Edela

Many short trips with big intervals. Every time car heats itself up, that drains battery a lot. Just for curiosity you could try to fully charge and make a few longer trips to see what consumption would be. Preheating car via app or departure schedules would win some miles, too.

Depends on speeds. My experience is that on freeway speeds having full battery does not help much. I don't bother charging it on long trips. Though on slower trips (below 100km/h) the difference is huge and I typically have 3,5 - 4 L/100km (70-80mpg).

Infotainment's button, below the screen. It is just that if infotainment is stuck on constant loading, rebooting it is often the solution, as to many other issues.

Depends on the error message, I think. AFAIK, if radar or camera are dirty, it should say that Front Assist is temporarily limited or something like that. At least I had such messages when driving in snow and radar was covered in snow. If just unavailable - that might be the old known issue which should have been fixed on newer cars, older cars had to go through service campaign 4S58 to address that.

15 seconds press on on/off button to reboot infotainment. In any case, when battery is depleted car will switch to ICE, so nothing to worry about. Also, moving gear selector beyond D will put car in sport mode, you will see D changing for S on your dashboard. This will put the car in hybrid mode, too. Just a bit harsher press on accelerator and ICE will kick in. Auxiliary heating or cooling is on. It should turn off some time after you lock the car.

It's not really to argue, but Isn't it a bit illogical? If some conditions are not met, then why would they become "met" right after switching ignition off and on again? Though the first kilometers ICE is the least efficient and will eat the most fuel. Anyway, I read somewhere that it is all about catalytic converter. Like, car wants to do some idle regen once in a while. I have doubts that's true but who knows... Definitely this is not the issue of low 12V battery, because there is a warning messages for low charge of 12V and if either of these messages pop up, it does not trigger ICE to start, and it doesn't need ICE to charge anyway. Not low temp, at least in my experience. I was parking car outside overnight in -12 and went electric no problem.

Since your car is brand new and already comes with 1940, yes, it will get SW updates OTA. However, there was a speculation previously that 1940 and 1941 are the same SW, just one is installed when car is made (1940) and the other is to update older versions (1941) on older cars. As far as I read online, nobody could confirm it, but it might be true. SOS module as all other modules have their own software, and as far as my experience with Skoda goes, they try to solve the problem locally with particular module before applying SW update or doing something else.

I had on-off loops and restarts for 2 days in a row in October. Appeared for no reason, resolved by itself - very typical for this car.

If your car was 3 years old, I bet you had the same old H56 hardware anyway. It's not like they will swap H56 to H61 or something else, they will keep replacing the same H56, no matter how many times it fails.

FYI, this annoys af those behind you.

I never had a chance to drive in UK so I may only guess why, but I see online that only (or mostly) people from there are complaining about lane assist. In EU I never had issues with lane assist except when had to drive on roads covered in snow, where the track cars made did not alight with road markings.

I'm not referring to WLTP at all. I mean, I've seen average of 30 or 40 for a trip, so it doesn't seem like car tries to make numbers nicer and closer to WLTP. I just think that for some reason car can't evaluate consumption well. Which is a big surprise to me, since I thought unlike air flow in ICEs, electrical current flow is something we learned to measure very precisely. But not in an EV for some reason. I suspect that what car regenerates is not what it actually charges in its battery and this is where the difference coming from.

Consumption values are some random values tbh. Here is a recent example: I drove 50 km and arrived home with 5% left, infotainment shows my consumption was 15 kWh/100km. How does this make sense if battery is 11 kWh? Even if useful capacity is more like 10 kWh, with such low consumption I should have made over 60 km. So watching such numbers I surprisingly learned that actually ICE cars estimate consumption much better than EVs...

Aren't all brands use the same VW server? I've seen somewhere before that Skoda was excusing themselves for terrible connectivity saying they are fully dependent on VW infrastructure and can't change anything. Sounds legit to me.

Right, 3.6 is a peak power it can take. But even small battery has some charging curve, so last quarter or so is charged with less power than when the battery is empty. My charger shows me consumption per hour and I always see that first hour car takes exactly 3.6 and next two hours a bit less.

Almost never worked for me. With only a few exceptions, app was always saying there is no power connected to the car and it won't launch charging. I figured it will start charging only if I push the button before care goes to sleep though. Octavia won't take more than 3.6 anyway.

Sounds like you have charging schedule set. % of minimum charge is how much car will charge regardless schedule, but it will stop at this state of charge and will wait for scheduled departure time or off-peak time to continue charging till full.

Still winter Bridgestone is much quieter than summer Goodyear with which my Skoda came from factory.

In theory, yes. In reality I see my Octavia is not able to keep charge level on highways. It will deplete battery while accelerating and won't recharge to the same state. So I figured that if I need some charge on arrival, I'd just put it to charge some time before, and let it deplete battery as much as it wants before that. It also gives better mileage than if I will run with 'keep charge' setting on.

December last year I was on a long trip and, when crossed French border, my infotainment got into constant reboot loop until it died completely. Other users on this forum were mentioning that their reboots began in France, too. Personally, I'm always suspecting that reboots are triggered by comms module rather than it is infotainment failing itself. However, in September I was going to France again and didn't have issues on 1941. Issues came a few days after I came back home for heck knows what reason, but probably infotainment overheated.

I will check this next time I will drive in hybrid mode, but in electric it only switches on regen and switching 'gears' up or down does nothing.

What we were talking about is changing regen force by paddles, not just switching it on and off. Also, at least on my 2020 model, it does not switch full regen when toggling left paddle. It is some sort of automatic mode and It never brakes as hard as it could. For example, driving downhill I toggle left paddle and car still accelerates while regenerating, but if I toggle cruise control, it starts regenerating much better and has no problem holding constant speed. I imagine that it would start applying full regen if I choose it to do so in the settings, but it would come with regen kicking in when I release gas pedal, which I don't need at all.

Yes.

In case of PHEV that is correct. Battery is in the back and it weights a lot. I'm still struggling sometimes with front wheels slip when I apply throttle, especially on wet roads.

I had this issue for 4 days in a row every time I started the car. It was in the end of September, no issues since that 4 days period. Wow, what a great service! I wish my dealer could see a thing, so I hadn't to make pictures and try to convince them that I actually have something wrong...