rum4mo

It should still be a large (36mm) 12 pointed nut that has built in/on locking tangs, so that means you need a slim(ish) 36mm BiHex socket if working on it. Buy one from any VW Group dealer's parts department, 6Q0 407 396 B Double Hex Nut M16 X 1.5 Edit:- extra info - "they cost more than a fiver!"

If you are still left wondering, take a look at the power steering fluid reservoir cap, it should have TRW moulded into it is if it TRW .

Somebody was bound to chip in with "its the Halford effect" - this time it is me, sorry!

I'm sure that most people that comment or complain about this is actually talking about something a lot more serious corrosion wise than the "overnight red rust" that you are referring to, certainly our daughter's 2019 Arona rear discs looks a quite nasty dark colour and it would take skimming/grinding to return them to "normal/acceptable", same for our older daughter's 2019 Leon Cupra rear discs - its nasty looking rear discs certainly helps it get through brake pads. My wife's 2015 Polo's rear discs did look not too good for the past year - then a rear calliper seized and caused a bit extra wear in a rear pad, so as well as replacing that rear calliper and pads, I also considered that a rear disc change was required, so it now has Pagid rear discs. While carrying out a brake clean up at this year's service, I discovered that a "good looking from the outer side" front disc, was really not too good on its inner face, so they and the pads got changed as well to Pagid. My 2011 Audi S4 is still on its second set of brake discs, originals replaced under warranty for causing vibration the paperwork claims, these still VW Group discs are still clean and smooth. It almost looks like it can be a luck of the draw as to which quality/brand or maybe just the actual manufacturer of brake discs supplied to VW Group that causes this variation in "survivability" in service.

Unfortunately the relay will be inside BCM - ie one of the car's smart controller. One other thing that can cause this is the indicator stalk, do all 4 hazard lights work always when you turn them on?

Are they not better getting professionals in as the recovered fuel will need to be disposed of, there are people that supply this service, I've even seen one fixing my next door neighbours error, but I can't remember what the name of that national provider is. Are they not in a "motoring service" like RAC/AA/GreenFlag? Edit:- I know that it is not an answer to your question, but maybe just give in and hand this job over to the professionals this time.

Our younger daughter and her husband hired a Peugeot 208 GT (badged as GT but probably GT-Line) when they were up in August, when it started up from cold, it made some serious "clacking" noises - probably flywheel/clutch related, I would not have expected that from a 6 month old 20,000mile car - but, the sound insulation worked so well that none of that noise was heard inside that car.

It is really just, with the car stationary, after checking and correcting the tyre pressures, go into the TPMS menu, STORE new pressures, then CONFIRM, then drive off and the system will quickly collect the data from all 4 wheels.

Maybe surprisingly they can or do work fine, I ended up with a chipboard screw in the centre of a rear tyre on my wife's 2015 Polo a couple of weeks ago! I had just left my local Skoda parts place (easier to get to than the local VW place), and the warning appeared as I drove up a slip road onto the city bypass, now, as I've had "ghost" warnings in the past on both of our cars, I chose to go by "feel", which seemed to be okay, and drove on to Screwfix a few miles further on, got out and checked the tyre that the alarm was indicating was the problem, the side wall felt less firm than it should - but the nice shiny screw sticking out of the centre of the tread really confirmed that that tyre was needing attention! So I managed to get home and stick a trolley jack under that wheel before it lost too much of its air - lucky I suppose. I've had a few occasions on my own car when its winter wheels were leaking air past the valve bodies where I've been reminded to top a tyre up, and the drop in pressure was only 5 > 8PSI down from where it had been at my previous tyre pressure check. (ended up with all the powder coated ie refurbished alloys leaking at the valve area - I've worked out that this was due to this being the point where the alloys get suspended from when being powder coated and so does not get any covering so will always end up with corrosion starting there)

That is only true for some manufacturer's TPMS, the usual or factory fitted system that VW Group includes in its "normal" cars, just uses the ABS sensor data - so no proper "tyre pressure" sensors with battery in them. Edit:- I'm sure that I've read that this problem has happened to other people with this indirect TPMS on VW Group cars, but I can't remember reading what the usual root cause and so fix is - maybe even a software update/patch.

