Shuggyboatsuperb

Probably priming you to be ready to spend some money with them next year or year after. I would be tempted to go elsewhere ( not main dealer) next MOT and I would say odds on it wouldnt even get mentioned?

As per Numskulls thoughts- I would be arguing its due to the failure of a component ( rocker cover gasket ?) and the oil leak is merely the obvious symptom of the failure. And suggest youre right- the work proposed adds up equivalent to “a major component” of the vehicle? good luck.

I am sure you will get a thousand replies with differing opinions for wheels! I suggest 17 inch wheels with 215/55 tyres are a good compromise - as fitted to the SE model as standard. Those on mine were made by Ronal ( HQ in Switzerland) specifically for Skoda- both logos are cast into the rear of the wheel. (Not so long ago there were 4 of these with nearly new Uniroyal rainsport5 tyres on eBay for just over £800). I managed to find 2 a few years ago for about £80 each to use with winter tyres. New cost is about/ just over £200 each from dealers I believe. Part no. and size attached in case you want to follow up.

Something like this helps on the strengthened sill jacking points to protect the thick rubberised type coating when used with a trolley jack - (or loaned to garage to use with their post lifts at MOT time)

Dealer prices up: had mine in this morning for 4th year routine inspection, engine oil/ filter and pollen filter ( no MOT and declined aircon “decontamination”) - still came to a whopping ( thats the polite word) -£274. (and they would now charge £999 for cambelt and water pump on 2 litre tdi) by year 5 it will be out of extended warranty so preparing to do routine services at home: got Quantum 509/00 oil and all genuine parts including fuel and air filters in my garage now at an inflation busting and dealer-price -avoiding total of less than £100.

Well. Cracked it thanks for the suggestions - but a bit of a knack to it. -mistake I had made earlier was trying to turn the handbrake off after the door was open - it stays locked on, or comes on when the door is opened if autohold is lit. - need to turn the autohold off and/ or the handbrake off ( whichever are lit) BEFORE opening the drivers door. then they stay off when the door is opened and the brakes stay off. thanks again for the advice.

I will try that again tomorrow and report back. Thanks. Sure Ive tried that already - but maybe not. Guess you mean the “ auto hold” brake button to the left of the centre console rather than the handbrake?

One of my niggles is that I often need to park with the drivers ( right) side hard up against the kerb - by reversing in. On our other older cars its done by opening the door a few inches and looking down at the kerb for the last bit of fine adjustment. The Skoda wont allow me to move if the drivers door is opened/ajar. Brakes get locked on. Another unhelpful “safety feature” IMO in this situation. Rear view camera helps the start of the manoeuvre but no good for the final part.

Mine is also a 2020 SE and came with a USB port there as standard. (Handy for plugging a phone charging wire, while music memory stick in the front USB port)

So long as the tyre sizes are the same, ( example - 215/55 R17, yours may be different size) then its perfectly legal to have different brands or patterns of tyre across the same axle

Mine has CR2032

The point being “ codes checked and reset” should be “ codes checked and recorded/ noted down then reset”. What code numbers were recorded? Or, “ error came back the next time” - but what error code came back? You were asking earlier what made the light come on - the error codes will help in pinpointing why. No one can help by guessing.

Got mine from here a few years ago, along with a few other bits like original mudflaps: (Think they were a good bit cheaper pre B and C words 😥😷) https://www.kopacek.com/search/products/2?term=Carpet+mats+superb+3

“Rough road package” was an option in the UK as well only for some models- but not very common at all - 15mm higher plus several additional plastic underbody trays compared to standard.

Carlston: Thanks very much for your thoughts and experience. What youre saying makes a lot of sense and sure you will be right. TBH although I often carry a heavyish load, my standard rear shocks and springs are currently fine- the problem is at the front - but obviously may need to move to more “ balance up” front and rear if fitting Bilsteins to the front. So will likely go for the B6 alltrack version for the front and superb B6 on the rear. Will keep my eye out for any discounts (always hopeful!) and get a set put away for future fitting. thanks again. and hope it goes well for you Tonies.

