J.R.

Yes its the sticker used on batteries delivered to the production line which industry insiders all agree are made to a higher standard (for warranty purposes) than the same battery sold on the aftermarket or even bought from VAG. It's a good un so look after it, I hope you left it running for 15 minutes after starting as it sounded like it only just had enough oompf to start the vehicle.

You already paraphrased my opinion!

Is the steering any heavier at a standstill or only when driving? If the latter then I think you have missed the significance of these two very incisive comments: Does anyone know what the correct castor setting should be?

It would certainly have the length, an excess in fact, the shape of the tailgate is likely to be different.

Ah! the penny has dropped for me!

Compared to the prices I have seen on here and elsewhere recently I would say that the car is a steal at that price for a low mileage 4x4 with good service history and the protection that you (supposedly) get when buying from a dealer. I'm not surprised the dealer would not move on the price, I reckon it will sell quickly.

Yes, underneath from front with undertray off or from above using a mirror and/or cameraphone. I take anything written on a service report with a large pinch of salt, just been responding to a posting about a Haldex filter reportedly covered in swarf and a £4k estimate to fix it which was completely fictional. £20 is definitely worth a punt, you might then find that the AC has no gas and that the condensor was indeed leaking but £20 is not several hundred for a new pump.

There will be a silver label with the VAG part number visible on the side of the compressor which I think also identifies the OE manufacturer. I have had 3 of them apart, Sanden and another make, they had the same spindles and the pulleys were interchangeable. If you know the make of yours then you will have more chance of finding a compatible aftermarket part, VAG and the compressor manufacturers do not sell them seperately. For them to shear or in your case shred there has usually been something blocking the compressor rotation, I did mine through inexperience learning by mistakes, I was recharging with R134a and had not realised it was a long process so inverted the cylinder, I should have closed down the filling valve to the minimum as I ended up hydrolocking the pump, the shear plate rattled afterwards (rivets loosened) and failed a couple of weeks later.

That looks absolutely par for the course on a 12 year old Yeti, I doubt that you will find a better one. The jacking point is not rotten the underseal has just been damaged in use, probably by a trolley jack and surface rust appeared. The door bottoms suffer from zinc inclusion corrosion spots, mine has them but they have not got any worse over the last 5 years.

Thats confusing, do you have one that you want to convert or do you not have one? I thought the MK2 only came with the retractable parcel shelf as did the MK1, I'm not aware of a solid version, others will confirm or correct me but if I am right then I would expect the rear side trims to be compatible. I hate the solid shelf in my Yeti, well its not in as its been banished to the shed, I would much rather a roller blind retractable one like they fit in the Asian markets.

Outright lies from main dealers on the make. I made the classic "wrong hole" mistake when replacing the Haldex fluid, I ran the differential dry of oil for about 350 miles 200 of which an motorways and autoroutes, the tiny bit of oil remaining came out like charcoal as did the next 2 flushes of 50/50 oil and paraffin but there was no metal swarf. Haldex filters get covered in schmoo but not swarf, there is nothing in the multi-plate clutch hydraulic system to create it, its just another lie trotted out by main dealers like "front and rear brake pads and discs 75% worn" who do not even have the intelligence to realise how implausible their lies are.

To save me reading back through all the postings, have you ever actually measured the coolant temperature after driving several miles with either an old school mercury bulb thermometer or an infra-red one? All I have read is assumptions that it must be overcooling because of what the dashboard temperature gauge or diagnostic tool says it is not what the actual temperature is.

It can be done.

Hose from exhaust tapping to DPF pressure sensor leaking?

Bevel drive to the rear propshaft likely candidate. Can you see any oil laying on the undertray at the rear of the engine or dripping down from it?

Harsh environment, even when you get a decent tool you may find you have hampered yourself with the damage done using the pipe wrench. B&Q is not the place I would be looking for a higher quality tool after another has failed. Was it a split socket you used or were you able to disconnect the cable? 6 point or 12 point?

Good on you Pete I think you have read the situation well, it's not so much fixing any issues but giving a verdict that will restore confidence with the OP. I wish I could surround myself with people like you!

I forgot the injectors, that could be more significant.

Absolutely not especially as there is nothing that can replace a Roomster. You need some very simple cheap repairs, anything more modern is going to need complicated and expensive attention I get the impression that you are looking for validation to get rid of it, you picked the wrong place, we are fond of Roomsters here even those of us who have never owned one!

Thankyou for that, now you have had your free kick how about answering my question and explaining what the purpose of the blue low temperature light is please? I understand it has one, I understand the conditions when it is illuminated but am still at a loss as to the intended purpose. You call it a warning light, a warning of what?

A fuse or a faulty fuse will not cause a battery discharge. To the OP, why are you asking about a "main fuse"?

Is there such a thing as a "low temperature light" then? What is its purpose? - A serious question.

Condensation, probably normal. I think you should stop chasing phantoms and concentrate on the job in hand, the charging system then worry about things like the temperature warning light which should not be doing what it is but is unrelated. Alternator likely to be worn brushes (new regulator required, easy cheap job) or a bad connection possibly a fracture in the wiring. At 13 years old and 155K miles my money is on worn/sticking brushes, you might be able to gain a little time and miles by freeing them off.

Die in your sleep from hypothermia? Sleeping during the night shift is the original working (not) from home 😄

Don't take anything as gospel in case it sends you down a false path, the guy should know a coolant warning light when he sees one but may have been mistaken, coming on at start up can only be low coolant level, level sender failure or the plug disconnected. You should start by establishing if the battery is charging (after checking and topping up coolant if required) then get the engine up to temperature checking for leaks and overheating.