If what has been written in a few VW Group forums is true, then it sounds a lot like it would be a good plan to suffer the inconvenience and time wasting, and get it booked into either a proper VW Group dealership, that can confirm that it has the correct kit to carry out this job on this engine, or find a proper VW Group Indie that can confirm that they have the kit that VW Group claims is needed or maybe even some aftermarket equivalent kit, I think that Laser Tools now supplies a kit for EA211 engine belt changing - this is certainly what I plan to do when the mileage of my wife's 2015 Polo gets "on a bit" currently only at 51,000miles. There is some chatter that it is only the 1.0TSI etc that has variable cam timing on both cams that can end up in a less than satisfactory state after the belt has been replaced - and I certainly do not want my wife's car to end up like that as it performs very well right now! Edit:- sorry, I've deleted that "Edit" as it was meant for another posting I was replying to when I got an alert to @classic's responds to this posting!

What surprised me when I removed the mountings from my wife's 2015 Polo with 50,000miles, was, the righthand side mounting, which was a factory fitted original one, the rubber had become very hard, there has been no tearing, but the central metal bush has been permanently deforming the solid rubber at the inner and other side of it, and so had created an oval bore, maybe 4mm clearance side to side/left<>right - well oval at the top and bottom, probably still near enough a circle and a tight fit to that metal bush at half depth point, so plenty free movement available as the suspension moved up and down, and no signs of any tearing - as I had thought would happen, anywhere on that mounting. Edit:- that Meyle part number is still the same as the Meyle part number I included in my pasting further up this thread.

I've always considered that as it is reading the ABS sensors, it is just a "frequency driven" system, so if any tyre(s) are replaced, the system needs to be "reset" to recognise what a "good" situation looks like in terms of relative differing RPMs from all 4 wheels. It is only when one changes frequency that the alarm should get triggered to alert you to "an issue".

Probably the answer you'll get to that question is "no". Just try to enjoy using it while accumulating some insurance no claims discount and road/driving experience - and saving up for its replacement when that time comes.

Have you checked on a couple of filter manufacturer's web cat like Mahle and also Mann to see which one they suggest? Plus find out the correct VW Group part number and see which ones match that. (ie as above, use your VIN and engine code when searching)

While your comments might not be wrong, in the context of this particular thread, I don't think that they are relevant. It does look a lot like the OP'r has finally settled with Skoda UK and strict conditions were part and parcel of that settlement - so that would include no more commenting on this subject on public forums, it has been suggested or suspected that this has "happened" to another or other Skoda owners when faced with having to "go public" on Skoda build/design issues. So far I've not noticed this happening on any VW, Audi or SEAT forums that I am on - yet, maybe Skoda customers don't take things lying down where the other VW Group marque customers just put up with it - who knows.

Yes, I've just checked for that year of that engine in my Polo workshop manual.

"S-A" ? Torque settings for a 2015 1.2TSI is - sump plug = 30Nm, oil filter = 20Nm and sparkplugs = 22Nm

No, sorry. My wife has an August 2015 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT VW Polo but it still runs well, though the total mileage is just under 51,000miles.

It will be a retainer for somewhere that should become obvious when you start this job, or if it is still unused after you have done this job, add it to your "tin of bits" - something for the future?

Is there any "hub centring" built into these spacers and is the spaced out wheel, wheel centre the same size as the mating part on the spacer? What tightening torque figure are you using?( a repeated question)

One thing that I'm confidant that the car will do, is to correctly take care of any demand that you place on the alternator, in terms of when you switch on heated windows and lights etc.

More like very inaccurate info, the alternator will always charge the battery in normal driving but only up to a certain level of SOC, leaving enough "space" for it does when it is making use of what would otherwise be wasted energy that the system does during the over run and/or braking phase to "cram" as must extra charge as will be accepted by the battery, that is known as regenerative braking on these cars.

Well, one thing that the 1.4 16V petrol engines suffered from, round about the 2008>2009 production period, was duff/possibly leaking O-ring seals on the engine oil separator, and that can lead to a film of oil existing on the lower surface of the inlet manifold, and maybe even dripping down from there. But as said or inferred earlier, which engine is in this car? Edit:- okay, I’d forgotten the “TSI” being mentioned, so dump my first suggestion and check the PCV .

Seeing as you have a DVM plugged in at all times, the clues to having a healthy battery is that when you are driving "under power" as opposed to "on the over run", that DVM should be reading 12.6/7/8 and a bit less at idle when stopped at lights. The battery in my wife's 2015 VW Polo is an EFB and it sometimes does not end up well enough charged at the end of a run to enable auto stop/start - but I have worked out that that is only down to the way that "journey has gone" as I find that I can frequently end up with the car harvesting the charge from the battery - to save wasting energy. Driving in an "energetic/aggressive" manner will usually mean avoiding that happening - but give you worse MPG figures!