rum4mo

There is a taper/bowled/lead-in section at the end of the contact tube, so I think the intention is to run a ring of "stuff" in/round that depression, when you remove the spark plugs, you tend to find very slight traces of that stuff at the lower end of the ceramic - that, I think, is where I got the original stuff along with on the end of the contact tube, and redistributed it back around/inside that area of the contact tube - for reuse, until I eventually got round to buying the Prematex.

Or an older VW Passat 4Motion or similar Skoda Superb like round about 2000 - the ones based around B5 Audi A4. Finding one with not too much rust might be an issue

I have not checked the price of that, but as usual "special" greases etc do tend to be priced quite high by VAG UK or maybe even VW Group AG. Stops the riff raff from getting ideas? Edit:- I've gone and added a comment to my last posting - again!

After making my last posting on this topic, I went looking for the "stuff" that the youtuber used, and put it on my ebay watch list - then went back to check it closely, it is Liquid Moly's offering for use on injectors and glow plugs - from that intended use I'm guessing that it is a high temperature anti seize paste for use on metal-metal threaded parts so that removing them can be a bit more predictable/possible/easy. So, now I'll remove that from my "might buy for this job" as it might not "agree" with the plastic/rubber contact extension's body and that would be counterproductive next time round. It was Permatex ignition grease that I bought and used, it has now gone into hiding in my "organised" garage - I must sort that out and return it to where it should have been stored - or buy in another small tube of it! Edit:- also showing people how to use a ratchet and/or torque wrench single handed is not being too clever, better if he used a stand for his camera so that proper ways of using tools could be employed.

I'll own up to being a bit stupid/trying to do the right thing, and bought a small tube of a "bespoke" dielectric grease for doing that job (for tuning up ignition systems!) ! My 20 years old tube of "expired by use date" from work, that I use on the front calliper guide bolts would probably done the job just as well. Just one thing, first time round, I "recovered" as much as possible of the grease from the old plug and each extension contact, and re-applied it on the correct areas. That original grease was white in colour - maybe that colouring is added in to improve quality inspection on the assembly line - ie visibility - or maybe something more important, I don't know. I could see me buying tube of that Silverhook silicon grease when my current old tube refuses to part with any more grease, I think Toolstation or Screwfix sell it.

Just an observation, the puller tool that the OP posted the Amazon link for, has been assembled correctly, the asttools.co.uk tool the guy on the video used has the "finger grip" bar fitted up side down. Edit:- someone once mentioned stuffing compressed down the extension contact to convince it to give up its grip, I've done that job only 3 times and so far so good - ie no issues with lifting the coils up.

The only Torsen controlled VW Group 4X4 are the ones with North<>South engine installations. So that means all East<>West, or transverse engined VW Group cars are Haldex controlled.

I've just had a look under the bonnet of my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS and it has stayed a lot "drier" than your car - in that area, I did not remove that charge pipe when I replaced the spark plugs 2 years ago, so maybe this weeping has slowed down since I last replaced these O-ring seals back in 2019!. There is an O-ring sealing washer at both ends of that charge pipe, and the official instruction in the workshop manual is renew them after removing the charge pipe. The VW Group P/Ns are WHT 001 386 and WHT 003 247

I think that that is as good as it gets with some of these 1.2TSI 16V engines, my wife's 2015 Polo was clean down there - that is the throttle body - or throttle valve, and it is the oil mist in the turbo output that is weeping out at that point, until I removed that pipe to replace the spark plugs at the 4 years service point in its life, since then, that area has remained damp with oil. Edit:- I did fit a new O-ring washer! My thoughts are, as road salt chunks can end up being thrown into that area, you can get corrosion forming on the aluminium top of the throttle body, and usually that corrosion can track down over the face of where the sealing O-ring is located, so game over from then on. I've scrubbed that area once to try to stop that oil mist weeping out at that area, but it still escapes. On that 2015 Polo, there is not much in the way of engine oil reaching that area, when you take that plastic charge pipe off, you should only ever see a few drops of oil dripping out - any more than that and there is a problem somewhere. Looking back, maybe I did not need to remove that charge pipe to get the coil of maybe cylinder 4, and if so, maybe oil would never have started leaking from there - very annoying!

Maybe a worthless post on your question, but I've done that job on a 2015 VW Polo - and also needed to replace the black frame and cover! The repeater lens is a complete assembly with the repeater inside it, easy enough to replace and not too expensive. I'd think that you will be able to find "how to do it" using Google, if not for Fabia I'd think that there will be one for same age Polo with not much difference. Sorry not an exact answer, but maybe something to work on.

