rum4mo

It seems like using Google can show you some info - well that usually works to connect you with some useful stuff and some not quite so useful - that was just a general statement as I've found the "search" function in most car forums are very very picky and so yield zip all.

Humm, if in doubt get rid of it. I might play that game with my motor mower, but never with my cars, I use the contents of my “top up” the next service and refill with new oil, while the “oil” will last a long time, it has been said, the additives will not - so I’ve taken that on board rather than taking my chances.

Bother, "turbocharger boost control" seems to be another "fashionable" issue to befall the 1.0TSI engines, no good guessing though as to what exactly is causing this.

As above, guessing is for silly people, if I was silly I'd suggest "Throttle Body issues" - quite fashionable for later cars than your wife's one - but until you have checked for logged faults, many simpler/cheaper things are possible, Probably no MAF sensors in these engines.

As above - exactly the same for VW Polos!

Quite a lot of Lemforder stuff is made in China nowadays, as well as Malaysia and of course Germany - all with the, in my case, Audi roundels ground off, a bit of a surprise but I'm hoping that quality standards are being maintained! I'm just mentioning that as you mentioned Lemforder.

I'd think that these parts are not made to be disassembled without destroying them or in other words rendering them not fit to be reassembled and trusted in the future, if I were you, I'd just buy a new one - having a working and reliable fuel cap works for me, though all our cars have locking covers so basic fuel caps. Edit:- wait a minute, there is a "lock cylinder" listed in the Skoda parts listing - so maybe you can buy one to suit your car's key! Skoda part number 107 201 551 FJ

I bought an "extra Torx" size just because I was sure that VW Group used it - wrong! There used to be a really good tool shop in Edinburgh, they even held/got buckets of old tools probably from company closures, lots of altered/bespoked stuff in these buckets getting sold for next to nothing, really handy if you felt it was "just what I was looking for", they also sold higher quality tools, a big loss when they shut up shop(s).

Ah, "male" Torx that have E numbering, I've not started acquiring them - yet.

@nta16Don't you mean XZN ie 12 point or multi spine? I wonder if that part has anti tamper or security screw on it, VW Group tends to use them on parts that are not meant to be taken apart - if that is the case here, maybe the bolts that secure it to the car are elsewhere. Something prompted me to buy RIB a few years ago - fills a space in my tools storage system!

Maybe, if you are concerned, dig a bit deeper, I'm sure that this was the topic of either a recall or hushed up as a workshop action to check/change something away from how it was originally built by Skoda, normally this sort of action covers a named range of unit serial numbers going by production period that this issue was "allowed to happen". I'd be very concerned if I was you and you just got some local garage to sort this out, and certainly if I had used one that knew nothing about this issue. I'd probably send DVSA an email or use their online notification system as that would add to those that hopefully have already done this, in my world, with the early admission by VW Group or at least one of their marques, that this was a known issue that they had addressed - a lesser version of this occurred with the earlier 1.2TSI EA211 engines and that, I think, prompted either a change in the part or a change of venders or something else, to minimise the chance of this happening with later engines. This is not a "wear out" issue, it seems to be a poor/bad bit of design and/or manufacture of that part - I'd be spitting blood if I had to pay for a car manufacturer's error - well a big error like this.

Probably the plan is to drop all the coolant out, apply a vacuum then let that draw/drag the new coolant into the system, I've bought and used a Draper kit on my other car, a 2011 Audi S4, the other thing that I made up, was a reservoir fluid height extender which I fabricated by buying a cheapish replacement pressure cap, drilled out the pressure relief valve and bonded a length of poly water piping onto that re-purposed pressure cap. I've also resorted to removing the small "fluid return pipe" and applied a vacuum in a bid to prove to myself that the, in the case of that S4, that the charger heat exchangers had been fully flooded with new coolant. Edit:- or maybe just as important, I felt the need to be sure that the electric pump serving that sub-circuit, was filled with coolant - I'll be doing the same thing when I replace the G13 with G12evo in my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, for the same reason.

I've got the simpler sort of egg shaped 1/2" SQR DRV tool, it works well, though in recent years I just couldn't resist buying the type that you linked to, even bought one of these Y shaped things that might make manipulating lower arms of all types a bit easier when working by myself - not used yet!

I'm surprised that you got away with just pushing the lower arms down to get the strut out of its socket on the RHS, any of these Polos and Ibiza I've had to take the struts out of, I've had to take the RHS drive shaft out as it ends up fouling on the lower arm before the RHS strut has come out of its socket. Unless you used a version of the sort of dangerous trick of using a "2 X 4" .

That subassembly, that has the ribbed hose as part of it, started life as 04C 133 352 BC, later on it's part number changed to 4C0 133 353 AS and much later to it's current part number which is 04C 133 353 BF. It might be of interest to find out what exactly was altered to prompt these two part number changes - as maybe one thing that was changed was this weak/cheap design of ribbed pipe.

