rum4mo

A different car, but on my wife's 2015 Polo, when I press the middle button, you don't actually hear anything happening, but the boot will have unlocked and that area removed from the alarm system, if I then open the hatch and close it, the boot is relocked etc, if I wait about and don't open the boot/hatch, it will relock after a short period of time - same as the rest of the car will if the top button is pressed and then no doors are opened within a certain period of time.

Without me digging deeper, that wheel size comment is normally what is handed out to distinguish between the brake versions fitted to cars from factory with smaller wheels and those with bigger wheels - ie to make sure that there is clearance for the discs. My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, for example, has that comment against the official build data options listing, so in its case "15 wheels" option where it comes with 16 alloys as standard. Edit:- that car has a 15" steel spare, so okay to use with that brake option.

Oh yes, the ones I mentioned earlier for Golf R32 and Audi TT are solid as are the Cupra ones.

Well when my wife's 2015 VW Polo started exhibiting front end droning between 60>65MPH, when it had its winter wheels/tyres on, I optimistically blamed it on the road surface in Ayrshire in Scotland, then, a few months later, it started showing up on road surfaces in some other regions, so I changed my ideas/thoughts and blamed it purely on the winter wheel/tyres. That worked well for a few more months until I changed to summer wheels/tyres, then it became obvious that it was front wheel bearing - so I replaced the hubs on both sides and that sorted that out!

Yes, the vertical bushes are easier to replace than the old horizontal ones - well for a DIYer anyway.

Yes the old "Halfords cheaper than ECP" while Halfords are sourcing these parts from ECP, something that I've become aware of - but ALWAYS check to make sure that is true and don't just assume it is, because it isn't always true. I was recently wanting to buy Lemforder lower swivels for a 2015 VW Polo, slightly cheaper from Halfords, BUT as stocks are low, Halfords are declaring them "not available" while ECP was still selling them. Annoyingly, the Halfords website was not really declaring them "not available" - just sending me round in a loop when I tried to select them, so please note that Halfords website has not been designed and maintained by a competent software house, just thicko's or lazy stupid people. I had to stop raging to myself and get around chatting to a "bot" before this was pointed out, no "sorry our website is terrible" just "item is showing as being not available", ah well! While on the topic of parts, if using Halfords or ECP, please be aware that ECP is playing some "funky" games/tricks at times - like when I checked for the Sachs part number for rear springs for a 2015 VW Polo, ordered them online from ECP, what was handed over was not the correct Sachs part number on the Sachs branded boxes, just no Sachs label instead a ECP label with what I know is a Lesjofors set of part numbers for a shorter spring! So needed to create a "returns" via the ECP website and hand them back in, ECP "contact us" help said just to aske the branch that I use to source the correct Sachs parts - and that did not turn out to be a option, a bit annoying using ECP, but I end up close to them every Wednesday while we look after a grandson. I keep saying that for a DIYer, using ECP can sometimes save you time and money, and can be convenient, but only if you really really do your homework.

Copied from info that I collected a few years ago when I first looked into buying a tool to press out/press in new TCA rear mounting bushes. "Lemforder list p/n 2111301 for 1J0 407 181, but also list 357801 as a replacement for 6R0 407 181 B which seems to be the “sports suspension” equivalent part, or the Golf R32/Audi TT part 8N0 407 181B, Lemforder list p/n 2713201 same as Meyle HD 100 407 0073/HD or Febi 26535. Ie, stock bush Polo is 1J0 407 181, stock bush Ibiza Cupra Bush 6R0 407 181 B" I bought my new (voided) bushes from ECP and they were Lemforder but also had the VW Group part number moulded onto them, I did not check if ECP sell the other versions. Edit:- listed for the 2023 Fabia is 2Q0 407 183 B, in the comments field is "60" and the nominal OD of the bushes that I bought and fitted to the 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS was also 60mm, so I reckon that this newer version is the same but modified from the original one, to add some confidence to that suggestion, the fixing bolt for the 2023 Fabia is the same as it is for the 2015 VW Polo, so maybe that is another option to stiffen things up and gain more reliability than changing to the solid version - though fitting the solid version is simpler as there is no "rotational" requirements. Another Edit:- maybe give that newer version a miss unless you can confirm that the length of the centre steel bush is the same as for the earlier versions, the ebay pics of the Lemforder equivalent part does make me think that the centre steel bush is longer than the earlier ones.

