rum4mo

Any fully VW Group compliant scan tool will point to what it thinks is causing the fault, so yes, if a ABS wheel sensor, it will identify which one. You could check the "VCDS locator map" to see if anyone close to you is reg'd and ask to make contact. Where, roughly, in Scotland are you located?

One thing that I can't enlighten @Jackhodge998 on is, the exact location of the plug/socket for that bonnet switch, I never ever noticed it on my wife's previous 2002 Polo, but on her 2015 Polo, it sticks out like a sore thumb very high up just at the washer fluid tank, which seems a very obvious or important position for something that hopefully never needs anyone to gain access to, strange.

Yup, that would have been an easy fix, but you could always try unplugging the lead to the bonnet micro switch and stuff a paper clip across it, I'm guessing that if its open circuit that equates to "bonnet open" and if it is short circuit that equates to "bonnet closed" - but that is purely a guess as doing that would make it fail safe for cars that show an open bonnet - like most/all later cars. If that worked, then the "Low oil level"| light would get reset until you let it run low again. My logic was, the previous owner kept an eye on the oil level as maybe he knew it "liked" a bit of oil added frequently, and so even if the bonnet micro switch was faulty, it would never have caused any issues, you then bought this car and basically didn't quite keep on top of checking the essential fluids and the "Low oil level" warning appeared - and if the bonnet switch was faulty that warning would never get cleared just by adding in oil. Edit:- even leaving out stuffing a paper clip into the removed lead as I'd think that open circuit for a few minutes would be enough to reset the low oil level warning - if that bonnet switch was in deed faulty.

For goodness sake, has the OP not said that the dash display does not register the bonnet being open, while it does so for all other doors and hatches, I'd be sorting that out before buying a new low level sensor, much cheaper.

I'm reading/interpreting what you wrote as " on the dash each door and hatch opened show on up - but when the bonnet is opened it does not show up", if that is the case, then sort out the micro switch and/or lead before looking elsewhere would be my plan. Edit:- in other words, the car's systems need to know that the bonnet has been opened before it will revisit and clear the low oil level warning, logically, if the bonnet has not been opened then the oil level can not have changed, if that makes sense.

Could this not now just be the bonnet lock micro switch sticking in the "bonnet closed" state - so until that is sorted you could put a lot more oil in and still have that warning showing.

Yup, as it turns out. Edit:- they seem to able to supply Lesjofors road springs, which could be handy in future.

I had that noisy rear pads experience from buying from ECP way back in maybe 2008, bought new Pagid or Textar pads for my 2000 VW Passat 4Motion - I contacted the UK sales arm of TMD Friction and they sent out the correct kit FOC, that sorted that out! Electric handbrakes, yes, maybe not ideal, but they do have their advantages - after a while.

I always thought that Dingbro will only deal with trade customers, the one reason why I've never, as a DIYer, checked them out for parts. As they had a branch almost next to where I used to work (South Gyle Embra), I went in to buy a trolley jack many many years ago as I had an urgent need for one to use at work, paid with my own cash and they muttered about not wanting to deal with non trade customers, which I suspected would be the case, so never went back for personal car parts.

If you look on the SEATCUPRA forum, there has been a few people finding that there is cable connection, ie plug pin>socket pin, within the rear hatch, that can get wet and so end up with a "bad" connection, I'd think that Fabia and Polo will be roughly the same in this area. Failing that, there is always the possibility that a cable has ended up shearing on the cable run between the car body and the hatch - ie in the area that is covered by a flexible rubber sleeve.

Yes, sorry, "first impressions" and all that, not a good look/experience. I would not be too sure that some of the grumpy ones are not women, though they might not know it.

I've contacted DVSA about an issue - and not one that had happened to me - yet, they will claim to note any contacts from drivers/owners and reply to emails, I'd think that after that it will be up to many many others to contact them before they take any action, like communicating with the car manufacturer's UK representative, any follow up action with depend on how that comms with the car manufacturer's UK representative went. All the communications that they receive will get it's own reference number.

Well, if you had or borrowed or bought a multi meter, you could find out more.

Best to ask the next workshop to hand you back the old clutch parts, just in case the plate is getting contaminated.

Better to get your local Skoda dealership parts department to order 4 in for you if you feel the need to change them.

Maybe I've put myself in a fortunate position, but, as I swop wheels/tyres every 6 months (Summer<>Winter), I measure the tyre tread depth at 3 points across the width of each tyre when removing the wheels, doing that lets me check if the tyres are being used at too high a pressure or too low a pressure - typically, with fuel economy in mine, I tend to be running with pressures set on both our cars, that errs towards "too high".

