rum4mo

Sorry to hear that, what is the age or even build date of the engine in your car? As this fault was said to be down to incorrectly set torquing tools in the Skoda engine plant, after a failure and repair, this should never happen again.

Pressing the "auto Stop/Start" button seems to do nothing more than "what it says on the label" battery charging will remain to be limited to when the car is being "driven/powered" along to be only as little as necessary, on the "overrun/unpowered" as much wasted energy as possible will get converted into cramming charge back into the battery to reduce waste/emissions. I (still) seem to glance at my 12V DVM frequently to see "what is going on". Especially on older cars, the health of the battery did tend to dictate how troublesome the car was - I had a 1991 Vauxhall Cav GSI 2000 16V 4X4 (yes all that was on plates on the rear end), its car alarm system was a bit too sensitive or just badly designed, when the car's 12V battery was more than 4 years old, the alarm tended to do off frequently. Replacing the battery solved that for the next 4 or 5 years, a bit annoying but proved to be an easy fix! To avoid changing the battery too early, or just to monitor things after the first "false alarm", I fitted a low value fuse in line with the alarm system, when the system was working, if you placed your ear close to the windscreen end of the LHS of the bonnet, you would hear a ticking, like a heart beat - that would be a very low voltage pulse getting sent out to the alarm horn - if there was no very quiet ticking, I knew that the alarm had gone off and blown that fuse - so I quickly managed to disturbance down to a minimum, while making sure that that car was safe to leave parked when away from home, I'd only use the inline fuse when it was only being used for commuting and in a very secure company car park - which was probably 90% of its life, like my current car, only used for longer trips away and holidays - wife's car gets used for all local use.

Remember to check if your chosen fixer is happy to use your supplied parts, many don't nowadays claiming their insurance stops them working that way, a bit annoying but such is life.

What discovered with this "size" of VW Group car - in my case, a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT, is, if the car makes the odd or even frequent suspension noises, for a longish period in time, after I've had it up in the air on 4 jack stands, just for brake servicing and/or swopping Summer/Winter wheels/tyres, the suspension becomes free from any noises. Top mountings, hum, in this age/version of car, the top mounts are just located/sitting in, an inverted cup and have a large washer, ie retainer under the top nut - to avoid these top mountings from escaping if you ended up doing something completely crazy when driving that car. Earlier and later versions have the top mountings bolted onto a flat area of the body. I've tended to consider that it might be a smart idea to remove the top nut on both sides, then lift the car up enough to create a space between the top mounting rubbers, and then get some talc powder in there to act as a lubricant, then lower the car down, fit the large washer/retainer plates back on and new self locking nuts - and see if that quietens the front end down. Note:- I replaced the front struts, springs, bearings and top mountings on my wife's 2015 Polo last year, and this winter it does, for the first few speed bumps when cold, make these noises, the new top mountings were sourced from VW and they didn't look like there was any "treatment" applied to the outer surfaces that contact these inverted cups, and there is no instruction to apply anything like talc powder to them before fitting them - but there again, why or what made VW Group dump this form of top mounting when they replaced this version of these cars- maybe having to deal with too many complaints/rework while under warranty.

I sourced new front bearing assembles from AutoDoc - F A G 713 6104 70 and bought a cheap (China sourced probably) tool that is for 72mm bearings, that worked out fine, I just replaced both sides, I managed to avoid trashing the LHS ABS sensor but was not so lucky on the RHS. Paid too much at that time for a new Bosch sensor from ECP, better to source them from somewhere like PIM or similar, lesson learned so maybe avoid that error!

So, it is the front brakes option that you are asking about, I'd think that it will be 1ZC - check the front callipers, if they have a vertical anti rattle spring fitted, then they will be 288mm discs and so PR-1ZC. If on the hand, there is no vertical anti rattle spring fitted then they will be Mando equivalent of FSIII.

Yes, that did catch me out the first few times my wife's 2015 VW Polo issued what turned out to be "ghost" low pressure warnings, the initial maybe shock, distracts you from immediately homing in on the message details being given out - then it vanishes!

