GreenMachine1.6

Sorry not sure if you are referring to the ACC or airbag issue. Google VW airbag warning light loads of posts, it's a couple of years since I looked. The majority of problems are the yellow 3 wire connector under the driver's seat. It has a spring loaded connection so can momentarily break the connection ( triggering the airbag warning light) when the seat is moved stretching the cables or if the connector is in some way jolted or disturbed. Initial fix, not always successful, was a replacement longer cable. Simplest fix is cut out the connector and solder wires. Take precautions to avoid airbag deployment. US "Lemon laws offer remedies that exceed the scope of a vehicle manufacturer's warranty" see wikipedia.

I have also had this issue, always worked after switching ignition off and on again. Raised it with dealer at last service no stored codes and did reluctantly say they had heard "some stories" about the issue but couldn't offer a solution. Sounds a bit like the fiasco of the MKII airbag warning light issue, I got fobbed off for years whilst the American VW forums were full of comments and solutions. Due to their "lemon laws" they were getting free repairs years after the cars were out of warranty.

Check for rust/corrosion underneath. There is a recent post on here where the rear suspension arms completely failed. I have a 2007 1.9 PD which received an advisory on the MOT this year but is only minor surface rust not corrosion.

If it is out of warranty I would use an independant. Mine was 2 years old 13k miles and dealer was trying hard to "up sell" A/C cleanse, injector cleanse, pollen filter and screen wash additive. OK pollen filter is a 2 year recommended but at 13K really?

I swapped to 16" from 18s for the very same reason. Suffolk back roads are not great for potholes and provide little opportunity to push the limits on handling

My 2007 had a leak in a lower bottom corner of the A/C radiator (condenser) in the engine bay due to corrosion. A very very slow leak that grew over 2 to 3 years.

Spoke to garage. Fuel cleanse is an additive used to clean the injectors to ensure the spray pattern is good. For 40 years I've been advised never to put additives in the tank, is there something new?

Car going in for first service on variable service so 2 years old. Got quote over the phone which seemed a bit high, email confirmation shows a £40 charge for a CARRY OUT DIESEL FUEL AND AIR CLEANSE. Air cleanse I understand (and don't need) but what is the fuel cleanse?

It's a good battery by all accounts, might be worth checking it's been coded in correctly if you don't who and why they changed it.

My garage could not regas my MKII because it had a very slow leak and it is now illegal to regas a leaking (no matter how slow) system. Is it possible the garage did not give you a full explanation?

CTEK

Good point, I should have written "....due to corrosion/lack of grease on the ball joint"

Had this on a MKII estate at about 8 years. Particularly a problem when parking uphill. Had a problem with noise, traced to the ball joint on the tailgate unscrewing due to corrosion/lack of grease.

You could do what I did many times with an airbag light and leave it until the next MOT and ask the tester to clear it. Mine charged a few quid as he was already dealing with the car. I had a problem with the infamous airbag connector under the driver's seat. Skoda claimed they did not know what caused the problem ??????! but assured me the bag would deploy in a crash.

I had this problem on a 2007. I have posted on this subject on this forum as have others, check them out. You cannot check the plugs, they are spring loaded and cause an intermittent fault. I will bet you will find the problem is the driver's seat, yellow 3 wire connector underneath the seat roughly in the middle. You may find you can cancel light and it never comes back. It is an MOT failure. If it does keep coming back I cut the plug and socket out and soldered the wires. You should take precautions to avoid airbag deployment if you decide to go the DIY route.

I had a selection of lights come on after disconnecting the battery. They all went off after a short drive. You may need to reset the windows and pano roof, see manual for details.

Like you I have also have had an occasional problem. Found switching the engine off and on again clears it. (Why does this 30 year old advice still work?) I am interested in the cause and a permanent solution. Car is due a service in March and still in warranty, will I get a proper answer or fobbed off?

Out of the box thought. Keep it as a second car for short journeys, no DPF, supermarket trolley dings who cares, fill the back for tip runs, slide on the ice into whatever who cares. Third party only insurance. I also find BMW and Audi drivers give way in a 50/50 situation when merging in queues etc :-) Meanwhile nice new Superb for long runs and kept in peak condition, assuming diesel, lower risk of DPF issues.

Heat, blowtorch-carefully Also try tightening it a fraction before attempting removal.

If mechanic hasn't already checked, and given what he has already done he should have, get the springs looked at. I have a 2007 and it has had 3 replacement springs over the past 12 years. It's not always easy to spot broken springs.

If you struggle to find the code for Skoda, as I did, try searching for an Audi/VW code. Seems most of the wheel colours are identical across the VAG group but there are a lot more posts and forums for Audi/VW which may help you work out the colour code you need. Worked for me, also discovered my code, 8Z8 brilliant silver, is used by Porsche.

Small claims court? Probably better chance than a bet on the 2:30 at Cheltenham given the photos and a statement from the repairing garage and the possible reputational damage to the business that sold you the car. Still a bet and a lot of aggro.

The manual gives instructions on how to reset the open and closed positions after disconnecting the battery. I had a problem with closing the sun blind. When closing after leaving it open for weeks it bounced back from the fully closed by about 30cm. Disconnected battery and reset this has solved my problem.

I find this interesting as I have had an advisory for rust on my 2007. Local village garage I have used for years (decades). They were surprised to find it but assure me that the car is roadworthy and may last another couple of years. It does look as if it is surface only and trust the garage to monitor it at the annual MOT. The car has done 170K so may be heading for the great breakers yard in the sky.

My rattle was a piece of broken suspension spring rattling around in the lower suspension arm.