Routemaster1461

I gave up using Adaptie Cruise, simply because it would drive the car like a maniac, driving at the speed limit rather than a comfortable speed, charging at bends, braking sharply. It frightened me as a driver, I dread to think what would happen if I used it if my wife was a passenger.

Google maps tends to be better, but it still has lags when limits have changed and Google hasn't updated. It is frustrating when Google has one limit, you car shows a different limit, and you know from the road signage that they are both wrong.

All of those errors are, as you say, linked to a fault in the ABS system. If it doesn't clear, you will probably have to read or have the codes read and go from there.

Regeneration of DPF?

My 71 reg 1.5 manual does suffer from kangarooing BUT it is only from a cold start and it is only for the first 100 metres up to the t-junction at the end of my close. After that it is no issue.

On a front wheel drive car, it is when applying a lot of power, the car pulls to left or right. There are several potential causes, including different grip level from the tyres (cheap and worn one side, high grade and new on the other), or unequal length driveshafts. I had one car which was ok most of the time but had terrible torque steer if the accelerator was pressed too hard, but no-one could find the fault. I got rid of the car, but thinking about it, I wonder whether the differential or a driveshaft had failed and the power was only on one wheel.

What happens if you replace the fuse without the dashcam connected and switch on? If it still blows it would seem to indicate a wiring short.

Modern cars with alternators are not like cars with dynamos used to be. It could be a failing alternator, a failing battery or some kind of parasitic drain. I have a voltage meter, the kind you put in your 12v socket. These are readily and cheaply available from Amazon. Plug one in and you should see the cahnge in voltage as the engine revs. It should read ~12v when idling, then increase to ~14 v when charging. If you do this you have evidence to show the dealer. Or simply go to another dealer. If the car is only 18 months old it should be a free fix under warranty.

Did the wrnings indicate which tyre had the pressure loss? I did on my Karoq while I was in Austria. My other car, non VAG, also has TPMS but does not indicate which tyre. Shame, because it should, in theory, be easy to code the TPMS to do this and is extremely helpful.

I have set a speed limit warning on my 2021 Karoq. It warns of overspeeding (0, 3 or 6 mphover posted speed) which of course is in itself inaccurate as the speedo under-reads by about 3mph. The issue I have is that I don't know where the system gets its limits from. There is a small town near me where the limit in the town centre is 20mph (very reasonably) but there is a small ring road round the north side which is 30 mph limit. However, some some reason the system thinks that all of it is 20 mph so it gives a spurious warning. The ring road is 'national speed limit' and has streetlights, so there are no 30 signs apart from the first one entering the town, and there are no 20 signs to be mistakenly read. There is a long way to go before speed limits and car systems can be considered accurate.

I don't think that there is a diesel Kamiq, or for that matter, a Karoq. Petrol cars, although more complex than they used to be, don't have nearly so many issues. No DPF, although they do have aGPF (not nearly so many issues), no EGR valve, no Adblue pump.

From my experience with my Karoq and a Stellantis car, I would say this is quite normal.

The real issue with this fault is that there are several possible causes. I have posted on this subject many times as Skoda suggested several possible solutions and it seems difficult to diagnose which will be successful. After being initialy told that it was probably the switch between continental phone providers, and me telling them that it happened in the UK as well, it changed to faulty aerials. I had four new aerials, and it still persisted. I was told, some time between the aerial changes that it needed a software update with also failed to cure the issue. Eventually last autumn, after the issue had persisted since summer 2023 (iirc), a fairly long investigation concluded that it was a faulty cable connecting something near the back bumper to something else at the front of the car. Even this became an issue as the part number that Skoda Tech supplied turned out to be a cable approx 4 metres too short. Eventually the dealers had to make one up. So it allseems well now. We've not used the car much since but thankfully it is now seems OK. I don't write this to worry other owners. I just want to point out that there are many potential ideas about what the cause of the issue is. The only potentail cause I have seen online that has not been mentioned to me is a failure of of the control unit. Luckily for me the entire issue has been covered by my warranty and extended warranty so the only cost to me has been the inconvenience of taking the car in and collecting again and the time that it has taken, with at least 2 visits taking a week in the workshop. As it was a fault, they comped the loan cars.

This is in itself a little odd as the service interval is, as far as I am aware, 15,000 km.

Odd. They worked for me on Windows 10.

The dashboard in the photos looks like the one in a base level Scala i had as a loan car. The configurable part is much smaller than in my Karoq, and I couldn't get any configuration with two dials.

Just had a Fiat Panda hybrid as a hire car in Portugal. The braking felt a little odd as itstarted charging downhill on over-run. Just like aircon cutting in.

The indirect system works by comparing the rotation speed of each wheel with a standard speed set when initiallised. If a tyre loses pressure it will rotate faster and the alarm will go off. I have two cars with indirect TPMS. On the older one (a Stellantis car) the alarm just shows that there is a pressure loss but not which tyre. I had this a couple of weeks ago. It was a piece of stone which produced a jagged unrepairable puncture, and the pressure loss was fast enough that I could feel where it was due to the way it pulled to the left. Our Karoq also once gave me a warning, but in this case it told me which tyre was affected. It should have been easy with a bit of extra coding to indicate which tyre is a problem. My daughter has a 2008 Panda and that had a puncture about the same time as the Stellantis car. In both cases we were glad of the fact that both had spare wheels. It was inconvenient, but would have been far more inconvenient if they weren't available.. I would never have a car without a spare if at all possible. As for filling with nitrogen, there are apparently some benefits, and some of the claims are true. But in a cost/benefit analysis the general opinion seems to be that it is a waste of money. It's ok for Formula 1 cars and airliners, but gains are really marginal for general use.

Interesting! I did a 50 mile each way trip earlier in the week. The westbound trip gave 49.6 mpg, and the later eastbound trip gave 44.0 mpg. Generally I find that my mpg is slightly better on a return trip than outbound. I put this down to the engine perhaps being a little freer as it may stll be warm.

I know it may be different from my Karoq, but on that the auto hold is controlled from a button near the gearstick. Once activated it stays active.

There are several people on this or similar threads with various solutions. However, no-one mentioned what seemed to be my issue, which was solved (fingers crossed, its been ok so far) by replacing what was considered to be a faulty cable running the lenght of the car, which had to be specially fabricated. Only took 8 visits to the agent!

I don't understand why this is fishy. It seems it was tested 10 months ago and has 2 months left. If you wish to buy the car you could always ask for it to be supplied with a new MOT.

I have a Nextbase that uses battery power faster than a 2 amp adaptor can supply, and it eventually shuts down. I run it with the screen on so I can be sure it is working. I have to use a 3 amp adapter for it and it is fine now.

I have ACC on my manual Karoq, and I wish I hadn't paid extra for it. It should be ok for motorways, but I don't lie the way it sets the cruise speed. If I am cruising at, say, 65mph and I reach a 50mph restriction, it slows to 50mph. Fine. When you get to the end of the 50mph limit the ACC resets to 70mph, not the 65mph I want. I tried it on some A roads. I'm in the south/sout-west, and we have many fairly fast A roads. ACC seems fine on the relatively straight bits, but come to a few bends and it is awful. It tries to take bends far to fast, brake late and heavily, and is extremely uncomfortable or me, et alone my wife who would not be happy at all. Mine is set to ordinary cruise, and is generally ok, I just wish the ovr-run braking was smoother and less intusinve. Not too bad on the motorway, but still causes issues when approaching slower traffic and moving to overtake.

I don't have that screen, however, mine has never shown the date on ether the virtual cockpit or the central screen.