I've also got this noise, mainly since replacing the TCA rear bushes and struts, springs and top mounts, I'd think that some of this is coming from the design of the front top mountings, the car just sits on the top mounts, they are rubber located in inverted "cups", I'd think that dusting them with talc etc might resolve this for a while. Annoyingly, I'm convinced that the rears also make this noise - again only when cold and for the first few miles - new rear dampers and springs were also fitted but I didn't replace the rear top mountings. The newer versions of these cars have reverted to the previous design of top mountings for the front struts - I wonder why?

Personally, unless I could or would be using that oil at the rate of 10litres a year, and it was new stock when I bought it, I would not have saved some money buying it in bulk. I just buy 3 x 5 litres and 3 x 1 litres every year - okay maybe I should be buying just 4 x 5 litres, anyway, that is for 3 VW Group cars, the stored "top up" litre bottles from one year are used in each car the next year etc. Motor mower, sadly that is a different story, although I have stopped buying that "ahead" now. You'll probably use up all that oil while it is within its "shelf life" but maybe it should get decanted into empty 5 litre containers and sealed up. Car engine oils seem to subject to "being improved" so that is another reason that I don't keep stocks of new engine oils. I try to start looking out for good oil deals in maybe December for August/September services - failed on that task this year so far, must start soon!

The driver's door is certainly the "master door", so I tend to open that quickly - and probably just close it again after I've unlocked the car (2015 VW Polo) if I don't want anything silly happening. Too often in recent years I've parked to drop my wife off at shops, she grabs bags out of the boot, then I've forgotten to open>close the driver's door, so my wife gets back from shopping, she gets a bit annoyed when she finds the boot locked has re-locked itself.

If you are "up for it", you could buy in a set of dust seals and calliper - piston seals, and get the piston out and see if you can polish it clean again. I've suffered a seizing rear calliper on a 2015 VW Polo a couple of years ago, which was a bit disappointing, due to wanting to get the car back running asap, I just bought a re-manufactured Pagid Lucas/TRW calliper via Halfords, then got round to buying in a couple of seal kits and some new aluminium fluid line sealing washers - I really should complete that job this year as if one side had ended up corroding its piston, then the other side must be doing the same thing! I've bought, maybe M16 nuts to act as spacers, so that I can secure the brake discs snuggly on the hub using either wheel bolts or other suitable bolts, so that I can check the discs for "run out". Grooved discs, I bought them for one car as it suffered "brake wash out" in winter, which was a bit scary and VW sorted that out with later models, but, I did end up finding the need to replace one axle set of ATE Power Discs just because corrosion had started to "range out" from each of the grooves probably due to that car only getting used once every 4 weeks in winter, as I was in a "car share" for commuting to work! That was a bit more than annoying.

One way to remove the sheared off section, seems to be to heat up a suitable sized chip board screw "as it has big deep threads" and force that down into the remains of that sensor, then add in 1/2 a turn or so of rotation. Cool that area back down using maybe ice-water, to improve the chances of shocking the plastic away from the metal hub carrier, then when cold, grab the screw and pull it up and so out. I've bought Bosch replacement ABS sensors for my cars in the past, the first one was needed when I "bent" the end of a front one on a 2015 Polo when pulling out the bearing assembly, one side I got off with, the other side not so lucky! Next time was my 2011 Audi S4, in that one, I ended up with an ABS fault - front RHS wheel sensor, now, on that one I used an old "brake wear indicator lead" as a test lead, and that ABS sensor's resistance had dropped to 1.4KOhms - for that car they tend to be roughly 500KOhms, and few days later I measured it again, it was 0.7Ohms! So, in that case I've worked out(after checking the surface of the newly fitted ABS sensor), that, as said on advice given to me on another forum, the inner surface of the bearing is probably corroded and is pushing the magnetic strip out and it is now in contact with the "finger" of the ABS sensor, so this replacing this sensor won me an MOT, but is not the final fix - that is yet to happen when the weather gets warmer! I've made up a tool to help remove these sensors, I've made up a 6mm version and a 5mm version - just in case one size suits this situation better than the other. Other ways to remove them seems to be just drilling a suitable sized hole, taking care not to drill down too deep - your new ABS sensor will guide you on that, then screw in a suitable sized chip board screw, then yank it out. Apply some non conducting grease to the upper end of the new ABS sensor so that it will be easier to remove in the future - if you have to, also, if it will be smart to remove after maybe 100 miles to see if there are any scores on the end of it which would indicate that you have not approached the root cause of this failure - ie it is a wheel bearing issue!

