rum4mo

Best to ask the next workshop to hand you back the old clutch parts, just in case the plate is getting contaminated.

Better to get your local Skoda dealership parts department to order 4 in for you if you feel the need to change them.

Maybe I've put myself in a fortunate position, but, as I swop wheels/tyres every 6 months (Summer<>Winter), I measure the tyre tread depth at 3 points across the width of each tyre when removing the wheels, doing that lets me check if the tyres are being used at too high a pressure or too low a pressure - typically, with fuel economy in mine, I tend to be running with pressures set on both our cars, that errs towards "too high".

Just a passing comment now that you have mentioned that you have a 36mm 12 point (BiHex) socket, that you have probably used in the past on the front hub nuts, if the rear hub nut is the same for rear drum brakes as for rear disc brakes, then it is a 30mm 12 point (BiHex) socket that you will need if you plan on ever removing the rear hub(s).

What you have described sounds more like being a physical "thing" with that wheel's brake shoes, like not be allowed or forced to centre or something else concerning the springs, pivots hold downs or wedge adjustment/condition. The ABS system just modulates the fluid flow to the 4 wheels in response to one or more locking up.

I consider that it makes sense to examine these exposed belts and make your own judgement on when to replace them, personally, I'd rather replace a good enough looking belt at 10 years than worry about it actually failing when far away from home. Tensioner assembly, maybe just check it out while the belt is off and if it feels/sounds a bit worn, then replace it. This was not usually an issue when cam belts and water pumps that were driven by the cam belt, were getting replaced every 4 or 5 years, as the workshop, if you gave that job to a workshop, would normally make that decision for you! (annoyingly for me, once only 3 months after I had replaced that belt - oh well.) Edit:- really as you have considered this task, just do it and then you can forget about worrying about it, for some reason I probably still buy belts from VW Group - maybe I didn't trust any application list I had checked for favoured aftermarket suppliers, just my money my choice.

I've found that once you have got your first TPMS warning "under your belt" - and found no credible reason for it, then the next time you should still pay attention to it and check the tyre pressure, but understand that any/all these systems can throw out a "ghost" warning, better safe than sorry, I still trust that these indirect systems will give me warning of a tyre losing pressure though - so a lot better than no TPMS.

I think that most tyre/steering chains now have "alignment benchs/tables" - that sort of thing should be able to check camber, though a few years ago, my local one did not seem to have worked out what was needed to check the castor! These rear bonded bushes do end up distorted in some cases and the material torn in others, I got the LHS one replaced under the 3 year warranty on my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, when changing the tyres to "winter" at the start of last winter, I spotted that the RHS rear mounting bush looked a bit distorted - as in the centre alloy bush had separated from the rubber material - so I replaced these bushes on both sides a few days ago, the hole in the rubber on the RHS is now oval with an "air gap" at each end, so that bush would be allowing quite a bit of "extra" movement - but no sign of uneven wear on the removed winter tyres - and I do measure them at 3 points after swopping tyres/wheels. Next idea might be to check the track rods as the inner swivel joints can end up wearing and having a bit of free movement, I had that on a 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V at around 90K miles, it had been reported as an advisory at the MOT, so I just replaced both track rods and maybe even both TREs. Why I'm suggesting this is, if there is some slack in these track rods, the steering geometry will be free to move about.

That's a good idea, ie using a pair of gloves with something hard inside them, when I had or had reason to work on rear drum brakes, I tended to find that I was mainly working on them in winter, so after pressing down hard on the first retainer ring and rotating it with a bare finger, that finger was numb! I did have more success with a pair of pliers but even using that sensible method quite often ended up with nipping fingers when pliers slipped or everything going well but limited access meant that if the pin ended up rotating slightly, I'd run out of "rotating space"! I never ever failed to quickly get these retainers back on, but usually a bit of unnecessary physical pain was included, so I bought one of the tools designed for doing that job - then suddenly there were no cars in our family that had rear drum brakes to use that tool on! This is the sort of tool that was being referred to earlier by @VWD Sealey VS036 Drum Brake Shoe SPRING WASHER TOOL - Remove Install - Large & Small | eBay plenty other cheaper ones, I even bought a "hook" for refitting the big springs and so avoid using "wire and pliers".

I’ve had one fitted to both cars for many many years, I’d think that the OP’s not planning on starting to use that sort of thing AFTER the emergency services have turned up - so in this case your comment is irrelevant. They are intended, I’ve always assumed, to be used as a form of “self help” before outside help turns up.

Anyone know what is so different about this "size" of SUV and its hatch etc cousins across the VW Group marques that makes this issue something that "will" happen eventually to most owners - at least for people that run the "mid engine powered" versions?

Strange, I've never ever had any problems getting the handbrake cable end "block" over the calliper handbrake lever, so always used a suitable screwdriver to ease it over the lever - which will start moving the lever in the right direction - and I keep the handbrake in good adjustment, ie making sure that there is the required clearance between the lever and the stop when the handbrake is "off". I'm writing this in the hope that it stops you needing to mess about with the cable adjustment, for no other reason. Or, did you write "brake calliper" in error if your car has rear drum brakes?

