rum4mo

@nta16, I've just checked up on the parts listing on IFI website (https://ifinterface.com/) and that long downward pointing pipe with the restrictor in it is called "water drainage hose" - so that will be its only function and not any cold air inlet as these cars don't seem to have any of that nowadays.

The smallish pipe that points down, I'd think is just a cold air feed, but I never noticed anything that controls when it is used, unlike cars from 2002ish. Why VW Group designed an air filter holder for 2002ish cars with the cover screws underneath, then changed it to just being a rectangular box that had the screws on the top round about 2009ish, then managed to invert it again for this model, sort of beggars belief. This air cleaner box is I seem to remember fastened to the engine by 3-off "pull off" fittings which are as in the case of the 2002ish cars, just rubber donuts that get pushed down onto vertical pillars that have a lip to retain the donuts forced down over them. Some people manage to pull the coils off the plugs using their hands, I played safe and bought an extractor tool that has an expanding screw that is passed down into the hole in the coil where the retaining screw passes through, then you expand the collet in that hole and pull up vertically. The "cam belt needs replacing" issue, this is not what VW AG say is what needs doing, so maybe search around the interweb for further info about that, I'd prefer not give advice on that one.

Yes I thought about that after I wrote that, plugs and air filter after 4 years anyway is what is recommended. NGK plugs and a MANN air filter which is what VW Group boxed items are. Getting the air filter box open, you need to remove the filter box first as all the screw heads are underneath. If you are going to replace the plugs, do it when you have that air pipe off as it makes life slightly easier.

Have you actually removed the air duct from the turbo and throttle body, if so, VW Group advise that the O-rings re never reused, certainly on my wife's 2015 Polo with the 110PS version of that engine, a spot of oil does end up traversing that plastic duct or air tube, but the upper surface of the TB looks okay other than needing a careful de-oiling using some very dry paper tissue - and doing the same to the plastic air pipe, I replaced both O-rings after the end of that pipe showed a gathering of oil mist, but it still comes back - maybe I applied a touch of clean engine oi to these new O-rings to stop them from scuffing when refitting that pipe - and that has had a negative effect on the sealing when under pressure from the turbo. I would expect that the best way to allow the car to "recal" that TB would be to use VCDS etc, but there used to be a general way of thinking that the car will perform that same function either by switching the ignition on and waiting for maybe 2 minutes, or it does that after the engine is stopped - on that engine, there are a few "full sweeps" of something going on after engine switch and that might even include a full sweep of the turbo waste system flap as well.

Oh yes that is where the oil is coming from for sure, but I'm a bit annoyed that it only started showing up on the outside of that plastic duct AFTER I had taken it off to make replacing the spark plugs easier.

One simple but maybe wasteful way to rule out or in, the aerial or its lead or aerial amplifier would be to buy a simple DAB screen aerial and plug it in instead of the car's one. I did this when I retro fitted a DAB radio to a car without DAB, the aerial I bought was from Halfords for easy access to, I did not plug in the 12V supply and just "hung" the aerial over the passenger's seat back, I am not in a good DAB reception area and that worked very well for me to prove this used DAB radio was working and I then got the CP removed and set about buying in a suitable Fakra cable and eventually a used DAB aerial amplifier..

My wife's August 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS is now at 34K miles and always starts smoothly and continues like that while it warms up, same if garaged or not - though it might slightly stutter at initial start up if not been started until later in the day on a hot day when the over night temperature was lower than usual, but nothing to prompt me into trying to sort it out. Has anyone noticed a build up of oil mist ie wetness on the turbo output pipe where it attaches to the top of the TB? I took that pipe off to replace the plugs and just re-used the original O-ring seals, then read on the workshop manual that these seals need replaced after that pipe has been taken off, I had noticed a build up of oil mist at the TB entry point only after having taken that pipe off. So, I ordered in pair of new O-rings and fitted them, slightly oiling them to stop them getting scuffed while pushing the pipe back into place - but the same thing is happening, a know a small quantity of engine oil ends up being passed down this pipe, but that is expected.

The A3/B4 version claims to be 502 and 504 compliant so okay to use as long as you replace the oil and filter once a year or 15K kmts which ever the car reaches first. If leaving the oil in the car for longer then the Edge LL will be more suitable - seeing as you have mentioned using previously.

