ApertureS

EDIT - didnt see the message above. Flexible is up to 20k or 2 years but to be honest, if you care about the car, do it every year. The only reason long life services became a thing is to keep lease companies happy as they dont have to pay out for as much maintenance. Just cause the oil can last up to 20k, doesnt mean it should.

The part number is 3C0 127 400 C the rest is for other stuff, with this you can either buy new genuine for around £200 or look for aftermarket/second hand for a cheaper price.

The 1.4 belt change should not be costing you £900!! The 2.0tdi belt I change for around £600 with a coolant change. The 1.4tsi belt I change for around the £400 mark. Who quoted you 900 for it?

Ive found it actually works out cheaper to buy a full set from skoda-parts.com in Czech and have them posted that it is to buy from the UK dealer. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e0601151fod-wheel-hub-centre-cap-with-a-skoda-logo-19744.html

Take a look at this!

This really doesnt have enough attention, this is what we all need!

Look at my message above. The pedal being between 10-90% is perfectly normal, its when it drops above or below that there are faults. Throttle pedal is not what you should care about at any speed for this situation - its throttle body position that matters. The pedal is nothing more than a 'load request'

Pedal mapping will be linear. Throttle postion will not. Your pedal will only move between 10 and 90% as either side of these are error checking areas. Its also used as part of a kick down on automatics. Your pedal movement sensor should move linearly with pedal pressing. Please also measure both position sensors at the same time and use the graph function and post a photo here.

There seems to be a lot of dealers not having a clue what they’re working with here and just taking guesses lol. if your acc is unavailable it means there is a problem, the car knows there is a problem and will of already self diagnosed it leaving a fault code. Chances are the calibration of the front radar will be knocked out by something as simple as a pot hole. The reason it comes and goes is because it could be just on the threshold of the tolerances before throwing a code. This is one of them systems with a very good self diagnosis and a very small tolerance for error and should be straight forward to work out the fault. a simple reset probably means they have no idea and just cleared the codes and gave it back and if it happens again they’ll take a look. it’s worrying how many ‘qualified’ people don’t know anything about adas systems

The difference 20mm would make is negligible and no more than the car being fully loaded. now if you were to put a stupidly large spacer or stack spacers you’d start putting a lot of pressure on the bearings but this kind of amount wouldn’t cause any issues.

It’s across the entire vag hybrid range. It is literally a foil mat that sits on top of the fuse and contractor area.

Caliper bolts are just a single torque setting. the carrier bolts on the other hand are stretch bolts and need a torque setting followed by an angle. sometimes you can wiggle the disc past the carrier without removing it. Saves a lot of time

I think he may be on about the door open display, sounds like a faulty door latch that for a split second shows open? might be wrong. Have you got a photo of it?

57mph is the sweet spot, on my 2.0 tsi dsg 220 I average 55mpg over a 80 mile trip. Long journeys to work made me find the optimal for everything!

I believe Virtual Cockpit can be done on certain MIB2 units with MOST, but the crux is - you can only display maps on one or the other, there is a new button that appears on the infotainment display allowing you to switch between radio or instrument display.

Heard of many a failed Dayco belt before, never personally had it though. Personally I fit INA on my car and customers cars without worrying.

Ive been giving you OEM data and wiring diagrams from the start, why purchase more of what you have? Did you fix the other faults relating to throttle body codes or is this the same on going fault? and VCDS is the much better tool to scan it with than a generic scan tool, VCDS will give more detail than a generic P code.

You need to remove the entire centre section then unbolt it from underneath

As much as this will 99% work. Id first read the manual cover to cover to check it mentions nothing about jump starting another car. Just to be on the safe side and prevent a expensive bill. My thinking behind it is, the massive current surge through the DC/DC converter may be enough to overload it and possibly damage it. The small superb 12V battery is not made to start a car so never needs a massive charge put into it so the DC/DC converter doesn't have to be massive and can have a small current capacity. That being said it may be perfectly fine but id first make sure you are covered by the manual and if it states not to, well then its on you if you fry something.

No idea but they arent all that common among any year, it would be nice if it was a standard fit item

I was looking at these, which size did you go for? the 7 or 14 litre? Regarding the polarizing, my car is at the body shop but ill double check im not getting confused when its back next week hopefully!

I would assume they are at least partially polarized - the reason I say this for the rear window at least is when you wear polarized sunglasses and look through the rear window you get the funny effect of double polarization. That is just my input on it, I might be completely wrong. Same thing was my Audi A4's rear window and that was polarized.

The amount of fuel tanks I’ve pulled from cars including my old 1984 vw polo and there was literally nothing in the tank, no sediment, debris, dirt. this thing of not running a tank dry is a load of rubbish to be honest

I’d happily tell you if I had a clue myself 😂😂

Sportline will have sat nav also, all depends on spec but 99% of L&K and sportline will have sat nav.