Danoid

If it’s a good way to save money if you can’t use your credit card 😁

Both sides are the same :( they didn’t even consider a little hatch in the liners either grrr

I’ve got a 2016 2.0 diesel 190ps For my 6speed dsg it’s a service every 40k miles (don’t think there’s a time interval) Camber is now every 100 or 120k miles with no time interval, whether the pump can last that long though, who knows As for things to look out for, only thing I can think of is usual bumps and creaks, mines still on original suspension components but it’s only done 50k miles Some people reporting their suspension components failing much earlier

I’m going to order a spare soon, if you find it, on top should have a letter inscribed and then google around for that (think eBay’s a good place) Kind renders them pointless as you can buy spares, someone who wants your wheels and knows it’s genuine can just carry around the spares and job done but tbh don’t think I allot theft is a thing now as all cars have them, not like years ago when they were rare eBay UKSkoda Locking Wheel Nut Master Security Key Match Service...Skoda Locking Wheel Nut Key Match Service.

Need to get it scanned to figure out what is happening

Next best thing is to scan it as it should be logging a code

Just to confirm, have you turned “auto” off? As you rarely get air from the centers when that’s on

Replaced my coolant tank with a new one and topped up with G12evo Thought I’d remove the old silicone bag to see the condition and the bag itself looks perfect from a 2015 coolant tank

You can buy direct from your local dealer I need to top up some bits on mine, but don’t think I’d be good at it and might look worse

Got a link to those?

Nothing wrong with what you’ve got apart from the nightmare of cleaning them I suspect? I’ve got the top ones and bit of a pain

That’s my original on a 2016 and the part I replaced it with

Yeah that’s the battery indicator on your mobile, charge it up

Yeah normal colour and smell

I had a fairly good look this morning in the engine bay and looks normal but I suppose if it’s leaking somewhere such a tiny amount I wouldn’t see it I’m going to order a new expansion tank as mines the silicone bag still, then top up with G13 Then later on when I get the timing belt done most of it will come out with the water pump removal, but might get a flush to be sure

Noticed my coolant getting bit low (near low mark now) I did too it up to near max on the header tank about a year ago, not in oil or no oil in header tank, not low enough for warning and no overheating I’m guessing an incredibly slow leak somewhere, any places to look? Think I’ve read on here other people had similar issues and usually it’s the water pump, but is it possible to visually see or just a case of shining a torch and see if anything looks wet? Mine is a 2016 with 50k miles, still on original belt and pump, I believe early water pumps like mine are known to leak/crap, sound right? I’ll be changing timing belt and water pump at some point this year but might speed me up if it’s water pump issue Thanks

The first and second is normal dipped, but first is on my drive which is odd camber Here’s a rough comparison Xenon Original Xenarc Xenon Osram NBL +200 LED For the E marking it looks like it’s only for interference but tbh it all gets a bit confusing, for MOT wise it’ll be fine due to a bit of a loop hole No dazzling at all and not stupidly bright, does go a little further which is what I wanted and better light colour for my eyes Driving next to other cars with legit LEDs there’s is still brighter and higher Note these are just taking from an iPhone, no matched settings or anything so not true reflection of real life

These are e marked but digging into its wrong e marked, but I’d act dumb should anything happen. I did manually raise them one full turn yesterday and better, not dazzling anyone so that’s good but will get it checked properly. They arnt crazy lumens like is one l’ve seen There is a dark patch but looks worse in pictures then real life

if it’s still on the original battery then it’s time to change You’ve already got vcds so you can “code” the new battery in Years ago I had an old Passat B5.5 an alarm would trigger on that and VCDS had a log to see what caused it, as yours is empty it’s likely the battery

Fitted D3S LED headlights, legality is questionable but going for a drive later and hopefully all good with no possibility of dazzling people Don’t think it will as they are annoyingly low but not the broken low as the light dance happens and both raises Belts and braces I might go to a garage and get alignment checked and see if they can be upped a little if needed

Same cable?

Oh will keep an eye, tbh I rarely use DAB.

Hmm so the jam has gone, is it behaving better now or still same issue? Wonder if you need to set the temps low then gradually high a few times to make sure all is good If not then your motor could be failing This is on a gold but going to be similar ish https://youtu.be/N9efnNxtntA At the end of the video he’s turning it hot and cold, check yours is behaving the same too Check the comments on that video from someone called tommot22, he fixed his issue another way but don’t understand it 🤪

First point is always if that doesn’t work, take out the pollen filter and make sure that’s all good and look inside to make sure there’s not a random bit of crap somewhere

If I’m in no massive rush I always get from AUTODOC tbh, but they can be funky with prices At the moment I’ve got two ATE front discs and ATE ceramic pads in my basket, was £159 the other day now £209 But I’m going to use the daily bonus to see how much discount I can get