Aldfort

If there is a final "balloon" payment then generally, yes you can hand the car back and walk away or pay the balloon and the car is yours. There will be a deal on offer when the PCP comes to an end for sure. Until then just enjoy the car.

Anything can be retrofitted but the costs can soon spiral out of control. Rear camera is probably do-able. Park Assist uses radar which You probably don't have. Lane assist uses the camera behind the mirror, if you have traffic sign (speed limit) recognition then it might be possible to activate lane assist.

You need to differentiate between the action of the clutch and the pedal returning to it's "home position. If the clutch is working fine then the issue is likely in the clutch pedal or the master cylinder. AFAIK the master cylinder has a built in return spring. Possible this spring has cracked or has been mis-assembled.

The full electronic service history records the date, the mileage and the exact nature of the work carried out at each and every visit to a dealer. Thought you would have known that. I think your question is- does the service history part of the printout match the manufacturer recommendations.

Here is the whole answer: The Škoda Scala's TPMS (Tyre Pressure Monitoring System), also known as TPM+, uses data from the ABS wheel speed sensors to detect and alert the driver to a drop in tire pressure by monitoring changes in wheel radius, and some models also offer direct TPMS. Here's a more detailed explanation: Indirect TPMS (TPM+): The system uses the ABS wheel speed sensors to monitor the rotational speed of each wheel. It compares the speed of each wheel to determine if there's a change in the tire's radius, which can indicate a drop in pressure. If a tire pressure drop is detected, the system will alert the driver via a warning light on the dashboard. Direct TPMS (Some Models): Some Škoda Scala models may offer a direct TPMS system, which uses sensors mounted directly in the tires. These sensors measure the tire pressure and transmit the data to the car's computer. If a tire pressure drop is detected, the system will alert the driver via a warning light on the dashboard. Recalibration: Once the tire pressures are checked and corrected, the TPMS can be recalibrated through the infotainment system's options menu. Display: The display will indicate pressure for a single person occupancy in the car and also for a fully laden vehicle. If the car is using the ABS sensors I think all you get is a single warning and then you have to play find the tire yourself.

Wow, mine did 2 or 3 updates within a day of driving it off the forecourt. The SOS warning is a common issue on all VAG cars from 2020 to 2021. The fix is a combo of software and hardware replacement depending on the exact model. Ask if it's (a) ever been reported and (b) if so, has it been fixed? It'll be in the cars full digital service history so "don't know" is an unacceptable answer.

How do cobwebs get into and effect a sealed unit?

I think this is a good idea. I find my 18's give too firm a ride around where I live.

Try resetting the infotainment. (You should be able to do this with just the on /off button but this is what I do on all our VAG cars:) Turn it off using the on off button, ignition off, exit the car, lock the car, wait a little while. Then re-enter the car, ignition on , infotainment on.

Here is a further picture of what is in the car. Component 3 is the steering column inside the car. component 8 is the one also in the previous picture which connects the column to the steering rack. You should also check that the steering column adjustment for steering wheel position is locked tight. (see the owners manual).

There is one under the car:

OK, I turned the sound way up an I can hear a noise. Can I ask are you moving the wheel lock to lock with the car stood still? Have you looked at the steering column joints, it sounds like a bit like something catching on a joint.

might just be me but can't hear anything?

What infotainment do you have?

Before worrying about an update reboot your infotainment and see if that improves the connectivity.

A bit more on this, car (the Skoda) was at 10C in the garage yesterday. Reversed out to clean it. On starting the revs were increased to around 1300 rpm for maybe 20 seconds, then they dropped to around 1100 rpm for a further 20 seconds. After that they settled to idle at about 800 rpm. After cleaning re-started engine, idle revs at 800 rpm almost instantly. Went for a little dry-out drive and then put the (shiny!) car away.

What @Bigjohn says is pretty much spot on. Manufacturers are under pressure to conform to bureaucratic standards with little regard to the real world. So while I like the 50mpg on a run performance from the engine I have to live with little odd quirks like revving to 1400 rpm when cold and not quite understanding that torque demand on a fast A road is going to be very variable and that maybe not deploying ACT so quickly might be helpful to making smooth progress. (I'm still experimenting with this and I might start to use the flappy paddles and sport mode a bit more.)

For the Golf it is always less than one minute when the revs are increased. It only seems to do it from a fully cold start, so an hours shopping followed by an engine start and the revs settle to "idle" quickly. For the Kamiq, it's DSG so I have not really found it a problem as the reversing movement is controlled on the brake. I find I never need to touch the throttle pedal while doing this. The last manual Audi I had did this higher revs from a cold start thing, I would simply engage the clutch to get the car moving and then fully depress it to disengage so that I could manoeuvre safely. Often if I was just backing onto my driveway I'd knock it out of gear once it was rolling.

Skoda web site should have links to an accessory brochure, including one for wheels.

Replace the discs, (all four) and pads with something branded of good quality. I would not drive around with discs like that. A big hint from me, never put the car away directly after washing it and apply the handbrake, this can be the cause of this exact problem as the brake pad can get very stuck on the disc. I always take the car for a little "dry the brakes" drive after washing.

Yep, in a modern car the electronics which are "always on" (or at least on for ages after you turn off the ignition) have controls to try to protect the battery. These controls will progressively turn off electrical systems in the car so that you have the best chance of starting the engine.

If you look around other VAG related forums for other brands then you'll see this is quite common. (not to say it's "right" but it is possible in this case the dealer is right and "they all do that" is the right answer.) the 1.5 engine with ACT is certainly a very different beast from my last 2.0 without ACT. We also have a Mk 8 golf R and it exhibits this odd revving the engine when first started, sometimes more than once if manoeuvring at low speed. There are various theories advanced as to why it happens, all the way from coping with the aircon kicking in to making sure the Petrol Particulate Filter does not get contaminated. I am struggling to understand why the extra 400-600 rpm is making things difficult. If the car is a manual then dip the clutch fully, better than slipping it while manoeuvring. If it's DSG then use the footbrake to control the movement. I reverse my car out of the garage and hardly ever have to touch the throttle to complete the manoeuvre. Last car, and the one before (that's about 12 years worth) were exactly the same. Before then, yes, you had to balance the throttle or you stalled the engine.

It might be that the car is still registered to another account. The dealer is supposed to take care of this. Also, AFAIK, Skoda dealers are supposed to assist with the set-up of the Skoda App and the set-up of the primary user.

Not just Skoda, nearly all modern cars do this on startup.

It is possible that the dealer can do the required software update. The problem, as most customers of VAG group have found in recent years is a marked reluctance on the part of dealers to do this sort of work. If you want to do anything yourself (OTA) you need both keys AFAIK. You have tried the obvious I take it? Switch on ignition, turn off the infortainment, go for a little drive, turn on the infotainment and let it do a full re-boot. Wait until all infotainment systems fully working before parking the car and turning off. (Yes, you may have to re-do some of the settings after you do this.)