If the ECU or the Climatronic controller is not getting the correct response from the positional pot - ie feedback, it will always end up "hunting" as it tries to resolve the error in position.

What! Brexit was meant to be brilliant in every way - and yes I believe in the tooth fairy and Santa Clause! I wonder what the effect is when a company like Mytyres etc tended to have an office in UK as well as offices in other markets like France - Germany being home to them, I seemed to remember that their UK address was round about Oxford, but maybe that was only to give confidence to early users when they first set up. I have avoided buy in from mainland Europe a few times since Brexit as I had read about issues and maybe even read the details covering any/all purchases - mainly I've avoided buying that way to stop uncovering "not thought of" issues post Brexit.

Remember if considering buying a steel wheel from mytyres, check the price for supplying that wheel fitted with the tyre of your choice, that could made more sense than buying just the tyre and getting tyres in UK. I've used mytyres maybe 3 times, both for tyres and winter wheels fitted with tyres, no problems at all.

The trouble with going for a full sized 16" steel spare wheel is that it might be difficult to find one within the VW Group parts listing, all 16" wheels that fit the Fabia hub will be alloys I'd think, okay it will be possible to buy one from a proper wheel supplier after checking what rim width and offset is needed to make it the same as the other alloys.

Probably too late for you, but if you are handy with wiring and a multimeter, you could have checked the rear bumper cable, there is a common supply feed and a common supply return to all these sensors, and an output from each of them. So, if the supply or return wire is broken at any point either all or some or one sensor will stop working - ie the supply and return is daisy chained from the controller to the RHS sensor and so on.

I keep both our cars in the garage, and I have been "pampering" them both with a couple of CTEK 5Amp chargers, first charger started to default to a safe low setting of maybe 12.7V when it as well out of warranty, so after messing about with it for a while I gave up and grabbed another new CTEK 5Amp being sold online. From that experience of CTEK chargers, I've come to the conclusion that you should ignore the "you don't need to reselect the same program when next using it" - now I always cycle the program selector through all the options back to the one I want to use as I've had the second CTEK also ending up on a safe but constant output after being on for a while, switched off, then reconnected a day later, I eventually reverted the older CTEK to behave as it should by cycling through the program options. Nowadays, as my own car tends to snooze in the garage, I make a point of checking its "current" voltage and take corrective action is it is lower than it should be when in the final "pulsed top-up stage". I have performed a "recon" charge on my wife's 2015 Polo EFB and that improved it over a long period, possible I'll repeat that once a year and I tend to test my batteries at service time using a CTEK charger to try to avoid getting let down. I've only been let down, or allowed us to be let down once with a car battery, and that maybe 20 years ago with a Ford Fiesta, I started it up on a Saturday morning in winter (wife used it 5 days a week), and thought "that did not sound too good" but conveniently ignored it - she got to and from work on the Monday but the battery was dead after she stopped to shop locally, the AA jumped it and she got home - but that battery was completely dead again, well in terms of being fit enough to turn the engine over - so I learned a lesson that day and wife used my Passat V6 for the rest of that week, which suited her okay!

I am not judging your early intervention as a "cash scattering" event, I think that you have just done what was needed for this car when considering it is used as an essential household tool time was always going to run out for that EFB while you owned that car. I also kind of jumped the gun with my 2011 Audi S4, I've got a new Bosch 019 AGM S5 A13 (95Ah 850A) bought in mid December ready to fit in place of the original VW Group Varta battery - three reasons for buying that, firstly that car is now 10 years and I don't fancy being caught away from and needing to buy a battery of any brand at a distress purchase price to get me going again, and second we have a Costco card and they were running a 15% off (I think) promotion which brought the price down to or below the Tayna price, and thirdly, I had a bad feeling concerning short time what the effect of Brexit would have on the price of Varta/Bosch batteries - so all in all I considered it was buying time despite what annual testing of that battery tells me about its health.

I think that you will either find that Skoda filled in everything okay, or it will be as VW have done over a period in time, and that means the capacity and technology are correct, but the vendor is that good old VW Group default JCB - ie Johnson Controls and the serial number is 111111111111 - which is a bit silly as the BEM label carries all the info including the serial number, regardless if the full BEM codes are not needed on these cars.

