rum4mo

I'm surprised that if you can back the "flying lead" from the old pad twist the wires together and solder them and then seal in heat shrink tubing - preferably the type with heat activated adhesive/sealant, that the brake warning light did not go off. If you have VCDS, you should be able to find where the "brake wear sensor fitted " coding is and switch it off, I seem to remember needing to switch my on in my 2000 VW Passat 4Motion as it came new with that feature not enabled! Edit:- Fords, at least from back in the 1980's used a 3 wire system, so leaving the cable unplugged would force a flashing light, but any VW Group ones I've seen from 2000 > 2019 only have a 2 wire system.

Which is the exact reason why I reported the fact that they were not selling the full range of pads, to TMD Friction UK ie probably the sales office of Mintex, back in maybe 2008 when I needed to buy new Pagid rear pads for my 2000 VW Passat 4Motion, the only Pagid offering from ECP had no anti-squeal "bits", which was almost okay as long as the sunroof was closed, and their only TMD Friction offering for the front brakes, Textar was listed on the TMD Friction webcat as being only for use in Japan! That resulted in me being sent out (by TMD Friction UK), the correct pads for both ends FOC, which was good. Edit:- possibly similar iffyness concerning ECP and Sachs products, I bought a pair of rear dampers for my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI SEL, only when back home did I check the Sachs part number of the supplied parts - they were for a different rear damper PR code, so I contacted ECP online and they supplied me with the correct ECP stock number, which I went in to buy, but, initially, as I was buying from my online ECP account and that car was the default car selected while buying them, they kept disappearing as ECP was not listing them for that model/version of car, so I had to remove that car's details and so I don't know which marque and model of car ECP had them listed against, just something else to watch out for when ordering from ECP, I normally go for collection with all my facts "to hand" - but this time I failed! Return time for unused or faulty parts is now only 60 days with ECP which is fair enough, in the past it used to be 365 days I think, just something else to be aware of, which is the same for Halford for parts supplied to them by ECP.

You really are just searching in the dark without being able to actually check what the system pressure is doing, both on the suction side(low) and the discharge side(high), these systems are designed to get "critically charged" and so will not tolerate overcharging - especially in hot weather. Checking with a fridge manifold set is best, but checking what the system pressure sensor thinks is going on by using a scan tool like VCDS etc is also useful.

That's horrible news and I hope that it is not quite as bad as that, as being bought by ECP would mean that the range would be compressed down to as few different parts as absolutely possible - or even less! So was that just Pagid of was it the complete group of companies that were under TMD Friction? I had heard that Pagid in some countries including UK, were manufacturing for some of ECP's "special" brands - but probably nothing wrong in grabbing a bit of that action as a subcontract job.

One thing though, could you let us know the model of the battery that Halfords sold you, and the engine type and output of your Fabia, just in case Halford sold you the wrong battery. Edit:- also, as you are now a Halfords customer, do they not offer a preferential rate/cost for them to code that battery to your car at their premises? Another Edit:- so they charge £30 for coding the battery to the car, seems fair enough if you don't have the means to do it yourself. I will not bother commenting on the cost of batteries from Halford as that choice has already been made, I'm surprised that the AA did not push to supply fit and code one of their choice which is Bosch.

I'd think that it would be a good plan to get Halfords to code that battery to your car. Seeing any aftermarket parts on a car must put dealership's noses out of joint - "how dare you" sort of thing.

Or even easier, the 288mm callipers have a vertical wire "spring" running down the outer face. The issue with pads for certain brakes only being available with wear sensors occurs right across some models and marques. The solution is just to cut the wiring off as close to the top of the pad as possible, I tried desperately to find the correct front pads for my wife's 2015 VW Polo that does not have brake wear system included - then properly read the comments in an online parts car, what was written was basically use the ones with a brake wear sensor built in (as there are not any supplied by VW Group that don't have a wear sensor) and cut off the sensor. Edit:- I've never noticed any useful identification on at least the later version of these 288mm callipers, even having owned a car from new with them, the version on some 2015 cars is FN3 in the case of my wife's Polo, FN3 - 54, ie 54mm pistons.

Is it really a safe thing to do to fit anything between the "emergency use only intended" scissors jack and the car's frame? I would not do that, all the pucks etc that I've ever seen are for use with a stable trolley jack. Each to their own but, why invite danger - unless I'm missing something.

I did understand that, but still added that comment to suggest why they had not returned.

That member last visited this website/forum a few days after that final posting, have their "lips been sealed"? Ie set conditions for resolving this issue, just idle speculation on my part, but could be true.

