Alasdair1

That's odd I thought they all had anti theft alarm unless someone has removed it. I had a quick google and 2001 I think uses Immo2 which is simpler. 2003 I think uses Immo3 which is more complicated. At this point I am now lost as its above my learning curve. I would assume by swapping all relevant modules etc it would work. It must be an imobiliser problem or incompatabilty somewhere. Alasdair

Think they worked with both. Some systems can-bus and rest K line. The symptoms are definitly imobilser linked. Wonder if the newer uses more Can-bus or perhaps something else that requires coding to ECU. Not sure but maybe BCM although don.t think its imobilser linked but may be linked to cluster. Alasdair

Maybe a full tank of supreme diesel would help clean things up although at todays prices would double the value of my old 1.9tdi. Hope a good going over with VCDS will pinpoint something. It may be the throttle position sensor that is out so perhaps a throttle body alignment with vcds is required. Alasdair

Its been years since I needed a child seat but we drove Volvo 940 estates then and getting a seat to fit properly wasn't easy. We went to halfords and they tried a few before we got one that fitted well. Might be an idea to pop in and ask them if you have one local. You obviously don't have to buy from them but they were very helpful. Alasdair

Wonder if the throttle body is sticking at some point and not closing properly randomly. Alasdair

If its happening when accelerating and also when foot is lifted your probably right in it not being a drive train issue but worth getting garage to go out with you and show a mechanic not the salesman. It may be a bad tyre even though its brand new. Had one go slightly out of round that was fairly new. Couldn't notice at low speeds but at 50/60 mph felt like someone was shaking seat base. Not felt through steering wheel. Turned out to be one of the rears. The tyre service said they see it fairly often and have had random new tyres the same. Alasdair

Have a look in the vehicle hand book or beside spare wheel. You are looking for a sticker I use https://www.oemvwshop.com/pr-code-decoder/ to decode them. As said not sure if reverse lights are mentioned specificly. You may have to get a full list from Skoda. Alasdair

Not sure on the Yeti. Fabia is under rear seat so yeti may be the same. May be under a plastic cover. If the guage is working and then showing full randomly I would suspect a wiring short or broken wire. On some skodas fuel sender feeds direct to cluster and others via BCM. Think it depends on age. Alasdair

Another thing to check is the build code/Pr codes. Not sure if reversing lights are mentioned but if it states that two reversing lights are fitted then there should be two. 8TA is tail light with reversing light

Think it depends on trim level and if its UK or EU. It may be that there is only one as UK law states one is adequate. I assume its LED so if there is no LED light there it would require a new unit plus probably VCDS to tell car its fitted. If there is an LED unit there then it may be possible to tell car to operate it. Alasdair

If its going to floor and not returning I wouldnt be driving it until I found the fault. It could be a return spring on pedal thats broken or come off but it could also be the master cylinder seals letting fluid passed them. It may not be leaking yet but at some point if it is the master you will have no Brakes!! Check the brake reservoir level and any brake pipes/flexi for leaks. Similar symptoms can happen if its a major leak of fluid. Alasdair

If its the rear it could be the handbrake cable operating lever that's seized. Pistons don't release properly when handbrake is let off. I removed the lever etc and lubricated mechanism plus operated it until pistons were out a good bit and then wound them in again and kept repeating until it worked smoothly. As for identification have a look at https://brakesint.co.uk/ They have description of caliper like smooth/ribbed etc with all sizes and pictures. Alasdair

Neighbour just had the same problem on his Mitsubishi 4x4. Just back from garage for service and MOT then dash lights like a Xmas tree with numerous warnings re ABS,Steering,4x4 and a lot more. I got called to look and told him to get garage to scan/check sensors etc. Bad clip that holds sensor in bearing plus new bearing as the old one was totaled trying to remove. Back to new again. Alasdair

Hopefully a glitch. I would monitor it and maybe keep an eye on trip mileage in case the guage/wiring is faulty and showing more fuel than you have. If it happens again I would check wiring from sender backwards. Alasdair

Many thanks Pete. doesn't seem to be any play or signs of any weights missing. No clunks either so wonder if one is slightly bent. Have tried everything else to cure wobble and thought I would try a couple of cheaper versions (febi/Apec around £120 for both to check if it makes any improvement. Only thing I havent changed is front shocks but they have no signs of leaking plus car seems level and feels fine over bumps etc so I assume ok. Have an old 58 plate and checked and they are the same part numbers so have a spare set of genuine if I need them. Alasdair

Hi I have had an odd wobble when accelerating for a long time. Stops when foot is lifted or clutch engageg and the only thing I haven't replaced is front drive shafts. Not sure if its the inner or outer CV that is the problem or the shaft itself. Doesnt seem to be any wear/movement so assume one is out of balance. Cars done 110k so going to replace both completely. Have found via lllpaarts the following part numbers via VIN number Front left is 1k0407271CP or 1k0407451FX both superseded by 1k0407271LB Front right is 1k0407272CC or 1k0407452DX both superseded by 5q0407272FF Can anyone confirm these part numbers are correct before I order them. Going aftermarket to keep cost down so probably Febi or Apec Thanks in advance Alasdair

It looks like multilink. On my MK2 it is. For adjustment you need 4 excentric bolts. Two for the top swing arms and there are another two but cant remember where. Have a look at https://www.lllparts.co.uk/skoda-parts manufacturer diagrams. They show the complete rear in exploded diagram with part numbers etc. Alasdair

Only problem I had with gunsons that the brake fluid seems to turn the tubing opaque unless washed out afterwards so difficult to see any air bubbles. Apart from that worked well. Just remember to reduce pressure on wheel your using for air. Alasdair

On my sons mk1 1.2htp Gunsons easy bleed kit worked when I did the clutch. Alasdair

If they clear the fault codes then there will be none to read and lights will be off. If its a faulty abs/speed sensor it will create new codes every time it fails and lights come on. If the lights are on get it scanned with vcds. Dont clear any codes first. If its a bad sensor it should tell you which one. It could be a broken wire to a sensor or a failing ABS sensor. It could also be a bad bearing/sensor ring. Alasdair

Its handy when you realize its raining and a window is down but its not so good when it happens as you walk away from car and the key was pressed in my pocket. Came back to carpark with all windows down. Luckily nothing in car worth taking. Alasdair

Sounds like a failing sensor. Maybe Aircon pressure sensor even if AC is off. Next time it happens unplug it and see if fans stop. Alasdair

I do like the Superb. Had a test drive in one a few years back and very nice luxury car but went for the Octavia MK2 1.6tdi instead as it had manual box not dsg. we were needing a car for work as well as play but seriously considering one after my MK2 diesel dies. Reckon on petrol this time as not doing the long mileage and short runs are death to the DPF. Would love the VR6 but reckon I would be in big big trouble and doubt I could afford a MK3. From memory they are slightly longer than the octavia. Good luck with the search Alasdair

Might be worth either getting them to charge battery or borrow a known good one/get garage to jump it and get it rescanned. If its the battery then your needing a new one but it could be wiring issues/earth issues/BCM ECU etc which may be expensive and difficult to diagnose. The speaker may be just a broken wire in door The heated seat I think its the left seat according to code. It may be the connection has been pulled under seat perhaps when cleaning etc. Read that the drivers seat will stop as well. Alasdair

If the handbrake cable is loose then you can get uneven braking especially if there is a difference in cable length. Also if the handbrake cable was sticking it has probably done the same again or perhaps the adjuster in drum isn;t working (Mk1 I find are prone to not adjust properly when worn). Not a bad MOT fail though. Neighbour just failed on his and its onto the second page!! Alasdair