Dooge

If OP has invested in Carista (like I did) and found it hasn't done what he wanted (like I did), and continues to want LED sidelights bulbs that don't seem bring up errors 99% of opinion on here is it needs coding out. Unless you have the expertise (I dont) or time to learn VCDS and a cable or OBD11 (I dont) getting someone else to code it out is pretty much the only practical way other than trying multiple bulbs on recommendations. Going back to stock bulbs is easiest and cheapest. But yes, some people are that anal they will go to great lengths to have it the way they want it. The great modern combination of marketing and consumer culture.

Is it so offensive to see people doing what they want? Or getting things wrong? Let people do what they want, it's their money. Not like its breaking laws. Some people spend thousands modifying cars, a few bulbs is a drop in the ocean.

Small update, bought me a racey red and black silicone key cover for the pricely sum of £4.49 from eBay 😅 Also had some coding completed and my dashcam hardwired in by a company called Retrofits South West. Paid £40 for coding and £80 for dash cam. I had coded: LED sidelights LED numberplate lights Passenger mirror drops in reverse Dual rear fog lights Up the brightness of the reversing bulbs I tried to add Skoda Surround and Virtual Subwoofer but my nav unit is too old. Also realised one of my xenon bulbs is on its way out. Hard to see from the picture but the right hand side is definitely more yellow and starting to flicker. Osram Nightbreakers are on the list but cheapest I can find is £135 a pair! 😟

People go on about 'error free' like they are always guaranteed to work. My experience of VAG stuff is the canbus system is so sensitive its rare to find any LED bulb that doesn't set an error off. I fitted the Halfords ones (own brand, cap bulb with white plastic base?) Which was about my 4th different 'error free' bulb I tried with no joy. I've just today had the LED sidelights error coded out. I had several other things coded at the same time for £40. Worth waiting and getting done if you plan to do LED numberplate lights or any other LED light options and do it all at the same time.

Thanks @langers2k, I wouldn't know where to start! He sorted it but I couldn't tell you what he did to do it. He did say the channels I gave him didn't work for my car, initially he didn't know if it was the bulbs but after talking to his boss they sorted it. If its useful to anyone in the future, the below didn't work for my car. Ill email him and see if I can find out what he selected to make this thread useful. The channels you need to change are: (1)-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Lasttyp 16 to 6 - LED Lichtmodul (1)-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Lasttyp 17 to 6 - LED Lichtmodul

Hey all, I have my car in for coding with a professional at the moment, I showed him the 'tried and tested' guide for VCDS adaptions for coding our the LED of sidelight LED bulbs and it hasn't worked. Car is a 2015 Octavia VRS pre facelift. Sidelights are bog standard Halfords LED cap bulbs. Does anyone know what else it could be as there's many many options! Thanks in advance, Doug

Ah good to know, I know I don't have this option so it's not activated.

Thanks buddy, do you know if it was an option that was activated via dealers? I'm wondering if it's already been done as I always thought the sound was better on the Bluetooth/media.

Hey all, I might be completely off base here, I saw an OBD11 list someone put up on Facebook for adaptations and scrolled through with interest. One option was as titled: Skoda Surround and Virtual Subwoofer. I am looking to get some other more common things coded in and wondered if this would work. 2 main questions: 1) I am thinking that OBD11 is just another coding option compared to VCDS with similar functionality, meaning this can be done through VCDS also? 2) Has anyone done this? Does it actually work? The name suggests its unlocks something that maybe improves sound, though I know you get nothing for free! Pic of the option below. I did have a search but can't search 40 pages of results. Thanks for any help, Doug

I bought a pair of generic ones from eBay. They came with no instructions but were fairly easy to work out. The ones I bought (and I believe the majority) replace one painted bolt that holds the wing on and one of the two Torx bolts that hold the bonnet to the bonnet hinges (photo of mine attached) In terms of instructions, fairly easy to fit. Firstly, use locktite on all fittings. Once the original bolts are out, fit in this order - end fitting for the bonnet end, then attach the gas strut (mine came pre-fitted in packaging so had to unscrew) so you can Torque up the fitting to the bonnet. Then fit the ball end bolt to the wing and connect the strut. It's almost impossible to get the ball end and strut apart once they are connected. I hope this helps, drop me a PM if you get stuck.

I can't help you out Jon but if you are on Facebook you could look up the 'VCDS Users UK' group and find out if someone is nearby. There's also a local to you thread on here in a coding area, not sure it's up to date though.

