rum4mo

Not just a sheared wire between the car body and the hatch? Ie wire sheared but making when the hatched is open/partly open?

Yes, messing with cars helps keep you fit and active, including your brain! I've just carried out a "suspension refresh" on my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 11OPS SEL, my logic being, that car is now 9 years old and run 50,000 miles, so as I've run a 2002 Polo from new and a 2009 Ibiza for a few years, it was also bought new by my older daughter, and it and the Polo disgraced themselves at a busy time by ending up with a broken front spring, AND a broken rear spring, the rear springs were only spotted at MOT time, so I re-claimed the Polo and sorted it out and got it back in the VW garage for retesting that same day, the Ibiza got fixed by the MOT garage - all of that happened well within the 9 years 50,000 miles period, so I just felt the need to not be inconvenienced by that again! Two annoying issues during carrying out that work, first the LHS strut nuts were almost impossible to remove, slivers of metal coming off with the lower threaded sleeve, the top nut was just a fight all the way - VW dealership had changed a top mounting under warranty so rattle gun probably used a lot - that car also suffered a head "dropping off" one of the subframe bolts on that side, again an area visited by that VW dealership workshop during warranty! Professionals my bottom! The second annoying thing was, I was working to a tight time schedule and when I went to refit the front brake pipe into its holder bracket on the new LHS strut - it would not fit, the hole in these new Sachs aftermarket struts are about 0.5mm smaller than the factory fitted ones - I didn't have that issue back in maybe 2017 when I replaced the same struts on the 2009 Ibiza - very annoying, first one took a while to sort out as I was only using a file, the second side I used a Dremel sort of thing on the bracket after cleaning up the brake hose metal sleeve.

The cold start small noises, yes, my wife's August 2015 Polo with 51,000 miles has that - but I think that is just "the way it is" before the oil pressure is up to normal level. They have a timing belt - but a long life timing belt. In general I find this 1.2TSI 110PS engine to be a good choice for this size/weight of car, powerful enough not to make driving a chore and economic enough to be cheap to run, only one issue that I have using a car with an engine that gets lots of miles out of a gallon, and that is, it completely destroys my liking to drive my other car in a spirited manner! Going back to the cruise control retrofit thing, there are at least a couple of companies that provide cabling and if necessary hardware (not that you probably need the hardware) to retrofit cruise control, one being Kufatec and the other being Carsystems, I have not checked if either supply cabling for your car though, I have bought cabling from Kufatec via what was their UK agent for another task on my 2011 Audi S4.

Maybe the windscreen washer fluid is leaking in the hatch - and that is where the "water" is coming from, just a suggestion, if I were you I'd be getting the plastic trim panel off and investigate before rust becomes an issue.

I'm sure that I've read that a few people have ended up with a faulty/failed Throttle Body on any of these VW Group cars with small engines, so don't completely dismiss that it could be that - but reading about that is one thing, ending up in this situation is another. When replacing a Throttle Body, "adaption" sequence/procedure should be run using a suitable scan/diagnostics tool. I'm not sure at which point you should consider handing this car into a proper VW Group specialist for them to find out what the root cause of this - and for them to code in the new battery once you have fitted it. This could end up being a quick fix if/when you replace the Throttle Body with a new CORRECT one, then get a local proper VW Group Indie to run adaption on the new TB and code in the battery - or just be the start of replacing parts when there is another hidden problem. It's maybe okay for people like me who have VCDS (scan/diagnostic tool) to have a good poke around and end up taking a well thought out punt on it actually being the TB and buying a new one etc, so the only cash spend will be on the TB which at this moment I have no idea of the actual cost - and just put up with my parts buying error, but less so for someone hoping to learn/fix as cheaply as possible. Edit:- maybe tempting to grab a used one at the £50 > £70 price band, just avoid the ones that look like they have been submerged in salt water for a while!! That is if you feel lucky, but stick strictly to buying the same VW Group part number as that is still the only version listed for that engine.

Maybe include the engine code, some of these throttle bodies only have a single VW Group part number for the correct one.

