Jorgeminator

I've got the DQ200 yeah, but I thought they would behave similarly. It's not a hybrid, just bi-fuel CNG/petrol with the 1.5 TSI.

Just lift your foot quicker off the accelerator and it will go straight to engine braking. Takes some time to get used to, but when you do you can force either coasting or engine braking just by the way you lift your foot.

No.

Noticed them while soundproofing the boot on my liftback last year. The flap hidden behind the black shroud visible on the left side panel. The shroud itself is just hard plastic and isn't very firm, so I glued some foam over it to keep it from rattling, just in case.

I must agree that Skoda did a great job at hiding the slot for popping the cover off 😄 Yesterday in -10°C, my 2022 Octavia suddenly started leaving the driver's door unlocked every time I tried locking the car, giving me codes " B122B13: Central locking motor Open circuit" and "B122D29: Lock unit for central locking Implausible signal". Luckily, before bringing it in to the garage, I decided it was too early for something to break just after 12 months of ownership, so I popped that cover off and did a full manual locking + unlocking, and voilà, it now locks again. Go figure 😂 @a1dan75 Make sure to insert the key as far as it goes in the slot, then pry outwards while keeping the handle pulled out. It takes a little bit of force, but it will come off without leaving any marks as long as you take it slowly. When done, the cover goes back just by snapping it on, also while having the handle pulled outwards. Probably the same procedure as your previous car.

Then why are you so against the heated windscreen when it will do the job quicker than heat from the engine?

Do you live under a stone? If you had any real life experience, you'd know it takes a significant time starting the engine from cold until the coolant gets hot enough to start thawing your windscreen. I bet you have never seen colder than -10°c... 😂

What is this gibberish, and what does it have to do with the heated windscreen? On topic: I find that even in -10°C it only takes a couple of minutes for the heating to remove any frost or loosen thin snow enough that it can be wiped away.

Definitely not normal, but it seems to be a fairly common bug. I'm not sure if there's a fix for it yet. Next time it happens, try quickly pressing the heater button again, cycling through all the levels. Sometimes I can get the error to disappear before the second ding by doing that.

Did you by any chance turn off or reduce the steering wheel heater just before those popped up? Emergency assist and front assist (the two lights to the left) usually pop up together when doing that. ACC and lane assist could get disabled if either the windscreen camera or the front radar gets fogged up or otherwise contaminated.

That's clearly unacceptable. I've had some very slight fogging of that part of the lens, but nothing even close to what would cause it to start dripping like that.

No, they cannot. Drawing a parallel to computers, that would be similar to denying warranty on the graphics card because it broke while your CPU was overclocked.

Summer tires: Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance 1. 205/55R17 Winter tires: Continental VikingContact 7 205/55R17.

Thanks, very helpful! I wonder if they compensate for the lack of ACT by using the Miller cycle to increase the CR, since the G-Tec is mighty efficient on the highway 🤔 I've done 2.5kg/100km or ~4 l/100km quite a few times.

I have the digital cluster and there's definitely no 2-cylinder indication whatsoever. The eco icon comes on when the DSG is coasting out of gear, that's about it. Then again, I have the 1.5 TSI G-Tec, not sure if the CNG version uses 2-cylinder mode, although I strongly suspect it does.

The "Recent campaign query" thread is pinned globally. That's the thread @Grady is talking about.

Well, it could be a hardware issue, but part of it could also very well lie in the software or hardcoded thresholds. I don't know the innards of the VW hardware/software interface, but I'm fairly sure the only problem could be a (badly determined) threshold being exceeded. Either that, or there's bad components or open circuits somewhere.

I've finally started to expect the ding every time I drive off after washing it on a cold/dewy evening. Got me by surprise in the beginning 🤣 As you guys have said, it clears itself after a minute of driving.

You can't tell the temperature of your engine by putting your hand on the plastic cover. A combustion engine is around 90°C when up to temp and you definitely don't want to touch the block or valve cover with your bare hands, ask me how I know. The pump you hear is the auxiliary water pump which circulates coolant to smooth out temperature gradients after shutting down. It also keeps warm coolant flowing through the heater core so that you can have a nice warm cabin in the traffic lights while the engine is stopped.

What sort of vibration/noise are you experiencing? I've done a lot of soundproofing on my own O4, I might be able to track it down for you if I could get a more detailed description 😉

Tell me about it 😄

Depends on what you mean by a fair amount, and the conditions. The radiator will be closer to 90-100°C if stationary, so there would definitely be vapor coming off it if rain or any sort of water is left standing there. Other sources of quick steaming would be the turbocharger and the exhaust manifold, but those are behind the engine, not at the front grille. My old Golf 1.8T let off steam when I hosed it from the front, that's fully normal. Not a good idea hosing the turbo or exhaust manifold directly, though.

What was the weather like? Was there any fog or high moisture/steep temperature gradients? The front radar can get confused if there's even the slightest of dew on the front grille, the water interferes with the radio beam. Same thing with the windscreen camera, any moisture buildup could obscure its view, disabling lane assist until the windscreen is clear again.

I have soundproofed my front arch liners with deadening material, didn't improve much, except some reduced noise from stones hitting the liner. My guess is that the vibrations from tire-asphalt contact are transferred through the suspension to the bodywork. Large panels such as the roof and floor then amplify the noise. I noticed some improvement just by deadening the passenger side floor, so I think I'm on the right track.

Mine came from the factory with rear lights on during the day, only the fronts change between DRL/dipped.