CS363

Running the engine after normal driving is not required unlike old school turbo engines. However, if you've been giving it a caning right before you get to your detination then it should be run for a minute after stopping. In most conditions, say after a long out of town trip where you might have been giving it a bit of welly, the reality is that by the time you've driven through town/the suburbs to get to your house the engine has already cooled sufficiiently. This is from the owners manual: Risk of engine overheating! ▶ Do not switch the engine off immediately at the end of your journey after the engine has been running at high loads. Leave it to run at an idling speed for about 1 minute.

That one in the link you first posted looks the same as mine FWIW

As above, this is normal behaviour and mine also seems to have got better with the passing of time. It's only a problem if it doesn't go away once the headlamp is warmed up or if the condensation becomes particularly heavy.

This could also be a symptom of a windscreen being replaced and the camera not being properly calibrated at that time, it happens...

For anyone interested here's the pics of the towbar and install, and before anyone asks - the swing away style factory towbars are deemed illegal here by the powers that be...

I just ordered it through the local dealer (W.R.Phillips), it's the towbar with removable tongue and comes with the ECU/wiring kit. From memory it was about $1850 all up fitted. I'll take a pic later...

What a pain in the rear, literally! Hope they sort it for you ASAP

Great glad to hear that it sounds like it's sorted for you 🤞

Or more likely Larry....

I hate electrical errors, so hard to track down! I see there are similar posts on some of the VW forums, most come back to either a faulty alternator or battery control module. Not sure where you're based as you don't have that info on your avatar, but in most countries not only the warranty but consumer laws should provide sufficient cover to get this fixed. If it was me I'd be kicking up a stick with your dealer as this is not 'fit for purpose', they should probably be looking at swapping the alternator, battery, battery control module etc., until they find the fault. These days with electrical stuff it often seems to check out OK but can still be faulty - intermittent faults are the pits,

How odd, it's a standard feature here - such a strange thing to skimp on especially in a relatively high-spec car. I don't think I've seen any new cars for sale here without that feature (and it's not compulsory (yet!)), and with the UK's fixation with Health & Safety it really surprises me.

Excuse my ignorance, but is this feature not standard on UK deliivered vRS's?

Not had that issue, but it sounds like either a battery or charging issue - probably best to get the dealer to check it unless you have a multimeter and know how to check correct charging voltage etc. But as the car is (I assume) still under warranty, beter to go to the dealer.

Just a thought - This would make me suspect the boot lock mechanism, I would think part of it would have some sort of switch to operate the interior light/boot open warning etc. It might just be sticking or have some dirt in it - worth checking if you haven't already.

From the owners manual: Tank capacity for vehicles with front-wheel drive ▶ About 45 litres or 50 litres (depending on engine type), of which 6 litres are a reserve. ▶ For natural gas vehicles, the content of the petrol tank is approximately 9 litres. Tank capacity for vehicles with all-wheel drive About 55 litres, including a reserve of approx. 6 litres. I checked with the dealer and they stated that the vRS is 50 litre tank, which tallies with what I've assumed based on fill amounts in the past.

Having just had my '21 vRS serviced, the oil the dealer used was Castrol EDGE Professional LL IV FE 0W-20

I'll second the fact that Panasonic seem to be the only batteries that last after having constant battery warnings in the past and using multiple brands such as Energiser, Duracell and cheap Chinese ones. Eventually I bought two boxes of them as my motorcycle uses the same battery for it's keyless system. Since then absolutely no issues. FWIW the boxes state CR-2032PG/1B as the part number

I'm fairly certan that my vRS is a 50 litre tank as I've definitely put more than 40 litres in it but never over 50 and that's with it saying 50km range left on the dash.

I've towed a motorcycle trailer several times with 2 or 3 road bikes and barely noticed the trailer, in all cases this was for long distances and varied terrain and mostly using cruise control. The only downside was fuel consumption was a bit worse but that is to be expected. In New Zealand the factory towbars are not legal, so we use locally produced (well Australian) towbars that meet local certification with a removable tongue. I believe the electronics package they fitted is the same as the ones used in Europe as it is a Skoda factory item.

Interestingly I've never had an issue with Travel Assist, but just a couple of days ago I booked my car in for a yearly service as the indicator came up on the dash and this was one of the things they did to the car, listed as "WARRANTY - Customer Complaint - 48S5 S-Assistance systems camera control unit CRITERION 01" on the invoice. besides the normal checks and oil and filter change they also fitted a new pollen filter, changed the brake fluid and changed the differential oil.

OE is Panasonic, at least on my car and a friends - both NZ market models FWIW.

Had the same issue myself a while back, bit of a head scratcher at first but once you figure it out it's quite simple! 🙂

The warning applies to the key currently in use. Who knows how old the battery is in your spare fob, could have been sitting around for months and they do discharge, particularly if the key has been moved, every time you move the key it searches for the car evidenced by the flashing red led. As an update on my earlier post, I've since purchased some Panasonic CR2032's these are lasting way better than anything else I've used, likewise in my Ducati's key which is a similar system.

I can't help too much with this as I've never had a heated screen, however I do know that some cars do have cut outs for dashcams/GPS etc. This video may give you some pointers, you'll probably need to experiment as in the video if you can find a radar source. Worst case scenario you might have to find one of those remote mount detectors that mount behind the grille/bumper - where there's a will, there's a way! 😁 https://www.youtube.com/embed/Dd5YyLgyw5E

Agreed, I ended up downloading it and printing a copy - so much easier to find things though the manual is the size of an Encylopedia Brittanica volume... 😂