rum4mo

Yes, the final sentence is what is to be expected from this system as it is looking for changes/differences between the values/ratios when last reset to what they are now - ie as probably said already in this thread and others, this system is an indirect tyre pressure monitoring system and so is not actually able to measure tyre pressures - only the frequency of each wheel rotation.

I'm sure that I've read that VW Group have had some issues that they resolved by a S/W update - maybe press your Skoda dealership to check for that, or for them to log a request for technical help from Skoda mothership. I can't say which controller needed the S/W update so I'll not guess as logic sometimes does not work.

BEM codes were meant to mean that VW Group had a strangle hold of you (and your wallet) when it came to needing a new battery, maybe BMW also tried that handy trick as well, though with time that got "kicked into touch", so that was that. Luckily your car didn't need coding, probably the only use for BEM info in your car would be for dealer's to handle warranty claims on the original battery. I'd surprised that any/all Halfords branches are now not completely up to date with which cars needed battery coding carried out - and have the kit to do so if needed. Edit:- I'm sure that I coded in the new Bosch EFB that the AA fitted to my younger daughter's 2019 SEAT Arona - just in case the AA hadn't bothered to do that - they certainly hadn't cleared all the fault codes when the original battery died.

The "320A" rating for CCA is the DIN rating, that equates to 640 SAE which is the same battery as my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT has, also my younger daughter's 2019 SEAT Arona 1.0TSI 115PS 6MT has, and both are 59 or 60AHr EFB, AGM is better in my mind though, I've already bought a 70AmpHour 760A CCA SAE AGM for that 2015 Polo - but it doesn't seem to need it yet!

Good information!

1.2 12V, I'd think man tran.

In general “proper” VAG Indies can and will do that sort of thing “part” of a job. I got my local one to “sort out” a radio upgrade I did to my old S4 after fitting a used radio. VW or Audi etc I’d guess would not have shown any interest - or claim it is not possible to do.

It's part of getting old(er), the world is against us!

Maybe a different situation with front wheel drive cars as your E Class would have had a section of subframe that "went across" the body of that car. You can get crossbeams that fit on top of some trolley jacks, they do sound like being a bit unstable but if all your going to be doing is to get the front of the car up high enough to slip stands under each of the front jacking points, then with care, that would work. Always a bit tricky if you need one side at a raised kerb though. Edit:- I am meaning that the crossbeam would get located across/between 2 strong points.

Yes, these new wheels should behave in the same way as the originals, just check/adjust the pressures after they are fitted, then reset the TPMS and all should be okay.

Where have you found these part numbers, they sound a lot like being a seller like GSF's own warehouse stock numbers? Maybe look on Autodoc just to find which brands are generally available and each brand's parts/reference number - and build up some facts from doing that before heading off and ordering in parts - just a suggestion, that is all. My wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT has run over 50,000 miles, I "refreshed" the suspension and for now, I've just left the original ARB drop links on it as they seem to be okay - I did buy new drop links from maybe Skoda and I'm frightened to fit them as they cost so much! My wife's first Polo was a 2002 car, the only reason that I replaced its ARB drop links is because I could not remove the nuts without causing them damage when I needed to replace the front springs, so, when I had to repeat that jon on my older daughter's 2009 Ibiza, I prepared for needing new ARB drop links - and the original ones came off very easily - so that pair of maybe Febi drop links still resides in my parts box 7 years later. Lots of people have reported ARB drop links failing in early life - or did so at one time, but not my experience from working on a 2009 Ibiza in 2016 or a 2015 Polo in 2024.

When I spotted this new thread, I pessimistically thought "oh no, VW Group have revisited this and dropped the replace time/miles" - but not so! So, thanks for posting what the latest official Skoda info is on this ! By the way, I've been here/there once before with a 1991 Vauxhall Cavalier GSI - the original time/miles was quietly dropped quite dramatically, I only found that out when reading my monthly car magazine - that got me quickly along to my VX dealer to book it in!

@RickW, yes, I have a drinking friend who has had heated screens on his Fords for maybe 15 years or more, and feels very smug in winter time! Mind you, we always have our cars in a garage so only an issue "after work" etc.

Kufatec do supply a cable set, if you buy that you will be able to download their instructions which should help with getting the other parts needed. Retro fitting to the standard/level of factory fit options does cause a lot of damage to your wallet, but if you’ve set your mind on doing this - why not! I’ve done a bit of proper retro fitting to my old 2011 Audi S4 and it all worked out well - apart from cost, I sourced the cables from Kufatec and most other parts were found used online.