I had this issue with a 2009 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 16V, at that point in time, there had been issues with a few cars, typically cars with the 1.4 16V petrol engine, the root cause ended up being an error or issue with the coding of the BCM (Body Control Module), that is the controller that forces power users to sleep when the engine is switched off - and many other functions. Getting a SEAT dealership to accept what I had worked out it must be, was tricky as visibility of this issue, by 2016/2017 had been lost at dealership level, so a request for help to locate the patch was lodged by my second SEAT dealership to SEAT mothership - that sorted out that problem. Before you try chasing that down, maybe disconnect the alternator output lead and insulate it, just in case your problem is a leaky rectifier stack - or other alternator issues. Many many other possible wiring issues or component issues can also cause this sort of thing, it seems that any electrical noise within the car wiring, will tend to wake up sleeping controllers even if the BCM S/W is okay. I know how annoying it can get when going out to the car after 3 or 4 days and not knowing if it will start, I was lucky as it was a spare car at the time, but it was still blinking annoying and I couldn't just live with it! That second SEAT dealership had just had to sort out a similar aged VW Polo 1.4 16V with that issue - which was lucky for me otherwise I might have had to give up on it!

Oil filler caps going stiff, yes, typical, usually the sealing washer has gone hard - possibly can't buy new sealing washers by themselves nowadays. Dip sticks also can be a part that get stiff too quickly, the 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra that my older daughter has owned from new - when I changed the oil last year, one of the 2 clips/grips on the dip stick broke off and escaped so that is that. On her early 2002 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 8V, it was the orange dip stick tube that deformed with age - went from round to oval, so that needed changing to make removing the dip stick an easyish task. I never had that issue with my wife's 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V which looked slightly similar in that area - maybe SEAT sourced local (Spain) parts that were not quite good enough, though I don't know which marque controlled the engine plant for that old engine in Ibiza, possibly VW in Germany but that is just a guess.

Moody Blues, yes they are okay, wife probably still worships them or their past output.

Yup, not so clever German engineering - but then what did BMC and later named company ever get slightly right, they were used only because there was not much else to pick from other than Civil Service Car Company. I'm lucky, I managed to avoid that rubbish, even Fix Or Replace Daily cars/vans, before they rusted away, were more "suitable". I suppose if UK had been able to claim the big 3 German car makers after the war as reparations, we would have destroyed them - maybe just as well they escaped that fate or our choices would have been a lot narrower than they are.

A couple of comments, first, make sure that any nuts, bolts or threaded bar you buy that is going to be connected to your car, has the correct thread pitch, in this case that is not a problem, but in some other areas it will be. VW Group supplies hollow plastic wheel locating threaded dowels in the tool kit of some models, and a solid aluminium longer version - with a smooth but tapered end, both versions have a cross drilled hole - that will be to put a bar through it to make removing it easier, in the tool kits of the biggest/heaviest models. The first VW Group car that I bought new that had a plastic one in its tool kit was a 2000 VW Passat 4Motion, for some maybe strange reason, that car did not have a disc securing screw on the front hubs - or even a hole in the disc for a screw, so that plastic threaded dowel was more or less essential to keep "things lined up" when changing wheels. I'd rather not want to think about needing to change a front wheel at the side of the road and needing to fight with lining the disc with the holes in the hub and the wheel up before I could get a bolt in without having a threaded locating dowel in place. Edit:- what I missed saying was, the quality/strength of the steel is not very important, I've been using hollow plastic and aluminium wheel locating threaded dowels for almost 25 years - the same ones kept as "tools/aids" in my garage, and they are still fit for use.

Yes, using the official workshop manual recommends the volumes of brake fluid that should be removed at each wheel brake, and so if auto trans, 1 litre is exactly what is required, but that could leave you being a bit short if you mess up doing this job. I've always got away with using 1 litre per car but I probably deviate slightly with how much I remove from individual wheel brakes on a manual trans car, without changing the fluid within the clutch lines. The recommended brake fluid is referred to as being DOT4 Low Viscosity, so sold as DOT4 ESP or similarly named, ordinary DOT4 is still being sold and is cheaper, but that is not compliant with what VW Group recommend. I tend to begin with the brake furthest away from the ABS brake valve block and work my way to the shortest, and I've never had any problems with changing fluid. Edit:- I tend to remove more than recommended volume from the first brake as I am removing the remainder of fluid from the reservoir plus the fluid in the longest pipe run. This thread could be hit with many many people offering their own way of doing this, just the way it is!

I've just added to my previous posting - sorry!

Maybe to get better replies, can you confirm if this an early chain driven cam shaft 8V engine, or the later belt driven 16V engine - I know SEAT were a bit slow in changing over to the later engine in some small cars? Turbo/exhaust at the front = early chain driven cam shaft 8V engine. Edit:- as VCDS is not seeing/reporting any issues, I'd think that it is not any crankshaft sensor, so maybe engine coolant temperature is giving out wrong values but they are still within the expected temperature window. The fuel tank purging system might need checking as well.

