Shuggyboatsuperb

Yes, I should have remembered : although I said above its a sealed unit, the indicator bulb is actually a changeable halogen bulb - but its a specific Philips 25w bulb with an odd base design, not a typical indicator bulb. Its a fiddly job to do though - how do I know? Well - - I like to carry a spare set of bulbs and when the car was new, difficult to find exactly what bulbs were used. So I took one out to find out. Problem then arose that the odd design on the bulb appeared to clip into the “bulb holder” ok but when pushing it back into the lens unit the bulb fell out of the holder into the light unit - I had it in 180 degrees out. took ages to fish it out from a big deep cavity with a bulb sized entrance hole - eventually with some sticky duct tape on the end of a thin cable tie to catch it. so yes in theory this front indicator bulb is replaceable- with a lot of care.

Mine is a 2020 SE estate with non Matrix LED headlight so probably same as yours: - they can be adjusted somewhat ( up/down at least and probably to the side) since my local MOT garage had to adjust one side down to pass its year 4 MOT. Sorry dont know which adjustment knobs do which adjustment. - LED headlights like this dont use one bulb, they use a bank of LEDs behind the reflectors and are sealed units. p.s. have you tried adjusting the aim up/down using the car menu settings - lights- headlight range? Any better? hope you get it fixed- keep us updated how you get on.

Great thread for “ideas”, this! Despite having a spare wheel in the skoda the info here has prompted me to buy a bargain rubber worm kit (of 2 tools, glue and 5 worms for under £4 on ebay). Can see it being used one day on either minor slow punctures or trailer tyre, or our other cars to avoid using spacesaver spares. Also Ootohere’d info on vulcanising- Redpath Wooler not too far away from us- handy to know - just in case.

This might help, (and my 2020 150 diesel takes the 5Q0127177 filter- different to BAP33,s)

Your best bet is to look for the part number painted on the outside of the fuel filter holder/ outer canister then trace / cross reference correct filter element to the canister. There will be a few different options fitted at the factory - not worth guessing which.

Oops - apologies. And assumed it may be switched off at the same time / same system.

It can definitely be turned off in the car settings menu ( I think under manoureing? But cant remember for now exactly which setting, sorry ) Absolutely a pain - Have to switch it off when reversing boat trailer ( when trailer electrical plug is removed) otherwise the car thinks its going to reverse into a stationary object and slams the brakes on every time the car and attached trailer move a few inches. Bugger of a job the first time I used this car for the task till I realised a bit later what was happening - 10 mins and only 10 feet further back! had to be done every time though, its not a permanent reset.

No funnel is supplied to fit past the anti syphon device in the fuel pipe ( unlike some Fords etc.) is yours petrol or diesel? might need to use something like a flexipipe that comes with a 5 litre spare fuel can - either the correct petrol or diesel version to fit - theyre different - and pour the additive in through that. some additive bottles have a long straight nozzle of the correct diameter to fit into the fuel pipe in the car ( look at Forte diesel additives for example) - but not many😳

Just jumping in on this, apologies: this is the marine grease I prefer for outboard engines and boat trailer hubs etc ( after trying many over the years). It doesnt harden with time like some do, and very resistant to washing off or emulsifying. Will use this when the time comes on the Skoda bushes: ( Quicksilver being the consumables brand from Mercury/Mariner): https://www.marinechandlery.com/products/mc-2-4-c-grease?variant=48267389993307&country=GB&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOorX6Q1P0HsUSziSSXj_NoxjZ8rn_uQE0T5OAcWqkgdWFle_mkiNhf8

Maybe not so cheap, but will do battery coding and electric handbrake service release/ reset as well as a load of fault code reading. Might pay for itself once used a couple of times? Mine has! https://m.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT530VAG.html

@MunsterScot “I reset the code and put some Forte Advanced Diesel Treatment and Forte Diesel Turbo Cleaner in the fuel and ran it for a while “ Above is a great tip - have used other Forte products many years ago and always good results. Just ordered the twin pack for £23.39 on ebay to use as preventative maintenance on my steadily driven diesel. (It usually gets filled with Esso supreme or Shell V power to try to help keep the internals clean but this Forte stuff can only help. )

Equally I could say : Bit of a dumb concept to buy a car with a known weakness such as many of the DSG gearboxes, could I not?

