rum4mo

I'm guessing that you are fitting steel winter wheels and just want to make them look better by fitting some suitable wheel covers. So, many VW Group wheel covers nowadays get fixed into place by using a set of small holes on the wheel, if I'm correct, then maybe you have bought some modern VW Group wheel covers that have these fixing pegs/legs but the wheel is not 100% correct for your car and or as they don't have these small holes for these pegs/legs to pass through. When I had that problem with my wife's 2002 VW Polo, I just cut off the small pegs/legs and the covers still got locked into place at the outer edge of the wheels - and these wheel covers stayed on okay for the next 7 winters - until we sold that car.

I tend to have a replacement set of bolts for fixing the calliper carrier to the hub support - even for our cars that don't need these bolts replacing, but, if I've found that the heads have suffered badly from corrosion, then I'll just replace these bolts to save any annoyance if/when I next need to remove them, the rears on this size of VW Group cars are "replace if removed" - if you have rear discs - but you've already discovered that.

I still tend to connect a slave battery up to any of our cars when removing the battery or replacing it, and yes I connect that in nowadays via the OBD2 port - probably even still got a "memory saver" that plugs into the mains though! You can use that OBD2 port to connect a solar charger up as well, saves faffing around with leads passing over door seals. But, as said, not entirely necessary, but maybe slightly convenient if you can't handle losing your "fuel computer" information!! Edit:- just remember to slip something over the +ve battery lead if you do end up using a memory saver, to stop it ending up earthing on some part.

Yup, the earlier 8V TSI.

Of course there is the possibility that the motor bearing is "not good" so the motor is drawing higher than "normal" current - and if that is the case, that new speed controller will suffer the same fate as the original one - also make sure that the pollen filter is changed. Did you try spinning the motor over with your fingers when the speed controller first failed?

Keep it going, you might just have accidentally started a good little pastime/sideline! Good Luck.

@nta16, the first MK2 Escort Ghia 1600 with the minimalised (FoMoCo special version) twin choke Weber did tend to cause concern when pulling out onto the main road after work in winter time, but in general the auto choke worked okay, the second one's auto choke was faultless. I seem to remember that the theoretical max output was close to 90hp, the MK3 Escort Ghia 1.6 CVH with the horrible V V FoMoCo carb had similar theoretical max output, but 5 gears and better drivability than the older Kent in GT guise. I think that I was aiming at getting a MK1 1300E but I'm glad that I missed buying one of them, at the time that I bought the first MK2 Escort Ghia 1600, most MK1 1300Es had terminal tin worm, while owning MK2 Escort 1600 Ghias, I did have a look at a used MK2 Escort 1600E - but after its 2 years of life, the leather seats looked absolute crap, so I gave that idea a miss. These MK2 Escort 1600 Ghias were okay for going away on holiday in when only 2 people on board with luggage, but for commuting locally with 4 people on board and using hilly roads - not much fun.

I think that the OP was just "cutting and pasting" content from an article that had be read covering this issue - really just to compare with their experience. Small Turbo charged petrol engines will be a bit flat at the low end of the rev range, maybe just still adjusting to how these engines are, I have no issues with my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT, but maybe that older engine suffers less of that having a slightly higher capacity. Edit:- I'm old enough to have run a couple of MK2 Ford Escort Ghia 1600 - they had the Kent engine with a single twin choke Weber carb, max power and max torque tended to appear quite high up the rev range, so changing gear when accelerating up a slope/hill, usually meant changing back down sooner than later! Then the much later Ford Valencia 1100 Fiesta engine in maybe HCS version, lots of torque low down tending to lead, when only owning it for a short period in time, to great expectations of good things later up the rev range - only for me to discover "that's the lot" - bother, better pull back into the "slower" lane. Both of these quoted engines were NA though, so just other design issue/aims.

Just to clarify or repeat what has been said already, these 3 symbols are all connected to the ABS system, so a fault within that would force a fault/warning on the others.

Exactly, I stopped being a source of "looked after 4 year old cars" many years ago.

