fr1nklyn

I'm not that brave and skilled, otherwise I would do it myself. Also AFAIK, changing the diff bearings requires some adjustment to specific gaps' requirements. I think the local garage which removed and placed back the diff made a mistake somewhere, and I'll send the car back to them. Unfortunately that will happen after 2 weeks, because I have to travel today. I don't trust the car and will travel with my wife's Hyundai..

I think yes, but it's intermittent and initially I was focused to notice any noises like the one from the diff bearing which was changed. I think they had dropped the whole rear cradle because the suspension alignment required a lot of adjustment. And I'm sure the rear had almost perfect alignment because I checked it with the front less than an year ago when front bushings were changed. I'm not sure I can check that inner joints are tight? 😅 My DIY skills are on a level to change the oil, pads and rotors I'm pretty sure there is fresh oil in both otherwise none should be inside and horrible noises will be noticed? The shipping company required oils to be removed from the diff before sending it to the Diff Rebuild Workshop. Then the same was send back to the local garage with no oils once a tapered roller bearing was changed - AFAIK same as in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRV3e54nKZg because I had send it to them before the rebuild and once the rebuild was done, they confirmed the same bearing was worn out on my car. The differential noise which sounded similar to bad wheel bearing but louder has gone after the rebuild. So I suspect that something hasn't been fitted properly because I hear metal noises from time to time over bumps. Like something is loose.. Also when I cornering on uneven roads, the car is moved to the left and right similar to the experience when shocks absorbers are shots. I think this experience got worse after the alignment, which is strange.. I was inside the case during the alignment and was looking at the screen showing the measurements before and after the suspension alignment, and I'm pretty sure I left the shop with all four wheels/sides in green.

Btw it says that DSR is part of the ESP feature, so maybe if I disable the ESP it will also disable the DSR? I thought that my shocks/springs may need replacement as I’m still driving with the factory ones on 95k miles. But I would notice this before the repair.. I will get out to drive it again. 😔

It says “rear rubber shaft coupling” on the bill and it’s €265.. I didn’t know about this option, thanks. I will check it out.

I did MOT(was expired till the car was in the garage) and also alignment on a Hutson machine. Both sides on the rear were unaligned as expected. Something isn't right unfortunately.. 😞 Intermittently car feels unstable and shakes too much inside while cornering on uneven roads. I've been moved to the left and right couple of times like I'm in a boat.. It happened 2-3 times while driving. The suspension hasn't been stiffer before I left it for repair, but I feel it much more unstable now.. Or I have driven my wife's Hyundai i30 too much in the last couple of weeks 🙃 I'm now unsure should I take a trip with the car or not.. 😞 It can't be checked during the weekend.

Yes, I think it's called drive shaft coupling. And in the diff only that roller bearing I wrote about earlier.

Hey guys an update from my side, I picked my car after the diff bearing was changed, new diff and haldex oils, new drive shaft coupling as well and the noise is gone! 🥳 That coupling made the bill a bit more than I expected but I know from the forum that it’s a common think to fail on these cars. I need to do an alignment and then I will do some more miles and step it hard, but so far there is no noise till 90kmph. Before the rebuild, the noise was appearing after 30-40kmph. I want to do alignment before driving it with 130-150. The only think I’m a bit concerned is a low noise intermittently when I go over bumps, but could be in my head.. I don’t trust the car yet and drove from the local garage with windows closed and no music in order to listen for anything wrong.. 🤣

@J.R. @Username_Login Sorry guys - you're absolutely right - I mixed them: Haldex 0,9L and Diff 1,1L. Where Haldex requires topping up after priming the pump

I've just checked that diff takes 0.9L of 75w90 oil, so it should be enough. Did you try to add more Haldex oil after running the car for 1-2 minutes or priming the pump? If not I would try to do it because as I said, it usually takes additional 100-150ml. Did the noise appear after you changed the oils or later on? You said that 2 months later you realized that maybe you didn't fill the right amount of oils? If the noise appeared after some time, there could be a leak or the oil may not be appropriate. I would highly recommend you to use OEM oils for the diff and haldex modules. There might be others, but the only alternative Haldex oil I know which is good is the Ravenol AWD-H, but it's not VW approved, only recommended... So if you're not sure, stick with the OEMs.

Hi @Username_Login, please start a new thread as it seems as a different issue. You fill the haldex till some oil starts to drip, put the fill plug and start the engine for 1-2 minutes to prime the pump. Then you remove the plug and add 100-150ml until again oil starts to drip(you can prime the pump with VCDS as well). By gear oil you mean diff oil I guess? Diff requires 1-1.1 liters of oil. Again needs to be filled until oil starts to drip. it’s strange that it happens after 15 mins of drive and not before that. Oil “expands” a little when it reaches operating temp, but it’s really unnoticeable with these amounts.. Maybe you confused the haldex and diff fill holes because they are next to each other. Not sure..

