PetrolDave

Reading many posts on here over the last couple of years about these updates it appears to me that after a major update it's advisable to do a reset to factory settings and go through the pain of restoring your preferences etc. I have a theory that the updates that cause this sort of problem use a different format of the internal database used to save settings etc. - this is something I saw often when I was still working as a firmware designer. I could be wrong, just sharing my thoughts and observations...

I had a similar problem a few years ago which I traced to moulding flashes on the gears connecting the motor to the flap. Some careful filing to remove them solved the sticking/jamming problem.

The language of this forum is English, so you need to post in English. Here's what Google Translate makes of your post: Hi everyone, I'd like some advice if possible, even though I have a VW and not a Skoda. However, I've read that many of you know a lot about how software works. I'd like to install this version of the software, mst2_eu_vw_zr_p0480t, on my 2017 Golf 7.5 with MIB2. I now have the mst2_eu_vw_zr_p0363t version installed. I've already installed the toolbox on the car and I also have the 480t software ready to be installed. My infotainment is: MIB2 3Q0035864B (with 2 SD cards). Can I do this update? If so, how should I proceed? Thank you all for what you do, and I hope you can help me too. Best regards, everyone.

So that's an Amundsen system, but could be a MIB1 or a MIB2 - I'm not sure how to tell which but I know a man who does @pab567

2015 is tricky, early one have a MIB1 version but later ones have a MIB2 version. Do you know what month yours was built? Do you have sat nav? If you do does an SD card have to be inserted for maps to work?

The screen is just that, a screen, so there is no coding or modification needed IF you buy the exact same part number. You don't say what infotainment you have or what year your Octavia is, there may be other screens that will work but without knowing what you have it's not possible to advise further.

I had some cheap LED interior bulbs from Halfrauds but they either stayed slightly on or flickered when on, so I replaced them more expensive ones from Kopacek which are brighter, whiter and problem free.

An "electronic" resistor???

There isn't a resistor, the lower speeds are achieved by the HVAC controller sending a PWM signal to the motor rather than a continuous 12V.

You need to change the value in the correct Leuchte adaptation channels to tell the bulb monitoring that you have LEDs not Halogen bulbs. Not sure about the situation in Slovakia, but the non-projector headlamps are not approved for LED bulbs, so that might be a legal problem for you (it certainly would be in the UK).

...or out of adjustment?

I think we need to also take account of the negative effects on the economy of banning ICE sooner than many owners can make the change to EV (both for financial and practical reasons such as no driveway parking). It's a trade off between damaging the economy and creating hardships due to financial reasons, or damaging the climate and creating hardships due to health reasons - neither are particularly attractive options, which is why I agree with @Graham Butcher that the timescale of the ICE ban needs to be continually monitored and possibly pushed back.

A good friend tows a large caravan with his Volvo XC40 EV (now renamed EX40 by Volvo) and doesn't have too many problems charging - but does comment on how few places have chargers that can be used without unhitching the caravan.

But who wants to support Elon Musk? - not me nor many other people!!! My son-in-law used to have a Tesla as a company car, when he first got it several years ago people commented how lovely it was but last month someone walking past said to him"shame about the car" in a negative way! Elon Musk has done more to damage the reputation of Tesla than almost any other person, possible not including "the orange one"?

So long as the spec is suitable, my fiance and I are planning to tow a caravan so we will need an EV with a towbar - from my small amount of research so far they seem very rare as a pre-registered car?

???

Bouncing suggests a problem with the dampers and/or their mountings/security to me.

It seems to me that before every Budget there are "official" leaks to test the reaction to proposals being discussed, at least that's what "official sources" (said with a nod and a wink) by political reporters from the major media outlets suggest.

VAG, including Skoda, has a long history of shark fin GPS antennas letting in water (I can remember problems with the Audi A6 back in 2005) so I would definitely not rule out hardware problems.

So on a hot day in a hot climate when climbing a long hill will the BMS reduce the discharge rate and hence reduce the available power to the motors - potentially making it not possible to maintain the same speed up the hill? Will there be any warning to the driver that he is about to lose (or has lost) some power?

Clear as in colourless or clear as in not cloudy? Coolant should not be colourless (like water) but the correct coloured coolant as specified by Skoda.

I never experienced it with my previous 1.4, and if my memory serves me correctly it's only been posted about on here with the 1.5ACT version of the EA211 engine.

Which will mean less time in the warmup phase for ICE, and hence could lead to lower emission figures without any actual change to the engine mechanics or fuelling strategy - so will make ICE appear better during the test without any effect on the real world figures!

The ACC system takes account of the steering angle so if on the motorway you are changing lane and the system thinks you could be heading for the bridge abutments it will warn and brake.

Depending on where the 12V battery is, you have to fool the car into thinking all doors, boot and bonnet are closed then lock it and wait for the car to properly go to sleep - usually this means waiting 15 - 30 minutes. Using a DVOM you measure the voltage drop across fuses in turn (a wiring diagram helps) to see if any have a "large" voltage drop. The infotainment display usually gives a reason for stop/start not working, if this is something like "consumer drain" then this is worth doing, if not then it will probably be a waste of time.