J.R.

I did mine when I got the vehicle, it had 79K miles and being a fleet vehicle I doubt it had ever been done before, it was functioning, filter claggy like most. Time has flown by and I have done a further 55K miles, its still functioning correctly but overdue for another oil change, this time I wont get the drain plugs mixed up and drive with a dry differential!!!! I will also change the diff oil again, last time after the abuse I flushed it with oil and paraffin after running it on axle stands, filled with diff oil, drove 50km and drained and filled again, both times black oil, it will be changed again now and hopefully there will not be significant metallic particles and I will have dodged a bullet, for 55k miles I have listened to the noisy diff expecting it to let go but it hasnt. I got the Haldex fluid quite cheap direct from Mannol around €6 something plus TVA for 850ml plus delivery, I bought 2 and I also bought 4 litres of diff oil and 10l of gearbox/hydraulic fluid for the tractor, the whole lot for under €100 inc delivery which is cheap for France.

Are you going to create a club?

Ebay sellers will clone your existing key for a lot less, IIRC I paid £40 or £50 for two keys cut, programmed and made to work through jiggery-pokery via the OBD port, it was done at the guys house so no photographing keys and worrying if the new one comes through the post, fits the locks and starts the car, it was however a very very dodgy area, the guy disappeared inside what looked like a squat with my only key leaving me wondering "what the feck do I do if he has walked straight out the back door?" There is a hypothetical security risk that the original missing key might fall into criminal hands and your car be stolen, no risk in my case and its for you to decide on yours. The main dealer procedure provides a unique key not cloned and prevents the missing one from ever starting the vehicle.

How many thousands of years are you planning to live? I have dived on WW2 Jeeps and troop carriers at Million Dollar point and the tyres were still inflated even though there were gaping rusted holes in the rims, ditto in the cargo hold of the President Coolidge at 67m, most tyres still had the full amount of air although reduced volume due to the 6.7 bar external pressure. No need to imagine when you have Boyles law, the weight of the air were you to find a scientific instrument capable of measuring such a small amount in the tyre inflated to 2 bar guage pressure = 3 bar absolute would be 3 times the weight of the air in the deflated tyre at 1 bar atmospheric pressure. You should be using volume not weight. Why are you concerned about moisture content?

£1000 for a set of tyres, is that what people are paying now? 🤯 I have run part worns since 2004 and my budget has always been £25 per corner fitted for 4 matching tyres with 3/4 tread depth that were evenly worn, the last bit being the most important, that avenue is now closed to me and paying €400 came as a real shock but £1000/€1160 😬

I have just replaced the Hankook Prime 3 tyres that were part worn on my 4WD Yeti when I bought it, I got a further 55000 miles out of then which I consider excellent considering the 4WD and also the many thousands of miles of removal journeys towing very heavy trailers. I have replaced them with........................................................ Hankook Prime 3 tyres!!!! €98 per corner considerably less than your quote yet the 60 profile tyre will have a lot more rubber. Head office maybe but all tyre companies are multi-national now and manufacture where the cost is least, most of the smaller less known companies are owned by the bigger ones, the Hankooks I replaced were made in Malaysia, the new ones made in Hungary. Identical tyres from identical moulds.

We have a name for that in my country "Pigeon" willing victim is the exact definition, how the phrase came about is rather unpleasant.

Been there done that got the T shirt, bought mine as a write off due to airbag deployment. I even panicked and asked the question regarding the 3KRPM rev limit (think it was 2.5K), that is normal and the wheels need to be turning even just at a crawl for the engine to rev higher. Regarding the airbags you have 2 issues. The airbags you have fitted probably are not compatible, one has too high a resistance and the other possibly a short to ground but could be too low a resistance. Even with the correct airbags the controller will need to be replaced or you can have your old one sent away to have the crash data erased and its NVM reset, it could be that with that done these error codes go away.

I saved this a couple of days ago, this seems an appropriate time to post it: https://amp-theguardian-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/amp.theguardian.com/money/2024/apr/17/renault-repair-zoe-heater-car?amp_js_v=0.1&_gsa=1#webview=1 The relevant bit is the last paragraph with the photo of a slightly damaged bumper on an Octavia Estate but the rest of the article is of interest and on topic.