I used to try rocking the air filter housing after removing the air tube clips - these ratcheting pliers for removing these clips is a very handy tool to have, which I originally removed the air filter on my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI, I just used a rack type tool that Laser tools sells, that worked well good, but not as fast to use as the ratcheting pliers for these big strong clips! Rocking the air filter housing allows you to build up confidence to get the housing up and off its mounting "ball studs". For anyone with a later 1.0TSI engine, maybe a warning, there is a bolt to remove as well AND the filter outlet pipe to the turbo input has its pipe clip slightly out of sight at the back of the engine, our younger daughter and husband has a 2019 SEAT Arona 1.0TSI 115PS, and they are not "car people" at all, so they handed that car into a "proper" German car Indie garage in Bromley for its 4th service maybe 6 months after they had bought it, as the garage knew that they didn't plan to do many miles per year, that garage did not replace the spark plugs, but, they removed the air filter housing and opened it up to examine the filter element - which sounds maybe "fair enough", anyway, 3 months later they drove up to visit us in Scotland and I chose to keep that car's service parts change to what SEAT advise, so I replaced the spark plugs. After checking up on what differences there were wrt air filter fixings, I released both air pipe clips and moved them up along the pipes, and after rocking the filter a bit I lifted it up and off the car, as I moved it to the side to place it down in a safe place, there was a noise of something dropping off that housing - half of the tube that couples the filter to the turbo had come off with the filter, but as I had also released the clip it was only just able to stay with the filter - but that should not have happened as that tube should still have held together with its other half which was bolted onto the turbo inlet! So, it looked a lot like that the previous person to lift that filter housing, did not actually release the clip on that output pipe, and just forcibly yanked the air filter housing upwards and in doing that disassembled the outlet pipe assembly! I couldn't re-assembly that outlet pipe assembly that day, and the car was needed back in use and driving back down to London a day later, so it had to survive for a month or so in that state until I bought a new pipe assembly, sent it down to them and got them to get maybe the same garage to swop them over and request that the original parts were left in the car. When we next visited them, I collected the 2 parts of that pipe assembly and took them back home, where I discovered that these 2 parts could actually get pressed/forced/snapped back together - so if anyone discovers that this has happened, you should, given enough time, be able to force the 2 parts back together! The outlet pipe on the 1.2TSI engines, at least the CJZD version that my wife's 2015 car has, has a simpler and easier to deal with air filter outlet pipe which from memory is a one piece assembly. Edit:- "from" not "form" !!

Maybe check that p/n you wrote down, it looks like there are too many digits, maybe just "1" needs removing, I remember looking into VW small van steel wheel centre covers initially when I bought these Alcar steels for my wife's Polo, but had to give up and get a set of easy to clean, okay to look at, wheel covers. Ie 1U0 601 147 C

First the TPMS sensors, I'd think that there will not be any fitted, the ABS wheel sensors are used for that job. Steel wheels rusting, in my experience, these Alcar wheels do not get much in the way of paint to protect them, so you'd be better buying a set of - maybe used - wheel covers. If you look at the picture of the black Alcar steel wheels, you will see that they have a small hole between each of the pairs of large holes - these small holes are to accommodate the locating spike/pegs on newer wheel covers - what I mean is a long long time ago wheel covers were secured only out at the recess/dip in the rim, then these extra fixing points appeared. When I bought a set of Alcar steel wheels for my wife's 2002 Polo, at that time Polo wheel covers did not have these extra spikes/pegs to locate, so when I bought a suitable looking set of what was Golf 15" wheel covers, I had to cut the spikes/pegs off them so that they fitted the Polo wheels, and that worked well, no wheel cover ever fell off while in use. I've only added that bit in in case you find some much earlier other Skoda 15" wheel covers being sold at a good price - and they don't have these extra spikes/pegs, from my experience don't worry they will still stay on these steel wheels. Edit:- these wheels positioning/locating pegs, yes very useful, I've got a pair in my garage and each of our family's cars have the VW Group black plastic version in with the tool kit in the boot. Another Edit:- my older daughter was getting a pair of new winter tyres fitted to her winter wheels yesterday - due to a curious "hairy" fabric stuff breaking through at a point in one tyre - probably pothole impact had caused that (and caused a slight deformation on the inner rim on the wheel on the other side!), I was helping her "car mad" partner to swop these 2 wheels over, he was amazed just how quickly I could get the plastic caps of the wheel bolts - I was using the proper/correct plastic "tweezers" - he had been used the wire hook that on cars that have a hole in the centre of the wheel bolts, that tool is used on, but on this car, that hook is used maybe to remove some trim pieces. Ah, yes, I forgot to answer the most important question - the wheel bolts - sorry!