quote:- "I noticed that putting the key in buttons up/Skoda badge facing down the fob fouls the door pull just by a couple of mm so the key will not fully insert and work. Hope this observation may help someone. " Noted for the future, thanks, I really should check the lock barrel operation in my wife's 2015 VW Polo - and my 2011 Audi S4, something that we all could consider doing before we need to use it!

in a way, it is good to see that a repair kit has been developed, as opposed to the usual "change the lot", ie selling and fitting an improved turbo assembly.

There are cheaper options that are similar to the Sealey one - that suits 4 and 5 stud/bolt hubs, I think that I just bought a “no name” one via ebay, a lot like the silver body one that ebay offers when you search for “hub puller”.

If you buy aftermarket parts, yes fixings usually included or some will be, buying VW Group parts, not so, also “16” might only come as “14” - a guess.

I think it was "longer" cars that had return springs fitted as standard when using these callipers, many people, including me, have retro fitted what were originally VW Sharan rear calliper external return springs either to improve things, as on my wife's previous 2002 VW Polo, or at least in my case, bought a new pair of springs and fitted them to my wife's next car - a 2015 VW Polo, and fitted them when the car was brand new, just to make sure that the rear brakes never ended up dragging - though I reckon that at some point, these callipers ended up being fitted with "more suitable" internal return springs, but I've stuck with fitting external return springs. Note:- these alloy callipers will normally end up seizing due to a build up of probably aluminium corrosion ending up on the chromed steel surface of the piston - and that is enough to cause them to jam/seize. That is probably why you had trouble winding that piston back in, ie you have forced the junk back through the sealing ring, I think that I've got away with doing that in the past, on my wife's 2015 VW Polo, the RHS calliper seized and I had to get the car back on the road quickly, so just bought a refurb'd calliper via Halfords (supplied by ECP, a Pagid part). I should really have by now, removed and serviced the LHS including fitting new seal and dust cover, and maybe this summer that will get done, as by my reckoning, once one side has seized, the other side must be getting close to being the same!

I'm surprised that you discovered that VW in SA were building these engines, I thought that it was only 2 Skoda dedicated engine plants in CZ that had/are building these EA211 TSI engines.

50Nm + 45 deg.

That is a nuisance, I had assumed that their digital version was a good product - but now that you have discovered otherwise, I'll not bother considering that option for a workshop manual in the future. I know that at least over the past 10 or so years, newly brought to print Haynes workshop manuals, have dropped off dramatically in terms of including useful content.

Oh, sorry, but what you’ve shown is not ordinary “torx plus” - that seems to be “a version of torx plus security bits”. So, I’m still left wondering if “torx plus” (6 point) bits can be used with original “torx” fasteners - and if it is beneficial to move onto using them. Edit:- quote from tinterwebnet “automotive industry has been using Torx Plus since the ‘90s” - oh well, maybe my error in the 2000’s buying Torx bits for use with 2000’s onward cars! It is said, if the Torx bits for use fits the fastener head loosely, then you’ve got a Torx Plus fastener! Maybe time to spend more tool money!

Oh, initially I (too) thought that was just security Torx!

I've not acquainted myself with the Torx Plus versions - yet, I suppose that I should do though.

Certainly true for in the distant past, I got some sarcastic reply when explaining some faults that I noted on a 2002 Polo while under warranty, a different experience when reporting logged faults on a 2015 Polo while under warranty - maybe all the old duffers had retired by then so younger techs were open to listen to a VCDS user and car owner.

I'd say leave any/all logged faults, and maybe even save/print them off just in case the controller clears them with time - as seems to be the way it is with some logged faults in "newer" VW Group cars.