rum4mo

Probably the answer you'll get to that question is "no". Just try to enjoy using it while accumulating some insurance no claims discount and road/driving experience - and saving up for its replacement when that time comes.

Have you checked on a couple of filter manufacturer's web cat like Mahle and also Mann to see which one they suggest? Plus find out the correct VW Group part number and see which ones match that. (ie as above, use your VIN and engine code when searching)

While your comments might not be wrong, in the context of this particular thread, I don't think that they are relevant. It does look a lot like the OP'r has finally settled with Skoda UK and strict conditions were part and parcel of that settlement - so that would include no more commenting on this subject on public forums, it has been suggested or suspected that this has "happened" to another or other Skoda owners when faced with having to "go public" on Skoda build/design issues. So far I've not noticed this happening on any VW, Audi or SEAT forums that I am on - yet, maybe Skoda customers don't take things lying down where the other VW Group marque customers just put up with it - who knows.

Yes, I've just checked for that year of that engine in my Polo workshop manual.

"S-A" ? Torque settings for a 2015 1.2TSI is - sump plug = 30Nm, oil filter = 20Nm and sparkplugs = 22Nm

No, sorry. My wife has an August 2015 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT VW Polo but it still runs well, though the total mileage is just under 51,000miles.

It will be a retainer for somewhere that should become obvious when you start this job, or if it is still unused after you have done this job, add it to your "tin of bits" - something for the future?

Is there any "hub centring" built into these spacers and is the spaced out wheel, wheel centre the same size as the mating part on the spacer? What tightening torque figure are you using?( a repeated question)

One thing that I'm confidant that the car will do, is to correctly take care of any demand that you place on the alternator, in terms of when you switch on heated windows and lights etc.

More like very inaccurate info, the alternator will always charge the battery in normal driving but only up to a certain level of SOC, leaving enough "space" for it does when it is making use of what would otherwise be wasted energy that the system does during the over run and/or braking phase to "cram" as must extra charge as will be accepted by the battery, that is known as regenerative braking on these cars.

Well, one thing that the 1.4 16V petrol engines suffered from, round about the 2008>2009 production period, was duff/possibly leaking O-ring seals on the engine oil separator, and that can lead to a film of oil existing on the lower surface of the inlet manifold, and maybe even dripping down from there. But as said or inferred earlier, which engine is in this car? Edit:- okay, I’d forgotten the “TSI” being mentioned, so dump my first suggestion and check the PCV .

Seeing as you have a DVM plugged in at all times, the clues to having a healthy battery is that when you are driving "under power" as opposed to "on the over run", that DVM should be reading 12.6/7/8 and a bit less at idle when stopped at lights. The battery in my wife's 2015 VW Polo is an EFB and it sometimes does not end up well enough charged at the end of a run to enable auto stop/start - but I have worked out that that is only down to the way that "journey has gone" as I find that I can frequently end up with the car harvesting the charge from the battery - to save wasting energy. Driving in an "energetic/aggressive" manner will usually mean avoiding that happening - but give you worse MPG figures!

A different car, but on my wife's 2015 Polo, when I press the middle button, you don't actually hear anything happening, but the boot will have unlocked and that area removed from the alarm system, if I then open the hatch and close it, the boot is relocked etc, if I wait about and don't open the boot/hatch, it will relock after a short period of time - same as the rest of the car will if the top button is pressed and then no doors are opened within a certain period of time.

Without me digging deeper, that wheel size comment is normally what is handed out to distinguish between the brake versions fitted to cars from factory with smaller wheels and those with bigger wheels - ie to make sure that there is clearance for the discs. My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, for example, has that comment against the official build data options listing, so in its case "15 wheels" option where it comes with 16 alloys as standard. Edit:- that car has a 15" steel spare, so okay to use with that brake option.

Oh yes, the ones I mentioned earlier for Golf R32 and Audi TT are solid as are the Cupra ones.

Well when my wife's 2015 VW Polo started exhibiting front end droning between 60>65MPH, when it had its winter wheels/tyres on, I optimistically blamed it on the road surface in Ayrshire in Scotland, then, a few months later, it started showing up on road surfaces in some other regions, so I changed my ideas/thoughts and blamed it purely on the winter wheel/tyres. That worked well for a few more months until I changed to summer wheels/tyres, then it became obvious that it was front wheel bearing - so I replaced the hubs on both sides and that sorted that out!

Yes, the vertical bushes are easier to replace than the old horizontal ones - well for a DIYer anyway.

Yes the old "Halfords cheaper than ECP" while Halfords are sourcing these parts from ECP, something that I've become aware of - but ALWAYS check to make sure that is true and don't just assume it is, because it isn't always true. I was recently wanting to buy Lemforder lower swivels for a 2015 VW Polo, slightly cheaper from Halfords, BUT as stocks are low, Halfords are declaring them "not available" while ECP was still selling them. Annoyingly, the Halfords website was not really declaring them "not available" - just sending me round in a loop when I tried to select them, so please note that Halfords website has not been designed and maintained by a competent software house, just thicko's or lazy stupid people. I had to stop raging to myself and get around chatting to a "bot" before this was pointed out, no "sorry our website is terrible" just "item is showing as being not available", ah well! While on the topic of parts, if using Halfords or ECP, please be aware that ECP is playing some "funky" games/tricks at times - like when I checked for the Sachs part number for rear springs for a 2015 VW Polo, ordered them online from ECP, what was handed over was not the correct Sachs part number on the Sachs branded boxes, just no Sachs label instead a ECP label with what I know is a Lesjofors set of part numbers for a shorter spring! So needed to create a "returns" via the ECP website and hand them back in, ECP "contact us" help said just to aske the branch that I use to source the correct Sachs parts - and that did not turn out to be a option, a bit annoying using ECP, but I end up close to them every Wednesday while we look after a grandson. I keep saying that for a DIYer, using ECP can sometimes save you time and money, and can be convenient, but only if you really really do your homework.