I got one replaced under new warranty on my wife’s August 2015 VW Polo at just under the 2 years old point as I had noticed it had a tear in it. Then a month or so ago I replaced both sides as the original RHS one had the centre metal bush broken free from the rubber, the other side that had been replaced at the 2 year point, looked okay apart from slight cosmetic delaminating. After examining the RHS one, when out/off the car, it’s centre metal bush was tilted and the hole in the rubber had permanently deformed to look “egg” shaped, it had been causing a bit of a knock at times. I’ve just written that so that it can be seen that these mountings can last at least 30,000miles/7 years - depending on use. I had always set my mind on fitting solid versions but was concerned about NVH, I did get. a VAG indie to replace the torn console bushes in my wife’s old 2002 VW Polo and they worked very well that was on a Petrol engined Polo. I’m not at home at the moment so I can’t offer you any part numbers of the solid versions, but I will try to do that tonight.

I can hear the sound, but really it would need recording for a lot longer to separate the "movements" noises from what you are worried about.

Sounds more like a servo motor hunting, this happens a lot in VW Group since at least 2000, these servo motors operate the "heater" air direction and air blend for temperature control and the potentiometer mounted on each one, which is part of the feedback system to control the flap's position, gets "dirty" and so the control of the motor is lost and so it moves beyond that point and so to being in the wrong position which is detected and then it reverses and moves back beyond where it should be - and oscillates hence the ticking. Sometimes if you are lucky, it is just due to the system trying to get in control of the demanded air temperature and it will settle down.

Yes, Jurid is or was a factory supplier to VW Group or more likely a supplier to TRW or whoever supplied the built up front "units" for VW SA, as my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI had originally Jurid front brake pads - and maybe even the NOS genuine VW Group replacement pads that are on it now after the front discs inner faces started to have a build up of corrosion and so wasted the inner pads! So now Pagid HC discs and new VW Group pads.

@Doily, there is a chance that they could just be using simple terms to explain what they could do to/for your car, if you were interested in paying them more - or, maybe as said already, helping you lighten your wallet. While the rear suspension is not adjustable as such, they could carry out more checks to make sure that it has not been damaged, and everything is still fit for use, like the mounting bushes, the front subframe can be moved around slightly to help align the front end to the fixed rear end. I'm guessing that they do have a proper alignment jig/bench, but initially you like most other people have only asked for the toeing to be checked/corrected - and maybe they don't really know how to make full use of its other features. I'll confess now to asking my local KwikFit to check/adjust the front toe of an Ibiza after I had replaced the track rods and ends, getting that done cost a lot more than I had expected (from the days when toeing check/adjust was just that), but I was given a full alignment printout or "before" and "after" - I gathered from that experience that no human input was involved when measuring the caster! Maybe time for me to get that done on my wife's 2015 Polo now that I've done a "spring-damper" refresh and TCA rear bushes replacement, and see if they now know how to use that kit fully.

I'd always think that it would be a better plan to keep the car wiring as it is and modify the lead out to the pad, so that this can be reversed in the future maybe by the next owner. It sounds like you will not be able to code this out yourself if what Breezy Pete wrote confused you, maybe get a workshop to do that for you - if it is legal to do that in your country.

I'm surprised that if you can back the "flying lead" from the old pad twist the wires together and solder them and then seal in heat shrink tubing - preferably the type with heat activated adhesive/sealant, that the brake warning light did not go off. If you have VCDS, you should be able to find where the "brake wear sensor fitted " coding is and switch it off, I seem to remember needing to switch my on in my 2000 VW Passat 4Motion as it came new with that feature not enabled! Edit:- Fords, at least from back in the 1980's used a 3 wire system, so leaving the cable unplugged would force a flashing light, but any VW Group ones I've seen from 2000 > 2019 only have a 2 wire system.

