rum4mo

You do know that the above link takes everyone that clicks on it, back to this thread?

What you can see from the DVM really depends on how you drive the car, typically I can end up coming to halt at traffic lights after a 10 mile run, and auto stop/start is currently not enabled, I've noticed that if I drive "quietly" this will happen frequently, and if I drive more "aggressively" auto stop/start will always be available at that point in the journey. I've put that down to the car having harvested the stored charge as so it is not in a state to auto stop/start.

Yes, but as my EFB is over 10 years old, unless the journey is more than maybe 20 miles, the "Normal" charging voltage will be closer to the max - which is what it will always be when on the over run. The 2015 6C version of Polo has an earlier version of controller, so the readable data does not look the same as your later car, there is/was a guy on the similar age of Polo to your car on the Polo forum, who tends to post a set of up to date readings regularly - or did. I should grab the current data from that Polo to see if/how it has changed over the past 12 months. I got the feeling that I did manage to "revive" that battery or the charging system by running a battery reg'ng routine using VCDS and changing the serial number - that was a few years ago though. I have an 2011 Audi S4 and when it was 10 years old, I replaced its AGM with a new one, the only reason that I did that was due to that car only being used to travel long distances away from home, so I didn't fancy ending up needing to replace its battery when "away". I was disappointed that I did not see a quick change in data in its battery management controller, but I've not kept a record of any changes/improvements that it has made over the past 4.5 years. Its old AGM battery is kept charged and when tested annually - out of circuit, it shows a very high CCA - which is exactly what you tend to find if testing a new battery out of the car, ie a CCA value of at least 125% of its rated value.

M14 X 1.5 is the version that you want to get. Edit:- sorry that was answered already!

I bought a plastic peg as supplied with some VW Group cars, for adding to all the family VW Group cars that didn't get one in the tool kit, then bought the aluminium version that Audi supply with its biggest/heaviest cars for use in the garage - it was quite cheap to buy from an Audi dealership parts department. I had already bought a plastic one for use in the garage and it is still fit for use.

Yes running/charging voltage characteristics can end up being a bit strange or not what you might have expected, I still have the DVM - cheap plug in type, plugged in permanently in my wife's 2015 Polo, its factory fitted battery is still okay though as should be expected it is dying slowly - having lived 10 years is fine by me, one day it will no longer in fit for that job, hopefully I'll get enough of a warning to avoid a "non start" situation. Auto stop/start still gets enabled quickly if it allow it to.

I ended up fitting a 1/4" drive bit into that screw head and maybe used a couple of screwdrivers to force/wedge it down (against the inside face of the hub) and stay down in the screw head - then used an adjustable spanner tightened as tight as possible, to rotate that 1/4" hex drive bit - that worked. That was on an August 2015 Polo, as said already, these screws are only seized in there by their heads corrosion - once that bond is broken, they are free to move and there will no rust on their threads - by the way, VW Group screws when new have a suitable coating on them to reduce corrosion build up, but like galvanising, that only works for so long especially in that nasty location.

I'm guessing that the "AC operator" is the evaporator - which is where the Fridge system chills the cabin air, that ties in with needing to work behind the dash, or remove it. I'm guessing that is what is wrong with my wife's 2015 VW Polo - but that is just a guess, I really should get it professionally leak/pressure tested instead of thinking the worst!

From checking stored faults before and after main dealership servicing, Audi, SEAT and Volkswagen, I've considered that "diagnostics check included" means if no MIL on then that box gets ticked. "Check for updates" - carried out by service reception person - no customer complaints noted = no point in checking. Admittedly a very down beat take on things, but main dealerships do tend to grind you down quite quickly, which is probably why anyone that can do their own car work does it, and those that can't suck it up - or move to proper garages for getting work done.

I'd think it will come under wear and tear, but how long did you have this car before this started to happen, if soon after buying it, I'd be expecting the seller to sort this out as it indicates a lack of servicing/checking before sale.

Have the brakes ever been serviced/cleaned, if not, that is something that you should get done now. Brake work tends to be "extra work" so can get left out at service time to avoid spending more money I'd think.

Sounds a lot like it could be down to some wrong parts have been fitted to it, even some parts fitted to the wrong side or just 2 of the same part fitted where there should be a RHS and LHS version. I'm sure that the lower arms come in two different lengths to tie in with the longer or shorter road springs. Edit:- so, from where I'm coming from, you really do need to find out what parts you have bought and which side they were fitted to, this shouldn't be happening to someone that works in a garage!