Copied from info that I collected a few years ago when I first looked into buying a tool to press out/press in new TCA rear mounting bushes. "Lemforder list p/n 2111301 for 1J0 407 181, but also list 357801 as a replacement for 6R0 407 181 B which seems to be the “sports suspension” equivalent part, or the Golf R32/Audi TT part 8N0 407 181B, Lemforder list p/n 2713201 same as Meyle HD 100 407 0073/HD or Febi 26535. Ie, stock bush Polo is 1J0 407 181, stock bush Ibiza Cupra Bush 6R0 407 181 B" I bought my new (voided) bushes from ECP and they were Lemforder but also had the VW Group part number moulded onto them, I did not check if ECP sell the other versions. Edit:- listed for the 2023 Fabia is 2Q0 407 183 B, in the comments field is "60" and the nominal OD of the bushes that I bought and fitted to the 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS was also 60mm, so I reckon that this newer version is the same but modified from the original one, to add some confidence to that suggestion, the fixing bolt for the 2023 Fabia is the same as it is for the 2015 VW Polo, so maybe that is another option to stiffen things up and gain more reliability than changing to the solid version - though fitting the solid version is simpler as there is no "rotational" requirements. Another Edit:- maybe give that newer version a miss unless you can confirm that the length of the centre steel bush is the same as for the earlier versions, the ebay pics of the Lemforder equivalent part does make me think that the centre steel bush is longer than the earlier ones.

I got one replaced under new warranty on my wife’s August 2015 VW Polo at just under the 2 years old point as I had noticed it had a tear in it. Then a month or so ago I replaced both sides as the original RHS one had the centre metal bush broken free from the rubber, the other side that had been replaced at the 2 year point, looked okay apart from slight cosmetic delaminating. After examining the RHS one, when out/off the car, it’s centre metal bush was tilted and the hole in the rubber had permanently deformed to look “egg” shaped, it had been causing a bit of a knock at times. I’ve just written that so that it can be seen that these mountings can last at least 30,000miles/7 years - depending on use. I had always set my mind on fitting solid versions but was concerned about NVH, I did get. a VAG indie to replace the torn console bushes in my wife’s old 2002 VW Polo and they worked very well that was on a Petrol engined Polo. I’m not at home at the moment so I can’t offer you any part numbers of the solid versions, but I will try to do that tonight.

I can hear the sound, but really it would need recording for a lot longer to separate the "movements" noises from what you are worried about.

Sounds more like a servo motor hunting, this happens a lot in VW Group since at least 2000, these servo motors operate the "heater" air direction and air blend for temperature control and the potentiometer mounted on each one, which is part of the feedback system to control the flap's position, gets "dirty" and so the control of the motor is lost and so it moves beyond that point and so to being in the wrong position which is detected and then it reverses and moves back beyond where it should be - and oscillates hence the ticking. Sometimes if you are lucky, it is just due to the system trying to get in control of the demanded air temperature and it will settle down.

Yes, Jurid is or was a factory supplier to VW Group or more likely a supplier to TRW or whoever supplied the built up front "units" for VW SA, as my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI had originally Jurid front brake pads - and maybe even the NOS genuine VW Group replacement pads that are on it now after the front discs inner faces started to have a build up of corrosion and so wasted the inner pads! So now Pagid HC discs and new VW Group pads.

@Doily, there is a chance that they could just be using simple terms to explain what they could do to/for your car, if you were interested in paying them more - or, maybe as said already, helping you lighten your wallet. While the rear suspension is not adjustable as such, they could carry out more checks to make sure that it has not been damaged, and everything is still fit for use, like the mounting bushes, the front subframe can be moved around slightly to help align the front end to the fixed rear end. I'm guessing that they do have a proper alignment jig/bench, but initially you like most other people have only asked for the toeing to be checked/corrected - and maybe they don't really know how to make full use of its other features. I'll confess now to asking my local KwikFit to check/adjust the front toe of an Ibiza after I had replaced the track rods and ends, getting that done cost a lot more than I had expected (from the days when toeing check/adjust was just that), but I was given a full alignment printout or "before" and "after" - I gathered from that experience that no human input was involved when measuring the caster! Maybe time for me to get that done on my wife's 2015 Polo now that I've done a "spring-damper" refresh and TCA rear bushes replacement, and see if they now know how to use that kit fully.

I'd always think that it would be a better plan to keep the car wiring as it is and modify the lead out to the pad, so that this can be reversed in the future maybe by the next owner. It sounds like you will not be able to code this out yourself if what Breezy Pete wrote confused you, maybe get a workshop to do that for you - if it is legal to do that in your country.