Aldfort

If it started again there should be new fault codes. As to induction leaks, ask the garage if they do a smoke test. If they don't then ask them how they find induction leaks.

Sounds like there might be a coding issue. Let's hope the dealer is good with coding. I still think it's worth checking the settings in the infotainment.

Couple of things: You know that to open you simply grasp the door handle rather than touch the sensor? Assuming you KESSY locked the car? You know that if you lock the car with the keyfob and then touch the locking sensor on the doorhandle the car stays locked and can only be unlocked with the keyfob? Your only infotainment menu choices are the unlocking behaviour, either all doors unlock or only driver door (and tailgate) unlock. The book helpfully does not tell you about the tailgate!

Nope, I just opened the App, apart from a software update nothing like you describe. My app was "asleep" on my phone as I don't really use it that much.

I'm going to chip in again despite the fact I said I would not. The data in the last post tells you everything you need to know. In general the data is showing you the slow decline of the battery, it's a shame you don't have the data going back to when the battery was brand new. You'd be able to graph out it's charge holding capacity from new which would give a clearer picture. BTW - what multi-meter do you have that can measure AMPS at that level?

The first thing I would do is get the AC checked to make sure there is enough refrigerant in the system. Modern AC refrigerants should have a UV dye in them so it's easy for a garage to check for leaks with a UV light source. Also in order to refill the system the garage needs to put it under vacuum, if they can't pull a vacuum then there is a leak. A "visual check" will be a waste of money, better to ask for a check and re-gas.

The speed limit recognition is not perfect. Over the years in our VAG cars we have seen: Improbable speed limits displayed (100mph) in an area where there were no signs at all (road was national speed limit.) Failure of the camera to correctly recognise a speed limit sign. Failure of the car to notice it was now on a motorway for anything up to a quarter mile. Incorrect speed limit displayed not corresponding to the signs. Overall I think the system is still pretty good.

What does the dealer say?

Maybe try some Vanish dry carpet cleaner? I'd test on an inconspicuous area first. Is the marking identical on both seats?

Try a little car upholstery shampoo.

@Johngerard What's the battery rated at, it'll say on the top or the side somewhere. Your data, while interesting, is meaningless without this number.

Ah, I never use the phone, always use the built in Nav. Maybe this is the root of the issue given that you said about not having a problem if just listening to radio.

Interesting, we had similar with our Mk8 Golf but in our case an OTA software update fixed it. This was about 18 months ago though. We use USB and memory stick all the time but we only use the Nav very occasionally. To be clear on the Nav thing, are you using the phone's Nav or the car Nav?

I'm out of this thread, Just for info you can, for about £45, buy a battery tester that tests every aspect of all types of battery. It'll detect cranking voltage, starter issues form excess current draw, will also determine charging voltage and ripple current as well as giving overall state of health reports.

This thread has, sadly, descended into a lot of whataboutery. There is some hugely uniformed opinion based on what folks did 20 plus years ago. I'm old enough to remember back 50 years to what we did to keep simple lead / acid batteries in good nick. But I'm also wise enough to understand that technology has moved on.

Nearly all modern engines will make use of a better grade of fuel automatically. They nearly all have sophisticated knock detection and will advance the ignition accordingly. The major reason for not using E10 is the water it absorbs if left in the tank for a longish time. Hence the constant advice to use E5 if you do low mileage. As an aside, never use E10 if you have petrol powered garden tools. It'll spell early death for them.

It's still under warrantee so take it back and stand your ground. Read up on the consumer rights act.

Your description of battery voltage climbing on engine start could indicate any number of things: The hot topic in this thread is worn out battery but it is not impossible that there is a higher than warranted current draw when the car is parked up, engine off. This could be due to something staying on when it should turn off. If the draw is high enough for long enough the batter will become noticeably discharged. You may recall in the old days we had ammeters in cars and a wise owner checked the ammeter settled to zero when the engine was turned off. Overvoltage warnings are nearly always about the voltage regulator failing to do it's job. There is a slim chance the electronics have got it wrong so measuring the voltage with a meter is sensible.

I'd buy the newest car you can find with the lowest miles. Your comparison is between apples and bananas. Also if you want a pokey estate look at the VW's as they have engines with a better state of tune. VRS is a nice car but from experience (we also have a golf R) how many days are you really going to use the extra performance?

Bit late to this thread but it is possible to slightly muck up cam timing without doing catastrophic damage to the engine. That said with all the short journeys it could just be the engine needs a good run on good fuel. Other possibility is that it needs a carbon clean assuming that injectors, coil packs and sparkplugs all ok.

...and as we now all know I am sure it's possible to hack all modern cars if you can gain access to the dealer database. So It's probably safer if they have less data on you rather than more.

I think the fault and the removal lies with the amount of government snooping. If the data was private then there would be no issue. The fact the Skoda UK could be compelled to provide the data to HMG and it agencies is probably what drove the decision.

Don't have it on my app.

Something similar happened on our Mk 8 Golf. It was cured by a software update but others report needing electronic modules needed replacing.

The OP has a basic speaker set up I think. It may be as little as 4 speakers