Edela

You say you tried 3 different workshops and spend some hundreds of euros... but were those official Skoda workshops? Cause the software for infotainment was updated long time ago and official workshops would do this for you, as well as would offer to swap comms module or infotainment itself. So far it sounds like you've been visiting some shady garages somewhere in Seraing and that's the result... Also I'd like to add that deactivating stations logos wasn't working in my case and only new software solved the issue in the end. Same 2020 car as yours.

If they are going to sell you new unit, it is 1500 plus work. I hope they won't be lazy and will find a way to restore yours.

With the right selector on the steering wheel you may select what is shown on your dashboard. Scroll through options on the right part till you see you phone there. From there you can hang up with the same button or select contacts with the options button.

Yes, you need H49 where this issue was solved. I assume you are talking about PHEV? If so, leaving it plugged won't save you from a flat 12V battery. It charges small battery while charging HV one, and as soon as HV battery is charged and charging is stopped, 12V gets nothing and easily discharges. Been there with the same issue, had to call Skoda Assist to jump start despite car being plugged.

Tbh I never understood what's the point in lane change. I'd rather do it myself.

Travel Assist keeps your car between lines and keeps distance to the car in front. It does not only kick in to correct your heading only when you are about to cross the line, it actually steers car, so basically driving becomes hands-free. As someone regularly doing long trips across Europe, I find this stuff to be very useful. 1000+km in one day and don't feel tired, only butt hurts a bit after sitting for long time.

I mean, it makes sense, isn't it? Could be more consistent on 1+2 roads, but overall I find it logical that it does not bling oncoming traffic on freeways.

Put any departure time in the middle of the day and off-peak time frame 00:00 - 05:00. That'll make it work, car going to start charging at midnight.

Also, at least in Spain, when car is immobilized and has to be towed to a workshop, things are resolved way better and faster. So might be useful to let it discharge once again and make your car towed.

You won't change the battery yourself, it must be coded. You need to ask your servicemen to install all necessary firmware updates to tackle drain, there were service campaigns for early Octavias. Software was bad, but it was fixed 3 years ago, so I don't understand why rant if it can be just updated and all be well. Particularly, 90V7 may solve your issue, but there may be others for your VIN. If they bull**** you saying you have to charge your battery, raise a complaint to importer and go to another service. After all updates are done, they must change battery on their expense, otherwise you'll get many new faults soon.

Your 12V battery is charged every time HV battery is charged and every time car recuperates energy while braking. So there's no need to charge it separately. The problem lies in parasitic drains and infotainment issues Octavia is known for, and before changing battery you'd need to check these first. There were service campaigns addressing battery drain issues, as well as infotainments and screens are being replaced under warranty for starting up in the middle of the night and draining battery.

When I was reading about "pop pop" issue I was thinking it is some alarm sound from speaker, or a sound similar to a static discharge there... How surprised I was when I was driving on a highway and someone knocked hard from within what felt like DSG selector area. I thought my selector is failing again! Really sounded like if I will knock the plastic with my knuckle. Then SOS error appeared. Then I was surprised again when discovered that it made navigation lose any idea of where I am. Comms module never recovered by itself so I unplugged its fuse and it made it lose all my driving data, which never happened before when I rebooted it that way 🤦‍♂️What a heck of a mess how everything is designed in this car...

As I wrote before, my issue appeared after changing 12V battery, on the third day after that. I always drive in e-mode, sometimes a month without starting ICE, but that is not relevant to the issue. After it was fixed I continue running e-mode only.

What you guys are talking about is not the problem which was discussed here originally. That car sometimes wants to run ICE is ok, but this is different behavior - it starts engine right at first launch, engine runs continuously for some time and does not allow to switch back to e-mode, no errors on dash. What we had (or at least I had) is that error pops up on the dash, and engine goes on and off intermittently. It allows to put it back to e-mode, but just to jump back to hybrid in a few seconds. That is clearly not ok and I am glad it was fixed in my case. Technician told me there were different 12V readings on 3 different gateways and that probably triggered the system to launch ICE thinking that 12V does not provide enough power.

I agree with mccririck. Factory fitted goodyears were the most noisy tires I ever got, despite having lower dB value than others. Basically tire noise and tire performance are always about combination of particular tires with particular car. Even the same tire models but in just a different size perform and sound differently on the same car model.

Tbh I think in 2024 we could have come to some standard in road construction. There are countries which manage to build brilliant roads which don't hold water and don't produce much noise. I see no reason why all surrounding countries would not adopt the same tech. Otherwise, no matter how much you spend on tires or sound deadening in the car, it is still the road what makes the difference.

In case if someone will be looking into such issue later, here's an update. Had this behavior for 6 days straight, then 2 days nothing. Then one more day and again nothing for a week. Today technician in a workshop was scratching his head watching my video, saying he had never seen anything like that before. Car diagnostic showed, as he said, errors in 3 different gateways triggered by power imbalance, as well as error with Type 2 charging socket controller. He did some flash updates for these gateways and initiated recalibration of electric motor. So far so good, hopefully problem won't come back. But the real reason is still unknown and why it appeared after replacement of 12V battery is also unknown.

Car was solid stable like on rails when I had what appeared to be half dead shock absorbers. After I changed all 4 to new, I have the same feeling that car is a bit bouncy, especially on high speeds. Many people say it is ok for Octavia, including workshop to which I complained. I'm still in doubts it is ok, since all the cars on this platform I drove before were driving very solidly, sticked to the road.

Can only speak about PHEV. When I first went on a parking covered in thick layer of slush, I could not get going after I stopped there. Good winter tires did not help. Very disappointing but also predictable, since even on dry surface car tends to spin tires when starts going...

@Rookie97, @vran22, I'm no expert here, though my dealer also insisted to swap infotainment when I had the same symptoms. It took them two infotainments to finally come to conclusion that it was faulty screen, not infotainment at all. Took them two years.

Had screen replaced to solve this issue (finally). Costly stuff without warranty, but very well known problem, so I'd expect Skoda to provide parts for free.

Long time passed. Would you mind to update us on how the problem was resolved? I just got new 12V battery on Friday, and on Sunday started having the same issue as you described. Engine starts every 20-30 seconds, runs only for 5-10 seconds, message appears that it needs to run longer.

The leak was in the heat exchanger in the HV cooling circuit. Frankly, I do not fully understand where it is and how it is connected to AC, though the same exchanger in ICE circuit is well visible when opening the hood. The guys on reception told me it is a bit of pia to change it, so cost of work was equal to cost of all the parts (around 1000 in total). Happy to have extended warranty.

Exactly. Got it back today, all fixed.

Since it is a well known problem, you should insist on Skoda covering the cost of the part.