Which is the exact reason why I reported the fact that they were not selling the full range of pads, to TMD Friction UK ie probably the sales office of Mintex, back in maybe 2008 when I needed to buy new Pagid rear pads for my 2000 VW Passat 4Motion, the only Pagid offering from ECP had no anti-squeal "bits", which was almost okay as long as the sunroof was closed, and their only TMD Friction offering for the front brakes, Textar was listed on the TMD Friction webcat as being only for use in Japan! That resulted in me being sent out (by TMD Friction UK), the correct pads for both ends FOC, which was good. Edit:- possibly similar iffyness concerning ECP and Sachs products, I bought a pair of rear dampers for my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI SEL, only when back home did I check the Sachs part number of the supplied parts - they were for a different rear damper PR code, so I contacted ECP online and they supplied me with the correct ECP stock number, which I went in to buy, but, initially, as I was buying from my online ECP account and that car was the default car selected while buying them, they kept disappearing as ECP was not listing them for that model/version of car, so I had to remove that car's details and so I don't know which marque and model of car ECP had them listed against, just something else to watch out for when ordering from ECP, I normally go for collection with all my facts "to hand" - but this time I failed! Return time for unused or faulty parts is now only 60 days with ECP which is fair enough, in the past it used to be 365 days I think, just something else to be aware of, which is the same for Halford for parts supplied to them by ECP.

You really are just searching in the dark without being able to actually check what the system pressure is doing, both on the suction side(low) and the discharge side(high), these systems are designed to get "critically charged" and so will not tolerate overcharging - especially in hot weather. Checking with a fridge manifold set is best, but checking what the system pressure sensor thinks is going on by using a scan tool like VCDS etc is also useful.

That's horrible news and I hope that it is not quite as bad as that, as being bought by ECP would mean that the range would be compressed down to as few different parts as absolutely possible - or even less! So was that just Pagid of was it the complete group of companies that were under TMD Friction? I had heard that Pagid in some countries including UK, were manufacturing for some of ECP's "special" brands - but probably nothing wrong in grabbing a bit of that action as a subcontract job.

One thing though, could you let us know the model of the battery that Halfords sold you, and the engine type and output of your Fabia, just in case Halford sold you the wrong battery. Edit:- also, as you are now a Halfords customer, do they not offer a preferential rate/cost for them to code that battery to your car at their premises? Another Edit:- so they charge £30 for coding the battery to the car, seems fair enough if you don't have the means to do it yourself. I will not bother commenting on the cost of batteries from Halford as that choice has already been made, I'm surprised that the AA did not push to supply fit and code one of their choice which is Bosch.

I'd think that it would be a good plan to get Halfords to code that battery to your car. Seeing any aftermarket parts on a car must put dealership's noses out of joint - "how dare you" sort of thing.

Or even easier, the 288mm callipers have a vertical wire "spring" running down the outer face. The issue with pads for certain brakes only being available with wear sensors occurs right across some models and marques. The solution is just to cut the wiring off as close to the top of the pad as possible, I tried desperately to find the correct front pads for my wife's 2015 VW Polo that does not have brake wear system included - then properly read the comments in an online parts car, what was written was basically use the ones with a brake wear sensor built in (as there are not any supplied by VW Group that don't have a wear sensor) and cut off the sensor. Edit:- I've never noticed any useful identification on at least the later version of these 288mm callipers, even having owned a car from new with them, the version on some 2015 cars is FN3 in the case of my wife's Polo, FN3 - 54, ie 54mm pistons.

Is it really a safe thing to do to fit anything between the "emergency use only intended" scissors jack and the car's frame? I would not do that, all the pucks etc that I've ever seen are for use with a stable trolley jack. Each to their own but, why invite danger - unless I'm missing something.

I did understand that, but still added that comment to suggest why they had not returned.

That member last visited this website/forum a few days after that final posting, have their "lips been sealed"? Ie set conditions for resolving this issue, just idle speculation on my part, but could be true.

I’m guessing that while the bonnet switch lead was unplugged that the car would think that the bonnet was open, applying a short should, I’m guessing look like the bonnet was closed.

But, now that you have hopefully simulated the micro switch working, as far as the car knows, and if the oil was high enough, and of course if the bonnet switch is faulty, you should now have cleared that oil level warning. If it is still there, the root cause lies elsewhere like the wiring, maybe a fuse, or the oil level sensor.