Edela

I will check this next time I will drive in hybrid mode, but in electric it only switches on regen and switching 'gears' up or down does nothing.

What we were talking about is changing regen force by paddles, not just switching it on and off. Also, at least on my 2020 model, it does not switch full regen when toggling left paddle. It is some sort of automatic mode and It never brakes as hard as it could. For example, driving downhill I toggle left paddle and car still accelerates while regenerating, but if I toggle cruise control, it starts regenerating much better and has no problem holding constant speed. I imagine that it would start applying full regen if I choose it to do so in the settings, but it would come with regen kicking in when I release gas pedal, which I don't need at all.

Yes.

In case of PHEV that is correct. Battery is in the back and it weights a lot. I'm still struggling sometimes with front wheels slip when I apply throttle, especially on wet roads.

I had this issue for 4 days in a row every time I started the car. It was in the end of September, no issues since that 4 days period. Wow, what a great service! I wish my dealer could see a thing, so I hadn't to make pictures and try to convince them that I actually have something wrong...

I am happy with Blizzak LM005 which I bought at dealership, went on a winter road trip across Europe to the north and all was great both on rainy autobahns and roads covered in snow. Plus the price they asked was very good imo, and they are much more quiet than stock summer Goodyear.

If your trips are short and you can charge at home or at your daily destination point, PHEV is a no-brainer. Myself I drive on average about 20km per day and my savings on fuel are insane because I charge at night when prices are low. Driving only electric averages me about 3 eur per 100 km, while on petrol I'd spend 10 or above. On long distances consumption is still good despite higher weight of the car, last trip mine was around 6 liters again. But, if you have nowhere to charge it, don't go for it.

The whole time I own the car (1,5 years) is "recently" according to them I didn't extend online services this year because there isn't much use of them anyway. Servers are more down than they're up.

Today I left the car outside under the sun and +30. Reboots came back, even though since I got 1941 I thought they are over. So looks like regardless software, issue of overheating is still there. Yes, until it calms (cools?) down, it is in on-off loop, restarting, starting up while car is parked (playing music and draining 12V battery). So idk what to do... Great that I extended warranty, because new MIB costs 1500 + work, but how many times they are going to change it over and over again? Makes me tired... My theory is that MIB is fine but, indeed, communications module triggers it to restart or reboot. However, technicians in a workshop can't check it, they strictly follow repair guidelines which say to change MIB.

Yesterday I showed this to a reception guy in the workshop. Guess what his reaction was? He saw such thing for the first time and was asking me where did I get it

So... it took them 3 weeks to figure out what's up, though that wasn't the only problem I reported to them. Serviceman said he found no issues with brakes and no logs of such errors while connected to the car. What they found is that shock absorbers are completely gone on one side. That explains why I felt car became unstable and wobbly, but how the heck that could happen after the car made only 39000 km? On top of that, iV model requires different parts which are not in stock anywhere, as they said, and they ordered them from the factory, so god knows when they'll arrive. This car never cease to amaze me...

I had Front Assist intervened a few times because of pedestrians, but it always started slowing down gently or just beeping at me. Never it slammed brakes. IIRC, according to car's manual, on speeds above 30 km/h it shouldn't start braking before giving alarm. Manoeuvre brakes are other story, scared me a few times in my garage slamming brakes so hard as if someone hit me.

I'm not sure what you mean. If you are talking about range estimation car shows you on infotainment, these numbers have not much to do with reality anyway. The only thing you can trust is watching odometer and seeing how many kms you made between full charge and zero. I was surprised to learn that ICE cars are counting consumption and estimating range better than EVs do. If you were measuring how many kms you did, and now consistently you are able to drive less kms on full charge, giving the same route and behavior, then it is strange. But seeing how others tried to address similar problems to Skoda, I don't think there willll be any luck convincing them that something is wrong with the car, they always say that range may vary and it is ok. Myself, I've never experienced anything similar with my 3 years old iV.

No. Usable capacity is 10.5. It still can go about 70km in ideal conditions, but more realistically 50 to 60. I see nothing wrong with your range of 50km. If I drive only in my town (hills and lots of speed bumps) I can barely make 40km. Doesn't matter, car won't take more than 3,5kW.

Anyway holding on/off button for some 20 seconds will do the trick. I had similar issue after updating to 1941 at dealership, reboot helped.

This certificate from skoda-connect doesn't make any sense to me. It only has 3 records for repairs while I had already 7 cases open, 10+ trips to a workshop. Most of them are not reflected like if nothing happened.

Had it among many other problems, luckily it showed up right on the way to dealer. After fixing that they told me it was something about the settings of volume adjuster on the steering wheel and they had to recode it. Though I question competence of people on workshop's reception and won't take it without grain of salt.

Catch the moment when infotainment is on and switch privacy setting one step back towards maximum privacy. It may do the trick. Otherwise, in this case dealership was changing my MIB and twice it didn't help, it is kinda obvious that the problem lies in software, not the hardware. And of course it may have quite bad consequences as my radio was turning on and draining 12V battery completely during the night.

That was actually supplied with my car, just had to dig deeper in the trunk to find it. Worth checking.

Pull out fuse 19, lock the car for a few minutes, put it back.

I had already 4 OTAs since I'm on 1941, last one yesterday. 3 of them specifically mentioned that those were updates for applications and they won't affect SW version.

It loads faster and runs smoother. Some changes in battery management. Haven't noticed anything else.

It happens when I turn the steering wheel. But honestly, I only notice it in my garage, seeing how the wall in front of the car is becoming lit. While driving at night I don't see it making any difference though.

Since a few days ago I also have such errors occasionally when start the car, they disappear after a few seconds. But more than that, my care became wobbly. At first I thought that's my brain playing with me and I couldn't repeat the issue on purpose while maneuvering on different speeds, but today I noticed that when I park, if I apply a bit too much brakes, car stops abruptly and wobbling front to back. Stopped counting which trip to a workshop it will be, but reading what @123ashleyp23wrote, I hope it will be fixed relatively easily.

Putting to Park never applied parking brake in my car. Only switching ignition off puts both in Park and on parking brake. If the button below parking brake is activated, car holds brakes whenever it is stopped, but I think it is not parking brake though.