pikpilot

I can confirm that the Bolera does not have bluetooth as standard. Retrofitting it can be expensive. The Aux socket is "in" only, and passes the in signals to the speakers when you select Aux on the Bolero. Putting a bluetooth adapter on the Aux input (available on the back of the Bolero if you don't have it on the central console) is only the same as adding a cable and will only pass audio to the speakers and not act as a remote microphone for your phone. Also check that Aux is on your Bolero menu.

Can you describe what this function does. Is front parking sensors? or self parking? or ??

I have the same engine and my VW group garage uses Quantum 5W-30 (VW 507).

Could be worn brushes in the starter motor? or the solenoid not moving far enough to engage the starter contacts? or worn contacts? Changing the starter motor and solenoid may be the quick solution.

If you suspect the switch on the drivers side door panel then you can use another way to tell the window to open or close. Press and hold the door lock switch on the centre console. Doors lock to raise all the windows and doors open to lower all the windows. You can also do the same using the key in the door handle - turn and hold the key. Your assumption of a trapped wire may be correct but before removing the door card to look, check for a broken wires in the rubber snake between the body and the door. There is no master switch or relay as the commands are electronic.

Coincidently, I was watching a car programme on TV today with exactly your problem - revs rising on idle etc. The cause was an air leak on the engine side of the MAF. Specifically, a worn/broken seal to the MAF. The extra air that bypassed the MAF was causing the ecu to try to correct the problem by adjusting the fuelling and this raised the revs. Worth checking.

If you don't have VCDS then you can use Carista. I used this to change mine from 3 blinks to 5.

I don't fully understand your question but I can tell you that when car is stationary and not in gear, the ecu will not allow you to overrev the engine. The rev limiter could be 2500 rpm on your engine.

Not yet as I am enjoying the new found power! I keep a log of fuel connsumption so I will check after a few more fill ups. I can't say about instantaneous as currently I am taking short trips, often not reaching full coolant temperature until near the end. I will report back soon.

Yes, that was the done. The new injectors are supplied with an individual code on the top. These codes were entered into the ECU.

Dont forget that the glow plug warning light is also used as a master indicator that there is a major fault code stored. So the glow plug light can come on when the glow plugs are OK. On earlier Mk 1 cars such as my son's Audi, the light came on for a failed breaklight bulb! The 1.6TDI 105 CR has a history. If one injector fails, the others fail soon after. I chose to change all mine after one failed and one had poor test readings. After changing all four the car seemed a little sluggish initially but now, 2000+ miles later, The performance is the best ever. Perhaps the ECU adapts to the new injectors?

Removing it may require you to drill out the fastening rivit. Just pull out the plug and tie the cable back in a safe position.

Skoda recommend changing the alarm every seven years. I suspect yours has a leak from the internal alkaine battery on the printed circuit board causing corrosion on the board. When you disconnected the main battery overnight, the damaged internal battery was not able to power the alarm but as soon as you reconnected the alarm unit, it would see a change and set off the alarm sounder. I think you hold the record for alarm life at 14 years. Take a look at the sticky post on alarms at the start of this forum.

Led replacement fixes a common problem of some leds not working. There is a how to do it guides with photos in a couple of threads on this forum. It is not a fix for the wrong leds being shown. Except that taking the display out of the car for a while will dry it out.

More likely that the battery has died a death and won't accept a charge. Its Capacity will also be very low.

After 12 years since the last post it is probably worth describing your fault in detail as most readers will be new.

The fuel light is correct as you need more fuel. The random display of dim icons which change when you switch on other correct icons such as the turn signals is exactly what I had until I dried out the car interior.

I looked at the warning lights section in my car handbook and your icon is not included. I do have a different icon for brake failure / low brake fluid so perhaps your icon means that. Another possibilty is that your icon is a "spare" that is only used in certain markets. When a car has been standing for a while in wet/high humidity conditions you can find any of the icons being randomly displayed until the car has dried out. I suggest you use the car for a few days with the heater on high to see if the icon goes away. If you have a Climatronic system then make sure you switch on the aircon compressor as well as setting high heat as this will reduce the humidity more quickly.

1. The idle speed of 1000 rpm is normal if the battery is being recharged - especially if you are also feeding heavy loads such as a window heater(s) and lights. It will return to the normal 700 rpm when the battery reaches normal float voltage. Not related to coolant temperature. 2. The "clever" software that drives the coolant temperature guage reads 90C over a wide acceptable coolant temperature range both cooler and hotter than actual temperature. On both points what you described is normal and you don't have a problem. Points 1 and 2 have been a feature of VAG cars for over 20 years but it still catches out newcomers. Were the two temperature sensors you changed in the cabin? If so they are associated with Climatronic cabin heating.

Have you tried the second key fob? I had the same problen on a different make of car. The fault was due to broken solder joint in the fob after being dropped.

Can you lock and unlock the doors with the switch on the central console with the ignition on?

That is normal on short slow runs and cold days on this efficient diesel. If you set the heater outlet to the central dash vents, you get warmish air before the tenperature gauge needle climbs off the stop.

It is just condensation. I don't think it is necessarly in the dash.

It is normal if the battery capacity is low. Cold temperatures also affect this. In winter if you have the screen heater, lights and other large loads on then the 1100 rpm idle is used to ensure there is still positive charge going into the battery when the engine is idling. Reverts to 700 rpm when the battery is near fully recharged - about 15 minutes on cold days and/or if the car has not been used for a while.

Here is a posting with details. Yours will have two switches missing. No need to click on the Workshop link inside the posting as the full post is better.