pikpilot

The first thing I would do is check the battery is good by substitution The next thing I would do is check phyically and with a multimeter that the connections from the battery are being made. This means +12V and return (0V) are made at each point from the battery to the point of use. Check for corrosion at joints, for broken and corroded wires including the insulation over wires near connections. Investigate any wires that show black rather than copper coloured inside. Check for open fuses at the battery distribution fusebox and then downstream fuses, particularly at the relays used for distribution and relief contacts. If you are not happy with electrical fault finding then an auto electrician would not charge too much. My guess is that you have failing connection caused by an intermittent damaged wire or corrosion.

Does the temp gauge read 90C ? If an airlock, then you can check by seeing if both pipes to the heater matrix are hot. You can see the pipes going through the bulkhead around the centre of the car. The two pipes are the only ones close together. Diesels take longer to warm up the coolant than petrol cars.

Have you reset the gear linkage to take up any wear in cables? It is a simple job described in the Haynes manual and in many YouTube videos such as this

Yes is it very easy. You just need to apply a good car polish. I use Armour All Shield and it lasts over three years between applications. I believe it is now even available in Halfords. Very good in hot climates such as California. Used on the car body, it produces a finish that is very shiny and dirt just washes away next time it rains.

Do you get door open icons on the dash? With your after market system you may not. If you see icons on the dash when you open the boot, bonnet rear side doors and front passenger door but not for the drivers door, I would suspect the drivers door control unit or, much more likely, a broken wire in the wire harness that runs in the flexible hose from the door aperture to the drivers door. Pull the hose from the body and check the wires inside.

It will go back to normal when dry. They extra lit icons on the dash varied, depending on the indicator stalk and other controls.

As I found out, this problem happens if there has been condensation in the car. If you have climatronics then make sure it is set to auto so it can control the humidity. If you don't have it, then open the windows on a warm dry day to dry it out.

What do you mean by boarding lights? Not a term I have come across on VAG cars. Do you mean the light at the bottom of the door card? or the downlight in the door mirror? Interior lights come on when getting in the car?

I have recently acquired this problem. I watched as a ladybird landed on my side of the driver side window. I wound the glass down to remove it but it remained on the glass and disappeared into the door. I then wound the glass up again but the glass now squeaked but no sign of the ladybird. It still squeaks in dry weather but not after rain. My guess is that the ladybird is stuck on the glass or mechanism lower down and the carapase (hard covers over the wings) are causing the squeaking where they touch the moving glass. I hope within a few weeks the ladybird will be no more. I am also looking for a long thin strip of hard plastic that I can slide into the gap beside the glass to wiggle around to free this and any other obstruction.

You or previous owner were lucky that the wire from the battery did not cause a fire. I doubt that the ECU has failed. More likely the unfused cable had been bundled with other cables (such as in the A pillar) and caused further damage to those cables. A "new" ecu may have to be programmed with any options that you had such as beeps on door locking/unlocking or rear wiper active when in reverse gear and it is raining. Either way I suggest you go to an auto electrician with a good reputation. To answer your question, that can be done by Skoda or an auto electrician with the right equipment.

1.6L CAYC engine is notorious for injector failure. It was injector 1 that failed first on mine (usually the first to go) and the garage also changed injector 2 it was not showing good signs. There are enough people who have said that once an injector fails on this engine, the others will fail soon afterwards. I had the other two injectors changed by a VAG specialist garage at a lower cost within a month before they could fail. My car might be considered an old car but it suits my needs perfectly so I have chosen to keep the car maintained rather than buy a newer model with high depreciation. When my first injector failed the car could be restarted normally but it soon failed again. This engine was the subject of a "dieselgate" improvement. It was optional but dealers followed the VAG line by saying it was a mandatory recall. It wasn't. It consisted of a software change plus an "air straightener" in the hose after the air filter. If you have this added part it is a sign that the service action (as they called it) has been carried out. This service action can cause other parts to fail - especially the EGR valve and, say some people, injectors. Compensation was paid to owners who claimed but the scheme has now closed.

It is confusing when you say key. Do you men the key blade that you put in the door handle or the buttons on the remote? If you use the actual key blade in the door handle and it works then it is not a car problem. Please confirm you have tried this. It looks like two of the remote buttons work (boot open and all lock) but not the unlock button. If so it a failure in the remote key. This can happen if the remote has been dropped onto a hard surface or the contacts are corroded (such as being dropped in liquids, coca cola etc.) Spare keys can be bought on line but will need to be coded to your car. Alternatively, Skoda will sell you a new fully coded remote key (based on your VIN number and proof of ownership) for a couple of hundred pounds.

First thing to do is determine if the fault is in the car or the remote. Have you tried the second key? Can you lock and unlock the car using the lock switch by the gear lever/12V socket whilst sitting in the car? [Before trying this it might be wise to leave a window open]. Can you lock and unlock using the key in the driver's door lock?

For the benefit of members who find this thread in the future, can you say how you fixed it please.