Just a passing comment now that you have mentioned that you have a 36mm 12 point (BiHex) socket, that you have probably used in the past on the front hub nuts, if the rear hub nut is the same for rear drum brakes as for rear disc brakes, then it is a 30mm 12 point (BiHex) socket that you will need if you plan on ever removing the rear hub(s).

What you have described sounds more like being a physical "thing" with that wheel's brake shoes, like not be allowed or forced to centre or something else concerning the springs, pivots hold downs or wedge adjustment/condition. The ABS system just modulates the fluid flow to the 4 wheels in response to one or more locking up.

I consider that it makes sense to examine these exposed belts and make your own judgement on when to replace them, personally, I'd rather replace a good enough looking belt at 10 years than worry about it actually failing when far away from home. Tensioner assembly, maybe just check it out while the belt is off and if it feels/sounds a bit worn, then replace it. This was not usually an issue when cam belts and water pumps that were driven by the cam belt, were getting replaced every 4 or 5 years, as the workshop, if you gave that job to a workshop, would normally make that decision for you! (annoyingly for me, once only 3 months after I had replaced that belt - oh well.) Edit:- really as you have considered this task, just do it and then you can forget about worrying about it, for some reason I probably still buy belts from VW Group - maybe I didn't trust any application list I had checked for favoured aftermarket suppliers, just my money my choice.

I've found that once you have got your first TPMS warning "under your belt" - and found no credible reason for it, then the next time you should still pay attention to it and check the tyre pressure, but understand that any/all these systems can throw out a "ghost" warning, better safe than sorry, I still trust that these indirect systems will give me warning of a tyre losing pressure though - so a lot better than no TPMS.

I think that most tyre/steering chains now have "alignment benchs/tables" - that sort of thing should be able to check camber, though a few years ago, my local one did not seem to have worked out what was needed to check the castor! These rear bonded bushes do end up distorted in some cases and the material torn in others, I got the LHS one replaced under the 3 year warranty on my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, when changing the tyres to "winter" at the start of last winter, I spotted that the RHS rear mounting bush looked a bit distorted - as in the centre alloy bush had separated from the rubber material - so I replaced these bushes on both sides a few days ago, the hole in the rubber on the RHS is now oval with an "air gap" at each end, so that bush would be allowing quite a bit of "extra" movement - but no sign of uneven wear on the removed winter tyres - and I do measure them at 3 points after swopping tyres/wheels. Next idea might be to check the track rods as the inner swivel joints can end up wearing and having a bit of free movement, I had that on a 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V at around 90K miles, it had been reported as an advisory at the MOT, so I just replaced both track rods and maybe even both TREs. Why I'm suggesting this is, if there is some slack in these track rods, the steering geometry will be free to move about.

That's a good idea, ie using a pair of gloves with something hard inside them, when I had or had reason to work on rear drum brakes, I tended to find that I was mainly working on them in winter, so after pressing down hard on the first retainer ring and rotating it with a bare finger, that finger was numb! I did have more success with a pair of pliers but even using that sensible method quite often ended up with nipping fingers when pliers slipped or everything going well but limited access meant that if the pin ended up rotating slightly, I'd run out of "rotating space"! I never ever failed to quickly get these retainers back on, but usually a bit of unnecessary physical pain was included, so I bought one of the tools designed for doing that job - then suddenly there were no cars in our family that had rear drum brakes to use that tool on! This is the sort of tool that was being referred to earlier by @VWD Sealey VS036 Drum Brake Shoe SPRING WASHER TOOL - Remove Install - Large & Small | eBay plenty other cheaper ones, I even bought a "hook" for refitting the big springs and so avoid using "wire and pliers".

I’ve had one fitted to both cars for many many years, I’d think that the OP’s not planning on starting to use that sort of thing AFTER the emergency services have turned up - so in this case your comment is irrelevant. They are intended, I’ve always assumed, to be used as a form of “self help” before outside help turns up.

Anyone know what is so different about this "size" of SUV and its hatch etc cousins across the VW Group marques that makes this issue something that "will" happen eventually to most owners - at least for people that run the "mid engine powered" versions?

Strange, I've never ever had any problems getting the handbrake cable end "block" over the calliper handbrake lever, so always used a suitable screwdriver to ease it over the lever - which will start moving the lever in the right direction - and I keep the handbrake in good adjustment, ie making sure that there is the required clearance between the lever and the stop when the handbrake is "off". I'm writing this in the hope that it stops you needing to mess about with the cable adjustment, for no other reason. Or, did you write "brake calliper" in error if your car has rear drum brakes?