Good stuff! I've even wondered some times if VW Group every used T27, but certainly using a T25 instead of a T30 could make things a bit annoying, I've used hex bits accidentally on rusted up components when it should have been Torx - same outcome usually = nightmare! Some of my previous cars, maybe Fords actually had a shield/cover over the top end of the wiper spindle - to avoid or minimise the amount of water getting into that spindle area, SEAT, I remember from my older daughter's early 2002 Ibiza, had the water drain hole running down directly onto the top of the linkage ball joint on the driver's side - that caused that fail annoyingly! I remember attempting to free up the spindles on my wife's previous 2002 Polo when I noticed that the wiper speed had dropped a bit when it was maybe 10 years old, I feed oil down into the spindle area and worked it up and down to encourage the oil to wash "stuff" down and out, that seemed to work, her current 2015 Polo maybe should get that area looked at BEFORE it causes a problem!

Yes, in the distant past I probably used Halfords etc sourced reels of "auto wire" which really did have thick insulation - as well as being "correct for that load" c/s, then maybe 8 years ago I retro fitted front parking sensors to my bought slightly use Audi S4, as part of that job I got wise/lazy and bought in Kufatec cable sets specific to that task, the insulation was extremely thin - but that is standard now on newer cars, so when I needed to "adapt" these prefabricated cable forms to neatly/correctly suit that car, I bought in exactly the same "grade" of wire - certainly it doesn't waste any space! Sigh, unfortunately so! They certainly "did a good job" on SAAB, I remember when my SAAB mate bought his wife her first used SAAB 9-3 and I was frowned on for spotting that the "grab handles" looked exactly the same as the ones on my Cav 2000 16V GSI 4X4 - no surprise there I suppose! My SAAB mate still has that affliction - but currently just a single 96 and two 900 convertibles, ie CC - all the many previou 95s, 96s, 9-3s and 9-5s saloons and estates used as daily drivers have been recycled! VW T-Roc is his present daily driver.

I'd reckon that the only way for VW Group - and others, to stop that happening would be to make sure that the type of wire and its insulation, for the short run from the car to the hatch, was more robust AND flexible - and they and others will not be interested in doing that - there must be a solution for this sort of issue, even some SAABs fell foul of this issue, as did or maybe still do, Ford.

@nta16, if you had access to VCDS or Carista or similar, you could change which lights come on as DRLs, in as much as for certain, maybe Scandic countries the requirement is for rear marker lights being on as well as the front DRLs - and that is not a bad idea, so far in my 24 years of owning VW Group cars, I don't seem to have get round to changing away from just "front DRLs" - though now with both cars having LED DRLs and LED rear marker lights, that is something that makes sense to change to. I tend to be one of these strange/different people that don't normally leave the lights on auto as the point where I consider switching lights on either in poor weather conditions or low light conditions is normally a "bit ahead" of the car's point of doing this - and yes I know that you can alter that as well using VCDS. Typically in UK at least, I'd think that light control should be on auto by default as the average UK driver seems to consider that if they start their journey in daylight then they should not be expected to switch their car lights on before the end of that journey, or when they really can't make out the road a few yards ahead of them - especially if they are driving a dark coloured car!

I think that is where the retaining screw for the lock barrel is located.

