fr1nklyn

Following the tread, I would also buy some stickers if available

I had sticking turbo on my 1.9 Pump-Duse TDI Audi A4 in the past and cured it with Archoil DPF and turbo cleaner, and then blocked the EGR. Not very eco-friendly solution.. Something I wouldn't do now. My car used to enter in limb mode once in a while so I added it and drove hardly above 2500-3000rpm until the tank was almost empty. Then blocked the EGR(and EGR cooler I think?) and after that I started to use Archoil's and Miller's diesel fuel additive. BTW I still use the Archoil's fuel additive every tank as the Miller's is hardly available after Brexit. Maybe it\s not helping much, but at least makes the engine quieter with less vibrations according to the cheap Skoda interior . Also it's much cheaper than the Premium Diesel.. I used to add 2T ashless oil in my pre-PD TDI engine some years ago and the result was the same.. But I don't have balls to add it in a CR TDI

@Penpusher Mudflaps are actually a great idea! I'll try to find a installation guide and most likely retrofit those on the Scout as well. Aren't they noisy, or being that low on the car and behind the tires doesn't make any difference?

Yes, that's normal ICE oil consumption. I'm talking about much worse oil consumption on some of these CUPA engines. You just decrease the chance to have such issue by avoiding this engine code, IMO.

Hey Guys, I'm thinking about replacing my O3 Pre-FL Scout with Superb FL Scout. The dealer gave me a good loan offer for it due to the clearance of Superb 3 model(Superb 4 is coming). My O3 is perfect on 100k miles(160k km) and I'm sure I'll be very happy with the Superb as well. I wanted 280TSI engine but there wasn't such option as only 3 Superbs were left for ordering.. So will continue the TDI saga (200TDI). I've never dealt with AdBlue, but looking in YT, it's not that hard to refill it without dealer's help. Should I use the OEM AdBlue or it doesn't really matter? It will also have Virtual Cockpit, ACC, alcantara seats, Virtual pedal and some others I don't count as important I already have few accessories on my wishlist * Front and rear rubber mats * Rubber boot mat * Phone/Tablet holders for backseats, for the kids * Anything else? Most likely I'll pick it in January, so I'll need winter tires. I was thinking about all-season tires, but assuming I'll go on skiing, better having a set of winter rims and tires as well. So yeah, count it as introduction of myself

1L per 15k km is absolutely fine and normal. Nothing to worry about. Some CUPA owners claim 1L per 2000km.. 😕

Yes, this won’t guarantee you a perfect used car, but will definitely decrease the risk of major issues. What’s your engine code and service history?

You can find some complains in the following two threads, and this is just example..

You can always use - faucet handle as shown on the picture 😃 Or buy only the leather side covers and top one from Aliexpress https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKOoWYi

Hey, I’m driving a Scout which uses the same engine used in the diesel VRS. It’s pretty reliable unless bad maintained with long service intervals and/or incorrect oil used. Not sure does your 59’ plate have a DPF, but those EA288 ones in MK3 usually regen every 120-200 miles city driving and 300-400 highway. Depending on how the car is driven, the DPF may need cleaning/replacement if the car is on more than 100-150k miles. Avoid first 184 TDIs with engine code CUPA as they tend to burn some oil if the car has been on extended service intervals. Mine is CUNA on 100k miles and is great so far(knock on wood). I use some Archoil fuel conditioner every now and then, but not sure is it necessary at all. Some folks here say that a tank of premium diesel every 3-4 tanks of regular one is enough to keep the injectors and fuel system clean.

VRS has more bells and whistles, plus lower suspension, two nice looking exhausts where one of them is fake.. but still looks better than standard trim and even L&K. If I were you I would pick 2.0 TDI due to the better gearbox reputation and I would also avoid those with engine code CUPA which often burn oil due to poorly engineered oil rings and extended service intervals. Look for one with known service history, preferably “fixed”. DSG need to be serviced every 40k, if it’s 4x4, haldex needs servicing every 30k or 3 years. plus if the vehicle has done more than 120k, think about DPF cleaning or replacement in the near future.

Sure! The shop which removed the diff is the VAG service center Elbatron https://forum.vwclub.bg/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=44549&start=180 They don’t repair diffs and transmissions, so I sent it to this workshop in Burgas which mainly work on BMWs https://www.bmw-shper.com (I couldn’t find someone is Sofia who has tools to measure the bearing gaps, etc) Most likely you won’t need, but just in case the guy who soldered my AWD module is https://avto-elektronchik.bg/contacts.html I highly recommend you to change also the rear driveshaft coupling if it hasn’t been changed already. I don’t have P/N on the invoice but I think it’s 5Q0521307. Ask or PM me directly if you have any questions. Good luck!

I feel your pain Dooge! My commute is 3-4 km in one direction in week days with a diesel and longer journeys in weekends. Front grill covers were usually used for diesel cars in colder countries in the past, or hand made ones made from cardboard 😂 Something similar to this one should do the job better than under bonnet insulation https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/octavia-iii/octavia-iii-winter-grille-cover-in-great-oem-design-ki-r-glossy-black

+1 for the Hankook Ventus Prime 3 - I was very pleased with them. Now driving Goodyear Efficientgrip Performance 2 and I regret.. I plan to buy Hankook Kinergy 4S2 for my wife’s car which is driven mainly in the city where we rarely have snowy roads.