Thanks buddy, mines not under any warranty so I'll have a look without trying to manhandle it too much 😬

You'll probably find that anything more than 5k will start producing poorer light than 4.3k-5k range too. People swear blind that £20 bulbs from eBay are fine but there's a reason that decent bulbs cost. Both for a lasting perspective, brightness and beam pattern and ignitor quality. OEM are Philips, I'm looking to get Osram Night Breaker Xenarc bulbs however. These can be picked up around £135 a pair online.

Pretty sure I've seen mk5/mk6 Golf plastic battery boxes fitting into the existing Octavia battery trays but can't find any links now. I don't think it's hard, and a second hand battery box from a breaker should do the job. From memory the battery tray is the same, it's probably a way of cost cutting by not fitting a plastic case. In colder weather the slightly insulated case would do more than a plastic box to keep the battery warmer though.

Sorry to revive an old thread @finnster01, I have EXACTLY the same buzz. Happens between 1900 and just over 2000rpm in every mode. I have seen a video of removal of the knee airbag below the steering wheel, it seems its held on with 3 bolts. The mounting holes seem slightly elongated so I wonder if it's just vibrating off trim. Did they actually replace your airbag or just adjust it?

Thanks! With prams, bags of stuff and a dog it was definitely needed! 😂 It's an oil change, filter and check for updates scenario I think. If I'm honest, not alot of difference, maybe a tiny bit smoother. The gearbox was supposedly serviced before I bought it by a backyard garage (couldn't even find a number or address online for them, just had a bit of printed paper) so in theory although it might have been done, I can't guarantee it and wanted peace of mind and the service history too. If it wasn't done, it was only 6k past its service schedule so shouldn't cause a problem for future longevity. I also do quite short journeys and little mileage.

Not much to report recently! My wife gave birth on Friday 14th so I've been blessed with a baby boy and lack of sleep 😂 The VRS did clock over £86k and as I've saved money on not driving it to and from work (paternity + a few weeks leave) I got it into the local Skoda dealership for a DSG service. Sorted in a day with a free 'health check'. Made me laugh though, due to errors on the dash for LED sidelights and numberplate lights they quoted to replace them... £111!!! Needless to say I didn't take them up on their offer 😳

Have you been to a dealer or contact anyone online like Horton Skoda? Or asked breakers on eBay?

Halfords can do it (I know, I was dubious too) whether they would do it as a charge for a battery they didn't fit I don't know. I've also read that some can get away with it and errors should disappear after a few cycles of ignition.

I'm not 100% sure how downloads from YouTube work, I know people upload in multiple formats to YouTube so do you get out what is put in, if you see what I mean? Just because you use the same downloading software are you getting different encoded MP3 formats?

Yashin, the format doesn't matter if the encoder used to create an MP3 isn't compatible. Make a note of what songs work and do some research into the differences. I would doubt its the card as its it working for some. Could also be a minimum bit rate it has to use.

Yours already has a wider rear track by 19mm over the pre-facelift cars. Probably couldn't put massive spacers on, the issue you have I think is spigot depth. If you want to use proper hubcentric (and you do unless you are mad) the spigot depth will probably be minimum 10mm, which might be too much for boosting the rear. Could get universal spacers but wouldn't go more than a few millimetres if at all.

Very very interesting! I've seen things on BMW differentials and subframes but I can understand that with a differential, propshaft, driveshafts, etc. You would need counter weights. OP, as for sound deadening, there are a few threads. I cheaped out and bought a roll of stuff from eBay for a tenner and lined the boot. Has it done much? Not loads, maybe taken the edge off on motorway journeys. If you are going to do it, you would need to do the entire boot floor and both wheel arches and sides. It's not cheap but would make it much quieter.

Plastic slaves are common to just fail on all vehicles. I got 94k out of my old mk6 GTi but heard stories of them going much earlier. This would cause the clutch pedal to probably almost go to the floor but maybe have some kind of engagement/rebound. It juat takes a hairline fracture to lose that pressure. I paid £950 for a clutch pack (clutch plate, pressure plate and slave cylinder) and labour through a specialist independent garage. Flywheel is obviously not cheap but I can't imagine another £1000 on top! You are in that difficult situation where the car has failed and you can't really drive it. It could have been a faulty clutch from the start, or it could have driven it in a way which put pressure on the clutch (too low revs, pulling away in 2nd all the time, slipping the clutch consistently) Is this a dealer or independent garage? Ask for a break down in costs to see what the have charged for. If its dealer chances are the costs will be down to labour and not necessarily parts, although these will be higher than getting the parts from elsewhere. Any warranty/Service plan in place you could claim through? I hope you get it sorted for less!

235's were cheaper than 225's when I bought them as 235's are a more common size.