Somebody else will get back to you soon with the correct pressure version, what you need to be aware about is, initially VW Group only sold a single fuel fuel element for these cars - the the pressure regulator was different for different applications, then, it seems that common sense prevailed and the filter/regulator was sold as a single part, so that should explain why you are finding a few variations as some aftermarket sources might still be making the fuel filter element available - for you to fit to the regulator section of that lump. I did, way back, find someone selling a regulator at a good price, then I bought a new clip to connect it to a new filter which I bought from VW - I put it all together - then never fitted it as the car continued to run okay until when sold at 13 years old and 105,000miles. Are you replacing this "filter" to try to solve an existing problem or just "good preventative maintenance" ? Edit:- added in a missing word, ie "car"!

Yes, if your lucky, there will be a soft black rubber bung with maybe the outline of a padlock moulded into its outer face, just pick them off, use the key blade or similar shaped implement to flick that "exposed head" over, then close that door - it should now be locked from being able to open it from the outside, from the inside you should still be able to open the door, either directly by pulling the "door opening handle" or by pulling it, release it, it it fully a second time. I was holding back on offering too much info originally just in case it confused you, so was really just trying to force you to read the owner's handbook so that you had that to support you if you ended up being confused - that is all.

Are you sure that that switch on the A3 and most other VW Group cars that have an alarm fitted, is not just for the "interior monitoring function" of the car's alarm. Have you worked out or discovered how you lock up the car after the battery has been removed, it is quite easy to do though the car will be deadlocked, I've done that on a 2009 SEAT Ibiza without having any problems.

Well you got the result that you needed, so all good! I wonder why Autodoc have run out of stock, maybe they are flying out the door, the thing is, maybe the original one fitted to your mum's car came from a production batch or build state that did cause problems, and now, you might be lucky enough to have bought a used one from a production batch or build state that did not suffer many issues - stay lucky. That is just pure speculation from me. There will be a few or many re-manufacturers of items like these, who will charge a fixed price to repair a faulty TB - maybe they will be offering some small money to buy in failed TBs to build up stocks, or maybe they have passed that point and get enough in to repair to keep the flow/demand happy. I've just checked BBA Reman's website, but they don't seem to cover Throttle Body repair, there are others though that might.

I'd guess that the "rolled" sealing washer will form a seal at a lower tightening torque than the flat sealing washers - okay the "rolled" sealing washer should only be used once and if you're careful the flat sealing washer can be reused as many people have found/done. The sumps on many of these TSI engines are alloy, so achieving a good seal at a lower torque is desirable I'd think - though the lower sump pan plate on my 2011 Audi S4 is steel, and it's correct drain plug seal is again, a "rolled" sealing washer so - ?? Either way, a competent DIY "oil changer" should be able to deal with using either without damaging the sump threads.

The correct washer type is a crushable "rolled" washer, and not a flat thick washer, if you need one or some quickly, ECP sell what is a suitable version p/n 333771251, That ECP part number lists the correct dimensions for these washer. The VW and SEAT, at least, plan is, at the first oil change, bin the plug/washer combo and supply and fit a new plug N902 889 01 and fit a new one of these (N 0138157) washers to it. I have, in the distant past, due to lack of local versions outside of VW Group spares dept, which sell the NO138157 at a high price, resorted to buying a pack of 12 or so - from China, they certainly look okay, exactly the same as the pricey genuine item, and for the past maybe 4 oil services, have worked very well on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI with the CJZD engine - then a mate asked at ECP and they sold him the item I gave the ECP p/n for, they look a bit "copperish" as opposed to the genuine item which might be an aluminium alloy item.

Yes, that age of 1.0TSI seems to get more turbo issues than the slightly younger 1.2TSI, also the previous 1.2TSI "enjoyed" a reasonably high failure rate for turbo associated issues! Really not what you'd hope to encounter in a newish car, as much as many other benefits, fuel injection was meant to get rid of all the wear and tear issues that plagued carbs - another bit of newer is not always more reliable, it could or should be, but where is an accountant making "big" decisions, not much good for the end user will happen - okay brilliant at the point of sale, but very probable bad news further down the line. More of that coming with EVs I'd guess I'd hope that re-manufacturers could revive these throttle bodies - but that means taking the car out of use for a week or so. Edit:- these TBs do make a bit of noise when they are "doing things" after the engine is switched off, but not sounding like crunching plastic gears.