That looks okay, that "top cap" is just top prevent the strut from "leaving" its correct location is something extraordinary happens to the car. The car still should be able to rotate these struts with the top bearing allowing for this to happen, and certainly, the springs should not end up "winding up" as the steering is applied. The top of the lower spring platform on the struts has a "pressing" that should assist in locating the springs when they have been fitted correctly - maybe check that the lower end of the springs is located against this "stop", it is located at the "front" of the strut spring platform on the LHS strut and so at the "rear" of the strut spring platform on the RHS strut - and maybe obviously, the lower spring coil should also be getting held within the 2 upturned guides on that lower strut spring platform. I've ended up with a partially seized top bearing on a 2002 VW Polo, and that was obvious to workout after getting it up onto stands and removing the steering from the hubs, I'd think that the front suspension on that car would have been making lots of noises when the steering wheel was turned - too long ago to remember! Edit:- it is never a good idea to place fingers within a car's coil springs, but in your case, as the springs are new, they should not be in danger of suddenly snapping and trapping your fingers. I noticed that one side of my wife's 2015 VW Polo (same car basically) was maybe 6mm lower than the other side - I check the ride height at service time, so I checked in that area, and the gap on the lower side was again maybe 6mm more than on the other side. This lower side is the original top mounting/bearing/spring seat, the higher side got a new top mounting under warranty - even although I think that it had nothing to do with what was the root cause of my complaint - which was VW Group, at that period of manufacture, using the gearbox mounting from the non turbo petrol engined cars on all non GTI petrol engined cars. I'm replacing the springs, mounts, bearings and struts, on that car right now, so I'll be very disappointed if it does not sit "level" after carrying out this work!

So the chain driven cam 8V early version of TSI, have you noticed any oil appearing/wetting the engine under the bonnet - like where the PCV tends to break off? Or oily smells getting into the cabin via the cabin air intake?

One comment about these drive shaft nuts, I've only taken 5 of these nuts off, some come off without damaging the locking tangs, some come off and the tangs have broken off, today's hub nut took a few attempts from my impact wrench, the locking tangs were still there but heavily marked - I'd fitted them a couple of years ago when I replaced the front wheel bearings, I hadn't expected that one today to put up that much of a fight - shows the locking element on that nut was really doing its job!

Yes, if you check up online, the tangs are hidden once the nut is fitted. My original 1/2" sqr drv socket set is all BIHex so good for use on these 12 pointed nuts - though I've been, over the years adding in as many Hex sockets as they should protect the nuts and bolt heads better - I even had to buy/add an extra BiHex socket to that old socket set for when I replace a lower suspension link arm on my 2011 Audi S4 as VW Group thought it a great idea to use a 12 point nut on the TREs! - as 21mm does not seem to have been a popular size of socket when I first added metric sockets to that old 1/2" sqr drv socket set!

Not good(obviously), this should not have happened if the battery change was being done correctly, or is this just another trap that can affect VW Group car ownership!

This sounds a bit different or weird, I've checked for Fabias from at least 2015 build up to 2025 build, and the only item securing the the outer end of the drive shaft to the hub, is the nut that I listed above, and also, this is the nut that has been used since at least 2002 build. One curious thing or anomaly is, for the 2024 build Fabia with an auto trans only, the parts diagram shows that item as being a bolt, but still lists it as being the nut I listed earlier. Edit:- same for VW Polo with 7 speed DSG, for that car the parts diagram even shows the end of the shaft does not had a male threaded section - then shows a nut and it has the same part number as above! This really needs a picture taking to let us see what is in/on there.

It should still be a large (36mm) 12 pointed nut that has built in/on locking tangs, so that means you need a slim(ish) 36mm BiHex socket if working on it. Buy one from any VW Group dealer's parts department, 6Q0 407 396 B Double Hex Nut M16 X 1.5 Edit:- extra info - "they cost more than a fiver!"

If you are still left wondering, take a look at the power steering fluid reservoir cap, it should have TRW moulded into it is if it TRW .

Somebody was bound to chip in with "its the Halford effect" - this time it is me, sorry!

I'm sure that most people that comment or complain about this is actually talking about something a lot more serious corrosion wise than the "overnight red rust" that you are referring to, certainly our daughter's 2019 Arona rear discs looks a quite nasty dark colour and it would take skimming/grinding to return them to "normal/acceptable", same for our older daughter's 2019 Leon Cupra rear discs - its nasty looking rear discs certainly helps it get through brake pads. My wife's 2015 Polo's rear discs did look not too good for the past year - then a rear calliper seized and caused a bit extra wear in a rear pad, so as well as replacing that rear calliper and pads, I also considered that a rear disc change was required, so it now has Pagid rear discs. While carrying out a brake clean up at this year's service, I discovered that a "good looking from the outer side" front disc, was really not too good on its inner face, so they and the pads got changed as well to Pagid. My 2011 Audi S4 is still on its second set of brake discs, originals replaced under warranty for causing vibration the paperwork claims, these still VW Group discs are still clean and smooth. It almost looks like it can be a luck of the draw as to which quality/brand or maybe just the actual manufacturer of brake discs supplied to VW Group that causes this variation in "survivability" in service.

