ApertureS

Do you have a copy of your 08 HVAC coding by any chance? @john999boy For some reason my heated steering wheel layout is different to yours and cant for the life of me see why

Well ****… £67 for a pollen filter change! Ive been undercharging clearly when I only charge costs for the filter (cheap to expensive £8-20) It is literally a 30 second job!!!! £144 for spark plugs??? Now I get that an expensive set of plugs may be £15 each so £60. With the other £80 you could buy all the tools and still have change left over!

Pop the front radar cover off (2 small caps above and poke a screwdriver down both) and check the radar is secure and the bracket isn’t broken in any way. After that you’ll need to fault scan it to go any further sorry

A little taster....

If you send your vin i can check, swapping the shark fin involves dropping the back of the headliner, I can do these in about 3 hours but ive done a fair few

A little spoiler....

It may be called standardisation or norming or just basic setting, it will automatically move the seat so dont be sitting in it at the time!

The software update is based on user complaint - not just as part of a service or any other work. I can see from your software number it’s not been done, but certain versions needed a replacement model as they were too old for the update, yours may or may not be in that TPI

Nope, shark fins came in different tech levels, nothing, gps, gps+gsm and some others if you want a gps one, I’ve actually just put one up for sale, £20 posted in the U.K.

A full basic setting is needed of the seat, this can be done with vcds, you then need to ‘norm’ each movement by moving it to its extreme limits. After this memory functions will work again, memory functions will not work if there are any basic setting faults. (also the module is massively out of date and there is an updated software relating to this fault)

If you think you have a boost fault, focusing on the maximum numbers wont really help sorry. You first need to make sure there are no boost leaks followed by comparing requested and actual boost levels through live data.

Kessy is one of the first things to turn off followed by ambient lighting to conserve power. I also have the handbrake get stuck on solid sometimes when I leave my car for a week at a time! Id prefer not to leave it resting on the parking lock so yet to come up with a solution

1 month... I wouldnt even be driving it a few days, you are genuinely asking for a much much higher bill. Most garages arent going to strip apart individual looms to find the wires with ingress as it would take a silly amount of hours. I dont mean to scare you but youve been made aware of the risks of pressurised oil heading up the wires to all parts of the engine bay harness and I just looked up the cost of a bay harness which is almost £4000 and another half of that for the labour of changing it. After that, its your choice what you decide to do from now on as I can only tell you the worst case scenario.

If it was a factory option, i see no reason it couldnt be done. The only issues will be because the car is on the newest platform with a lot more back door and modification protection - it would make the entire job harder just from a software point of view

There is no public or dealer database to get these details. If you give me your vin number ill find you the correct part number and also the build date of the car.

I havent seen anyone else do it except me to be honest, there may be others. The work involved is massive and parts alone are over £1800, without any of the custom wiring, coding, labour or anything else.

Im a bit confused, why do you need more than one key? Last i checked you took proof of ownership to a dealer and they activate it? (on a side note, you really should have more than 1 key for emergencies.)

Are you sure its the fuel level warning and not this, as stated in the manual under high voltage charging

Welcome to the forum This is the superb section, your post will need to be in the fabia section - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/298-skoda-fabia-mk-iii-2014-2021/ Regarding radio codes, are you sure it needs a physical code and not a component protection removal. If the physical code is required, youll need to provide the serial and part number for anyone to be able to assist.

Based on your engine cover you have an EA888 gen 4 engine, chances are the intake pipe you purchased is for a gen 3 engine and id assume it is different to your gen 4 engine. The Gen 3 has a spur on the top side of the plastic elbow that goes into the turbo, this looks specific to the gen4, possibly a SAI system or a breather for the engine would be my guess.

Both can work, Depending on access. For the 180 degrees I would personally do this: Tighten first to 200Nm, mark bolt and a reference point with paint pen, tighten the angle as much as i can in the air, fit wheel without centre cap and lower to floor, finish the remainder till both paint marks are furthest from eachother, ie. 180 degrees apart. When i dont have great access for a bar then ill use an impact gun to do the angle yes

For the front hub bolt it is as follows: Torque Screw Torque Screw -WHT.005.437-/black 200 Nm and turn 180° Screw -WHT.005.437.A-/silver 200 Nm and tighten by 90° For the wheel bearing:

Whats your VIN and ill send you the full details as it varies by bolt type (there are 3 bolt types)

the 2.0tsi had issues with coolant being pushed up the wiring looms tourags had issues with oil being pushed up wires vauxhalls had issues with oil pressure switches failing and pushing oil into the ECUs Its not an unheard of thing so dont ignore it. It should be bone dry and have no oil or fluids of any kind in it. Above the connector is a breather, but there is no valve or anything to allow oil to escape, and if the DSG was that overfilled to allow this, then it will need draining and measuring to confirm if this was the case. Seen as all filling is done from the bottom and the filter is on the rear side, there is no reason for oil to be spilt anywhere near the connector.

So this week involved the final push for all the wiring! Bringing (almost) everything together and even getting some bits finally working. So to get started the entire dashboard had to come out - Ive done this too many times now that i can whip it out in under 2 hours The photos also show the sheer amount of wiring that was tucked behind the drivers footwell Once the dash was out it was a job of locating where all the wiring was going as well as adding the extra wires for things behind the dash So basically everything on the right side of the dash went to either left footwell to join the engine bay harness fuse box BCM everything in the right footwell went to either centre console fuse box BCM 5F radio Then the following was added behind the dash into the rat nest of wires power and ground for heated steering wheel USB hub HSD cables, power and ground Wireless charger harness which split to 5F, fusebox and to left footwell MOST cables from TV tuner to instrument cluster There was also a few wires to neaten up on my travels. So once all the wires were roughly draped in their needed final locations it was then a job of wrapping harnesses to secure all the wires and give it that OE look. Sadly didnt get any photos after this was all wrapped and secured but basically, it looked like no one was ever there. To show the extend of the modifications, the fuse box now gained an additional 9 fuses! A small side note but something that was on my list - everytime the car was started I was greeted by what can only be described as the car yawning at me - the grease on the heater direction flaps had dried out and caused as a squeaking sound almost. So the motors and gears came out, all grease was removed and relubricated with lithium grease. (Even with the entire dashboard out, some of these motors were near impossible to remove!) Back on track.... so all powers and grounds ran, all wires in their final locations, now time to terminate! A custom fakra to quadlock micro pin was created at the 5F unit which is a fancy way of saying, the outer braid had its own terminal and the inner core did too. This was for the 360 camera video feed to the 5F. A few wires were added to the gateway canbus wires as it was the easiest location to access them. A fakra connection in the centre console was added for the signal booster from the wireless charger HSD cables were ran to the rear of the centre console for the usb hub and the usb hub tucked under the centre console area 4 wires were added to the BCM - ventilated seat LINbus, wake up signal from charger, wake up signal from DCC module, heated washer jet power One of the hardest parts came next, 16 loose wires in the left footwell with nothing to connect to! The wires from the engine bay now needed to get to the left footwell and the access point is buried behind the complete heater assembly and behind the ABS module. Neither of these were coming out so i struggled for hours to run the wires and securely waterproof the OE gasket with my new wire feed. First picture shows where it was buried, second shows the wires now emerging. 16 wires, and a HSD cable. All 16 wires were then terminated male and female and the new red plug was added and connected (look factory enough for you?) the blue HSD connector was then terminated male and female and connected up. And this basically summed up the wiring! 4 days work 150 meters of loom tape roughly 530 meters of new wiring a lot of blood and sweat and what do we have to show for it.... well youll have to wait for the next post!