However you have got me thinking, I need a more effective beadbreaker than the one on my tyre changing rig and I happen to have a vacuum pump!

Purge with what? The only way to remove most of the air is to pull a vacuum and they don't do that because the tyre would unseat from the bead after contorting so much that the plies would break.

The time constant certainly is known to the Controller and the system reacts very fast to a puncture or deflating tyre, it also reacts very well to slow punctures, I lingered on with one for the last year to get the maximum life out of my old tyres and it would remind me 10 days after I last reinflated the tyre, I would do a visual check then ignore it and do a reset, after about another 7 days the 2nd warning and by then the tyre warranted reinflating, it was remarkably consistent. Today I removed the winter wheels I had been driving on while fitting my new tyres, they had no punctures and were correctly inflated, I fitted the new ones correctly inflated, significant difference in rolling diameters between the worn 205/55/16s and the new 215/60/16s but each set all 4 tyres the same rolling diameter, I forgot to reset the TPMS and drove 8 miles without a TPMS warning whereupon I did a reset. For a simple yet highly reliable system it is very accurate indeed. If you dont believe me and still think it is slow to react then let down one of your tyres partially and drive away, you probably wont even get into second gear or have straightened out the steering wheel before you get a warning.

The forces are a function of velocity and curve radius irrespective of angle of inclination. The same principal as you leaning forward into the wind at an angle where you would otherwise topple over without the wind force.

So the thieves drove the vehicle away using the key that you had left in the vehicle then. You were very lucky that the insurers paid out, did they know about the key being left in the vehicle? If not they may well do when the court case is heard.

To the OP, please be wary of fitting a wheel and tyre combination other than the ones that are homologated by the manufacturer and that especially includes the speed and weight rating, whilst the risk of prosecution is tiny your insurers may use it against you in the event of a major claim and the vehicle may fail an MOT test

Not so, look at the EU certificate of conformity and you will see all the wheel and tyre size combinations thatare approved to be fitted to your vehicle. My vehicle can run 205/55/16" (my winter wheels) or 215/60/16" "if you did not change the the wheel size the car would not be doing the speed your Speedo was showing" I doubt that one in a million owners of newer vehicles fitted with the approved tyre sizes has a speedometer that shows the exact speed the vehicle is doing, it would be on the cusp of illegality, all speedos have to over-read within prescribed limits, the lower one being the actual speed The speedometer over-reads on both sets of tyres, by about 8% on the winter ones.

"The issue is whether you have to replace the sensor or the entire unit" So you would replace an expensive catastrophic convertor in the belief that the exhaust gases could only heat it to 32°C? If you do please let me have the old one to use as a fridge!

I have just fitted 4 new tyres myself using my manual tyre changing rig, I wont know if they need balancing until a test drive but I did notice something interesting and encouraging. Whenever I have had tyres fitted by garages they never bother aligning the white/yellow marker signifying the lightest part of the tyre with the tyre valve (the heaviest part of the wheel), they then balance the wheel usually after ripping off all the old balance weights, touch wood to date whenever I have fitted my own tyres they have not needed balancing. This time I cleaned up the rims after removing the old tyres using a phosphoric and hydrochloric acid mix, I did the outside of the wheels but also the inner rims and discovered that they were not lacquered like the outside (no surprise) and still had the original white painted factory balance weights fitted, all the ones I have seen tyre fitters use have been plain lead. The car has had probably 2 sets of tyres before, the factory ones and nearly new Kumhos when I bought it at 77K miles, this means at the very least there was no balancing done on the last set of tyres and the original balance weights were left in position, during the 55K miles I did on those tyres there was never and wheel vibration. It was owned and maintained by a fleet operator (possibly Forest Rangers, Coastguard or the like) so I can well see them not wasting money on wheel balancing unless it was necessary. Now I am wondering whether the factory or the factory wheel and tyre supplier balances the rims before fitting good quality tyres with the yellow dot correctly aligned and only add more balance weights if necessary? I will have more of an idea once I have driven on the wheels. So my question is: Is it really the wheels that are being balanced or are the tyres the greater imbalance force? One of the tyres did not have a coloured dot which I took to mean it did not have any measurable imbalance.