My SE diesel manual has ACC. Works well especially for steady driving ( as opposed to in traffic). Obviously, if for example following a lorry up a long incline and speed reduces significantly, you may need to change down a gear, but when ACC is set, this gear change is done without touching the throttle- the computer adjusts the revs nicely on depressing and releasing the clutch. Very smooth. Same when “over the hill” and you need to change up again. I dont do much town/ city driving in the Superb so any “benefits “ of DSG auto in stop/ start town driving arent useful to me. personally, I went for a manual because of the need to sometimes manoeuvre slowly and accurately in reverse with a ( boat) trailer attached, and I feel a manual box and my clutch foot give much better control. I also believe the manual box to be dependable and more reliable - even more so since joining this forum and seeing so many DSG auto tales of woe.

I agree totally with battery and wiper suggestions above: they are basically just (long term) consumables so why subsidise main dealer prices: For wipers I now buy Ebay. 10-15 pounds for set of 3! Original rear wash was poor ( till later on I opened up the jet slightly with a mini drill bit) and the rear wiper creaked from new. Mentioned at first service- no interest- fobbed off. After 18 months I bought a genuine replacement rear wiper from dealers at about £25. This one also creaked and skipped. when at the second service the report suggested I needed a new rear wiper I nearly flipped. Politely explained it was a nearly new one from their own parts shop and no way would I ever put another genuine Skoda blade on. The Ebay cheapo bought afterwards has never creaked or skipped. Try batterymegastore.uk or Taynabatteries for a new battery (Yuasa or Varta) delivered at less than half the dealer price - maybe even an improved AGM type for that, and get it coded locally for a minimal price ( and fitted locally if needed).

Yup, its the radar sensor, vital part of the ACC system. (Correct alignment of it has to be done with specific dealer equipment as far as I know )

Could mean something as simple as “brakes on”. Or held / locked in some way ?

36 inch x 3/4 inch breaker bar and 3/4 inch x24mm 12 point socket on hand should I ever need to do these bolts- then I need to find a stronger or heavier person or two !

Less than 22 k miles and 3 years old (= 3 winters) when replaced March 2023:

Both parts are needed- both the rubber with 4 “barbs” that pushes into the car as your part, then the hard plastic insert with “pin” that pushes and locks into this rubber to lock it into the car ( if available).

Currently showing as out of stock - but keep an eye out

My 2020 - same experience as Nicknorman - tried reversing boat trailer onto slipway ( electrics disconnected) soon after I bought the car and wasnt aware of all these “safety?” Systems. Bloody thing kept emergency braking every time I very slowly moved a couple of feet in reverse - it was suspecting I was about to hit this boat. honestly it took 20 minutes to manoeuvre about 40 feet backwards. same when doing 3 point turns on country lanes when it stops me reversing into the thigh-high long soft grass behind. I now know how to turn this “ feature” off.

Is this not the spray cleaner for the reversing camera fitted just above the registration / license plate - so is best left switched on?

Quoting @Macsamillion “It looks to be a torx screw in the middle of a nut?” the torx bit you can see is just cast into the inner part of the protruding “ bolt” so that if the nut is seized and starts to spin the bolt you can put a torx key in to hold the bolt steady while you undo the nut with a spanner (or straight through socket) with a bit penetrating oil on the nut and the fact theres not a lot of exposed dirty bolt thread, you might get away without holding it with a torx key or torx socket bit.

Theres a lot of info and advice in several threads: heres one you might find helpful. (Lots of good options outside of / less expense than a dealer) :

I doubt many dealers will have their own bodyshop these days - will contract it out. Likewise most insurance companies would direct you to a manufacturer approved repairer rather than a dealers workshop. try googling : skodaapprovedrepair.uk And see if theres any good ones near you.