If the noise isn't regular, it's not a wheel bearing.

Hi @krisman1993, it’s hard to hear the sound on this video. Maybe if you can record the transition from not having the noise to when it starts to be heard, that would help. Did the noise started after tires swap or any repair? Or maybe after some light offroad trip? Has the noise increased over time? A common fault on the MQB platform are the wheel bearings, but could be anything else, from engine undercover if it’s been hit and loose, to tires, even the DSG transmission which is unlikely on this mileage and so on. If it’s a worn wheel bearing the noise from it usually stops or gets louder on left or right turn, depending on which side the issue is.

Thanks @Carlston! O2 Scout springs are really cheaper than O3 Scout ones, and there is more choice. In autodoc, almost all O3 results for 5Q0511115AN show springs with diameter 118mm, where O2 results for 1K0511115CT show springs with 120mm diameter. Do you think this may be an issue? Can you help me with the choice for the front springs as well?

I've done some research on the higher and stiffer shock absorbers and coil springs which Skoda offers on Scout models and found their aftermarket analogues: * Front Shocks: Bilstein B4 #22-274182 * Front Springs: ??? * Rear Shocks: Bilstein B4 #19-274195 * Rear Springs: SACHS 992 103 (analogue of OEM #5Q0511115AM) My queries are: 1/ What are the higher and stiffer front springs OEM numbers? 2/ Are there good aftermarket alternatives for the same? 3/ Is there better rear spring alternative of SACHS 992 103? 4/ It seems that these Bilstein B4s are the same for regular and Scout versions, so I'm keen to know how they are behaving compared to the stock ones? (Scout's +30mm height comes from 15mm higher springs and 15mm higher tires) 5/ Many VW Golf Alltrack owners in US are lowering their cars with Golf R suspension(not what I want) and are swapping the upper OEM rear spring pads with the ones from Audi TT because they seem to be thicker. Have someone tried them on their car? My car reached 100k miles with the factory suspension and is softer, bouncing and sagging. I'm looking to replace it in the near future. Thanks a lot in advance! 🙏

That was my theory as well. But then why the aligner didn’t tightened them?! Really can’t tell.. I have to do alignment once again as advised by the garage which fitted the diff and its module, but the car tracks straight now and have no issues so far, so I want to enjoy the moment 😂

Last update from my side, hopefully I got my car back, no more noises from the diff or suspension, and no ESP lights on the dash anymore. Recap: * The tapered roller bearing in the diff was worn out. The rest of the bearings had no signs of wear. * I believe that each bearing in the diff has its part number, so if somebody else is in this situation, remove it first and check your P/N. Mine was LM503349. * The AWD module( 0CQ 907 554 H ) had issues with its sealing which caused water to enter inside partially damage it. Thankfully was repaired by electronics workshop and sealed back with new durable silicon. * While the shop was soldering my module, I called the local Skoda dealer for the price of a new one and they said it's superseded by new version with OEM number 0CQ 907 554 J. (I won't share the price they gave me, because it's not correct, you can google the part number and see the prices around you) * During the initial alignment, 6 of the alignment bolts in rear were left loose.. which means all of them(not sure how this could happen). This caused metal suspension noises. * All the bolts are tight now, diff and its control module are on the car and everything seems to be fine now - no noises or errors from the AWD module in VCDS.

@captain uncertainSounds great. I also had to change the rear coupling(original one on 100k miles was knackered).

Ok, I called the skoda dealer today, 0CQ 907 554 H is superseded by 0CQ 907 554 J and is ~€550. Mine is already sent for repair but if the guys who are about to do it said it’s not possible, I will buy one. That price isn’t that bad for a brand new module. Hopefully I will understand soon what’s the case with the suspension noise

Thanks @toot, yes I have even done an extra mile with maintenance of the car - much more often than needed( as cheaper preventive action 😞 * Changed the diff oil on 100k km(60k miles) * Haldex oil on every 50k km(30k or 2-3 years) together with the DSG oil(wet clutch DQ250) * I even clean the pump, its filter and housing when doing the haldex oil + changed the 2x oil rings and 2x bolts of the pump which are sold as a service kit But the AWD control module itself is not serviceable - it’s a simple metal box with a chip inside, which if not sealed properly from the factory, does such issues.. 😕 There is a place in my city Sofia where some guys repair ABS modules. They said to send my AWD module to them to check can it be repaired or not. 0CQ 907 554 H is my module P/N. And I found that it’s superseded by newer version 0CQ 907 554 J. If someone has access to such data and can confirm this, would be really great 🙏

Yes, I was sleeping I guess.. The AWD module, not ABS.. the one with p/n 0CQ 907 554 H I was wondering why no similar issues appeared in google when I searched for it

Yes, it should be fine