I bought a manual tyre changer years ago and have used it on trailer wheels and race car wheels but nothing as large and easily damaged as the Yeti wheels. After 55k miles on the tyres that were on it when I bought the car it was time to change them, as the Kumhos had done so well I replaced them with exactly the same tyre still being made although in Hungary now and not Malaysia. Knowing that using the long yet ineffective tyre lever would damage the alloy rims I fabricated a conversion kit to allow the use of a "duckbill head" from a garage tyre machine following the example of a Youtube video and it made a big difference. The steel sections available to me were not thick walled and as a consequence there is some deflection, it works very well fitting the tyres but removal is a bit more of a challenge, in both cases by the 4th rim I had worked out how to do it but will have forgotten the next time, by far the hardest part was breaking the beads especially on the inside rim which does not have a well beside it just a lip and then slowly tapering down to the well for the outside rim, I definitely will not be using the beadbreaker on the machine again and will buy one of the screw operated ones sold by Vevor as my next investment, maybe a balancer as well but we will see if there is any imbalance in these tyres first, - another thread. All in all very hard physical work, a lot of time spent but very satisfying, I used to change car tyres on the floor using tyre levers, not only am I no longer up for that but modern rim sizes, and mine were relatively small at 16" would be impossible without a waist level machine, a duckbill head and lots of leverage. I did not have any tyre lube so improvised, I used duck fat from Confit de Canard!!! Once cooked and eaten you are left with a large tin half full of very clear solid at room temperature fat like Tallow but creamier, perfect for the workshop!

Were you never one yourself? I try not to forget what I once was especially when I was having an exchange with the abruti on the unregistered uninsured unsilenced Motocross bike who had been buzzing our commune every evening stopping by most houses to rev up his engine then screech off to do the same 40m further on (the width of most plots) time and time again for hours on end. He had a very unfortunate accident colliding with my wheelbarrow that was accidentally propelled across the single track road , as I explained to him it is a zone 30, pedestrians have priority, I am blind in my left eye and when I heard him bearing down on me I panicked and ran backwards throwing my hands up in fear which propelled the wheelbarrow forwards, very unfortunate for him that I should have chosen that exact moment to cross the road after waiting patiently so long 😁

Let me guess, you are repeating what a mechanic has told you?

Interesting to read my comment from last year, I had forgotten about it. We have a very pro-active Maire here, since my posting he has installed a "radar pedagogique" a solar powered speed camera mounted on a pole with a concrete block base, it detects vehicles approaching and flashes the speed limit, it then flashes their speed in red if above the limit and green if below, the intention was to "sensibilise" drivers whilst gathering data to be used to decide whether to make my road a Zone 30 (30kph speed limit pedestrians have priority) and possible traffic calming measures. 2 weeks later the previous 50km/h limit was scrapped and it became a zone 30, so far it has not made a lot of difference but if the traffic calming comes in it should do, I am going to ask that the speed camera be moved to the other end of the road just beyond my house to record vehicles coming from the other direction as they approach much faster from there due to having to negotiate a junction to approach from the main road.

I'm pretty sure it cannot be turned off, I dont have it on my current vehicle but on the ones before the only option was a switch with AC and MAN settings IIRC.

What are the brake disc backplates like? They are usually the first thing to self compost.

I would not trust that pipe even for brake bleeding, did I recall you saying the vehicle no longer has an MOT? I think you should get a failure certificate to see what you are up against before spending any more on bling, I have started looking at the photos now (I didn't before as there were so many) and the vehicle looks to be Johnny Rotten, I have never seen another anywhere near that bad. The previous models underwent hundreds of hours of salt spray testing with barely a hint of rust at the end. Perhaps it was one they used for the salt spray testing that wasn't scrapped?