I've always considered that not having a physical ESP button on newer cars is a bit of a backward step, okay normally you don't need to have to use it, but when you do, it helps if you can just press a button instead of searching for it in screen menus as time/momentum has been lost by then.

Good fun extracting pins from connectors, well, if you like doing that sort of thing. I've got a few extractors and also use sharp pins as when necessary. I've got a damaged ABS wheels sensor connector on my 2011 Audi S4, I think that the plastic used on that individual connector has aged badly, I've bought a new connector from an online supplier so will probably take the easy way out with this one as I have plenty access - ie, take my very small vice out to the car and carefully crush the body enough to make it crack, that cunning plan worked for me a few years ago in the same area of another VW car, it was brake pad wear lead that time.

Typically if it is a flap motor issue, you will hear the noise as soon as you switch on the ignition - even before engine start, as long as the cabin fan is running.

Checking the operation of the many flap motors using a scan tool like VCDS should reveal "what is being asked for" is not "what is happening" - and that should confirm if it is a flap motor assembly and which one it is. If it is a flap motor, what it is doing is "hunting" or has broken a bracket so the motor teeth are slipping over the flap mechanism teeth. Hunting happens when the system's positional feedback for a flap motor has become intermittent so when the system demands a position change, the motor responds but the system is not receiving good confirmation of the flap now being at that new position - so it changes the voltage drive to the flap motor and maybe it now has moved past the required position due to something like contamination on the positional feedback track or its wiper, and a correction drive voltage is sent out - repeat repeat repeat etc, so that flap motor and flap end up moving back and forwards repeatedly, hence the clonking.

Or what @Crasher suggested earlier.

I know where the dongle that the VW dealer's workshop left in my wife's 2015 Polo went after we collected that car after its first service - at least I think that I know where it is - and it isn't in the car, nor did I take up the AA's offer of a similar dongle. Edit:- just to make it clear, that VW workshop just left the box etc on the passenger seat, so they didn't feel the need to force it on us, just supply it as probably requested by VW.

Sounds like sloppy design - but who would expect any better from insurance companies as they are just looking after their own interests.

Good stuff, yes I know that doing this to your car costs quite a bit, but if like me you felt the need to add that to a car, then why not, I did this to my slightly used 2011 Audi S4, I didn't think much about wanting/needing front OPS - that was until I bought my wife a new Polo SEL and it had front and rear PDC, so I just had to have that on my car. Ten years on, everything still working as intended, the only weakness for my car's version of PDC is that if I drive, for instance, into a parking slot with a wall/fence ahead of me, I can't expect the front sensors to "arm" - I need to remember to use the "parking switch" - luckily I discovered that before stupidly hitting anything. From car starting when parked in a confined space they will "arm" but not when just driving from an open/clear area into a confined space, also once "armed" for instance carrying out a multi point turn around, they will remain "armed" until the car ground speed exceeds a certain limit. I've put that down to my 2011 Audi S4 having an earlier version of this sort of system.

The later cars tend to use 2Q0 819 422 or 2Q0 819 422 A, which is a much less substantial bit of plastic and does not use the sliding locking elements.

The pollen filter cover type/design has changed on some of these VAG cars, so used ones appear for around £40 - which is a bit of a joke, no longer a substantial thick plastic cover with 2 sliding clips. Very tricky to remove your first one, but I made a note of “how it’s done” and that worked this time.

My younger daughter’s 2019 Arona with the 115PS version of that engine, at some time of it’s life, ended up with the turbo inlet pipe (manifold) getting disassembled and so there was an air gap at that point! It could have been her local VAG Indie as they did record that they had checked the air filter element at its 2024 service. I checked the air filter last week and was pleased to see that the replacement turbo inlet pipe was still in one piece - they had replaced the air filter at its 2025 service. The cover for the pollen filter had a hole in it, ie a chunk of plastic missing, I applied strong fabric reinforced tape to both sides of it to seal it up. I’m not placing any blame on that garage for doing that as the plastic used is shocking for that application, but in both cases, surely the fitter/mechanic knew that they had broken something and just left it. Accidents/breakages can happen but an honest worker should surely report it and/or fix it either at the garage’s cost or the customer’s cost.

Probably just needs you to remove the top cam belt cover, and have a look inside and turn the engine over at least a complete revolution, also have a look to make sure that there are no signs of oil escaping from the variable timing cam sprockets.

I'm sure that I have added a couple of sellers of them to my eBay "watch" list for when I'll need to buy one or two!