If, and only if, the front brake callipers have a vertical spring (looks like a wire) running down the edge of the calliper body, then I'd think that they will be 288mm and so ATE FN3 (54mm pistons).

This request to replace the rear discs and pads could have worked if you had it a condition on buying that car at the agreed price, now as you seem to have agreed the price, I would not expect that dealer to be willing to spend any of their money on it now. As said earlier, rear discs on these cars do or can end up in that condition easily, if/when you replace these discs(and get new pads), if you chose say Pagid discs, then I'd expect that they would not "blacken up" quite as quickly as the original Skoda discs. My oldest daughter's May 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra has horrible looking black rear discs, and I've already had to replace the rear brake pads as they wear down quickly probably due to the enhanced braking safety functions on that car, right now its mileage is only roughly 24,000 miles, my youngest daughter's May 2019 SEAT Arona 1.0TSI 115PS also has horrible black rear discs and well used rear pads at roughly 31,000 miles - if possible, I'd like to replace her car's rear discs and pads if/when they visit us, MOT testers have not yet made any comments on the state of these rear discs on either car as they probably know that they will still still function as intended - and there is a lot of it about due to the reasons given already. Good Luck with getting that dealer to replace them probably using aftermarket brands, like Pagid, before you collect it though! (if you don't ask you don't get)

I'm guessing that you don't have the TSI engine versions then. I used to get my 2011 Audi S4 MOT'd at the local Audi garage, basically as they would be in a better position to immediately or quickly get and replace any failed parts. That only worked until its second MOT from new, ie 2015 then I got advisories on a few front suspension bushes, which when I examined them, all looked to be in very good condition! So maybe 9.5 years later, I'm considering replacing a couple of these bushes, but I'm now using a VW Group Indie for MOTs and they have yet to pass out any advisories. I agree with AG Falco, nothing to bother about yet and I'm surprised that an honest MOT tester has passed comments on these bushes in that condition. I do intend to replace them on both sides on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI before its next MOT in August.

So the source of this problem, probably after scanning the car, was found to be a seat sensor.

I agree with the above and I similarly have been making sure that I avoid buying VW Group cars that don't have rear disc brakes. since 2000, and yes I do all my own brake servicing.

In both cases it might just be an intermittent wiring problem, that is unless there is a known S/W issue with these cars.

I'd think that you are correct to include the stalk assembly, a workshop with a suitable diagnostic tool could work out if the BCM O/Ps were following the I/P demands.

With a car this new, why take risks, just buy a 1 litre container of pre-mixed (50/50) G12evo from any VW Group dealership. I'd doubt if Halfords etc are up to date with truly 100% compatible coolant for this age of VW Group car.

Are the bolts for fixing the calliper fist to the calliper carrier not just item "3" in the first parts diagram, and the bolts fixing the calliper carrier to the hub bracket not item "13" again in the first parts diagram?

The control stalks on this model of Polo/Ibiza/Fabia and even maybe A1 tend to be "not very good" - I've yet to discover that personally but it sounds like maybe you have! Maybe attempt to take the relevant section of the stalk apart and see if it looks like it has failed/burnt contacts, then see if a good clean up gets it back working.

The answer that I got when I queried the movement of an item being sent via Evri was, "a very short time is given for an item passing through a main handling hub", so after "its clock" has run out, that package tends to get either returned to sender, binned as waste or added to an auction list of packages, which, for their business model, probably makes good sense. For us waiting at the other end, not so good, to be fair though, I was very surprised that Evri was interested in talking to me as I was not the original sender - so not their customer, but I felt that I had to do that as my supplier was just taking the line "oh it will turn up soon" and even got grumpy when I advised them that Evri had accepted that that package was officially listed as "lost in transit" . That package laid low for maybe 6 weeks, then started moving out of the first hub and stuttered around the country, showing up on my door step maybe 2 months later, by that time the tracking number been deleted and then re-appeared again, very strange, my trader had quickly handed me back my money after I demanded to know what their next planned move was though, maybe 3 weeks after I paid for that item. That also happened to something that I bought in from China - I was only doing that as UK suppliers don't want to sell small volumes of some stuff to UK residents without charging an absolute fortune, that time it was Hermes that were handing the UK side of the couriering, package came in on time, passed through customs okay, got to Hermes main hub for incoming goods from abroad, then did not move for 2 days, then the tracking record was removed, turned out that it had been returned to my supplier in China who was no longer interested in that sort of nonsense, so I needed to find another supplier in China again - well ebay found another seller, and it worked out okay that time.

Ah, so you’ve organised a new bit, I must have started writing that post while you were posting!

I was wrong there, it is not LED on Fabia, a WY5W 12V 5W yellow/orange bulb. p/n for RHS is 6V0 949 102. LHS is 6V0 949 101 that is for the clear plastic part. Edit:- if you are into looking at VW Group parts listings it can be found in the “body” section, so 941 - 040 items 30 and 31(for the bulb).