That label looks as good as it gets nowadays. I plan to use Varta in the vendor field when reg'ng my new Bosch AGM, Varta produce these batteries, Bosch don't, just a branding on a Varta product for a third party. Edit:- you would be very disappointed if you checked that QR code as it does not offer anything other than what is already on that battery. Another Edit:- as far as serial number is concerned, I'd just change the last number, for be creative and change the last 6 numbers for today's date.

Thanks for that, I've added that one to my iPhone, and will check if it works with the Carista dongle - I'd think it will, the more the better, maybe not!

@FabiaGonzales, just to keep this topic complete and up to date, could you please tell us - or remind us, which scan tool app you used to recode that battery, thanks.

Another "amusing" thing to add into fridge systems used to be Penta(?), if was used in mainly big stationary systems to get rid of waxes formed when fridge systems still used dinosaur oils, now that could waken up anyone doing any repair work that involved a brazing torch, smart fridge guys tagged the system at the fill points so they were sort of protected. What really concerned me was running an area that had lots of big old contactors flashing/crashing away both in the temperature heaters/compressors/fans circuits, but also having big old power amplifiers for air cooled shakers in the same area, a horrible mixture, but as I said I kept the brake on the trend to go green long enough for better/safer F-Gases to become available.

Maybe better and cheaper to find a mobile air con operator.

Look closely at any DIYer refill cans and make sure that it is advertised as being R134A as there are a few about that are not willing to name their product in terms of being an F-Gas. Maybe I'm behind the times, but when I was involved with fridge gases, mobile HVAC systems were not included in much F-Gas restrictions mainly as (a) they will leak and (b) they spread their leaks around so never the owner's fault while not being the repair/regas outlet's problem as long as the system tested as being "good" prior to recharging. Fixed fridge plant had far higher regulations placed on them, I had some systems that used fridge gases/fluid only once, ie equipment being tested was fitted empty, flooded after attached to a test set up then emptied prior to removal, all fridge fluid was logged onto the site by me by weighing all new sealed delivery cylinders, empty delivery cylinders weighed prior to returning to supplier and the same for all recovery cylinders arriving under vacuum and leaving loaded with used fridge fluid - no funny/fancy/lazy accepting cylinder stamped weights and/or quoted delivered weights of fridge fluid/gas, a horrible burden to carry, but needs must At one time it looked to me that on temperature test chamber we were going to end up needing to being greener by moving to butane etc drop in replacements but I managed to keep things going until that danger passed and more suitable but less desirable greener fridge gases appeared - thankfully.

I don't know the relative costs, but Carista does work for 2015 6C Polo although that function/task is not mentioned (I think) - thought maybe Carista have updated their list of what it can do for each model. 2015 6C Polo electronics package should be the same as that for a 2016 Fabia.

Bad wording by your Skoda dealership or at least maybe the service reception person, in these cars the BMS is a sub unit of the CAN-Gateway controller, in some early cars it existed by itself. BCM does all the important controlling of power to areas and users and it also therefore forces certain areas or user to sleep to avoid unnecessary draining of the battery when the car ignition is off car locked or unlocked.

That is a strange thing, though when I've dug deeply into things/facts, I have a couple of CTEK smart chargers and while at least one of them has a dedicated AGM setting/program, when you read the owner's manual fully, this AGM setting is only for "other" types of AGM and not for AGM drop ins as most people tend to be using if changing from EFB to AGM. I still have a nagging feeling that I should get an ex-work mate to bring his 2018 Audi A6 TDI out to me so that I can have another look at the settings, his friendly all makes garage replaced his dying EFB VW Group battery for a Yuasa AGM but did nothing else, so after finding that out, I offered to make any other necessary changes - on his car like my 2011 Audi S4, there is no easy dropdown menu to be looked at that includes battery technology, as I said earlier the car gets that info from the battery's VW Group part number that has been inputted, now I did not think that Audi fitted EFB batteries to TDI cars, especially the bigger cars, but I might be wrong. So the options are that if I look at the channel that has the battery part number listed, I can work out from built up knowledge, if that car was set up at factory for EFB or AGM and alter to an AGM part number if necessary, I did alter the serial number though to alert the BMS that a new battery had been fitted. I do understand while there are "facts" there does seem to be, at least to the enquiring mind, a certain amount of smoke and mirrors - basically to protect the motor trade, most cars on their second battery get "moved on" soon after so nothing really matters to the owner changing the battery, but for the rest of us, why on try to maximise the new battery life if only to do, or try to do what is meant to be done.