GreenMachine1.6

Flexing or rattling the shield can dislodge them. Or reversing fast and braking hard can work I am told. My first one was removed by a garage for £50!

Could be a stone trapped between the brake disk and the shield,

We tow a 4 berth van with a plated loaded max weight of 1150Kg with a 1.6 DSG diesel with no problems, but it is a lightweight van. As KenONeill says you will need to check your rated max towing weight, mine is 1800Kg. There is a lot of discussion online and Skoda websites as to whether it is necessary to upgrade the cooling system. I confess I never got to the bottom of the issue and have never had issues but then again I have a lightweight van.

Are you quoting a Skoda main agent price? Have you googled "radar re-calibration" or similar there are many independents . https://www.vw-retrofit.co.uk/product/front-radar-calibration-service/ for example. I took an interest following a deer hit on my non radar car in preparation😕

The manual for my MY2019 gives the following. Hope this helps and is relevant. Driving abroad When driving in countries with opposing traffic system (traffic on the left/right), headlights may dazzle oncoming traffic. Therefore, the LEDFront headlight setting must be adapted by turning on travel mode in infotainment in the  /  →  → Light menu. In this mode, there is no automatic adjustment of the light beam in front of the vehicle.

I had exactly the same as dodnkeytrouser with a MkII, a miniscule hole caused by rust. Passed vacuum tests and would work for a year or two then then start to fail and needed a regassing. Eventually the hole grew and found with a dye test .

I have had 3 wheel bearings replaced on my mk2 over a number of years. Not wishing to question your mechanical ability, on one occasion I was assured by a reputable garage who checked the car out that it was not a wheel bearing. After eliminating other possible causes I had the bearing replaced anyway. Solved the problem.

I have had a rubbing noise on a couple of occasions from a stone jammed between the brake disc and the shield. First time it happened the garage charged £50 to dismantle the brakes as they were mystified as to the cause. Later learnt they can be jogged out by reversing fast and slamming the brakes on! There are forum posts on the subject.

Are they suggesting an A/C service or A/C cleanse? If I remember correctly at my first service on a 2019 car I was offered an A/C cleanse (I think this is an antibacterial smoke bomb in the cabin, I stand to be corrected) cost £60, I turned it down. I have just had a service at the end of the 3 year warranty that did not include an A/C service. The service history was then checked before I, and they, signed up for an extended 2 year warranty. I confess I am not sure how often an A/C service is required/necessary.

I get a buzz/rattle from the center air vents shown in your picture. I adjust the vents with the wheels until the buzz goes. The noise always returns, wish I could find a permanent fix!

Skoda appears to be an accredited member of The Motor Ombudsman scheme. If things get sticky it may be worth try. I had a battle over a faulty cruise control on a 2007 Octavia still in warranty, they knew, and I knew, it was a known fault but got the "the computer says there isn't a recorded fault". Persistent overly polite questioning meant they didn't want me in the showroom. They replaced it.

If you are saying the wires go from the airbag in the side of the seat directly (without going through another connector) to the connector under the carpet in front of the seat, then your wiring arrangement is different to mine. Unfortunately I cannot offer any further suggestions. Good luck in fixing the problem.

I suggest you locate the leads coming from the airbag in the side of the seat and follow them down to the connector. I did this as a double check before cutting the wires.

Just noticed you are from Kirkenes, an interesting place, did the tourist bit, snow mobile, huskies, ice hotel etc a few years ago!

On my car there were two yellow connectors. One at the front of the seat in the floor under the carpet, my garage cut this out and soldered it. It did not solve the problem. The solution for me was to solder the connector tucked under the seat, If I remember correctly it does not hang down but is attached to the seat frame making it difficult to see. Removing the seat from the rails and tilting takes no more than five minutes.

On my car there was a yellow connector underneath the driver's seat roughly in the middle. I removed the 4 bolts holding the seat down and tilted it backwards, this made it much easier to access the connector and make soldered connections. I cannot see how you can access the connector without removing the bolts and tilting the seat. Note my seat was an electric memory seat with associated wiring. To double check you have the correct connector you can follow the cables from the the airbag in the side of the seat to the connector under the seat. I believe some have simply used a cable tie to hold the two ends of the connector firmly together. I thought as I had accessed the connector I might as well do a proper job and solder the wires together.

Short answer, no. I lived with this problem for quite a few years and even had the airbag replaced which included a new connector. Finally got fed up and did the cut and solder, solved it, no problems for the last few years. Seems a few other car brands had the same problem besides VAG.

Had a similar experience with a deer driving through Thetford forest (yes i was on the road!), £2000 pound repair bill. Nothing remarkable, except I was stopped on a fast country road in the dark checking the car and the injured deer and thinking where are the police when you need them, when out of nowhere a police motorcyclist appears!

Interesting, mine is booked in for it's first MOT and it will get a "warranty audit" as well as a free valet.

In a 1.6 DSG TDI, 2 passengers, 280 miles on the A1 and trying to maintain 70 to 75 mph, trip computer says 63 mpg. Same trip towing a 1150 Kg caravan @ 60 mph, 34 mpg.

I also agree, gauge on my Aldi electric pump is totally useless. I use an electronic gauge. Plenty of reputable reviews on line to help you choose one. Also found garage/supermarket gauges can sometimes be inaccurate and you may be checking a warm tyre.

Before spending money I would charge the battery up and see it that helps.

Suggest you check the battery is in good condition.

Broken springs can be difficult to spot, I've had four. On level ground check the height wheel to wheel arch both sides, are they the same? Most including mine, but not all, break close to the bottom of the spring.

So went to main agent, who openly discussed silicate tea bags and casting sand but we agreed my issue was "probably" not linked to those issues. He then consulted a couple of techs who said "they are all like that". I then challenged him to pick a used car at random and check the header tank, sure enough it had some film on the inside of the tank. I think they genuinely do not know what it is. I have got the header tank (and electric tailgate struts) on the job sheet for the MOT prior to the warranty ending. So is it normal and does anyone else have a very fine orangey red film that easily comes off onto your finger in their header tank? Now wondering about taking up the extended warranty!