Great info, thanks: Tonies and Carlston. Now hopefully to close this off from my perspective, for the FWD estate ( lighter than AWD) it seems the alternative B6 shocks in your post above Carlston, would appear suitable - i.e. those for the standard superb mk3 just so I have the info for replacing some time in future.

Thanks Carlston, As for the B6 on increased ride height cars- whats your thoughts or opinion, is the length suitable?

Tonies, I have the same doubts about going to B6 if the comfort on major dual carriageways/ motorway roads suffers. I am certain the diagnosis is that the OE front shocks compress too easily but rebound too slowly so cannot handle well against repetitive rough spots or dual small “ bumps” , one close after the other. My car has increased ride height and weight range 5 springs ( 2.0D FWD manual gearbox) and I think this weight range spring in this model shouldnt be too soft a spring. Simply, the OE dampers are too slow to re-extend on multiple slightly-rough areas of road. I would hope some replacement front shock brand will still be comfortable but respond more quickly on rebound, - but I would like to get it right the first time rather than experiment / risk everyday driving getting worse!

Wonder if these would work ? It suggests they will for “ increased height”, and KYB struts generally are good https://www.autodoc.co.uk/kyb/14359022 and https://www.autodoc.co.uk/kyb/14359027 Personally speaking with my car and the uses it is put to, I can live with the generally soft, comfort “boaty” suspension most of the time BUT on country lanes - typical Northumbrian /Scottish A class roads- even at moderate speeds, small road ripples or rough surfaces on bends tend to throw the front end off line ( with “jiggling/ rattling” feel ) and theres a particular spot just off a bend where a slight depression across the road leads the front end to compress/ load up - thats ok - but is then followed by a second depression 3 -4 metres further on where the front end bottoms out heavily on the bump stops. Feels like the shocks are still loaded up from the first “bump” and haven't recovered in time for the second depression. Im talking just shallow very smooth depressions in the road here and have tried different lines / angles of approach and dropping speed as low as 20 -25 mph, and get the same bottoming out. Our other cars ( admittedly models renowned for good handling) barely feel these depressions when cruising steadily in the same place at anything up to 40-45mph. Been like that since the Superb was new. Strange the back end damping and springing is fine and controlled even when heavily loaded up.

I’m following this thread with some interest; need the increased height/ rough road package on my estate but will be looking to improve the level of damping, at the front in particular, at some point in the future. ( still got a year of extended manufacturer warranty left and LT 30 k miles on the car so not in a hurry to change yet). Was hoping Bilstein B6 would fit.

In 2020 handbook it states “ about 13 litres” Mine usually gets topped up with 3.5 litres when it asks for 0.75 gallon or 5 litres when asking for 0.75 - 1.25 gallon, and either of those register.

Just searching for something similar a few days ago: In the karoq section of this forum theres a gearbox manual that also covers some other models- same gearboxes used- including various diesel engined Superbs 2015- The details are in there for filling with a special tool , or via a funnel/ tube through an alternative route- after removing specific bolt/ fittings along with the volumes required. (p.s. a manual covering some recent Superb engines, including likes of recent DSRA /B motors are in the Kodiac section.)

Hi Stonechip, not at all: Main and dipped beam are LED, daylights along the bottom of that unit are also LED ( white only). Then the little triangle section below for the indicator contains a separate orange bulb ( Philips PWY24W). At the rear its LED tail and brake with simple PY21W bulbs for the indicators.

My 2020 superb SE estate (factory build Jan 2020) has standard LED headlights - but interestingly, halogen indicator bulbs.

strseq, “am guessing it's the coil, Can a crack in the coil rubberboot do this?” yes, - if the crack in the coil rubber boot is in a position that allows the spark (or even the voltage feed to the coil) to earth out on the cylinder head instead of travelling down the spark plug and igniting the mixture - it would cause a misfire. And such misfires often occur only at certain engine revs / load combinations rather than constantly. Your mechanic’s insulating tape seem to confirm.