fr1nklyn

In theory, if you are currently driving 60 miles with DPF full with ash in 70%, you should do 180-200 miles if it's new or cleaned. Of course, cleaned DPFs are never perfectly clean and ash-free, but at least reseting its ash levels should be a starting point.

Shouldn't they reset the DPF when it was cleaned?

125kph is less than 2k rpm on 7th gear, that’s not aggressive at all 😕 And your journeys should be perfect for a diesel, with mostly passive regens, no oil dilusion, etc. Hopefully the shop will find something like a defect turbo seal or whatever. I guess that you haven’t changed your oil yet, let see how the things will go after you oil service. I do assume that VW add one grade thinner oil in the factory to complete the break in process(like 0w20 instead of 0w30), but this is just a theory.

I'm with the same engine and I had to top up half liter in the first 1000km. Then till 10k, checked yesterday, I haven't topped up anymore. The dipstick is somewhere between min and max, a bit more to the max. My local dealer told me to expect some oil consumption between 0,5 and 1,5l for 10k kms when I bought the car. My manual says "up to 0,5 l/1000 km" which is 2,5l per 5k and 5L per 10k.. I know it's crazy hopefully you don't reach that level. Would your dealer allow an oil change with oil you brought to them if it meets the required standard for this engine(504/507.00)? If yes why don't you try a different oil with lower evaporation loss(aka NOACK) like Ravenol VSW? Here is one test which ATO24 de done back in time https://ato24.de/en/blog/comparison-0w-30-engine-oils/#:~:text=NOACK at 250-,degrees,-Evaporation according to BTW is it like that from the beginning with the factory oil or it started to happen after few services?

You don't want to do it, trust me. My Superb has it and I don't use it on long trips because my iPhone heats up so much that it automatically turns off. It's ok for short trips, but for longer ones, you have to use a cable.

One off-topic hint/suggestion: Grind/clear the number on the lock barrel with a dremel or sand paper(you can keep the one on your key since it stays in your pocket and it's not visible). This number matches a key for easier purchasing if lost or stolen. But the thieves have all of them and that really makes their jobs easy. It won't stop them, but it will slow them down... This is the number I'm, talking about

Did you reset your DPF values? 8% ash for 160k km is pretty unrealistic unless there has been any intervention. I sold my stock O3 with 184ps TDI on similar mileage and it had DPF ash level ~60%. If yours has been reset but not cleaned that maybe messed up the soot level measurement and therefore trigger the regeneration earlier. I'm sure you know this, but just in case I'll mention that the soot capacity is reduced with ash level accumulation. When I bought my O3 it used to do regenerations every 300-400km, when I sold it on 160k km it was regenerating around 200 km. My brand new Superb 200hp also regenerates on 200 km . So the new software triggers regenerations more often than it used to.

@Danoid It's about 2 years old. My O3 pre-FL was serviced and had MOT in 2022 and then in Dec 2023 it entered for another MOT done by the same Skoda dealer, but this time they replaced the whole steering wheel because of a potentially faulty airbag. The car's warranty has expired long ago but I guess that security features are still covered for longer.

Did you retrofit them or your car come from the factory with them? I'm wondering should I add them to the Scout

At least I know that G052910M4 is the most recent one.

Hello Fellas, Can someone share the difference between both AdBlues which VW/Skoda dealers sell - G052910A4 and G052910M4? They both are in 10L bottles and meet the ISO 22241-1 standard as required. Dealers say they are the same, but if that's true why there are two different part numbers? Thanks!

It’s fine for three adults in the back or even two and a single child seat. But definitely not very comfortable for a single adult between two child seats - they just take too much space(both of them Group 2/3). This is my personal experience

Sure, no worries at all! Take someone with you for help and maybe print the guide on a paper. Definitely do some pictures if possible and tell us how it went It looks like a whole day job for me, as someone who hasn't done it before.

I haven't changed the front shocks myself, but I would definetely think of it once the warranty expires The stock suspension is very bouncy(I don't have DCC). Do you have a spring press? Make sure you have all the tools before dissembling mate What are you going to put? Bilstein B6 or some regular brand/model due to leak?

Hi there, There many different torque settings on this car. Front shocks are tough job and I suggest you to download the workshop manual and follow it - it also contains the exact torque settings and the required tools. You can download it from https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do which costs like 8 euro for 1 hour. That's enough time to download whatever you need for the job. Good luck!

I did exactly as @RoddersUK but had driven the car till it reached working temp in order to open all the coolant circuits. I also wore gloves and long jacket to protect myself from burning, just in case. And last but not least, I think I also had the HVAC set to max heat inside the cabin during the procedure. I think I used 10L of “ready to use” G12Evo coolant and had 1L spare to top up in the next few days if needed.

These look like Aston Martin Vantage 19” wheels https://www.astonstore.co.uk/product/set-of-4-19-inch-liquid-silver-wheels-for-aston-martinb-v12-vantage/

It really depends how old the engine is and on what maintenance plan was it. Extended oil change intervals with combination of a lot city driving causing many DPF regens and oil dilution.

+1 for Yuasa. I would pick whatever has the longest warranty.

I had the same issue on my MK3 Pre-FL and if I recall correctly there was a newer seal version which costed a lot. So Just made few more bigger holes at the bottom part the seal and cleaned the factory ones. Never had such issues after that. I have to mention also that my rear doors are often opened by the kids.

No one can tell you for sure. But if it’s not burning oil and you like the car, drive it and continue to maintain it well.

Ahh sorry you’re right. There is a forum thread about DQ200 issues for UDS protocol, check this post which describes how to reset the basic settings https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/18874/#post-166806

@Gammyleg I haven’t done adaptation on DQ200. Try to follow the instructions on Ross-Tech site http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/7-Speed_Direct_Shift_Gearbox_(DSG/0AM)

A bit of her, just before some winter adventures 😋

Hey guys, another option is to use 3-seat bench. I have a friend with M3 and his 3 kids fit inside perfectly. It looks safer for me than using the upper tether point. It looks quite neat as well