The only VW Group technical bulletin that I've read online, was published by VW America which covers all of the VW Group products sold in USA and Canada - does not include any recovery action for distorted HP fuel rails on this family of engine, just REPLACE. I'd still think that it is the repeated hammering action of the fuel injector "firing" after a bolt head has sheared off due to that bolt slackening off due to not been torqued correctly. I'd hate to think that over a certain period in time, some of these HP fuel rails were manufactured "incorrectly" - and that is the root cause of all these issues, but never say never I suppose.

The bending of that metal will have been caused by the bolt(s) slackening off. I’d think that the cylinder head will be okay. From memory, the first test/check that VW America request is done on an engine that is within the “problem “ production period but not yet failed, is to attempt to insert a piece of printer paper under each of these metal flanges, if that can’t be done, then “all is good” and only the 4 bolts need replacing and correctly torqued up.

I think that that engine's build date would fall into the period where this shocking build error occurred, I'm sure that there is an actual date on the paper label on the top cover for the drive belt, ie at the top RHS of the engine. Skoda seemed to acknowledge that this occurred in some markets with better consumer protection and took appropriate action, ie check all stocks of new and held used cars covering a certain period in time, and repair as or if necessary, probably even contacted first owners, not good enough for us though, VW Group had chatted to DVSA and I'd think that as DVSA claim (well when I asked them about this as a worried owner of a car with one of these engines they did), that none of this incident or possible incident, triggered any of their flags for forcing a recall or request to attend a workshop for correction, VW Group squeaked out of this need to dig into their war chests - nothing to worry about seems to be their position in UK marketplace.

Sorry to hear that, what is the age or even build date of the engine in your car? As this fault was said to be down to incorrectly set torquing tools in the Skoda engine plant, after a failure and repair, this should never happen again.

Pressing the "auto Stop/Start" button seems to do nothing more than "what it says on the label" battery charging will remain to be limited to when the car is being "driven/powered" along to be only as little as necessary, on the "overrun/unpowered" as much wasted energy as possible will get converted into cramming charge back into the battery to reduce waste/emissions. I (still) seem to glance at my 12V DVM frequently to see "what is going on". Especially on older cars, the health of the battery did tend to dictate how troublesome the car was - I had a 1991 Vauxhall Cav GSI 2000 16V 4X4 (yes all that was on plates on the rear end), its car alarm system was a bit too sensitive or just badly designed, when the car's 12V battery was more than 4 years old, the alarm tended to do off frequently. Replacing the battery solved that for the next 4 or 5 years, a bit annoying but proved to be an easy fix! To avoid changing the battery too early, or just to monitor things after the first "false alarm", I fitted a low value fuse in line with the alarm system, when the system was working, if you placed your ear close to the windscreen end of the LHS of the bonnet, you would hear a ticking, like a heart beat - that would be a very low voltage pulse getting sent out to the alarm horn - if there was no very quiet ticking, I knew that the alarm had gone off and blown that fuse - so I quickly managed to disturbance down to a minimum, while making sure that that car was safe to leave parked when away from home, I'd only use the inline fuse when it was only being used for commuting and in a very secure company car park - which was probably 90% of its life, like my current car, only used for longer trips away and holidays - wife's car gets used for all local use.

Remember to check if your chosen fixer is happy to use your supplied parts, many don't nowadays claiming their insurance stops them working that way, a bit annoying but such is life.

What discovered with this "size" of VW Group car - in my case, a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT, is, if the car makes the odd or even frequent suspension noises, for a longish period in time, after I've had it up in the air on 4 jack stands, just for brake servicing and/or swopping Summer/Winter wheels/tyres, the suspension becomes free from any noises. Top mountings, hum, in this age/version of car, the top mounts are just located/sitting in, an inverted cup and have a large washer, ie retainer under the top nut - to avoid these top mountings from escaping if you ended up doing something completely crazy when driving that car. Earlier and later versions have the top mountings bolted onto a flat area of the body. I've tended to consider that it might be a smart idea to remove the top nut on both sides, then lift the car up enough to create a space between the top mounting rubbers, and then get some talc powder in there to act as a lubricant, then lower the car down, fit the large washer/retainer plates back on and new self locking nuts - and see if that quietens the front end down. Note:- I replaced the front struts, springs, bearings and top mountings on my wife's 2015 Polo last year, and this winter it does, for the first few speed bumps when cold, make these noises, the new top mountings were sourced from VW and they didn't look like there was any "treatment" applied to the outer surfaces that contact these inverted cups, and there is no instruction to apply anything like talc powder to them before fitting them - but there again, why or what made VW Group dump this form of top mounting when they replaced this version of these cars- maybe having to deal with too many complaints/rework while under warranty.