Glad you found it. It is the wire that supplies power to the top group of fuses as we suspected.

Here is a post from another current thread. This is exactly the type of fault I was referring to in my posts above. Update: Issue was investigated by Medlicott Motors (CW12 1NJ, Congleton) and eventually found some evidence of copper oxidisation on contacts inside the engine compartment fuse box. Cleaned up and put back together. So far the error has not repeated so this may be the root cause. 👏😃

The function of each fuse location varies between models and years. However your handbook will tell you what each fuse is protecting. If you don't have a handbook then you can download it from the sticky thread above the current threads. The fact that you have no power in a cluster of fuses at the top suggests that all of these are supplied through a larger fuse or relay elsewhere. Please post here the functions assigned to the circled fuses as a guide to find the source. [If you want to try my guess first after looking at a generic wiring diagram, it is that relay 1 has failed on the fuse panel under the bonnet. It supplies power to what is called Terminal 15 (a supply point for many of the fuses in the cabin fusebox).]

Purely as a guess, if similar logical thought has been used as on the door windows then you need to close the hatch with the switch or remote and keep holding the button down for a few seconds after it closes. Immediately repeat the process for the raise button and again hold for a few seconds. This process will teach the logic of the stop positions If that does not work then look at friction in all parts as maximum load is when the hatch is just before horizontal.

These symptoms are typical of low volts from the battery. I know you said you had tried another battery without success but was that a known good battery and fully charged? Low voltage is also caused by poor supply or earth wiring. For example corroded cables, corrosion of the connection at the main fuse box (the one in the engine bay) or earthing points. That says to me that you have a loss of power at the fuse/connections soon after the battery. So the first thing to do is use a voltmeter to measure the volts at the battery initially, at the battery while cranking (if it will) and then at various points around the car such as at each fuse box. If ok then follow through to the other side of the fuses to find dead fuses. In particular look at the vertical fuses in the engine bay. It needs a logical systematic approach so that we can conjecture on the cause of the problem based on further evidence. My guess so far is that it a failing battery or corrosion on the main fuse box printed circuit board or connections. One final point on safety. A battery contains a lot of energy. If you are not happy about using a voltmeter etc on something that can cause a fire, then ask a competent electrician.

No, the heat is taken from the coolant by a heat exchanger. I agree that the likely cause is oil in the heater matrix but don't rule out a failure of a flap servo in the heater unit. Search for climatronic (if you have it) test. This is done by pressing several of the buttons on the panel to initiate a full test and reset of the unit. It should also report a failed part as a code number. The buttons to press vary between models and years. Have you tried manually changing the settings? air distribution? temperature setting? recirculation etc? This may pick up a failed function.

The glow plug is not needed when the engine is warm so the fault code is not shown. A likely cause is the cable to glow plug 4. Check with a voltmeter that the supply is getting to that glow plug and to one of the others when someone else turns on the ignition only, for the first time when cold. The reason for checking against a known good plug is that at this time of year the glow plugs are often not required and will not be energised.

It all depends...... As a guide, my dpf is 43% ash after 76,000 miles.

As you quoted mileage in kms I assume your not in Staffordshire. Specifications vary from country to country. As you wanted an estate (which was my choice too) make sure you get one with a flat floor in the back. In the UK this was standard in the Elegance trim level but optional on some others and in other countries. Folding the rear seats and then unclipping and removing the rear back rests gives almost six feet of load length, most of which is level with the bottom of the boot aperture. Personally I would not entertain any petrol car with a 1.8 or 2.0 TSI engine - see sticky thread above. For the diesels there is a choice of engine depending on age. Certain 2 litre diesel plus the 1.6 litre diesel were the subject of the "dieselgate" scandal. New engine control software (plus an air straightener on the 1.6) was found to reduce reliability. The fix was said to be mandatory when in fact it was optional. I resisted the pressure to have mine fixed. Some owners had the software reversed but the majority did not. Many sold their cars and same waited a few years until VW paid out compensation. The biggest reliability issue was failure of the EGR valve. Some people had it replaced several times under warranty/goodwill. The EGR is not expensive but its location requires many labour hours to replace so a big bill. I suggest you spend time reading past threads in this forum. If you find a car you like, then note the engine code on the sticker in or near the spare wheel well. Armed with the code, do a targeted search of past threads.

I suggest this is not the place unless you have the soldering skills to connect to the copper tracks. A better place might be to connect to the 12V cigarette type connector, if you have one, in the boot. You could connect to the rear of the socket (brown wire is -ve) and hide the tracker behind the boot trim. Make sure you have a 1A fuse in the wire between the socket and the tracker as this is a 30A supply that would otherwise destroy (cable melt/fire) the tracker if there was a fault. One advantage is that this is always live so you can track the car with the ignition off. But it is essential to disconnect the battery before making any changes as the supply is always live.

For the benefit of future readers, where exactly did you squirt the WD40, internally through a hole? just on the visible mechanism? or somewhere else?