Unfortunately the relay will be inside BCM - ie one of the car's smart controller. One other thing that can cause this is the indicator stalk, do all 4 hazard lights work always when you turn them on?

Are they not better getting professionals in as the recovered fuel will need to be disposed of, there are people that supply this service, I've even seen one fixing my next door neighbours error, but I can't remember what the name of that national provider is. Are they not in a "motoring service" like RAC/AA/GreenFlag? Edit:- I know that it is not an answer to your question, but maybe just give in and hand this job over to the professionals this time.

Our younger daughter and her husband hired a Peugeot 208 GT (badged as GT but probably GT-Line) when they were up in August, when it started up from cold, it made some serious "clacking" noises - probably flywheel/clutch related, I would not have expected that from a 6 month old 20,000mile car - but, the sound insulation worked so well that none of that noise was heard inside that car.

It is really just, with the car stationary, after checking and correcting the tyre pressures, go into the TPMS menu, STORE new pressures, then CONFIRM, then drive off and the system will quickly collect the data from all 4 wheels.

Maybe surprisingly they can or do work fine, I ended up with a chipboard screw in the centre of a rear tyre on my wife's 2015 Polo a couple of weeks ago! I had just left my local Skoda parts place (easier to get to than the local VW place), and the warning appeared as I drove up a slip road onto the city bypass, now, as I've had "ghost" warnings in the past on both of our cars, I chose to go by "feel", which seemed to be okay, and drove on to Screwfix a few miles further on, got out and checked the tyre that the alarm was indicating was the problem, the side wall felt less firm than it should - but the nice shiny screw sticking out of the centre of the tread really confirmed that that tyre was needing attention! So I managed to get home and stick a trolley jack under that wheel before it lost too much of its air - lucky I suppose. I've had a few occasions on my own car when its winter wheels were leaking air past the valve bodies where I've been reminded to top a tyre up, and the drop in pressure was only 5 > 8PSI down from where it had been at my previous tyre pressure check. (ended up with all the powder coated ie refurbished alloys leaking at the valve area - I've worked out that this was due to this being the point where the alloys get suspended from when being powder coated and so does not get any covering so will always end up with corrosion starting there)

That is only true for some manufacturer's TPMS, the usual or factory fitted system that VW Group includes in its "normal" cars, just uses the ABS sensor data - so no proper "tyre pressure" sensors with battery in them. Edit:- I'm sure that I've read that this problem has happened to other people with this indirect TPMS on VW Group cars, but I can't remember reading what the usual root cause and so fix is - maybe even a software update/patch.

If what has been written in a few VW Group forums is true, then it sounds a lot like it would be a good plan to suffer the inconvenience and time wasting, and get it booked into either a proper VW Group dealership, that can confirm that it has the correct kit to carry out this job on this engine, or find a proper VW Group Indie that can confirm that they have the kit that VW Group claims is needed or maybe even some aftermarket equivalent kit, I think that Laser Tools now supplies a kit for EA211 engine belt changing - this is certainly what I plan to do when the mileage of my wife's 2015 Polo gets "on a bit" currently only at 51,000miles. There is some chatter that it is only the 1.0TSI etc that has variable cam timing on both cams that can end up in a less than satisfactory state after the belt has been replaced - and I certainly do not want my wife's car to end up like that as it performs very well right now! Edit:- sorry, I've deleted that "Edit" as it was meant for another posting I was replying to when I got an alert to @classic's responds to this posting!

What surprised me when I removed the mountings from my wife's 2015 Polo with 50,000miles, was, the righthand side mounting, which was a factory fitted original one, the rubber had become very hard, there has been no tearing, but the central metal bush has been permanently deforming the solid rubber at the inner and other side of it, and so had created an oval bore, maybe 4mm clearance side to side/left<>right - well oval at the top and bottom, probably still near enough a circle and a tight fit to that metal bush at half depth point, so plenty free movement available as the suspension moved up and down, and no signs of any tearing - as I had thought would happen, anywhere on that mounting. Edit:- that Meyle part number is still the same as the Meyle part number I included in my pasting further up this thread.

I've always considered that as it is reading the ABS sensors, it is just a "frequency driven" system, so if any tyre(s) are replaced, the system needs to be "reset" to recognise what a "good" situation looks like in terms of relative differing RPMs from all 4 wheels. It is only when one changes frequency that the alarm should get triggered to alert you to "an issue".