I’m guessing that while the bonnet switch lead was unplugged that the car would think that the bonnet was open, applying a short should, I’m guessing look like the bonnet was closed.

But, now that you have hopefully simulated the micro switch working, as far as the car knows, and if the oil was high enough, and of course if the bonnet switch is faulty, you should now have cleared that oil level warning. If it is still there, the root cause lies elsewhere like the wiring, maybe a fuse, or the oil level sensor.

Any fully VW Group compliant scan tool will point to what it thinks is causing the fault, so yes, if a ABS wheel sensor, it will identify which one. You could check the "VCDS locator map" to see if anyone close to you is reg'd and ask to make contact. Where, roughly, in Scotland are you located?

One thing that I can't enlighten @Jackhodge998 on is, the exact location of the plug/socket for that bonnet switch, I never ever noticed it on my wife's previous 2002 Polo, but on her 2015 Polo, it sticks out like a sore thumb very high up just at the washer fluid tank, which seems a very obvious or important position for something that hopefully never needs anyone to gain access to, strange.

Yup, that would have been an easy fix, but you could always try unplugging the lead to the bonnet micro switch and stuff a paper clip across it, I'm guessing that if its open circuit that equates to "bonnet open" and if it is short circuit that equates to "bonnet closed" - but that is purely a guess as doing that would make it fail safe for cars that show an open bonnet - like most/all later cars. If that worked, then the "Low oil level"| light would get reset until you let it run low again. My logic was, the previous owner kept an eye on the oil level as maybe he knew it "liked" a bit of oil added frequently, and so even if the bonnet micro switch was faulty, it would never have caused any issues, you then bought this car and basically didn't quite keep on top of checking the essential fluids and the "Low oil level" warning appeared - and if the bonnet switch was faulty that warning would never get cleared just by adding in oil. Edit:- even leaving out stuffing a paper clip into the removed lead as I'd think that open circuit for a few minutes would be enough to reset the low oil level warning - if that bonnet switch was in deed faulty.

For goodness sake, has the OP not said that the dash display does not register the bonnet being open, while it does so for all other doors and hatches, I'd be sorting that out before buying a new low level sensor, much cheaper.

I'm reading/interpreting what you wrote as " on the dash each door and hatch opened show on up - but when the bonnet is opened it does not show up", if that is the case, then sort out the micro switch and/or lead before looking elsewhere would be my plan. Edit:- in other words, the car's systems need to know that the bonnet has been opened before it will revisit and clear the low oil level warning, logically, if the bonnet has not been opened then the oil level can not have changed, if that makes sense.

Could this not now just be the bonnet lock micro switch sticking in the "bonnet closed" state - so until that is sorted you could put a lot more oil in and still have that warning showing.

Yup, as it turns out. Edit:- they seem to able to supply Lesjofors road springs, which could be handy in future.

I had that noisy rear pads experience from buying from ECP way back in maybe 2008, bought new Pagid or Textar pads for my 2000 VW Passat 4Motion - I contacted the UK sales arm of TMD Friction and they sent out the correct kit FOC, that sorted that out! Electric handbrakes, yes, maybe not ideal, but they do have their advantages - after a while.

I always thought that Dingbro will only deal with trade customers, the one reason why I've never, as a DIYer, checked them out for parts. As they had a branch almost next to where I used to work (South Gyle Embra), I went in to buy a trolley jack many many years ago as I had an urgent need for one to use at work, paid with my own cash and they muttered about not wanting to deal with non trade customers, which I suspected would be the case, so never went back for personal car parts.

If you look on the SEATCUPRA forum, there has been a few people finding that there is cable connection, ie plug pin>socket pin, within the rear hatch, that can get wet and so end up with a "bad" connection, I'd think that Fabia and Polo will be roughly the same in this area. Failing that, there is always the possibility that a cable has ended up shearing on the cable run between the car body and the hatch - ie in the area that is covered by a flexible rubber sleeve.

Yes, sorry, "first impressions" and all that, not a good look/experience. I would not be too sure that some of the grumpy ones are not women, though they might not know it.

I've contacted DVSA about an issue - and not one that had happened to me - yet, they will claim to note any contacts from drivers/owners and reply to emails, I'd think that after that it will be up to many many others to contact them before they take any action, like communicating with the car manufacturer's UK representative, any follow up action with depend on how that comms with the car manufacturer's UK representative went. All the communications that they receive will get it's own reference number.

Well, if you had or borrowed or bought a multi meter, you could find out more.