@captain uncertain I haven't taken my car from the local garage yet, but hopefully the diff rebuild is successful 🤞 I'll provide an update when I take the car. I do have 1000km trip next week, so I'm still unsure should I travel with the car if I take it 3-4 days before or not.. It's also due for an engine and transmission oil change, but I don't have time for that before the trip 😕 I'm keen to try the Amsoil DCT in the DQ250 instead of the OEM trans oil - those 150 euro are waiting on the shelf in my basement

I would do the same if there was a rebuild kit with all the bearings and stuff like on the Mk2. But in my case there is no such kit for Mk3 and I had to wait for long time for some of the bearings to be shipped( not something I like in the summer months). The bearing they changed was available in the workshop. They said it’s also used on many diffs on BMWs and is prone to failure there as well.

They call it tapered roller bearing, exactly the one shown in this video with P/N LM 503349/QCL7C: and in this post in a Russian forum as well: https://www.drive2.ru/l/620840890964932544/?page=0#comments There also other forums mentioning same bearing issues on VW Golf R and Audi A3. This fault isn’t rare..

Only the roller bearing was changed, the rest were looking like new.

I believe some members here chose Febi and Swag. Btw I sent my differential for rebuild. It was that roller bearing as I had thought at the beginning. The workshop took me €150 for rebuilding it, hopefully the gaps requirements are met and no noises will be observed when the local garage fits it back on the car next week. Most likely I will need to pay local garage €300 for removing and fitting back the diff. Plus €90 for haldex and diff oils. 🥹 And around €50 for shipping costs as the workshop which changed the bearing is 500kms from my city.. So I think the final price will be around €600-700, hopefully 🙄

Sorry to tell you but these CUPA engines are known to have high oil consumption when long oil change intervals are used, and not only.. The DPF is most likely full and tries to regenerate all the time because of the high fuel and oil consumption. There are plenty of forum threads here like this one

I don't fancy those third party devices, honestly speaking. Built-in hardware/module errors are handled for sure, so either removing the S/S cable from battery or setting the battery voltage limit below 12V via VCDS, should be less harmful(if harmful at all) to the car. Whereas errors triggered by a third party devices aren't handled for sure and therefore hide unknown surprises (talking as a test engineer in similar field)

Yeah, I agree with you. It would be much easier if the button state was remembered for a driving mod and also when car is restarted.

200 km regeneration is normal interval for EA288 EU6 engines in city or more spirited mixed driving. And 400+ for highway. There are others like you who have cleaned their DPF, reset the ash level to 0 and still observe similar regen intervals. Maybe only a remap can extend these periods, but the question is does it worth it since everything is fine on the car. Just drive and ignore it

I’m feeling exactly the same.. Not to mention the feeling when I want to join quickly in the roundabout and car shuts the engine just before I want to make it really quick.. Not to mention what stress it makes on the Flywheel when it starts and stops the engine 20 times while being in a traffic jam. @EnterNameYou don’t need to by one of those shady switches.. just unplug it from the battery 😃 https://youtu.be/DafjVxuTjFk (there are no errors on the dash or anything - car just mentions for a second that S/S system is deactivated on when you start the car)

Just turn it off (the S/S) To your questions - ECU monitors the battery, oil, coolant temperature, DPF regeneration status and so on, and if anything doesn't meet the requirements - it does deactivate the S/S. E.g. if DPF is regenerating or the battery is low, start-stop system will be automatically deactivated. So no worries - nowadays, the cars are smarter than us..

Ravenol VMP is pretty good oil - I also prefer it. It remains stable for long time and has high evaporation point. Unfortunately it became a little expensive in the last couple of years... 😕 I change it every 10-12k km/6-7k miles, but if you don't do so much start/stop traffic trips like I do, I believe it will even be good for 10k miles.

I don’t know but you can hope for it, having in mind the DPF reaches 600-700 C during a regen. Keep in mind that regens always produce some slight burning smell, so don’t expect that to disappear completely.

I did this twice for my 15 years experience with the diesel engines. Hopefully not, but… Just have it in mind

Hey mate, wait a second, why do you try to drive with “hand brake is not fully disengaged”? Do you know what break pads brand was used by the mechanic - maybe the invoice could include it? There is usually rattling when some aftermarket brands are used on these cars, but not squeaking. It happens because some aftermarket pads are slightly smaller then the OEM ones. How many km have you driven since the pads change? Maybe they need to bed in a little more. A usually put a little copper grease on the “ears” of the pads and if there is rubber back sticker on the pad, I add some grease there as well(on the contacting points). This usually prevents squeaking. I see that you had changed the rear discs as well, try to bed them in on a safety place: Try to slow down from 30kmh to 10, then 50 to 10 and them 80 to 10. Something Ike that, without fully stopping in order to let the pads cool down. Repeat this several time. You may want to check for exact “break pads/rotors break in procedure”.