Hopefully you will see some drips by tomorrow. Alasdair

That's I think if you leave battery in situ still connected to car. They are referring to where the battery is earthed to chassis although on my skoda its under battery tray so I use any bare metal for -ve. Same as when jumping a car. Something to do with sparks and flammable gas. I normally just disconnect +ve and -ve on battery and connect direct to battery. Alasdair