You know something, I've just bumped into this thread, my wife's July 2015 build, VW Polo with the 1.2TSI version of that EA211 engine, left the factory with a ribbed plastic pipe fitted to it's equivalent EVAP solenoid, it started to annoy me that I could hear "beep beep beeeeeep etc" under certain engine/car operating conditions - then I spotted a posting saying that VW Group had dumped using that ribbed pipe and were now fitting a pre-shaped smooth bore pipe to sort that noise out. So I annoyed my local VW dealership enough about this and they raised this issue with VW mothership, who pointed them in the direction of the new smooth bored pre-shaped "rubber" replacement pipe and fitted that under warranty, so that stopped that unnecessary noise which was due to that ribbed pipe being sort of tuned to the pulse duration of the EVAP solenoid. I'd think that over the years, VW Group will have got round to replacing that type of pipe for a pre-shaped smooth bore rubber version, on that model of engine - looking under the bonnet of a newer "same" car would reveal if they did or just blundered along with using that cheap crappy ribbed plastic pipe - in that, which looks like a badly designed/cheap layout, that pipe does end up being quite a bit longer than it was in the earlier 1.2TSI EA211 engines - every penny counts, f' the customer, money for old rope a few years down the line and repeat a some more years later?

One other thing that has been said to "happen" to these 1.0TSI engines is, the variable cam pulley "comes apart" and as it is powered by engine oil pressure, when that assembly comes loose - screws/bolts slacken off it seems, the pressurised engine oil escapes and that could account for the sudden lose of engine oil and drop in engine oil pressure. If that is what has happened, VW Group advise you to stop ASAP when you hear the first noises which should be coming from the cam shaft end of the engine - a good plan in theory, probably not so good in practise! If that is what has happened, you might be able to oil has been escaping from the RHS of the engine.

Probably more a "time" thing than "mileage" thing, so I would not expect your car to be suffering from front disc inner faces corroding, I'm slightly surprised that the OP ended up with that or claim of that at the 5 year point though, but seeing is believing - or not!

Yes, and maybe even fit the 15" with winter tyres, so get the best of both worlds, that is what I did for my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT, though if you are doing huge mileage, maybe this does not address your most important issue of frequent tyre changing, my wife's 2015 has only run 52,000 miles and both the 16" summer tyres and 15" winter tyres are not half worn down yet.

I managed to get the alternator out of a 2009 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 16V 86PS that had AC, maybe I ended up turning it on its end, I found the worst or trickiest bit was easing back the spacers that is in the alternator body. When the alternator failed in that car, I had just started it up and was driving out of the estate onto the main road when the warning light came on - turned round and grabbed my own car and dealt with that one much later. At that time, maybe 2013, I could not source locally any spare parts like a regulator/brushes assembly, it was a Bosch alternator "made in Spain" and the regulator was "made in UK" . I found that ECP sold 2 versions, the one for that car was quite expensive, the much cheaper alternative which I worked out had the same output voltage and max current had a slightly smaller drive pulley, ie so the actual alternator was the same model so I cheap skated and bought that, it was a Bosch factory refurbished VW Group one, so I swopped over the drive pulleys - fitted it and all was well.

Yes, the "hidden" inner face of brake discs quietly corroding - all looks good from the outer face condition, but not really the whole story! It was when I serviced the front brakes on my wife's 2015/50,000 mile VW Polo that I spotted uneven wear on the front inner pads - so time for new discs and pads. Rubber bonded mounting bushes, I suppose that they are only reporting what they have seen, I bought a slightly used 2011 Audi S4 back in 2013, just because it was not quite a "run of the mill" car, I thought that I was playing safe booking it into my local Audi dealer for MOTs, that worked for the 1st and 2nd MOT then at the 3rd one it got advisories for some of it's rubber bushes, now for an A4/s4 of that age, the mileage should have been maybe 60+K miles, mine was only 27K miles and I had already checked over ALL the suspension bushes, so for MOTs I quickly moved away to a proper local VAG Indie and many year later still have not had any advisories at MOT time - though to be honest, now approaching it's 14th birthday, some of the suspension bushes are showing their age and I have made up a kit of parts to replace them all later this year. Misting dampers, yes VW Group do have a "pass" or "fail" criteria for that, Crasher showed me pictures of both as my daughter's 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra, I consider, is now into the "fail" condition and should get replaced before the next MOT.

Yes, the final sentence is what is to be expected from this system as it is looking for changes/differences between the values/ratios when last reset to what they are now - ie as probably said already in this thread and others, this system is an indirect tyre pressure monitoring system and so is not actually able to measure tyre pressures - only the frequency of each wheel rotation.

I'm sure that I've read that VW Group have had some issues that they resolved by a S/W update - maybe press your Skoda dealership to check for that, or for them to log a request for technical help from Skoda mothership. I can't say which controller needed the S/W update so I'll not guess as logic sometimes does not work.

BEM codes were meant to mean that VW Group had a strangle hold of you (and your wallet) when it came to needing a new battery, maybe BMW also tried that handy trick as well, though with time that got "kicked into touch", so that was that. Luckily your car didn't need coding, probably the only use for BEM info in your car would be for dealer's to handle warranty claims on the original battery. I'd surprised that any/all Halfords branches are now not completely up to date with which cars needed battery coding carried out - and have the kit to do so if needed. Edit:- I'm sure that I coded in the new Bosch EFB that the AA fitted to my younger daughter's 2019 SEAT Arona - just in case the AA hadn't bothered to do that - they certainly hadn't cleared all the fault codes when the original battery died.

The "320A" rating for CCA is the DIN rating, that equates to 640 SAE which is the same battery as my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT has, also my younger daughter's 2019 SEAT Arona 1.0TSI 115PS 6MT has, and both are 59 or 60AHr EFB, AGM is better in my mind though, I've already bought a 70AmpHour 760A CCA SAE AGM for that 2015 Polo - but it doesn't seem to need it yet!