I often find using Google to do the searching works better. Maybe check to see if Kufatec supplies cabling or a kit. My wife seems to have forgotten her 2015 VW Polo has them, she used them when she had her previous car which was a 2002 VW Polo.

Oh yes, for those of us that "feel the need" swopping wheels/tyres can give the desired results!

On some other VW Group forum, there is a concern that fitting "Brembo aftermarket" pads will or can lead to pad rattle due to some versions being " a bit loose" in their callipers. I'll happily still fit Pagid into the rear brakes on my wife's 2015 VW Polo, but for some reason I tend to try to buy in early, genuine VW Group correct part number pads for the front brakes - just usually NOS as it appears from time to time on ebay. Maybe as I've said already in this thread, VW Group fitted Jurid rebranded as VW Group to the front brakes at the factory - or that area of the car's front assembly facility - and the NOS VW Group pads I bought are also Jurid.

I'm guessing that you are fitting steel winter wheels and just want to make them look better by fitting some suitable wheel covers. So, many VW Group wheel covers nowadays get fixed into place by using a set of small holes on the wheel, if I'm correct, then maybe you have bought some modern VW Group wheel covers that have these fixing pegs/legs but the wheel is not 100% correct for your car and or as they don't have these small holes for these pegs/legs to pass through. When I had that problem with my wife's 2002 VW Polo, I just cut off the small pegs/legs and the covers still got locked into place at the outer edge of the wheels - and these wheel covers stayed on okay for the next 7 winters - until we sold that car.

I tend to have a replacement set of bolts for fixing the calliper carrier to the hub support - even for our cars that don't need these bolts replacing, but, if I've found that the heads have suffered badly from corrosion, then I'll just replace these bolts to save any annoyance if/when I next need to remove them, the rears on this size of VW Group cars are "replace if removed" - if you have rear discs - but you've already discovered that.

I still tend to connect a slave battery up to any of our cars when removing the battery or replacing it, and yes I connect that in nowadays via the OBD2 port - probably even still got a "memory saver" that plugs into the mains though! You can use that OBD2 port to connect a solar charger up as well, saves faffing around with leads passing over door seals. But, as said, not entirely necessary, but maybe slightly convenient if you can't handle losing your "fuel computer" information!! Edit:- just remember to slip something over the +ve battery lead if you do end up using a memory saver, to stop it ending up earthing on some part.

Yup, the earlier 8V TSI.

Of course there is the possibility that the motor bearing is "not good" so the motor is drawing higher than "normal" current - and if that is the case, that new speed controller will suffer the same fate as the original one - also make sure that the pollen filter is changed. Did you try spinning the motor over with your fingers when the speed controller first failed?

Keep it going, you might just have accidentally started a good little pastime/sideline! Good Luck.

@nta16, the first MK2 Escort Ghia 1600 with the minimalised (FoMoCo special version) twin choke Weber did tend to cause concern when pulling out onto the main road after work in winter time, but in general the auto choke worked okay, the second one's auto choke was faultless. I seem to remember that the theoretical max output was close to 90hp, the MK3 Escort Ghia 1.6 CVH with the horrible V V FoMoCo carb had similar theoretical max output, but 5 gears and better drivability than the older Kent in GT guise. I think that I was aiming at getting a MK1 1300E but I'm glad that I missed buying one of them, at the time that I bought the first MK2 Escort Ghia 1600, most MK1 1300Es had terminal tin worm, while owning MK2 Escort 1600 Ghias, I did have a look at a used MK2 Escort 1600E - but after its 2 years of life, the leather seats looked absolute crap, so I gave that idea a miss. These MK2 Escort 1600 Ghias were okay for going away on holiday in when only 2 people on board with luggage, but for commuting locally with 4 people on board and using hilly roads - not much fun.

I think that the OP was just "cutting and pasting" content from an article that had be read covering this issue - really just to compare with their experience. Small Turbo charged petrol engines will be a bit flat at the low end of the rev range, maybe just still adjusting to how these engines are, I have no issues with my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT, but maybe that older engine suffers less of that having a slightly higher capacity. Edit:- I'm old enough to have run a couple of MK2 Ford Escort Ghia 1600 - they had the Kent engine with a single twin choke Weber carb, max power and max torque tended to appear quite high up the rev range, so changing gear when accelerating up a slope/hill, usually meant changing back down sooner than later! Then the much later Ford Valencia 1100 Fiesta engine in maybe HCS version, lots of torque low down tending to lead, when only owning it for a short period in time, to great expectations of good things later up the rev range - only for me to discover "that's the lot" - bother, better pull back into the "slower" lane. Both of these quoted engines were NA though, so just other design issue/aims.