ApertureS

Have you tried opening it, cleaning the seals and closing again? Did it make any difference.

What headlamps have you got, do you have a photo of the top of them to see the part number. Have any modifications been done to the car? If you have Halogen, Xenon, Xenon with SLA they will ALL have different high beam setups. Also last question, is the car a new purchase to you?

Personally ive never seen this kind of failure not on any MQB platform vehicles. Only really saw it on Vauxhall and BMW on brittle connectors. Very strange!

This used to be a trick i done on my old 1.9pd audi. Fill the turbo with mr muscle and pump it in using some washer hose. Leave it over night and wiggle the actuator to free it up a bit. Prevented any further issues luckily.

Which temp sensor are we talking about? What are you replacing it with? What part of the sensor looks corroded? How sure are you its the sensor at fault, what have you done to diagnose it? Are you saying when you take the sensor out, no coolant comes out?

The kessy button is a known fault, the contacts get dirty and wear out very quickly so either needs replacing or taking apart and cleaning.

If it beeps when it goes up then there is normally a fault. Will need plugging in to check for fault codes first of all. Probably a electronic strut sensor has failed.

Sadly seized bolts in the arms/bushes is fairly common on a lot of cars now. Not much that can be done to repair them without damaging the rubber bush so it will often come down to replacing the complete arms and bolts to go with.

The first thing is, the car will most likely throw a tantrum without a correct tow bar setup with electronics. You will probably get faults relating to the ACC and parking sensors. The second thing is, im not 100% sure on this but very light use or not, a trailer needs to have a number plate, working lights and reflectors to be legal. Even if it gets used one day of the year, its still got to conform to all the specs. Youll also want to check your vehicle is legally allowed to tow by looking at the vin plate.

Can you supply exactly what you have done. What software you have used, A full scan of the vehicle and a full report of the faults. Without this we have exactly no idea what youve done and cant help further.

If you got the car brand new why didnt you spec it with the genuine tow bar or at the least tow bar prep? If youre fitting aftermarket towbars now youll have to go about running a wiring loom to the front of the car and to do things properly youll also have to replace the radiator fan pack.

As roottoot said above - There is a recall on the ea888 gen 4 engines where the covers i believe had a fire risk or risk of touching the exhaust so before the dealer sell a car,they have to remove it.

If you can supply a picture of what you are after ill get you a part number thanks

Fitting the tow bar itself is only half the battle. You need dedicated wiring to the tow bar and it all needs coding to the vehicle with a special control unit also. If its not done this way and instead using 'universal' wiring you will end up with issues including parking sensors beeping, acc not working and bulb warnings.

What software/hardware is your 6D module?

Almost like a plastic scraping sound? Pretty common, it will be one of the heater box directional flaps either sticking or not greased sufficiently. Now the only thing is, depending on what system you have there are 5/6 of them. 1. Recirculation 2. Drivers temp 3. Passenger temp 4. Flow direction 5. Windscreen flow direction 6. (Optional) rear temp control It is a job of working out what one is making the noise. Even then it is not a nice job, most of them are buried DEEP behind the dashboard and awkward to get to.

Did you make sure to adapt the new battery Ah also? Changing the gateways stored Ah from 68 to 70?

The headliner is only secured around the outside so fitting something with even a little weight in the middle will just cause it to sag straight away.

You will need a new amp to start with. As this unit has GSM you will need 2 antennas and the correct fakra wiring. The usb will need a new port and cable. This covers the physical side, next it needs fitting, coding, finding the correct datasets for the car and then needs the custom swap codes hacking on to it. Most of this can be done with a variety of tools but you will need VCDS, VCP/ODIS, MibToolbox at the least.

Terraclean is the biggest con going.... Never seen a true fix from it. Its simply putting water mist into the engine and saying its now lovely and clean. Snake oil, placebo. Whatever you want to call it, its a joke. Now if you actually have problems relating to carbon build up then first you need to find out why and fix this, then a proper cleaning method such as walnut blasting is required.

Just a reminder. Often you can wiggle the disc free without removing the carrier. The rust might prevent it but give it a try. Also, these bolts for the brake carrier are single use stretch bolts and are meant to be replaced after every use.

Whatever battery you go for, 2 things you need to consider. - Make sure the spec is the exact same, CCA, Ah, Battery type (AGM,EFB,LAB) - Make sure you adapt the new battery to the vehicle (many people call it ‘coding’ the new battery but it’s not, you are clearing the old adaptations and letting the battery management system know a new battery is fitted and to start monitoring it differently) This can be done with the genuine tool ODIS or something like VCDS

Everyone’s comments are here are right on the money. the water pump shroud is what allows the engine to maintain temperature. This is a known failure point and can intermittently stick in either open or closed position or somewhere between the 2. because of how efficient new diesels are, they will happily run at low load and be able to self regulate their temperature without any assistance. once under a bit more load the shroud retracts allowing coolant to flow freely through the radiator and assist cooling. This explains why at low speeds you’re just fine. Yours sounds like an intermittent sticking fault and will need replacing. This is a part of the cambelt drive system so should be done with a cambelt (5 year intervals). Personally I would be fitting what’s called a non switchable water pump. This simply does away with the shroud and although engine warm up is ever so slightly increased in time, there is no point of failure anymore. dealers I’ve seen quote between £700-900 for the job including water pump. not sure about independent garage prices. If you’re anywhere near London I also offer it as a service. If not, personally I would go for an independent garage and fit quality parts such as INA or Continental and make sure they get a modified water pump with no shroud.

When you say ‘tuned to stage 3’ can we have an idea of specs, what has been done and such. Very interested to hear how much power you’re putting out

Who has got the tail lamps fitted pre facelift and got the additional wire back to the bcm? if they do; drop me a pm. I’ve got some things for you to try and possibly get working.